Rote8

Um, that is bad.
If it is two years old and not dirty, you have a leak or it is not working for some reason.

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

hey all,, ,
Looking at some data from this week...
Does this AFR look right to you guys, it looks a little 'spikey' to me near the rpm climb.
Edit - some more they seem somewhat consistant

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Well, without any scaled axes on that graph, how are we supposed to read it?

Rote8

Those number thingees in the center?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Really? Are you serious?
So we are supposed to guess what the spikes are based on the values at the cross hair?

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

Ill pull it up on the spikes... give me a min
edit here are the spikes first reads @ 14.3, second reads @ 12.29 AFR

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The first spike is at part-throttle, so it probably doesn't matter.
The second is just slightly lean. The rest is a bit too rich, unless you have really high charge temps.
Since you don't have load or manifold pressure (TPS is useless), its hard to say.
AFRs should get progressively richer as load increases.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

does have a little bit of a hiccup there?
You know with my luck---today installed the Y coils--afterward the OD CAR had a skip under any kind of load---so wtf? right. So here I go--checking connections, checking plugs,
(by the way no more bar plugs for me--a set of the oems with less than 700miles on them were in the engine--in checking them i just moved the grounding bar ever so gently and the dang thing STAPPED RIGHT OFF--like a dried twig---seriously--no more for me!!!)---
checking it all. After a few hrs , it only skipped under a load so i had to road test all fix's, Guess what? ONE OF MY BRAND NEW COILS WAS BAD@$%&**&$^)_)))!!!
It was in the rear leading. SO I swapped out a trailing for it and all is good until i can get another NEW coil.
Go figure.
Was working in the dang rain too--just under a little pop up.

Dann--that filter was a little over one yr old--the stuff on the blue shop towel was oily feeling and you can see how thick it is.
The ONLY way to visualize the filter is to to cut it out. Convinces me to go to an external.
Olddragger

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

I can post load, is the MAF reading in g/sec the same as Manifold pressure, I thought our MAF reading was air flow?
What would manifold pressure inform us of???

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

That stoich spike is just at the onset of positive manifold pressure. Its a hole in your tune. Contact whoever did your engine tuning.
The second spike is a transition point. That can be handled in tuning as well, but its not a significant hiccup - other than the point that it is at a kind of "dangerous" RPM.

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the help Jeff...

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

my efi lines are not as smooth as the ones you posted--more jagged(fine tremor like)----maybe I need a grounding kit?
OD

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

that spike under full throttle at 6500 is the aux. ports opening - not an issue unless you go over 9psi at that point . Dont ask me how I know this .

You will also notice that the point of the spike shifts closer to the 6250 opening point the higher the gear you are in .

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Brettus, I thought our ports were remapped to be oepn earlier, dont know where that got put in my head but maybe thats not the case...

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

I took my RMagic ground kit off when I did the install, Im gonna go back and re-route it, I measured the resistance before and after its install and it went from 41ohms to 8ohms. Thats a pretty big difference on resistance.

morkusyambo

Not that i'm agreeing with what i'm about to type, but i'm pretty sure Pettit recommends completely removing that valves vacuum line and capping it so that it never opens.

-Yambo

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

the aux ports are opened by the dc motor - not vacuum .

If you open them all the time the motor runs poorly at low rpm but better up top . If you dont open them at all you lose a lot past the 6250 point .

If they can be controlled via a flash to open earlier that is the perfect solution .....

But like i said earlier - I don't think the SC guys have a problem here because you wont be pushing a lot of boost at that point

marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

Just talked to Cam Pettit regarding secondary injectors. I recommend giving him a call if you are looking to upgrade to a different set of secondary injectors. He should have some in stock next week.

Rote8

Sweet.

Rote8

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

well no yukon'/ls2 coils for me. I thought all was well--found one bad coil etc. but today after driving approx 1/2 mile a dead dead skip with any kind of load--any kind except free rev. on free rev --no problem. cranks well.
trouble shooting reveals nothing that i can tell---plugs/wires, routing of the new matched connectors( i soldered them)--all good.
hell it is the same as the mazsport was doing, when it went bad--it was running well with the oem's when i parked it to swap over.
I dont have a clue what is happening---maybe the dwell is wrong?
anyone else have this kind of problem? Probably not.
OD

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

What Cam should do is package them with a smaller pulley(and flash) and a coil upgrade,,,
I dont think anyone of us would pass that up!!!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Check the ESS to make sure it is clean ( and the trigger wheel too)...and try spacing it further away from the trigger wheel with a couple of .5mm washers and see if that helps

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

have not tried the spacing--thats smart---but all is clean and dry. No one else has had to do that? It is very frustrating.
why under a load? Unless there is a short somewhere? Nothing heard while under the hood and the wife wouldnt ride under there while I drove. No help there
So Hell---tired of trouble shooting this. Its back to stock for me---for now---havent got there yet--hope it runs Ok then--it was before.
OD

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I had to do it to mine......

FI seems to make it more cranky?? Don't know why...did it with both my stock coils and my Mazsport coils