Pettit Super Charger Owners
07-07-2009, 07:06 AM
#5601
with the standard Pettit kit i pulled 305 g/sec airflow(very roughly = to hp at the wheels) at 7.8K rpm in 4th gear--my boost was approx 7lbs then rocketman. I also would suggest starting with the standard kit--get your car sorted then increase boost if you want.
Yall should I post my secondary radiator install details and results?
Sure controls engine coolant temps--ran it during all seasons not ---from 100F to 20F ambiet.
olddragger
Yall should I post my secondary radiator install details and results?
Sure controls engine coolant temps--ran it during all seasons not ---from 100F to 20F ambiet.
olddragger
07-07-2009, 08:51 AM
#5602
Hey Rocket,
I agree with everyone, start with the standard kit, and build it up from there.
BTW, you'll have plenty of support from Rote8 and myself if you buy this thing. If you're interested I can give you a test ride in my car if you want to get an idea what this kit can do.
I agree with everyone, start with the standard kit, and build it up from there.
BTW, you'll have plenty of support from Rote8 and myself if you buy this thing. If you're interested I can give you a test ride in my car if you want to get an idea what this kit can do.
07-07-2009, 10:59 AM
#5603
Tailgaters beware
I don't like the 195 rw torque and want it in the 225+ range if possible, not to mention I like the idea of making 400 flywheel hp which is what these guys at 327 rwhp are right at. I want my car to be respectable rather than a great handling car that on a hot day gets beat by a VW vr6, the car looks much faster than it is and I've dealt with that for 4 years now. I love the ride but I would like to walk away from a little more of the competition for my $7000. I'm am trying to gather as much info as possible so I don't have to change very much after my initial install.
Last edited by Rocketman1976; 07-07-2009 at 11:17 AM.
07-07-2009, 11:06 AM
#5604
whines all the way home
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You wont be standard you will be FI,,,
Besides Cam probably wont even sell the pulley and injectors to you outta the box,,,
He'll want you to get comfortable with the kit before boosting up...
Besides Cam probably wont even sell the pulley and injectors to you outta the box,,,
He'll want you to get comfortable with the kit before boosting up...
07-07-2009, 11:15 AM
#5605
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Again just to be sure I can skip the air temp mod since I'll be flashing my car, correct? Bought my kit used and no harness provided.
So does anyone here run the protuner software?
So does anyone here run the protuner software?
07-07-2009, 12:29 PM
#5607
Rotary engine addict
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hey what island--i lived in Jamaica for a number of years in the 70's?
I may stand corrected on the underpanel thing--interesting. what I have done to try and help cool the engine /engine bay is to install the secondary radiator(see my posts on this) insulted the airbox tray and around the overflow radiator bottle, installed a fresh air intake that blows onto the airbox and a/w resorvir bottle, run a 70/30 coolant blend (water to antifreeze), mazmart waterpump, wrap the exhaust header, took the front rotor symbol out(blocks airflow)
you do have real gauges? want is you coolant temps showing?
you do need a water meth injection system.
olddragger
I may stand corrected on the underpanel thing--interesting. what I have done to try and help cool the engine /engine bay is to install the secondary radiator(see my posts on this) insulted the airbox tray and around the overflow radiator bottle, installed a fresh air intake that blows onto the airbox and a/w resorvir bottle, run a 70/30 coolant blend (water to antifreeze), mazmart waterpump, wrap the exhaust header, took the front rotor symbol out(blocks airflow)
you do have real gauges? want is you coolant temps showing?
you do need a water meth injection system.
olddragger
I live in Guadeloupe , in the French West Indies (south of cuba).
when I did my run, my coolant temp was more then 110°C
I thinck I'll get the veilside Hood to let the warm air going out
I like the varis ones but I do not want all the rain go into the engine bay ...
07-07-2009, 04:30 PM
#5609
Registered
I can slip my clutch in second.
I am looking at a stage three ceramic clutch.
07-07-2009, 05:05 PM
#5611
all due respect rocketman--get the Volkswagen on a road track with the standard kit on your car and see where he ends up--the standard kit makes the car faster than the numbers sometime indicate.
Guade--I know where that is--we used to island hop from Kingston(Jamaica) to Cuba (Gitmo)
Beautiful country---yep and it is hot.
Get the secondary radiator set up to lower your temps man AND the hood--you can install the radiator yourself---look up my version of it.
Olddragger
Guade--I know where that is--we used to island hop from Kingston(Jamaica) to Cuba (Gitmo)
Beautiful country---yep and it is hot.
Get the secondary radiator set up to lower your temps man AND the hood--you can install the radiator yourself---look up my version of it.
Olddragger
07-08-2009, 07:27 AM
#5612
Friendly word: LIsten to the advice people are trying to give you here. Start with the standard kit and get it sorted first. This is a S/C, not a turbo; boost values don't translate. What matters is what you can get to the road and control. Spend time working with Pettit and Dian getting your tune right first. Manage you engine bay heat and install a meth spray. If you have a good motor, the base kit will give you all the juice this car can put to public roads, and I can tell you for a fact no VR6 will touch you.
Going to a larger pulley runs your S/C closer to its rpm limit, increases exhaust gas temps and heat soak and decreases your fuel mileage. It's not as user friendly. And if you don't believe the exhaust gas temp thing, watch this vid and look at the manifold as the engine reaches top boost:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BGGBU2Lpyo
Slow and steady, my friend. Good luck.
07-08-2009, 08:23 AM
#5613
Some tips: (Others will correct me on these, but I think most of us agree with these)
Get some sticky-backed heat insulation to wrap the blower and keep engine heat off the blower.
(The blower can also use an extra heat proof panel between the engine and the blower itself.)
I need pix of this.....PLEASE!
A larger water tank for the inter-cooler helps.
Yes it does - works great - thanks OD
The BHR coils are going to be great, I have the MSD 4287 coils with another wire kit and fabricated my own coil mount.
I am a firm believer in the BHR coils.
Look on the bottom center of the stock lower intake manifold, you will see a metal tube that connects to a rubber hose, plug both metal pipes that the rubber hose ends connects to.
(The pipe is the "Jet-Air" nozzles, in a stock engine they connect to the intake manifold vacuum and add turbulence to keep fuel from puddling, supercharged engines do not need this.)
Good luck, post the progress.
Get some sticky-backed heat insulation to wrap the blower and keep engine heat off the blower.
(The blower can also use an extra heat proof panel between the engine and the blower itself.)
I need pix of this.....PLEASE!
A larger water tank for the inter-cooler helps.
Yes it does - works great - thanks OD
The BHR coils are going to be great, I have the MSD 4287 coils with another wire kit and fabricated my own coil mount.
I am a firm believer in the BHR coils.
Look on the bottom center of the stock lower intake manifold, you will see a metal tube that connects to a rubber hose, plug both metal pipes that the rubber hose ends connects to.
(The pipe is the "Jet-Air" nozzles, in a stock engine they connect to the intake manifold vacuum and add turbulence to keep fuel from puddling, supercharged engines do not need this.)
Good luck, post the progress.
07-08-2009, 05:38 PM
#5618
with the standard Pettit kit i pulled 305 g/sec airflow(very roughly = to hp at the wheels) at 7.8K rpm in 4th gear--my boost was approx 7lbs then rocketman. I also would suggest starting with the standard kit--get your car sorted then increase boost if you want.
olddragger
olddragger
07-08-2009, 05:59 PM
#5619
Dyno results bear out that 1 g/sec is roughly .9 HP at the HP peak.
So, 305 g/sec at 7800 RPM is roughly 275 wheel HP.
Of course, this is modified by losses incurred by the power adder, which is approximately 13 - 15 HP per 100 for a belt-driven supercharger and 5 - 9 HP per 100 for a turbine-driven unit.
So, 305 g/sec at 7800 RPM is roughly 275 wheel HP.
Of course, this is modified by losses incurred by the power adder, which is approximately 13 - 15 HP per 100 for a belt-driven supercharger and 5 - 9 HP per 100 for a turbine-driven unit.
07-08-2009, 06:05 PM
#5620
Dyno results bear out that 1 g/sec is roughly .9 HP at the HP peak.
So, 305 g/sec at 7800 RPM is roughly 275 wheel HP.
Of course, this is modified by losses incurred by the power adder, which is approximately 13 - 15 HP per 100 for a belt-driven supercharger and 5 - 9 HP per 100 for a turbine-driven unit.
So, 305 g/sec at 7800 RPM is roughly 275 wheel HP.
Of course, this is modified by losses incurred by the power adder, which is approximately 13 - 15 HP per 100 for a belt-driven supercharger and 5 - 9 HP per 100 for a turbine-driven unit.
