Brettus

iTrader: (2)

heh - my thoughts as well . Damn it !!!!

Rote8

Yeah, Front pulley bolt on the blower, and I think that was my mystery long term trims.
I guess my ECU was in "Sybil mode"; I has boost, less boost, I has boost, no boost etc.

I can see how a slipping belt or pulley will make high boost, low boost and drive the ECU insane trying to keep up.
I will see if my trims build again.

Need methanol now, I do not like where my A/F was heading.
Light foot till next weekend's new methanol hose.
Pretty hoses:

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Dude nice load number--i can only hit 160 at 8.5 K My A/f's in that range is in the low to mid 11"s but my timing is different. I am at 20 degrees --i see you are at 17. ??????

Christmas came early i now have the moroso air water coolant tank ---sure is nice--- 3.5 qt capacity with fuel cell type lid and nice threaded brass plumbing fixtures. It will require a little fabrication to fit but it will not be a big prob---Moon and Cam ya'll ought to include this in the kit Man-- for approx $175 it sure "upgrades" the install. Looks so much better than that very functional plastic bottle. Seriously.
Also it was time to get a "real" tool chest. Summit has a Clarke, 9 drawer lockable, roller bearing, tool padding already installed, VERY well built chest for $165. Best price I could find for this type of chest.
Guys---trust me on this one ---get the tank. Pics as soon as I can get it installed---right now I have Honey do stuff like installing a hardwood floor to finish. Grumble.
OD

Rote8

Yeah, 3 more degrees would be nice.
Cam knows you track your car....
With the MAF readings I have, I really don't know if more advance would help me though.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Might want to watch the aluminum hose ends...they will be OK if the anodization stays intact...but meth will eat the aluminum faster than you can say "Jack Robinson"

Brass hose ends are a much better option that aluminum ( and cheaper )

Rote8

Bummer.

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

Did you get the one made for mustangs? It looks really nice. Can't wait to see pics. What size hose fittings are on it? I plan on stockpiling many parts while I'm deployed. This may have to be one of them.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

the hoses that come with the pettit kit will fit--get the one for the pre 2005 mustangs so the fittings will be in the best position.
olddragger

Moon Assad

Make sure your belt isnt to tight.

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

Does anyone else have a hell of a time trying to tighten their belt? I would like mine to be "just a little tighter" and I can't get it

Moon Assad

Id recomend that all the owners that are having slippage problems check the pully bolt before you try cranking down that belt to much. You might cause damage if it is the problem like to much tension on the crank pully. And if you still have that copper nut after tightening it and lossening it alot im pretty sure its gona lossen on its own.

Rote8

I can just turn it 90 degrees.
Boost is steady and comes on very fast.
I am waiting to see if my long term trims are gone.

Rote8

If you have a single "knurled nut" on the adjusting bolt(circled in picture), add a lock nut under the knurled nut on the adjustment bolt.
Before tightening the belt more, check the pulley bolt in the center of the top S/C pulley.
I torqued my S/C pulley bolt to 65 ft-lbs with a two foot torque wrench and a giant belt type oil filter wrench, Moon suggests snugging it down with an air impact.
Tightening that top S/C pulley center bolt made a huge difference.

Note: The top S/C pulley is partially seen in the upper right side of the attached picture.

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

Next time I have the belt off, I'll check the pully tightness using a oil filter belt wrench. With the compressor belt on, it turns. I can barely turn the belt to 90, it just seems like it should be tighter.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

no --belt no tighter than that--too much tension on that belt ---and well you know.
One thing i have also done is to put a lock nut on that belt tension bolt.
I have two nuts on the bottom of the bolt with the threads scored beneath those(make sure to give yourself room enough to loosen it so the belt can be removed) THEN put a lock nut on TOP of the adjustment arm(same bolt). That way everything is nice and tight and solid.
Also dont use this bolt to adjust belt tension. Use a leverage bar to push the tension pulley where you want it--tighten the brass nut a little (its will hold the pulley true and square) THEN tighten the bolt snug.
That will do it
?--what torque is on that allen bolt?
olddragger

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

Well, went out and drove the **** out of her today and logged it. Didn't notice any slippage.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

your timing is pretty conservative there Rote8
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1239401822

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

How do yall like this engine bay?https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1240161865

needs cleaning up a little but it is staring to get there.
olddragger

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

OMFG Denny with big picture?????
You best get crakin on showing us some of those custom piece your workin on.....
Good Job...

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

i dont know how i did that big pic?
OD

the_duke313

nice engine bay, now u just need to get that battery in the trunk!

Rotr8

iTrader: (2)

I think I may have asked this before but having that large image up respurred the question, what is the prurpose of polishing out the end of the IC???

Rote8

That is the spot the cat rubs against when he is working on the engine bay...


/Mine prefers the radiator shroud.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

its a fake junction--i hide nitrous there.
OD

swoope

iTrader: (5)

bay is looking good denny. i will have lots of new shinny toys on the car for rr.

btw, i am going to teach you how to attach a big photo that weekend..

is that a real cf maf housing??

beers