maxxdamigz

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm, do you have oil in your intake? Is it possible to pressurize the oil pan and essentially pump oil through any vent lines? I had a friend who screwed up an engine and was pumping tons of oil into his catch can under boost. Of course, this was a very different setup on a very different engine. It sounds like a lot of oil though.

evilmiata

If you've driven 20 miles so far, all the oil should have burned off. Droplets of oil on the bumper is BAD. Is there a forum for rear-mount turbos? Your answer may be there.

I don't know how important this is, but what is the flow rate of your pump and the diameter of your return line? I had flow problems with aquariums and discovered that pipe diameter has a HUGE effect on pump flow rates. Ex: one of my pumps has a 3/4" outlet, but I discovered that hooking it up to pipe less than 1.5" diameter had a dramatic effect on how much water I could move. Your oil pump may be battling huge head pressures; sounds like its good enough to handle oil flow at idle, but is probably getting overwhelmed when the turbo demands more lubricant. Also, every little bend increases head pressure, so I would keep your return lines as straight as possible.

Considering the oil restrictors that people are putting on the Greddy kits, your turbo may be getting flooded and the oil pump can't keep up.

One more note: Porsche used 30mm fittings for their oil lines (air-cooled motors). I don't know what the inside diameter of the hose is, but 30mm is over an inch!!!

ANOTHER EDIT: my return line is a AN10 (5/8" inside diameter) and only 14 inches long.

MadDog

Considering the oil on the bumper, it sounds like you're spraying oil on the outside of the turbo where it then burns off.

rotorocks

Mad Dog, you are absolutely correct.
When I got home from work, I left the car running for a couple of minutes to let the turbo cool off. when I came back to turn it off I found that the car is smoking like it is on fire while idling. i shut it down, and looked under and there war a puddle of oil under the turbo. so I let it cool off and begun to disassemble the oil lines from the turbo to the pump.
some portions of the line were made of copper, but some are just a silicone hose wrapped with heat insulating tape. I looked at it closely and realised that the insulation is soaked with oil. I took some pics of what I found, when I unwrapped the insulation tape. the hose was completely cooked. I mean 75% of it was a melted hole. the only thing that held it all together was the insulation tape.
Basically the pump did a very good job. It produces so much suction that it managed to keep the oil from completely draining out on me while running but sucking on it really hard. Off course none of that suction was applied to the turbo as it was flooded with oil.
Unbelievable!!!

here is what I did:

I built a receptacle container sitting right below the turbo, which has enough capacity to hold about 2X the amount of oil that the bearing contains.
since it is positioned directly below the oil drain, the oil flows into it without any obstructions.
the pump is outlet is on the side of the container, with a piece of hose going down into the lowest part of it. It is basically designed to allow the pump to suck from the bottom. Given no incoming flow. the pump should be able to completely empty it.
now the pump is connected to the container through a 1/2" ID silicone hose, which is thick enough not to collapse when hot. (tried that) Now there should be plenty of flow there too, I also made sure to keep the hoses as far from the turbo, and other hot parts as possible, so heat should no longer be an issue (Hopefully).

Well tomorrow I got another 20 miles to work, and 20 miles back. Let's see if it will hold up.

Thanks everyone for support.

rotorocks

No it isn't. Just thick walls.
I noticed that it has somewhat flattened. while the pump is on. Still flowing OK, and thanks god No oil and no smoke. During Lunch, I'll probably go and pick up some 1/2" oil resistant hose.

rotarygod

I'd definitely change to a reinforced rubber oil line.

evilmiata

^^^Yup. Think about SS braided line, too. Its expensive, but will last forever.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Actually, flurosilicone is the best.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL

I've been using the same 8" piece of this stuff since January of '05 and it is still clean and supple with no cracks and no stiffening, despite the fact that it passes within 1" of the manifold with no added insulation.

rotorocks

SS braided Line is hard to bend, and I have limited space under back there. I could bend and route it route it, but it then puts too much tension on the pump nipple (Plastic) and may break it off.

Also the thing is too loud when the turbo is not spooled up.
Maybe it is not too loud from the outside, but after driving for a while it is beginning to annoy me. This is why I never wanted the aftermarket exhaust before. I don't like when it is too loud. I have a couple of cherry bombs, so if I cut them in, will it muffle the sound? The damn noise kills in me any desire to step on the throttle. I feel like every cop is staring at me as I drive by.
...Or is it something, I'll just get used to?

romycha1

Where would you put the cherry bombs? before or after the turbo?

rotorocks

After off course.
I doubt the turbo will spin much if I put them before, although who knopws?
I have herd quite a bit that it won't make boost where it is now either, But it does. Not sure how much boost it can make, as I never turned it up yet, but it does...

romycha1

The only reason I asked "before or after", is since the turbo is where the factory muffler sits, I didn't think there was much room left to add (even a small one) cherry bomb.

But.. correct me if I'm wrong.. aren't there a few people here running a straight-thru muffler as a resonator?

rotorocks

I have no clue.
Is it going to make it quieter?

I'd have to actually PUT them in. Meaning take down the system, chop off pipes and the mounts, attache the cherries and weld the mounts onto them, I guess.

Tonight at home I will take a look at how much available space I have there, what would need to be cut out and redone and how much effort it would be to do something like that.

romycha1

Now that I think of it.. running a cherry bomb before the turbo would cause too much turbulance in air-flow...

But IIRC there was someone or some people that was using a straight-thru muffler as a resonator to quiet things down a little. I just can't remember who...

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I take it you still have the stock cat + resonator in place ?

rotorocks

Yes. Why do you ask?

BaronVonBigmeat

What happens when a catalytic convertor dies, doesn't it spit out little bits of trash or something? If so, then what happens to the turbo?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Then I don't think there is much you can do before the turbo & it surprises me that it is so loud as turbos normally do a lot of noise reduction in themselves.
Not enough obviously .........

matt1069

Hey roto i am doing the same thing but i have a universal kit from STS but i havnt quite started yet because im attending classes and havnt gotten around to getting any intake piping or decided what to do for exhuast, if you can, can you show some pics of how your intake pipe is routed from your throttle body clear to the turbo, by the way for all you 4AT guys im doing it on my 4AT

rotorocks

Unless it spits really big objects or chunks of metal that can not go through the housing, I doubt it can damage the turbo much.
On the other hand, the turbo I run can easily be replaced (Not rebuilt) from ebay for about $180 - 200 so if it gets damaged, it is the least of my worries. My oil pump costs more than the turbo (thank got it is OK)


You know, I am thinking more about it, the first day, I run it it was not so loud. the last couple of days I noticed that it gets very loud as the the temp rises. I figured that maybe because of the heat, the coupler I have that connects the turbo and the exhaust expands, and begins to leak the exhaust, thus making more noise ( i noticed the it stopped making boost above 6K. It is not too loud when the turbo is spooling well, but if there is not enough pressure, that is a whole another story... I guess the spooling turbo kills the exhaust flow and quiets it down. Tonight I retightened all the joints between the exhaust pipe and the turbo.


there are a bunch of pics a few pages back that show my intercooler, and how it is routed.
It is very straightforward.
Routing pipes under the car is another story. the 8 sits very low, so there is not much clearance there. I run my pipe all the way to the back (passenger side) door. From there a 45 angle takes the pipe directly to the turbo compressor.

With a 2.5" tubes, to allow for more clearance I had to flatten the last piece (about 3 feet long) flat down to about 1" high, so now instead of round shape it is oval. However, if you can run smaller diameter tube ( 2" ) you should still be OK. flattening the pipe some will help with the clearance.

I did make some pics, but everything i do is still work in progress. I do something, then take a ride to work (20 miles street and highway) to test it out, if something is faulting, I make adjustments...

Like today on my way to work I found that suddenly the turbo stopped making boost. I can hear it spin, but notorque, and the BOV stopped hissing whe I switch gears. so I got to work and looked under, and found that my pipe came off the turbo. The rubber coupler I use there became too slippery because of all the oil, that was flying around yesterday. I had to take it off, clean it dry and reinstall it.

Also I couldnt fit the air filter into the instalation the way it was sow on the picture, so I fabricated a crappy version of my own filter made from a plastic ciliner with holes driled in it and wrapped it with foam filter material.

That did not work too well, as it could not flow enough air, and made my "work of art" filter collapse, thus bloking the air at higer RPM.

as a remedy to that, I found a way to squeese the real filter into the assembly, but to do that I had to cut a piece of the aluminum heat screen off.

I also rereplaced the "old" silicone oil drain hose with a good rubber one to be safe.

rotorocks

Update:

Oil line works great.

Turbo builds boost like it is not even funny. Now I got another problem to deal with: it keeps blowing the coupler that connects the turbo to the intercooler pipe. Just today I had to replace it 3 times. It is becoming quite annoying. I know, i need to get a good braided silicone coupler that is specifically designed for turbo applications, but I just can't find the time to pick one up at a specialty store.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

You need to bead the pipes.

rotorocks

no, the problem is not slipping couplers. I had cut the pipes so close, that it simply can't slip off. there is not enough room. The problem is that it blows it. I mean it is amazing what happens to the 1/4" thick wall rubber coupler.
I don't know why. Probably because in order to maintain 7psi on the TB (where I take the measure), the pressure at the turbo outlet is 10# or more, or just because the Home Depot rubber couplers are simply ****