Pettit Super Charger Owners
04-30-2009, 12:45 PM
#5151
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Purge is 1/4 hose from small fitting on the back of the blower. Run through valve then to the return look a like near the fuel supply under the brake booster wich used to run into the intake. The buypass valve sees both boost / Vac, T the check valve in the direction that holds preasure to the Vac tank. The best spot ive found is the fitting under the intake. If you want to have a boost gauge use one of the outer runner hose plugs to tie into.
05-01-2009, 06:38 AM
#5152
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Here is my take, and I hope to have made my response mistake proof:
Picture 1 is perfect, as long as the one way valve is in the correct direction, and allows vacuum to go to the brake booster. (If your brake pedal is hard to press, it's backwards)
Picture 2 -
The Rubber part comes off, a rubber hose from picture 5 connects the metal pipe the hose you have in your hand connects to in picture 2.
This hose you have in your hand connects to the carbon canister vapor purge, as our 8 does not have a normal fuel return.
Picture 3 -
That one way valve goes to the vacuum box you have connects to the bottom frame of picture 4.
Make sure the one way valve is in the correct direction, so only vacuum goes to the vacuum accumulator/distribution pod.
Picture 4 -
Lower frame is the source for purge vacuum, upper frame is the vacuum accumulator/distribution control box.
That may well work, it is a new thought, we currently use it for the source vacuum for picture 5.(the purge valve, which connects to the source of the hose in picture 2.
(Moon, any thoughts on using a tee, to run the vacuum accumulator and the purge from here?)
Picture 5 -
Fuel tank vapor purge valve.
Moon, please check the above for accuracy, and see if there is any way to take it wrong.
Picture 1 is perfect, as long as the one way valve is in the correct direction, and allows vacuum to go to the brake booster. (If your brake pedal is hard to press, it's backwards)
Picture 2 -
The Rubber part comes off, a rubber hose from picture 5 connects the metal pipe the hose you have in your hand connects to in picture 2.
This hose you have in your hand connects to the carbon canister vapor purge, as our 8 does not have a normal fuel return.
Picture 3 -
That one way valve goes to the vacuum box you have connects to the bottom frame of picture 4.
Make sure the one way valve is in the correct direction, so only vacuum goes to the vacuum accumulator/distribution pod.
Picture 4 -
Lower frame is the source for purge vacuum, upper frame is the vacuum accumulator/distribution control box.
That may well work, it is a new thought, we currently use it for the source vacuum for picture 5.(the purge valve, which connects to the source of the hose in picture 2.
(Moon, any thoughts on using a tee, to run the vacuum accumulator and the purge from here?)
Picture 5 -
Fuel tank vapor purge valve.
Moon, please check the above for accuracy, and see if there is any way to take it wrong.
Last edited by Rote8; 05-01-2009 at 06:49 AM.
05-03-2009, 12:29 AM
#5155
U-Stink-But-I-♥-U
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I didn't say that DSC had anything to do with the baro sensor. I said that if you disconnect the battery, disconnect the baro sensor and then restart, you will have a DSC error (and a cel). I have done it and would be happy to demonstrate for you. But that has NOTHING to do with this issue. If you bothered to read, I was suggesting, using this as an example, that the dsc error was not involved with the problem at hand. Jebuz.
Do I need to type more slowly so that you can get what I am saying?
Here.
He disconnected the battery.
He reconnected the battery.
THe DSC was lit.
No suggestion from him that he turned lock-to-lock to reset.
Poster complained that the DSC error was involved in the issue.
I asked if the poster bothered to reset the steering angle sensor.
I gave an example of how unrelated issues can result in DSC errors.
You jumped in *** first blathering to start an arguement.
I showed you how much FAIL was in your post.
05-03-2009, 04:18 PM
#5156
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STFU dumass. Try some reading lessons. Now you are just stirring ****. Hell, I was trying to help.
I didn't say that DSC had anything to do with the baro sensor. I said that if you disconnect the battery, disconnect the baro sensor and then restart, you will have a DSC error (and a cel). I have done it and would be happy to demonstrate for you. But that has NOTHING to do with this issue. If you bothered to read, I was suggesting, using this as an example, that the dsc error was not involved with the problem at hand. Jebuz.
Do I need to type more slowly so that you can get what I am saying?
Here.
He disconnected the battery.
He reconnected the battery.
THe DSC was lit.
No suggestion from him that he turned lock-to-lock to reset.
Poster complained that the DSC error was involved in the issue.
I asked if the poster bothered to reset the steering angle sensor.
I gave an example of how unrelated issues can result in DSC errors.
You jumped in *** first blathering to start an arguement.
I showed you how much FAIL was in your post.
I didn't say that DSC had anything to do with the baro sensor. I said that if you disconnect the battery, disconnect the baro sensor and then restart, you will have a DSC error (and a cel). I have done it and would be happy to demonstrate for you. But that has NOTHING to do with this issue. If you bothered to read, I was suggesting, using this as an example, that the dsc error was not involved with the problem at hand. Jebuz.
Do I need to type more slowly so that you can get what I am saying?
Here.
He disconnected the battery.
He reconnected the battery.
THe DSC was lit.
No suggestion from him that he turned lock-to-lock to reset.
Poster complained that the DSC error was involved in the issue.
I asked if the poster bothered to reset the steering angle sensor.
I gave an example of how unrelated issues can result in DSC errors.
You jumped in *** first blathering to start an arguement.
I showed you how much FAIL was in your post.
I know you were typing slower because you thought it would help explain your point, but I shouldn't have to tell you that unlike verbal communication typing slower just makes it take longer to post -- this comment you're responding to is like 3 pages back, you need to type faster not slower dude.You're right though, I was trying to stir up **** with a certain known ****-stirrer called carbonRX8. Wanted to turn the tables on you, give you a taste of your own medicine, and put you on the defensive after reading these posts of yours:
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...postcount=5075
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...postcount=5077
I even tried to use some of your words and phrases exactly -- minus the blatant insults (to Moon) and adolescent usage of the word "fail".
Oh, and so I can get this straight -- you weren't even actually referring to the MAF sensor, it was the BARO sensor that you think caused your DSC light.
05-03-2009, 06:38 PM
#5157
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STFU dumass. Try some reading lessons. Now you are just stirring ****. Hell, I was trying to help.
I didn't say that DSC had anything to do with the baro sensor. I said that if you disconnect the battery, disconnect the baro sensor and then restart, you will have a DSC error (and a cel). I have done it and would be happy to demonstrate for you. But that has NOTHING to do with this issue. If you bothered to read, I was suggesting, using this as an example, that the dsc error was not involved with the problem at hand. Jebuz.
Do I need to type more slowly so that you can get what I am saying?
Here.
He disconnected the battery.
He reconnected the battery.
THe DSC was lit.
No suggestion from him that he turned lock-to-lock to reset.
Poster complained that the DSC error was involved in the issue.
I asked if the poster bothered to reset the steering angle sensor.
I gave an example of how unrelated issues can result in DSC errors.
You jumped in *** first blathering to start an arguement.
I showed you how much FAIL was in your post.
I didn't say that DSC had anything to do with the baro sensor. I said that if you disconnect the battery, disconnect the baro sensor and then restart, you will have a DSC error (and a cel). I have done it and would be happy to demonstrate for you. But that has NOTHING to do with this issue. If you bothered to read, I was suggesting, using this as an example, that the dsc error was not involved with the problem at hand. Jebuz.
Do I need to type more slowly so that you can get what I am saying?
Here.
He disconnected the battery.
He reconnected the battery.
THe DSC was lit.
No suggestion from him that he turned lock-to-lock to reset.
Poster complained that the DSC error was involved in the issue.
I asked if the poster bothered to reset the steering angle sensor.
I gave an example of how unrelated issues can result in DSC errors.
You jumped in *** first blathering to start an arguement.
I showed you how much FAIL was in your post.
05-04-2009, 11:10 AM
#5158
Ok-----back to some interesting stuff.
I had a track weekend this pass w/e. Ambient temps 88--89.
Long write up later--but some quick hints:
1- if you tracking with this kit --do install an oil catch can(like Cam/Moon have already suggested) my little crankcase breather set up worked , but i could have used a catch can for a very small amount of oil.
2- coolant temps during a hard ran 30 min session--no higher than 195F. oil the same AND charge air temps with the water meth never over 125F!!! i had to swap my nozzoles arounf so that the 100 nozzle was on the upper intake side and the 75 was before the s.c.--other wise i would get a lot of condensation on the s/c intake!!!!
3- when you are pushing this much w/m through the system (i was using 1 1/2 gallons a day) take the nozzles out once a day and clean them--gunk can build up.
Max rpm is around 7.5--anything more = slower times, more heat and less gas milage.
4- the 09 pump = NO FUEL STARVATION --even down to 4 clicks from empty!! This is VERY significant!!
5- pre mix to 1 oz a gallon--since i am turning less rpms the omp is not putting out as much--i only used almost a quart of oil the entire w/e.
As far as performance---lets say this--the rx8 is gaining respect on the track hehehe. I pulled and passed a well driven Lotus, a fairly well driven GT 3 Porsche (non ceramic brake type) and a poorly driven track devil set up Mustang (new supercharged version with track exhaust and tires etc--he couldnt pull me on the front enough to get rid of me and i finally got em!! Rest of them 350's, S2's, 911's, M3's (they were tough) etc were no trouble. I could talk all day about it!
olddragger
My hood--the rear lip flex's like a wave between 130-135.
I had a track weekend this pass w/e. Ambient temps 88--89.
Long write up later--but some quick hints:
1- if you tracking with this kit --do install an oil catch can(like Cam/Moon have already suggested) my little crankcase breather set up worked , but i could have used a catch can for a very small amount of oil.
2- coolant temps during a hard ran 30 min session--no higher than 195F. oil the same AND charge air temps with the water meth never over 125F!!! i had to swap my nozzoles arounf so that the 100 nozzle was on the upper intake side and the 75 was before the s.c.--other wise i would get a lot of condensation on the s/c intake!!!!
3- when you are pushing this much w/m through the system (i was using 1 1/2 gallons a day) take the nozzles out once a day and clean them--gunk can build up.
Max rpm is around 7.5--anything more = slower times, more heat and less gas milage.
4- the 09 pump = NO FUEL STARVATION --even down to 4 clicks from empty!! This is VERY significant!!
5- pre mix to 1 oz a gallon--since i am turning less rpms the omp is not putting out as much--i only used almost a quart of oil the entire w/e.
As far as performance---lets say this--the rx8 is gaining respect on the track hehehe. I pulled and passed a well driven Lotus, a fairly well driven GT 3 Porsche (non ceramic brake type) and a poorly driven track devil set up Mustang (new supercharged version with track exhaust and tires etc--he couldnt pull me on the front enough to get rid of me and i finally got em!! Rest of them 350's, S2's, 911's, M3's (they were tough) etc were no trouble. I could talk all day about it!
olddragger
My hood--the rear lip flex's like a wave between 130-135.
05-04-2009, 09:57 PM
#5160
Ok-----back to some interesting stuff.
I had a track weekend this pass w/e. Ambient temps 88--89.
Long write up later--but some quick hints:
1- if you tracking with this kit --do install an oil catch can(like Cam/Moon have already suggested) my little crankcase breather set up worked , but i could have used a catch can for a very small amount of oil.
2- coolant temps during a hard ran 30 min session--no higher than 195F. oil the same AND charge air temps with the water meth never over 125F!!! i had to swap my nozzoles arounf so that the 100 nozzle was on the upper intake side and the 75 was before the s.c.--other wise i would get a lot of condensation on the s/c intake!!!!
3- when you are pushing this much w/m through the system (i was using 1 1/2 gallons a day) take the nozzles out once a day and clean them--gunk can build up.
Max rpm is around 7.5--anything more = slower times, more heat and less gas milage.
4- the 09 pump = NO FUEL STARVATION --even down to 4 clicks from empty!! This is VERY significant!!
5- pre mix to 1 oz a gallon--since i am turning less rpms the omp is not putting out as much--i only used almost a quart of oil the entire w/e.
As far as performance---lets say this--the rx8 is gaining respect on the track hehehe. I pulled and passed a well driven Lotus, a fairly well driven GT 3 Porsche (non ceramic brake type) and a poorly driven track devil set up Mustang (new supercharged version with track exhaust and tires etc--he couldnt pull me on the front enough to get rid of me and i finally got em!! Rest of them 350's, S2's, 911's, M3's (they were tough) etc were no trouble. I could talk all day about it!
olddragger
My hood--the rear lip flex's like a wave between 130-135.
I had a track weekend this pass w/e. Ambient temps 88--89.
Long write up later--but some quick hints:
1- if you tracking with this kit --do install an oil catch can(like Cam/Moon have already suggested) my little crankcase breather set up worked , but i could have used a catch can for a very small amount of oil.
2- coolant temps during a hard ran 30 min session--no higher than 195F. oil the same AND charge air temps with the water meth never over 125F!!! i had to swap my nozzoles arounf so that the 100 nozzle was on the upper intake side and the 75 was before the s.c.--other wise i would get a lot of condensation on the s/c intake!!!!
3- when you are pushing this much w/m through the system (i was using 1 1/2 gallons a day) take the nozzles out once a day and clean them--gunk can build up.
Max rpm is around 7.5--anything more = slower times, more heat and less gas milage.
4- the 09 pump = NO FUEL STARVATION --even down to 4 clicks from empty!! This is VERY significant!!
5- pre mix to 1 oz a gallon--since i am turning less rpms the omp is not putting out as much--i only used almost a quart of oil the entire w/e.
As far as performance---lets say this--the rx8 is gaining respect on the track hehehe. I pulled and passed a well driven Lotus, a fairly well driven GT 3 Porsche (non ceramic brake type) and a poorly driven track devil set up Mustang (new supercharged version with track exhaust and tires etc--he couldnt pull me on the front enough to get rid of me and i finally got em!! Rest of them 350's, S2's, 911's, M3's (they were tough) etc were no trouble. I could talk all day about it!
olddragger
My hood--the rear lip flex's like a wave between 130-135.
05-05-2009, 09:47 AM
#5163
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Just want to say That I finished the installation !!
I didn't give a run yet because of a poor weather...as the rx8 is not a boat
but what a feeling ! and the sound is awsome !!!
attached to hoose connection I did (thanks to Cam for the drawing)
now I've got to see what can I do to have more whp
---
But I do not know why, on the idle position (gear) the RPM fall at 500RPM and then the engine stop ! is it because of the PCM ?!
I didn't give a run yet because of a poor weather...as the rx8 is not a boat
but what a feeling ! and the sound is awsome !!!
attached to hoose connection I did (thanks to Cam for the drawing)
now I've got to see what can I do to have more whp
---
But I do not know why, on the idle position (gear) the RPM fall at 500RPM and then the engine stop ! is it because of the PCM ?!
05-05-2009, 10:45 AM
#5164
congrats dude!! be careful at first and watch your gauges--you do have a/f gauge --right?
Take it easy at 1st--watch your temps, make sure ALL your hoses are on tight(my 1st test drive allowed me to use a pine tree stick to plug off a vacuum hose that had come off--so i could get home!) ALWAYS bring your oil up to temp before you put a load on it or go past 3 K.
Its going to be a ride and it will take a little time to sort out and learn to drive it as it is now a differant car.!!!
http://picasaweb.google.com/stknowhe...74370567404690
after you get your car settled--this is what you can kill on the track when it is driven by the average driver.
no kidding. I did it this past w/e--and it was not slow.
yep at 130+ needs some aero work and you need MUCH stiffer springs to be able to brake like an rx8! below 125 no problem with aero or anything while having just slightly stiffer springs (konis on of course)
I am impressed with the 09 pump---seriously.
I am impressed with the moroso a/w tank--seriously.
I am VERY impressed with a secondary radiator set up--EVERYONE LIVING IN THE SOUTH SHOULD HAVE THIS!!!! NO EXCUSES__YOU HAVE SPENT SERIOUS MONEY AND TIME ON YOUR CAR____DO THIS!!!!
I am impressed with the water meth system---ALSO DO THIS---i had no misfires on the track and everyone else did(RX8's and there were 8 of them there. Course i am only going up to 7.5 K I am running the oem coils.
i actually had other drivers coming up to me afterward (that i didnt know saying DAMN--this 8 is fast and its beatiful to watch-- once the chassis settles--it just GOES. These guys were driving Subarus WRX'sSTI's, S2's, M3's and a couple corvettes and porsche's.
8's rep has been bumped up a notch in the SE track community.
They saw my track temps an also said---- DAMN !
if anyone wants to set this car and kit up for the road course--contact me--i have learned a lot.
olddragger
olddragger
Take it easy at 1st--watch your temps, make sure ALL your hoses are on tight(my 1st test drive allowed me to use a pine tree stick to plug off a vacuum hose that had come off--so i could get home!) ALWAYS bring your oil up to temp before you put a load on it or go past 3 K.
Its going to be a ride and it will take a little time to sort out and learn to drive it as it is now a differant car.!!!
http://picasaweb.google.com/stknowhe...74370567404690
after you get your car settled--this is what you can kill on the track when it is driven by the average driver.
no kidding. I did it this past w/e--and it was not slow.
yep at 130+ needs some aero work and you need MUCH stiffer springs to be able to brake like an rx8! below 125 no problem with aero or anything while having just slightly stiffer springs (konis on of course)
I am impressed with the 09 pump---seriously.
I am impressed with the moroso a/w tank--seriously.
I am VERY impressed with a secondary radiator set up--EVERYONE LIVING IN THE SOUTH SHOULD HAVE THIS!!!! NO EXCUSES__YOU HAVE SPENT SERIOUS MONEY AND TIME ON YOUR CAR____DO THIS!!!!
I am impressed with the water meth system---ALSO DO THIS---i had no misfires on the track and everyone else did(RX8's and there were 8 of them there. Course i am only going up to 7.5 K
I am running the oem coils.i actually had other drivers coming up to me afterward (that i didnt know saying DAMN--this 8 is fast and its beatiful to watch-- once the chassis settles--it just GOES. These guys were driving Subarus WRX'sSTI's, S2's, M3's and a couple corvettes and porsche's.
8's rep has been bumped up a notch in the SE track community.
They saw my track temps an also said---- DAMN !
if anyone wants to set this car and kit up for the road course--contact me--i have learned a lot.
olddragger
olddragger
Last edited by olddragger; 05-05-2009 at 10:48 AM.
05-05-2009, 03:43 PM
#5166
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Well, I just got back from going to the store and back while logging a bone stock 09. At cruse the temps were 185, when I put my foot in it it climbed to 202. Its only 92 here. Im parking my car till I get the coolers on. Its the first time that ive used the logger, nice simple software, the way it should be. I dont like these drastic changes in temps, it should stay under 200 for 1 and the cooling should stay the same, I have a log from another 90 degree day and it climbed to 212. Not good, thats to close to the edge for me. Greg, have you had any chance to instal the coolers or are you waiting for me to get there. If you can id do it if I were you before I get up there. Id highly reccomend it. Its getting hot.
Last edited by Moon Assad; 05-05-2009 at 03:48 PM.
05-05-2009, 06:59 PM
#5167
Londons Yellow Peril
good stuff OD, it sopunds liek you had a blast.
I'm sure I asked you before about the 09 fuel pump, but how easy is it to retrofit??
I think you said you had a thread about it, but I couldn't find it, or I couldn't understand it!
Also how much is the 09 fuel pump?
I'm sure I asked you before about the 09 fuel pump, but how easy is it to retrofit??
I think you said you had a thread about it, but I couldn't find it, or I couldn't understand it!
Also how much is the 09 fuel pump?
05-05-2009, 09:46 PM
#5168
fellow rx8 guys at the track on this same day were hitting 220F with their coolant--some never learn--i have talked and talked and shown hard data. Still no one is interested. I just dont understand it. They will spend money on water pumps and thermostats (which only help a little ) but not this. Doesnt make sense.
the 09 pump basically needs 3 things to install:
1- the connector from the fuel level sending unit etc is a little different--so that has to be fixed--slight rewire--no prob
2- the tank venturi line has to be cut ( the 09 pump uses a bigger line and the connector will not fit) and fitted to the pump with submersible gas hose using just regular hose clamps. remember this line does not have a lot of pressure on it.
3- the entire pump assembly has to be rotated approx 90 degrees when it is installed so the fuel hose that goes to the injectors will line up ok and not have any binding (have to be careful with the venturi and wiring when you do this--its not a prob--just dont do it without watching these 2 things.
Once you get this kit on the car, get it dialed in, and you are comfortable running it without watching gauges a lot--you will be a force that any stock bodied daily driven car needs to watch for. You still wont pull ALL of them on the straight, but they will be surprised when they dont pull you SO much and when the braking and twisters come around--there you are--eating their ***!! Before --that pull away distance was too much to make up.
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_0590.JPG
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_0589.JPG
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_0618.JPG
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_0642.JPG
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_1003.JPG
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_9904.JPG
the last 3 pics kinda shows the ground i made up on this little lotus in less than 1 mile of track and 5 turns.
olddragger
the 09 pump basically needs 3 things to install:
1- the connector from the fuel level sending unit etc is a little different--so that has to be fixed--slight rewire--no prob
2- the tank venturi line has to be cut ( the 09 pump uses a bigger line and the connector will not fit) and fitted to the pump with submersible gas hose using just regular hose clamps. remember this line does not have a lot of pressure on it.
3- the entire pump assembly has to be rotated approx 90 degrees when it is installed so the fuel hose that goes to the injectors will line up ok and not have any binding (have to be careful with the venturi and wiring when you do this--its not a prob--just dont do it without watching these 2 things.
Once you get this kit on the car, get it dialed in, and you are comfortable running it without watching gauges a lot--you will be a force that any stock bodied daily driven car needs to watch for. You still wont pull ALL of them on the straight, but they will be surprised when they dont pull you SO much and when the braking and twisters come around--there you are--eating their ***!! Before --that pull away distance was too much to make up.
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_0590.JPG
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_0589.JPG
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_0618.JPG
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_0642.JPG
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_1003.JPG
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/d/1...1/IMG_9904.JPG
the last 3 pics kinda shows the ground i made up on this little lotus in less than 1 mile of track and 5 turns.
olddragger
05-06-2009, 12:44 AM
#5169
fellow rx8 guys at the track on this same day were hitting 220F with their coolant--some never learn--i have talked and talked and shown hard data. Still no one is interested. I just dont understand it. They will spend money on water pumps and thermostats (which only help a little ) but not this. Doesnt make sense.
I totally agree - FI people really need to do this instaed of spending money on useless stuff ....
05-06-2009, 03:46 AM
#5170
Registered
Uh, you DID flash the stock ECU?
The Pettit S/C flash will keep the idle at about 1200 rpm and provides a safe tune to keep from going lean and causing engine damage.
Do not drive or even rev the car hard if you are not tuned (flashed or Int-X) for the supercharger.
05-06-2009, 07:28 AM
#5172
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I give a testdrive yesterday, the car is awsome ! but I think I can get more of it
But the engine always stop if RPM is lower then 1000/1500.
So I think I have to do an other flash....
find attached the error code I get everytime it stoped.
here is what I found about that :
P0171 Adaptive Fuel Trim Too Lean (Bank 1)
* Vehicle driven low on fuel or until it ran out of fuel
* One or more injectors restricted or pressure regulator has failed
* Fuel delivery system supplying too much or too little fuel during cruise or idle periods (e.g., faulty fuel pump, or dirty fuel filter)
* Air leaks after the MAF sensor, or air leaks in the PCV system
* Air leaks at the EGR gasket, or at the EGR valve diaphragm
* Exhaust leaks before or near where the front HO2S is mounted
* HO2S is contaminated, deteriorated or it has failed
* Fuel control sensor is out of calibration (i.e., ECT, IAT or MAP)
* Base engine "mechanical" fault affecting one or more cylinders
Engine running in closed loop at cruise speed for 2 minutes, and the PCM detected the A/F ratio remained leaner than the fuel correction limit in memory for 10 seconds during the Fuel System Monitor test.
This code sets in 2 Trip(s).
need advice please :s
Last edited by JMKuco; 05-06-2009 at 07:41 AM.
05-06-2009, 10:55 AM
#5173
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I did the flash before I install the kit.
I give a testdrive yesterday, the car is awsome ! but I think I can get more of it
But the engine always stop if RPM is lower then 1000/1500.
So I think I have to do an other flash....
find attached the error code I get everytime it stoped.
here is what I found about that :
P0171 Adaptive Fuel Trim Too Lean (Bank 1)
* Vehicle driven low on fuel or until it ran out of fuel
* One or more injectors restricted or pressure regulator has failed
* Fuel delivery system supplying too much or too little fuel during cruise or idle periods (e.g., faulty fuel pump, or dirty fuel filter)
* Air leaks after the MAF sensor, or air leaks in the PCV system
* Air leaks at the EGR gasket, or at the EGR valve diaphragm
* Exhaust leaks before or near where the front HO2S is mounted
* HO2S is contaminated, deteriorated or it has failed
* Fuel control sensor is out of calibration (i.e., ECT, IAT or MAP)
* Base engine "mechanical" fault affecting one or more cylinders
Engine running in closed loop at cruise speed for 2 minutes, and the PCM detected the A/F ratio remained leaner than the fuel correction limit in memory for 10 seconds during the Fuel System Monitor test.
This code sets in 2 Trip(s).
need advice please :s
I give a testdrive yesterday, the car is awsome ! but I think I can get more of it
But the engine always stop if RPM is lower then 1000/1500.
So I think I have to do an other flash....
find attached the error code I get everytime it stoped.
here is what I found about that :
P0171 Adaptive Fuel Trim Too Lean (Bank 1)
* Vehicle driven low on fuel or until it ran out of fuel
* One or more injectors restricted or pressure regulator has failed
* Fuel delivery system supplying too much or too little fuel during cruise or idle periods (e.g., faulty fuel pump, or dirty fuel filter)
* Air leaks after the MAF sensor, or air leaks in the PCV system
* Air leaks at the EGR gasket, or at the EGR valve diaphragm
* Exhaust leaks before or near where the front HO2S is mounted
* HO2S is contaminated, deteriorated or it has failed
* Fuel control sensor is out of calibration (i.e., ECT, IAT or MAP)
* Base engine "mechanical" fault affecting one or more cylinders
Engine running in closed loop at cruise speed for 2 minutes, and the PCM detected the A/F ratio remained leaner than the fuel correction limit in memory for 10 seconds during the Fuel System Monitor test.
This code sets in 2 Trip(s).
need advice please :s
Well, stop driving your car. You need to do some trouble shooting, look at your data. Im busy moving so ill point you in the rite direction, there is the ever preasant Cat problem, how many miles on car???cat?? then its off to the fuel pump (Check filter). Check everything you did and dont keep driving your car till you find the problem, you will now if its the problem, also check you OMP line!!!!
05-06-2009, 11:30 AM
#5174
I am running the 18 inch 9.5s with 275/35 nto1's--cant wait to get back on 17's and a 245 hoosier.
Yea Dude DONT drive the car. cant read your attachment?
too lean means air leak somewhere or a fuel supply problem. check your plugs and see if any difference between the rotors, trouble shoot all intake connections and vacuum lines(loose vacuum line may be causing your idle problem)
my 1st guess would be a vacuum line somewhere---then if they are all ok--then a fuel supply problem.
You are using the Pettit's maf pipe--right?
Get an a/f gauge SOON.
Trouble shoot and dont get discourged --major mods almost never work right on the 1st crank.
olddragger
Yea Dude DONT drive the car. cant read your attachment?
too lean means air leak somewhere or a fuel supply problem. check your plugs and see if any difference between the rotors, trouble shoot all intake connections and vacuum lines(loose vacuum line may be causing your idle problem)
my 1st guess would be a vacuum line somewhere---then if they are all ok--then a fuel supply problem.
You are using the Pettit's maf pipe--right?
Get an a/f gauge SOON.
Trouble shoot and dont get discourged --major mods almost never work right on the 1st crank.
olddragger
05-06-2009, 12:08 PM
#5175
Registered
