Pettit Super Charger Owners
#7131
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
Sorry to hear that JSK---that sucks.
You can use the 09 short block you know?
No argument here that turbo offers more flexibility in a rd racing situation, every system has benefits and negatives of their own.
Dont forget to add the lotus (na version) and the Porsche 993 (non turbo!) thats in TTB
OD
You can use the 09 short block you know?
No argument here that turbo offers more flexibility in a rd racing situation, every system has benefits and negatives of their own.
Dont forget to add the lotus (na version) and the Porsche 993 (non turbo!) thats in TTB
OD
beers
#7132
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#7133
Rotary Obsession
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Waynesboro Virginia (aka no where special)
Posts: 37
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hey i had a quick question. does anyone know the item number/part number for the spark plug wires wth the supercharger? I have a missfire and need to replace them.
#7136
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#7137
Rotary Obsession
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Waynesboro Virginia (aka no where special)
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hey real quick with the supercharger, what wires (dealing with the ignition coils) go to which plug.
i may not be askn this correctly. its like which wires (going to the ignition coil) blue, green, yellow, ect. goes to which spark plug LL RL LT RT . i hope i asked that correctly...
i may not be askn this correctly. its like which wires (going to the ignition coil) blue, green, yellow, ect. goes to which spark plug LL RL LT RT . i hope i asked that correctly...
#7138
Registered
hey real quick with the supercharger, what wires (dealing with the ignition coils) go to which plug.
i may not be askn this correctly. its like which wires (going to the ignition coil) blue, green, yellow, ect. goes to which spark plug LL RL LT RT . i hope i asked that correctly...
i may not be askn this correctly. its like which wires (going to the ignition coil) blue, green, yellow, ect. goes to which spark plug LL RL LT RT . i hope i asked that correctly...
Google is your friend:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/05_mazda_rx8_firing_order
I put it there so I would not lose it.
I have listed the coils in order from the front of the car to back in the stock coil location.
Coil input colors can confirm this.
1) Green coil input wire is Leading plug front rotor (bottom-front spark plug)
2) White coil input wire is trailing plug front rotor (top-front spark plug)
3) Yellow coil input wire is Leading plug rear rotor (bottom-rear spark plug)
4) Blue coil input wire is trailing plug rear rotor (top-rear spark plug)
#7140
Registered
#7142
Londons Yellow Peril
#7149
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
What are the chances that all three seals are completely gone?
And even if so, wouldn't the transducer still have some feedback... even if its minimal?
I just recently had problems with my compression tester reading all 0s (the waveform had no "spikes") and it was determined to be a defective transducer.
I'm not an expert with compression tests and have only done a few myself, but I just find it difficult to believe that you would not receive any feedback whatsoever on all three faces.
Would't the rotor itself spinning still be enough to produce some sort of pressure?
Maybe someone can shed some light on my curiosity...
And even if so, wouldn't the transducer still have some feedback... even if its minimal?
I just recently had problems with my compression tester reading all 0s (the waveform had no "spikes") and it was determined to be a defective transducer.
I'm not an expert with compression tests and have only done a few myself, but I just find it difficult to believe that you would not receive any feedback whatsoever on all three faces.
Would't the rotor itself spinning still be enough to produce some sort of pressure?
Maybe someone can shed some light on my curiosity...
#7150
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
If it has pressure on one rotor..and none on the other..I doubt the transducer is suddenly wrong.
You could confirm that by trying it again on the rotor with readings..and see if it still gives you results
If it ate one seal it would have low compression on the 2 affected faces...2 seals...should get a little bit of pressure...but all three usually results in dick all at starter motor RPM's
Funny thing you could likely pull start it and drive it to the shop....as long as you kept the RPM's above about 2500 it will run ( Drove on 50km on a zero rear rotor)...You just could screw up the bits even more than they already are......but likely not an issue as the worst is done
You could confirm that by trying it again on the rotor with readings..and see if it still gives you results
If it ate one seal it would have low compression on the 2 affected faces...2 seals...should get a little bit of pressure...but all three usually results in dick all at starter motor RPM's
Funny thing you could likely pull start it and drive it to the shop....as long as you kept the RPM's above about 2500 it will run ( Drove on 50km on a zero rear rotor)...You just could screw up the bits even more than they already are......but likely not an issue as the worst is done