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Old 05-10-2009, 10:02 PM
  #5201  
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Sorry to bother, but can someone clarify the water meth use for me? I under stand it is used to cool boost air temps, correct?

Where is it injected, is it recycled (from the photo ^^^ it doesn't look like it), and when should a water meth system be used?

Thx
R
Old 05-11-2009, 07:03 AM
  #5202  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
pretty but will those aluminum connectors get ate up by the methanol?

I have discovered we need a minimum of 52 sq inches of air filter. anyone know how many we have?
olddragger
One air filter?


I have no idea, but it is a K&N filter, K&N would know.


Originally Posted by dannobre
You should really use brass fittings..they won't corrode and leak like the aluminum ones...although if the anodization is intact they aren't that bad

I'm a bit concerned about you mounting that pump in the trunk though If there is a leak..you will get a trunk full of methanol vapor very fast......and one spark and......well you get it.

There is a good spot to mount it under the floor behind the passenger wheel well.....
It is 50/50 water-methanol now, much safer.


Originally Posted by endowdly
Sorry to bother, but can someone clarify the water meth use for me? I under stand it is used to cool boost air temps, correct?

Where is it injected, is it recycled (from the photo ^^^ it doesn't look like it), and when should a water meth system be used?

Thx
R
The water-methanol mix is not "recycled"
The octane increase is nice:
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...icle_info.html

Wikipedia:

In internal combustion engines, water injection, also known as anti-detonant injection, is a method for cooling the combustion chambers of engines by adding water to the cylinder or incoming fuel-air mixture, allowing for greater compression ratios and largely eliminating the problem of engine knocking (detonation). This effectively increases the octane rating of the fuel, meaning that performance gains can be obtained when used in conjunction with a supercharger or turbocharger, altered spark ignition timing, and other modifications.

Last edited by Rote8; 05-11-2009 at 07:16 AM.
Old 05-11-2009, 07:35 AM
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yea--agreed 50/50 w/m is really non combustible to open flame--i have mine in the truck also.Have the 1+gallon tank--in road racing the 1-2 quart is not big enough.

I use w/m anytime i put a near full to full load on the car.

A leak could cause a mess through--Dan is right about that and I may double tube the tank to pump connection--thanks dan

Amend to the size of air filter we need IT IS 61 SQ INCHES--this is after consult with K&N---currently we have approx mid 40's so high rpm demands are lacking. Have you ever wondered why Racing Beat Revi intake had such a big filter in it? Maybe this is why Juan once changed to the more open weave type(non daily use Blitz I believe) he gained some up top power. Currently i am looking for something that will fit. I wonder how the APex i filter would do?
Feedback?
olddragger
Old 05-11-2009, 09:59 AM
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The water-methanol mix is not "recycled"
The octane increase is nice:
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...icle_info.html

Great article!

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds pretty wicked, actually.

How much will a 2 quart jug last you and how much does it cost per fill of water-meth?

R
Old 05-11-2009, 11:19 AM
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OK !
I finaly receive my new Efidude (I live far away )
I sent a mail to cam to know if I re-flash the PCM with the old files they sent me or if I wait for some new files ...

waiting for news....
Old 05-11-2009, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by endowdly
The water-methanol mix is not "recycled"
The octane increase is nice:
http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.c...icle_info.html

Great article!

Thanks for the clarification. Sounds pretty wicked, actually.

How much will a 2 quart jug last you and how much does it cost per fill of water-meth?

R
I was paying $50+ for 4 gallons of Snow Performance brand "Boost-Juice" (50/50 water-methanol).
Now I have purchased a 5 gallon can of VP Racing's M1 straight methanol (for 51 dollars) and mix it 50/50 with distilled water from the grocery store.

Others, here on the forum, mix the VP Racing M5 (methanol with a small amount of nitromethane and some upper engine lube)

I can run through a quart in a 25 mile city drive, or use hardly any on the highway.
It's all in the way you hold your right foot

Last edited by Rote8; 05-11-2009 at 01:38 PM.
Old 05-11-2009, 01:08 PM
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hmm...
Old 05-11-2009, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
~

A leak could cause a mess through--Dan is right about that and I may double tube the tank to pump connection--thanks dan
That is exactly why I went to braided lines with AN connectors.

Originally Posted by olddragger
Amend to the size of air filter we need IT IS 61 SQ INCHES--this is after consult with K&N---currently we have approx mid 40's so high rpm demands are lacking. Have you ever wondered why Racing Beat Revi intake had such a big filter in it? Maybe this is why Juan once changed to the more open weave type(non daily use Blitz I believe) he gained some up top power. Currently i am looking for something that will fit. I wonder how the APex i filter would do?
Feedback?
olddragger
I saw a photo of a non-boosted 8 with two K&N filters arranged into a "tee" on this forum.
Old 05-11-2009, 05:13 PM
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w/m --i use windsheild washer fluid -20F blue color and 2 bottles of heet . cost about $4 a gallon that way and easily available.
Pay attention to the air filter thingy here.
OD
Old 05-11-2009, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
w/m --i use windsheild washer fluid -20F blue color and 2 bottles of heet ~
OD
Which HEET product?
Old 05-12-2009, 07:07 AM
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yellow bottle only--dont use the red one--if you want more than 50/50 w/m concentration just add 3 bottles.
if you have to get the snow stuff shipped that is whats kills ya. Summit racing is about 40 min from home and i can get it at $32 a case--but its no different than what i use.
the m5 stuff--i am not sure the pump seals can take that for long--snow advises not to use it.

Once again if you want another 10 hp up top --get a bigger air filter!!
olddragger
Old 05-12-2009, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
Once again if you want another 10 hp up top --get a bigger air filter!!
olddragger
you get more hp by simply changing the K&N air filter for a bigger one ?
Old 05-12-2009, 08:39 AM
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I have a hard time reaching Cam !

I received my new EfiDude but I do not know if they have to send me new datas to flash the car or do I use the old ones ?
Old 05-12-2009, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by JMKuco
you get more hp by simply changing the K&N air filter for a bigger one ?
More air... more combustion... more HP!
Old 05-12-2009, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
yellow bottle only--dont use the red one--if you want more than 50/50 w/m concentration just add 3 bottles.
if you have to get the snow stuff shipped that is whats kills ya. Summit racing is about 40 min from home and i can get it at $32 a case--but its no different than what i use.
the m5 stuff--i am not sure the pump seals can take that for long--snow advises not to use it.
I found new pump seals for ten dollars.
(I was running straight methanol w 40% nitro; ask me about frozen intakes!)


Originally Posted by olddragger
Once again if you want another 10 hp up top --get a bigger air filter!!
olddragger
Do you have any idea what filter model(s)?

Update:

Just ordered
K&N - RE-0950 3.5 in (intake dia) 6 in (base dia) 4.625 in (end dia) 6 in (length) 1.75 in (base plate length)
I'll let you know if it fits!


Update 2:
The K&N RE-0950 fits!
It barely goes into place, once in place, it fits exactly.
It will fit better without the stock plastic tray (Pettit kit retained) that went under the OEM airbox.
Mine was "forced" into place with the plastic tray still installed; once in place, it fits good.

Last edited by Rote8; 10-16-2009 at 05:12 PM.
Old 05-13-2009, 04:57 PM
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nope looking at different models myself .Some folks maf may not like the change either.
where is everyone?
OD
Old 05-13-2009, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
I have discovered we need a minimum of 52 sq inches of air filter. anyone know how many we have?
olddragger
how did you work this one out? there is the old pressure drop test. see how much the pressure drops across the filter less is better.

for the approximate area:
measure the depth of a pleat on the air filter x2 x number of folds x the height of the filter.
Old 05-14-2009, 10:51 AM
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K& n provides a formula
if i remember correctly it goes like this

cu in's x rpm
----------------
20. something

now the cu in thing has to be figued "differently" for the rotary engine--its about the amount of air you are moving not the actual cu in--so we are at approx 2.3 liter which is about 168 cu in?
anyway they said we need approx and at LEAST 61 sq inches of filter. I really dont know how to figue the cone filters sq ins--it just not big enough. I can est of maybe 40's?
rote -- old buddy you have some air restriction going on by the close proximitys of the fuse box etc and your out side airflow into the engine bay is pretty much restricted--isnt it?
change out that oem airbox mount thingy and make some room.
ever get your dwell times changed?
olddragger
Old 05-14-2009, 11:25 AM
  #5219  
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So whos gonna dive in and try and adapt the AEM CAI to the MAF pipe... The filter that comes with it is far larger than the one we have...
Hows bout it Denny wanna take a try???
I have the K&N drycharger 'sock' on my filter now and above 7K rpm you can hear it slapping the skin of the sock around on the filter, diffintely seems to be pulling more air than it can handle...
When I brought the whole CAI thing up a while back, everyone was screaming" you dont want to do that, blah blah blah",, for the life of me cant understand why not?
Old 05-14-2009, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
nope looking at different models myself .Some folks maf may not like the change either.where is everyone?
OD
And what do you mean by that???
Please ellaborate
Old 05-14-2009, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotr8
So whos gonna dive in and try and adapt the AEM CAI to the MAF pipe... The filter that comes with it is far larger than the one we have...
Hows bout it Denny wanna take a try???
I have the K&N drycharger 'sock' on my filter now and above 7K rpm you can hear it slapping the skin of the sock around on the filter, diffintely seems to be pulling more air than it can handle...
When I brought the whole CAI thing up a while back, everyone was screaming" you dont want to do that, blah blah blah",, for the life of me cant understand why not?

I think the AEM is too small diameter, you will run rich.
Our MAF tube is 3.5 inches in diameter; I am guessing that a CAI tube about 4 inches in diameter from the Pettit MAF all the way to a 4 inch diameter filter flange would be about right.

I see a hack saw in my future....
Old 05-14-2009, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Rote8
I think the AEM is too small diameter, you will run rich.
Our MAF tube is 3.5 inches in diameter; I am guessing that a CAI tube about 4 inches in diameter from the Pettit MAF all the way to a 4 inch diameter filter flange would be about right.

I see a hack saw in my future....
The AEM MAF housing, intake or filter is too small diameter?

The Pettit housing is *supposed* to be stock diameter, from what I read. AEM MAF housing is as close to stock as any aftermarket intake out there... try running a 4" diameter pipe up to the 3.5" MAF housing and I bet you'll have some issues with turbulence. I don't even understand how the stock Pettit setup works well since the filter is so crazy close to the MAF...
Old 05-14-2009, 06:05 PM
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do NOT change the maf tube!! I repeat Do not!!!
also --word of warning here---anytime you change anything on the intake whether it is a cold air supply--new type filter etc--ALWAYS do some data logging before you run it hard. Check the a/f's. Some maf's do not like change!!!! Some will develop excessive long term trims, some will actually run leaner---i have had that happen----some will have wildly fluctuating a/f's--i have had that happen also. I have not found the right one for my car yet. I am probably preaching to the choir here --but wanted to throw that out.
I just tried a new one--looked good per a/f meter--best i could tell --until i did a 30mpg to 80 mph 3nd gear run and logged per efi dude. after looking at the file its coming off. I barely made it into the 12's under boost and at 7.5K!! Thats with the water meth running!! The efi dude monitors the most important a/f --the one that the computer talks too. My innovate a/f was also not showing any low 12's or any 11's during the little run--but it happens so fast. But on the road during normal driving she was reading right--you know low 14's cruising drops in the 13's etc during light acceleration or above 3.8K.
JUST BE CAREFUL.
olddragger
Old 05-14-2009, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
do NOT change the maf tube!! I~
No way will I change the MAF tube; I was going to stay with the Pettit MAF, but from there forward I intend to adapt up from the 3.5" of the Pettit MAF to a 4" pipe and run the 4" pipe out to the front like a Mazdaspeed intake, but on steroids.


Yes, logging is the second thing to do after any change. (first thing is a ROOM fuse pull)


I think the over rich condition of most stock RX8 CAIs (when used on the Pettit kit) is because the blower pulls much more air than what the CAI is designed for.

I plan to mock up the CAI with PVC next weekend and replace my "tray" under the coils and air filter.

LOL:
I found a filter I like. for my CAI project; think it has enough filter area?

Last edited by Rote8; 05-14-2009 at 07:25 PM.
Old 05-15-2009, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Rote8
I found a filter I like. for my CAI project; think it has enough filter area?
jeez, if surface area is so important to K&N why does their products not tell you the filter surface area!


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