Pettit Super Charger Owners
03-04-2010, 03:29 PM
#6901
FP hasnt been tested yet!I will keep an eye out for that 09 trans sponsor for you. you should feel the difference.
3-4-5 is like a dirt bike.
and 6fh is a real overdrive--i am now getting 24-25 mpg on the interstate.tidbit of info---did you know that the centrificual forces at 9K versus 7K rpms is 1.7 times higher?
When you add all this up and you are driving 25-30 miles per session at higher speeds and subtained rpm's the heat really builds between the 7.5 K and 9K
Look at where your TQ curve crosses you hp out put on the dyno?
Really hope you can make it to RR--bring the family--lots of folks do. They will have a blast.
We will roll out the carpet for ya and the initiation wont be TOOOOOO bad
.OD
Last edited by olddragger; 03-04-2010 at 03:31 PM.
03-04-2010, 03:55 PM
#6902
OD . This is a point I've been ranting about for a while now . It's pretty obvious to the turbo guys that a reduced redline is a good idea because of the power dropoff after 7500 - so there is no real need to go any higher than about 8k.
However the SC power curve is linear so it does make sense to go to 9000 purely for best acceleration .
BUT : if you gear the SC so it reaches it's peak earlier (say 7500) then limit your redline you achieve the same thing without putting all that extra stress on the engine .....
However the SC power curve is linear so it does make sense to go to 9000 purely for best acceleration .
BUT : if you gear the SC so it reaches it's peak earlier (say 7500) then limit your redline you achieve the same thing without putting all that extra stress on the engine .....
03-05-2010, 01:17 AM
#6903
[QUOTE=marsredr100;3451269]Well got to run my first road course and I had a blast. Everything worked perfect except for the brakes. I got lots of fading cuz I’m running ceramic brake pads. That’s my only weak point in my brake system. I already have stainless steel braded brake lines and crosses drilled/slotted rotors. The other car owners were running Hawk HP Plus and reported no fading problems.
My R1R got better after the second lap and the car felt like riding on rails after the 5 lap. The track was 1.6 miles long and we started with 5 laps per session. Then we did 7 and later 10 for a total of over 50 laps or the equivalent of ¾ of a gas tank. I could it drive another session or so but I ran out of methanol (two gallons total) and the gas tank was reading below ¼ full.
Overall, the car ran flawlessly and everyone at the track was impressed. They liked the huge flames shooting out while downshifting. Day temps were in the low 60s and the engine coolant temp never got higher than 200F. The highest engine oil temp I noticed was 209F.
The video below is of my first 5 lap session. My camera batteries ran out of juice just after taking that video, duh! I was getting used to the track and figuring out how to enter and exit a wider apex turn (not like the once I’m used to on autocross). Also, I was able to pass the Miata and a couple of highly tuned (inside and out) N/A Hondas SI when we did the 7 and 10 lap session. However, I was not as aggressive as I wanted due to my brake fading issues. I could not run fast, brake hard and turn as you can hear and see just before the hairpin turn and the other three turns of the track.
Next road course is in May and that leaves me plenty of time to brake in a new set of Hawk HP Plus and a fresh batch of ATE Super Blue brake fluid.
wow,
after about 8 events at that place i only recognize about 25% of the course. it would be soooooo cool to have a place to run for just a day..
thanks for the video.. juan, as to my pms i guess i got the bad experience, you i think are on the cutting edge of good..
but little run off, you would love robling road!
you might ask denny about brake pads. hawk + will not do it..
beers
My R1R got better after the second lap and the car felt like riding on rails after the 5 lap. The track was 1.6 miles long and we started with 5 laps per session. Then we did 7 and later 10 for a total of over 50 laps or the equivalent of ¾ of a gas tank. I could it drive another session or so but I ran out of methanol (two gallons total) and the gas tank was reading below ¼ full.
Overall, the car ran flawlessly and everyone at the track was impressed. They liked the huge flames shooting out while downshifting. Day temps were in the low 60s and the engine coolant temp never got higher than 200F. The highest engine oil temp I noticed was 209F.
The video below is of my first 5 lap session. My camera batteries ran out of juice just after taking that video, duh! I was getting used to the track and figuring out how to enter and exit a wider apex turn (not like the once I’m used to on autocross). Also, I was able to pass the Miata and a couple of highly tuned (inside and out) N/A Hondas SI when we did the 7 and 10 lap session. However, I was not as aggressive as I wanted due to my brake fading issues. I could not run fast, brake hard and turn as you can hear and see just before the hairpin turn and the other three turns of the track.
Next road course is in May and that leaves me plenty of time to brake in a new set of Hawk HP Plus and a fresh batch of ATE Super Blue brake fluid.
wow,
after about 8 events at that place i only recognize about 25% of the course. it would be soooooo cool to have a place to run for just a day..
thanks for the video.. juan, as to my pms i guess i got the bad experience, you i think are on the cutting edge of good..
but little run off, you would love robling road!
you might ask denny about brake pads. hawk + will not do it..
beers
03-05-2010, 08:51 AM
#6904
True Scott.
I would love to have a daily run place myself.
Brettus --glad you can see the light Road Racing is not all about power anyway. Sure it helps
and there may be times ( to avoid a shift during a dive bomb move etc) that having that extra 1500 rpm could really help, but for hpde guys --it is not worth it. Not at all.
Gas milage goes down a lot, oil useage goes up a lot, and heat goes out the roof for the engine and trans.
Juan the hp+ is a better pad than you have now but once you start using ALL the braking the 8 can do --then they will not hold up on a RR track. Just like Scott has said.
The newer hawks are great, I have used carbotech's for years, and some guys are using the cobalts. The different in the braking (with r compounds on) between a street pad and a middle of the road race pad is like comparing the n/a engine to the fi one.
BIG DIFFERENCE> false teeth better be glued in good!
Step at a time dude.
I would love to have a daily run place myself.
Brettus --glad you can see the light
Road Racing is not all about power anyway. Sure it helpsand there may be times ( to avoid a shift during a dive bomb move etc) that having that extra 1500 rpm could really help, but for hpde guys --it is not worth it. Not at all.
Gas milage goes down a lot, oil useage goes up a lot, and heat goes out the roof for the engine and trans.
Juan the hp+ is a better pad than you have now but once you start using ALL the braking the 8 can do --then they will not hold up on a RR track. Just like Scott has said.
The newer hawks are great, I have used carbotech's for years, and some guys are using the cobalts. The different in the braking (with r compounds on) between a street pad and a middle of the road race pad is like comparing the n/a engine to the fi one.
BIG DIFFERENCE> false teeth better be glued in good!
Step at a time dude.
03-05-2010, 12:40 PM
#6905
The newer hawks are great, I have used carbotech's for years, and some guys are using the cobalts. The different in the braking (with r compounds on) between a street pad and a middle of the road race pad is like comparing the n/a engine to the fi one.
BIG DIFFERENCE> false teeth better be glued in good!
Step at a time dude.
BIG DIFFERENCE> false teeth better be glued in good!
Step at a time dude.
Couple HPDEs I've been to, got shotgun rides with Wankelbolt and Matt F (can't recall his username). I run Hawk Ceramics, Wankel uses HP+, Matt is a Carbotech fan. The difference between OEM and the Hawk Ceramics is noticeable, but riding with those two instructors in cars with "gentleman racer" compounds was eye-opening! They could easily go in another full brake marker, plus the sheer violence of the slowdown is astonishing.
First upgrade: supercharger
Second upgrade: Hawk DTC-series pads
Third upgrade: seats, harness bar and 5-point belts! :D
03-05-2010, 05:56 PM
#6906
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03-05-2010, 06:00 PM
#6907
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UPGRADING the IGNITION
did someone gave a try at the HKS Twin Power ?
usefull ? feel a difference?
how about changing the ignition coil ? I saw that some of you run with the BHR
same question as above : usefull ? feel a difference?
usefull ? feel a difference?
how about changing the ignition coil ? I saw that some of you run with the BHR
same question as above : usefull ? feel a difference?
Last edited by JMKuco; 03-05-2010 at 06:13 PM. Reason: replace in my question the MSD solution by the BHR
03-05-2010, 08:22 PM
#6908
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Either make yours like I did https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...59&postcount=1
You can make your own wire hardness or buy one from Race Roots or BHR.
03-05-2010, 08:27 PM
#6909
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Fluid Motorsports and BHR make adapters, the connector ends for the LS2 are cheap.
03-05-2010, 08:33 PM
#6910
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Look what the Fat Guy delivered today...wait a minute...it is the month of March...so who was the that fat dude 
Anyway, I got my Hawk HP + (f&r) pads and the ATE fluid. Ha!
Anyway, I got my Hawk HP + (f&r) pads and the ATE fluid. Ha!
03-06-2010, 11:57 AM
#6911
Nice!
Dont forget to clean the rotors well!
use 2K F grease for the pins. ceramic based
I just got my contour camera in and a 17 inch rearview mirror in--event is next w/e
hope i will have some vids.
49 cars on track the ever present bmw's porsche, mustangs, miata, supra, Ferrari, 370Z, viper and 2 GTR's
i am the only 8 in my class --can pass anywhere on the track with a point by.
back straight speed est 140mph slowing to about 80mph for a hairpin left
i am stoked!!!!
od
Dont forget to clean the rotors well!
use 2K F grease for the pins. ceramic based
I just got my contour camera in and a 17 inch rearview mirror in--event is next w/e
hope i will have some vids.
49 cars on track the ever present bmw's porsche, mustangs, miata, supra, Ferrari, 370Z, viper and 2 GTR's
i am the only 8 in my class --can pass anywhere on the track with a point by.
back straight speed est 140mph slowing to about 80mph for a hairpin left
i am stoked!!!!
od
03-06-2010, 05:28 PM
#6912
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clic here tot access to bhr ignition website
It's true that something "plug and play" is more interesting as the results looks to be the same.
did fluidmotorsports ran out of business ? i=their website is closed since a long time !
03-07-2010, 05:52 PM
#6915
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03-07-2010, 06:52 PM
#6916
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BTW, Fluid is now Race Roots. Just follow the instructions from my DIY MSD thread. Instead of making your own MSD coils wire hardness, just buy a premanufactured from BHR or Race Roots.
Also, you can make your own MSD Super Conductor 8.8 millimiter wires in order to complement the MSD coils.
03-07-2010, 06:58 PM
#6917
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Just finished installing my new rear Hawk HP + brake pads. Will do the front tomorrow. BTW...my ATE brake fluid bleeding TOOL (son) worked like a charm.
03-08-2010, 08:58 AM
#6919
"Tool" lol. I am sure he is looking forward to driving the beast too
ATE is good fluid. You can keep the remaining fluid left over by placing the entire can into a large zip lock bag, so no water contamination!
What type rotors are those?
For a high speed track you may not want to use a drilled rotor? The fronts get REAL hot(thats why we use the craminc based pin grease) and a drilled rotor can crack.
The backs are ok--they dont get nearly as hot.
Slotted ones are ok, although it does take away friction surface.
If you make your own ls ig coil set up wires--then DO NOT FORGET to get the correct boots and clips. Summit racing carries them. They are not expensive. Making wires is really easy to do--just take your time.
Making your own harness is a royal pain.
I took my yukons off and reinstalled oem and added the hks twin fire---no problems here. Its nice to have options.
OD
ATE is good fluid. You can keep the remaining fluid left over by placing the entire can into a large zip lock bag, so no water contamination!
What type rotors are those?
For a high speed track you may not want to use a drilled rotor? The fronts get REAL hot(thats why we use the craminc based pin grease) and a drilled rotor can crack.
The backs are ok--they dont get nearly as hot.
Slotted ones are ok, although it does take away friction surface.
If you make your own ls ig coil set up wires--then DO NOT FORGET to get the correct boots and clips. Summit racing carries them. They are not expensive. Making wires is really easy to do--just take your time.
Making your own harness is a royal pain.
I took my yukons off and reinstalled oem and added the hks twin fire---no problems here. Its nice to have options.
OD
03-08-2010, 06:15 PM
#6920
well today i hit a new personnel record!
WHile getting ready for my upcoming track event this w/e i decided to take it out and do a efi eval
?????!!!!!
MAF reading of 365.15 at 7.5 k and a load of 182
I am OK with this
OD
WHile getting ready for my upcoming track event this w/e i decided to take it out and do a efi eval
?????!!!!!
MAF reading of 365.15 at 7.5 k and a load of 182
I am OK with this
OD
Last edited by olddragger; 03-09-2010 at 08:03 AM.
03-08-2010, 07:08 PM
#6923
Just don't let the sliding surfaces get dry or they'll squeal you to death after a track event.
I have a set of EBC Yellows sitting here that I am gonna compare, but it's gonna be really hard to top the Hawks.
Are you on OE rotors?
03-08-2010, 07:10 PM
#6924
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"Tool" lol. I am sure he is looking forward to driving the beast too
ATE is good fluid. You can keep the remaining fluid left over by placing the entire can into a large zip lock bag, so no water contamination!
Got some leftover.......look like kool aid......if is good for my car....most be good for me too.
What type rotors are those?
Cquence F&R Crossed Drilled Brake Rotors...on the car for over two years.....a bunch of autox plus the road course and not a single crack.
For a high speed track you may not want to use a drilled rotor? The fronts get REAL hot(thats why we use the craminc based pin grease) and a drilled rotor can crack.
The backs are ok--they dont get nearly as hot.
Slotted ones are ok, although it does take away friction surface.
OD
ATE is good fluid. You can keep the remaining fluid left over by placing the entire can into a large zip lock bag, so no water contamination!
Got some leftover.......look like kool aid......if is good for my car....most be good for me too.
What type rotors are those?
Cquence F&R Crossed Drilled Brake Rotors...on the car for over two years.....a bunch of autox plus the road course and not a single crack.
For a high speed track you may not want to use a drilled rotor? The fronts get REAL hot(thats why we use the craminc based pin grease) and a drilled rotor can crack.
The backs are ok--they dont get nearly as hot.
Slotted ones are ok, although it does take away friction surface.
OD