Pettit Super Charger Owners
#6176
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#6177
Londons Yellow Peril
yeah unfortunately the welds were ground right out.
It looked nice though, and the rest can be shiny with no problems, just watch out to leave the welds intact!
It looked nice though, and the rest can be shiny with no problems, just watch out to leave the welds intact!
#6178
Grinding the welds flush, no-no. Besides, Cam's welds are a work of art in their own right. As far as powdercoating, yes , you should be able to do it, but the problem is going to be oil creep contaminating the powedercoated surfaces as the blower sits in the oven. High temp paint should work as well and can be touched up easily.
#6180
Registered
Uh, you know you can remove the blower intake and the inter-cooler side too?
Do NOT put the blower into an oven....
#6181
Registered
I rotated my bypass valve.
Now my vacuum hose fitting is pointed straight away from my blower intake side.
Idle engine vacuum is steady at 20 inches of vacuum, where the other way I had a bounce between 18 and 20.
The vacuum line connection is easier to get to as well.
Now my vacuum hose fitting is pointed straight away from my blower intake side.
Idle engine vacuum is steady at 20 inches of vacuum, where the other way I had a bounce between 18 and 20.
The vacuum line connection is easier to get to as well.
#6183
Registered
iTrader: (3)
you did what?
you know ppf's can be a bit tricky to get just right.
also having a exhaust leak when cold--after it warns up good it mostly goes away. ???
new gaskets all the way around--hand cut from percy;'s XXX carbon sheet.
you think i have warped a flange?
also with both mm @ 60 hardeness (poly mounts) you do get a bit of nvh below 2.2K. not much--- but it is there, thinking about doing a 1.5 mm set up.60 on passenger side and reinforce a oem mount on drivers side.
you can really tell a different in throttle "stap" and shifting--its nice. just feels stronger.
OD
you know ppf's can be a bit tricky to get just right.
also having a exhaust leak when cold--after it warns up good it mostly goes away. ???
new gaskets all the way around--hand cut from percy;'s XXX carbon sheet.
you think i have warped a flange?
also with both mm @ 60 hardeness (poly mounts) you do get a bit of nvh below 2.2K. not much--- but it is there, thinking about doing a 1.5 mm set up.60 on passenger side and reinforce a oem mount on drivers side.
you can really tell a different in throttle "stap" and shifting--its nice. just feels stronger.
OD
Last edited by olddragger; 09-26-2009 at 08:35 PM.
#6184
Registered
Here is the new bypass valve position, this way the vacuum side of the blower intake seems to seal better, under boost it seems the same as usual.
The top -4 AN fitting is my Methanol and the check valves for methanol.
The wire from the very top of the Pettit I/C is the new air temp sensor position.
Yeah, it needs a cleaning, it is my daily driver.
The top -4 AN fitting is my Methanol and the check valves for methanol.
The wire from the very top of the Pettit I/C is the new air temp sensor position.
Yeah, it needs a cleaning, it is my daily driver.
Last edited by Rote8; 10-16-2009 at 05:12 PM.
#6186
whines all the way home
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Towson/Baltimore, MD
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Here is the new bypass valve position, this way the vacuum side of the blower intake seems to seal better, under boost it seems the same as usual.
The top -4 AN fitting is my Methanol and the check valves for methanol.
The wire from the very top of the Pettit I/C is the new air temp sensor position.
Yeah, it needs a cleaning, it is my daily driver.
The top -4 AN fitting is my Methanol and the check valves for methanol.
The wire from the very top of the Pettit I/C is the new air temp sensor position.
Yeah, it needs a cleaning, it is my daily driver.
and did you paint your LIM in the engine bay or take it out,,,
#6187
Registered
The boost pushes the bypass valve piston towards the S/C intake vacuum side, instead of boost pressing the side of the piston to hold the piston shut against the boost.
I painted the LIM out of the engine bay, I also have a Pettit clutch.....
Last edited by Rote8; 09-27-2009 at 03:46 PM.
#6188
Rotary engine addict
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Guadeloupe (FWI)
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Pulleys for Water Pump and Alternator
hi
While my water pump pulley is out..I was look for some others & I found those 2 ones at fluidmotorsports : "Greddy Pulleys for Water Pump and Alternator"
do some of you guys have them ?
any change noticed ?
thanks
While my water pump pulley is out..I was look for some others & I found those 2 ones at fluidmotorsports : "Greddy Pulleys for Water Pump and Alternator"
do some of you guys have them ?
any change noticed ?
thanks
Last edited by JMKuco; 09-27-2009 at 03:05 PM. Reason: forgot to mention the brand
#6190
Registered
iTrader: (3)
ok guys--- i know i am a pain in the *** because i keep talking about our fuel pump /delivery system. But, hear me out.
You dont want to "discover" a fuel delivery problem while you are at 8K in 3nd gear --it may not be pretty.
I dont know if anyone else has done any tracking while running the big pulley setup, BUT I have. Even with the 09 pump in I am suspecting it cant keep up.
Manufacturers design the fuel system so that it can oversupply by 30%. That is basically the rule. Well we are way past that 30%.
Is youre car running well? Probably. A/F's look great and all that jazz. Well--dont feel so good.
Remember we are running with the fuel injectors at 100% duty cycle at times--if there is a dropage in voltage to the pump of only 1 volt---guess what--and it can happen so quick that your a/f gauge may never even read it, or it just gives a lean reading for a split second and you may think its just a hiccup, either way you are playing with blowing it.
I am convinced of it. I mean --how the hell can a oem system safely supply the engine when there is an increase of power by over 50%?
I saw it briefly at Road Atlanta (before my fuel fitting thing). It bogged--it just did not have the power I knew it was suppose to have.
After engine break in--i am getting the Kenne bell boost a pump--not only will it help the pump last longer, it also acts as a voltage regulator specially for the pump. Even if the alternator dies it will still provide the correct voltage. Think about it!
For rezzale.
OD
You dont want to "discover" a fuel delivery problem while you are at 8K in 3nd gear --it may not be pretty.
I dont know if anyone else has done any tracking while running the big pulley setup, BUT I have. Even with the 09 pump in I am suspecting it cant keep up.
Manufacturers design the fuel system so that it can oversupply by 30%. That is basically the rule. Well we are way past that 30%.
Is youre car running well? Probably. A/F's look great and all that jazz. Well--dont feel so good.
Remember we are running with the fuel injectors at 100% duty cycle at times--if there is a dropage in voltage to the pump of only 1 volt---guess what--and it can happen so quick that your a/f gauge may never even read it, or it just gives a lean reading for a split second and you may think its just a hiccup, either way you are playing with blowing it.
I am convinced of it. I mean --how the hell can a oem system safely supply the engine when there is an increase of power by over 50%?
I saw it briefly at Road Atlanta (before my fuel fitting thing). It bogged--it just did not have the power I knew it was suppose to have.
After engine break in--i am getting the Kenne bell boost a pump--not only will it help the pump last longer, it also acts as a voltage regulator specially for the pump. Even if the alternator dies it will still provide the correct voltage. Think about it!
For rezzale.
OD
#6191
Registered
After engine break in--i am getting the Kenne bell boost a pump--not only will it help the pump last longer, it also acts as a voltage regulator specially for the pump. Even if the alternator dies it will still provide the correct voltage. Think about it!
For rezzale.
OD
For rezzale.
OD
I fully agree about the fuel system sucking.
I am thinking of going further than changing the stock pump output.
I am actually thinking of replacing the saddle tank with two proper tanks and tee everything, or set an electronically switchable dual tank/reserve system.
#6194
Registered
If I build my fuel system for 600 HP, I will not lean out... EVER.
Last edited by Rote8; 09-27-2009 at 10:31 PM.
#6197
Rotary engine addict
Join Date: Jun 2008
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Guys !!
I just received My body kit
Hope I can mount it since the end of the month !!!!
Guess what I choose
I am a little bit disapointed by the bumper finition... I though I might have been beeter
It is not a replica but was kind of cheap (450$) insteed of my dreamed bumper...the Feed's !!! but 1300 box a bumper is a pain in the ***
I'll try to paint my all car with some mettalic aspect
I just received My body kit
Hope I can mount it since the end of the month !!!!
Guess what I choose
I am a little bit disapointed by the bumper finition... I though I might have been beeter
It is not a replica but was kind of cheap (450$) insteed of my dreamed bumper...the Feed's !!! but 1300 box a bumper is a pain in the ***
I'll try to paint my all car with some mettalic aspect
#6198
I had my car dino-ed after seven stock at a little get together put on by Jedi54 of the So. Cal Club. I figured that after all this time, money spent and insults over my 4 port AT I would go ahead and ether show the nay sayers right or wrong.
I do think that 258 is a very respectable HP figure for a 4 port. The Pettit s/c worked to perfection. My tuner even had a smile on his face (he rarely smiles).
I was kinda waiting for the graphs to come out to let everyone know but there has been a delay......somthing to do with software compatibility.
I do think that 258 is a very respectable HP figure for a 4 port. The Pettit s/c worked to perfection. My tuner even had a smile on his face (he rarely smiles).
I was kinda waiting for the graphs to come out to let everyone know but there has been a delay......somthing to do with software compatibility.