marsredr100

iTrader: (1)

This time I was running an Exotic Speed single resonator and hi-flo cat combo pipe. Also, my meth check valve was leaking and it was taken off, no race fuel added to compensate for the crappy 10% ethanol Florida gas and the temps inside the dyno shop was 20 degrees higher that the last time (330 rwhp). Overall, very happy with my car Pettit Racing SC performance. Again, sat in my garage for over a week, got up yesterday morning cranked it, filled with gas, drove an hour to Delirium (pissed some car owners on I-4), put the car on the dyno, out from Delirium to work, headed home (pissed more car owners on I-4) and is now parked until next week or so. Life is very good.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Rote8 --you running the larger pulley?
OD

Rote8

My bad,

Um, weekend before last, I helped Bastage with his blower drive belt.
My car did the very same thing last weekend at Delerium.

Everyone, the "knurled nut" on the idler pulley bolt needs a lock nut too.
Mine had lock tight and still the knurled nut turned when I thought I had tightened it, I was making 5-9 PSI (bouncing) due to belt slippage.
Yes, I checked the belt the day before.
The knurled nut can slip somehow, and then it just turns on the adjuster bolt.
Mine now has fresh lock tight under the knurled nut, AND a lock nut under the knurled nut.

Boost is up to 12-13, and steady...
Clearing the ROOM again now, then it is chicken dance time.

Rote8

Oh, yeah......

Larger pulley, blue injectors on the secondary ports.


I don't even have the methanol installed right now, I am waiting on braided stainless hose to run from the pump (in the trunk) to the dual injectors, it should arrive about when the MSD coils arrive.

Rote8

My latest MAF logs.
It helps to have the blower belt tight!
No Methanol kit is even installed yet.

At least I can laugh at myself.

zenrx8

iTrader: (4)

Ditto that. I did away with the knurled nut and installed two hex nuts with a lock washer between them to lock the tension adjuster, then tighten the bearing nut. My knurled nut was backing off when running.

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

hmmm I wonder if that was the noise Ive started hearing a while ago,,, everything was tight but I'll have to investigate this more,,,

Rote8

Rotr8, check your MAF reading, if it is down, tighten the S/C belt.
A dyno chart with a slipping belt will be "bumpy" at higher rpms. I also suspect a slipping belt can cause higher long term trims.

My MAF reading was helped by the cool weather, but 353.5 is still really good for no methanol. (or nitromethane)

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

ditto on the kurled nut throw a way. Score that long bolt so the replaced nuts do not move when you tighten it up. I never use that bolt to tighten the belt anyway--only to help hold it in place. use a pry bar to tighten the belt up. if you use that bolt it will pull the pulley just a tad sideways and at some point the belt will squeal or the bearing in the pulley will start to make noise.
nice maf and nice engine temp--hope your oil was warm!!
olddragger

Rote8

Oh, yeah, it had been running for about 15 minutes before I did the log.
It was about 50 degrees down here when I did that pull, and the killer thing is, that wasn't over 8K rpm.

Moon Assad

Im seeing that it seems like the nut needs updating. Other then that I think ive told everyone on here that there is an update for the tensioner, if you have the billet one made from steel you have the update. If you have a bolt that has threads for the adjuster, you need to update. Other then a better nut, does anyone have any ideas on making this a better setup? Another thing to check if your seeing slippage if the allen bolt isnt torqued enough. If your belt is tight as hell and you still have a problem hit that allen with a impact, dont over do it.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Moon ---guess I need the update one? Because I had used the bolt to tighten the tension once the idle pulley bearing went bad due to a slight misalignment and I replaced that. From that point onward I used a pry bar to adjust tension--since then no probs. I threw that damn kurl nut in the woods somewhere and use a double nut setup and score the threads to insure they dont turn/loosen.
Wish we could get an auto adjusted idler--you know the kind with the spring in it--that way it wound be low tension for regular driving but once rpm's climb she would tighten up some?

By the way i am doing a sweet little sleeper cold air supply to the airfilter area(not a true cai). Involves cutting the area within the front mazda symbol then making and installing a S shaped tube(3 ") to the frame cutout in front of the airfilter. The airfilter area does warm up a little and can use a little airflow.
Also THIS w/e I am going after the mustang moroso S.C. a/w aluminum 3.5 qy size tank up at Summit racing. Sweet looking and a large fuel cell type top so ice can be inserted if you want--also has a filter in it. Once I am done with all that--should take me an hr or 2 then pic will be coming.
yall will see my little filter installed on the oil filler cap, the tank and the ca supply.
Juan---eat your heart out!!
After that I need to look at suspension issues
Presently running the koni yellows with Tein H springs and the RB bars and endlinks. I have found out on track that this setup doesnt cut it anymore. The springs are too soft (front not even 300 and rear not even 200). I cant get the car to come out of the turn like I want because there is too much front in lift/understeer. BUT--i have to be careful because not enough weight transfer will cause my tail to get a little happy. I dont want shock settings to compinsate for weak springs. Once you change one thing you need to change another---soo i will be looking at true coilovers. I need to corner weight a little better anyway. Suggestions? Most rx8s around here are using the TEIN flex system but they dont have the power I do. The KW varient 3 is a little pricey for me and requires too much adjusting. I would like to have progressive springs in the rear--looking at the enduratechs? Or bilsteins? I would like to keep the RB bars. Want are yall running?
olddragger

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

like this!! Someone stole my idea!!
Anyone coming to the Mitty at Road Atlanta next month?
http://www.leg-sport.com/cgi-bin/dia...02185902_1.JPG
olddragger

Moon Assad

Let me clarify, if the tensioner looks like its a billit settup and not a bolt that has been tapped. If it looks like this, you have the updated one. Id just recommend replacing the copper nut.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

cool i have the good one then.
txs
OD

Rote8

I have seen that picture somewhere.....

Rote8

My exhaust was nasty:
It is shiny now....

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

did ya polish it or dip it???

Rote8

NeverDull is a tin can of chemically treated cotton.
You hand rub the chrome with this stuff and the crud just wipes right off.

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

do you have any staining I polished mine out but there is still some yelowing in some areas...

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

english shine stuff is the best--cant remember the real name for it. other than that use Zex.
never dull is ok you will just work your butt off getting it right. course my tips are 5 yrs old and get so hot on the track that my exhaust guards have melted!
OD

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

English Custom Polish

Rote8

I did not say it was easy on me.

Rote8

Sweet, I got almost 3/4 of a turn on it.
Mine was looser than my High School sweet heart.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

damn you had a better time in high school than i did

what allen bolt yall taking about ---on the blower front drive--i assume?
OD