Moon Assad

Yeh, we installed them in Cams car. As far as we can see its a way better option then going with an after market rad because it pulls your temps down, way down. We havent done any really hot weather testing yet over 95 but im sure there a winner. The only thing we need to do is maybe add stone deflectors. Another cool thing is there stackable, if you need to cool more you just add another pair. So-far lets say on a 95 degree day were seeing 175- 180 max, last year I rember seeing 210 on a day like that.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

and it cools down even faster if it get to 190! Heck now a days since its cooler (65-85) once the thermostat opens fully at 180F, while on the hwy i see temps 155 to 160 both coolant and oil. Before I was seeing about 175-180.
it drops fast too. One of the best mods we have ever done. Good job Moon
olddragger

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

Wait I didnt think anyone had a hand on these yet are they on the market or are you talking about your own setup Denny???

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

I drove the car to work today after installing the heat shield material around the blower and here is what I noticed. My IAT after the blower stayed very low while driving and remained low after meth injection. I was driving at 85 mph, ambient temp 86, AC on, engine temp 183, oil temp 223 and IAT at 110. But when I downshifted and the meth came on the IAT went down to 83 and it took over 10 minutes to reach 110 again all that while cruising at 85 mph and AC on. Basically, the heat shield material does work as long as there is airflow. BTW, I got to smack a nicely mod G35. Not once but four times before the driver realized that I drive a “not so conventional RX8”. The look on his face…Priceless!

Moon Assad

That is nice to hear. Blow them away, not torbonate your motor, LOL.

Moon Assad

Hmm, good for a bumpersticker, time to step up, lol. Still gotta rember this guy though, he had more then words could say. It was hard to keep from laughing my *** of fseeing the face of the guy behind me,

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Yea!!!!
Juan why the heck are your temps so high? Oil at 223?
are you measuring directly from the pan or something? Coolant at 180F? on interstate at 85mph and ambients in mid 80"s, a/c on my coolant is 155-160 and same with oil(i measure from filter)
my iat's are like yours--shielding does work
i am starting to work on a custom fit shield that doesnt touch the intake but does stay close to it.
i just took the vdi vacuum activator off (switch still intact) and it is amazing how much room you have around there afterward.
SHould see what I did with that dangf ugly black alternator arm mount--now it purty--all polished and drilled.Ahhhhh
OD

mysql

^ your coolant should never be at 160 if the vehicle is warmed up.

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

My oil engine temp sensor is located in the Greddy oil pan.

My engine runs hotter because I run MSD ignition coils and NGK 10.5 leading 11.5 trailing.

Driving back from work today ambient temp 76, AIT was 109 at 85 mph AC off. Downshift to 5th meth on (but spraying windshield washer fluid cuz I ran out of meth and Rote8 was kind enough to stop by the airport and drop some winshield washer fluid) and up to 140 mph, AIT 84.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

why shouldnt the temp be at 160? That is not a problem.
Well my idler pulley bearing just started squeaking. i know they are pretty universal, but until i can get one IS IT OK TO DRIVE THE CARE WITHOUT THE S.C. BELT ON IT? If i remember correctly someone told me you could.
Await expert word on this. Quick response if you please.
OD

mysql

160 is too cool. Why not drive the crap out of the car when you start it up in the morning? You want everything warmed up. Mazda sets up the vehicle to operate in the 190-200 F range. The issue is that once the car starts to get over 210 F, it can be difficult to bring the temps back down. So we overdo it and cool down the vehicle further so that there is more leg room.

My car usually sits in the 183-185 F range and I'm wondering if I should increase the temp that the fan kicks in since it's barely warm enough. I have underdrive pulleys and the mazmart water pump. I don't think I've seen above 190 F since installing them.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I respectfully disagree--one main reason Cars are set up to run that hot is emissions.
That is not an issue with me. I know of of endurance racers with just as tight of clearances as we have that try to keep their cars at 150F or so.
The 155-160 for me is during very light and constant cruising--interstate--70mph
i have a 180F thermostat and just as soon as i start to drive the car a little temps go to that about that range 170-180.
Can anyone answer my question about running the car without the sc belt on?
OD

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

I was wondering the same thing I was even thinking of picking up an AP so I could have the Petit flash, and the RB Street flash and lastest OEM flash if I ever had to run without the belt... anyone else have ideas on this???

mysql

Maybe you're right. I saw on the aviation forums they like the engine to run in the 160 F range. But I don't know if their needs are the same as ours. I've only read that for engine efficiency sake that it's desirable for the engine to be closer to 190 F. If that efficiency is for emissions alone, then I'm right with you on that.

Moon Assad

Ive run withought the belt, you shouldnt have any problems. Tell us how it runs OD, im curios, The SC is still gona spin but the buypass valve makes up for that. As for your 160 temps, thats AWSOME but if you see it any cooler you might want to kink one off your cooler lines for the time being just incase we see anymore hot days this year.

morkusyambo

Yes, you can run without the belt. I have done it in the past for many thousands of miles. I have the AP as well as the EFI Dude, so I just popped in a NA map, but the EFI Dude map should still work.

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

You mean the Petit map? I have the Dude now and its just a data logger right? or can you load a map onto it....

morkusyambo

It also has a flashing capability. Some purchased theirs with it allready installed, and others like me did it in parts.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

you also can run her without the belt on and no reflash--just dont drive her hard.so if something does go wrong or even if you break the belt---no problem
its a weak *** car but does drive ok. takes off ok--pulls the a/c ok etc
if the idler pulley ever squeaks on ya --check its alignment
olddragger

morkusyambo

Hey guys. I created my own map with the access tuner race software. I'm currently on my 5th version. Wish me luck!!

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

Good luck make sure to give us all your details, additional mods, temps, and dyno runs..

morkusyambo

Funny.

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

I heard a rumor (from Cam at Seven Stock) that there are at least 3 more owners on the forum that don't show up on our owners list. If you will post or PM me your information I'll get you on the list.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

number of engines blown , etc etc .......

morkusyambo

I haven't blown anything up yet. My motor has @90k, 20k of which have been boosted. I've used 4 different engine management systems(including our OE computer) on my SC kit w/ tunes from so rich you couldn't breathe to so lean I've had to back out of the throttle because of detonation.

I am now on the 7th version of my own personal map. After 3 hours of work the first night I had a map that idles better than maps I have received from supposed experts, not to mention STFT and LTFT were dead on accurate.

Either tuning is easier than the "experts" would have you believe, or I am just really lucky I haven't smoked my **** yet.

On second thought, I must be lucky.