Pettit Super Charger Owners
#7501
Illudium Q-36 Space Moderator
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A black radiator will shed heat faster than a shiny one, all other things equal - "black body effect". I don't know if it will be significant enough to notice, but it won't hurt anything but your wallet.
Anodizing? Hadn't thought of that. Do you have a shop that can do that? I have some large parts I'd like anodized instead of just painted, and I don't want to put them through the head cycle to cerakote them.
Anodizing? Hadn't thought of that. Do you have a shop that can do that? I have some large parts I'd like anodized instead of just painted, and I don't want to put them through the head cycle to cerakote them.
Originally Posted by Garrett Turbo's FAQ
I want my car to remain a sleeper/stealth. Can I paint or anodize my intercooler so it is not easily visible?
Yes! It is not uncommon at all for an intercooler and endtanks to be anodized black to keep attention away from the car and help it maintain a sleeper appearance. A very light coat of paint on the core and endtanks is also another option, usually much cheaper and easier than anodizing, with a negligible performance loss.
Yes! It is not uncommon at all for an intercooler and endtanks to be anodized black to keep attention away from the car and help it maintain a sleeper appearance. A very light coat of paint on the core and endtanks is also another option, usually much cheaper and easier than anodizing, with a negligible performance loss.
Seems interesting...I just painted mine - LOL
#7502
Having installed both the GReddy and Pettit kits, and all the related ancillaries and hardware with their kits as delivered, I can tell you that neither installation is easier than the other one. With the turbo kit, you are under the car. With the s/c kit you are bending over the fenders all day. Both kits increase the underhood temps, both kits have intake inlets located under the hood, and the main difference with heat-management may simply be that most people use the OEM exhaust manifold on their s/c installations. Those of you with aftermarket headers and header-wrap installed on your s/c kits probably have the same underhood heat issues as the turbo guys who use headerwrap on their manifolds, as well.
In my experience, there is no "superior" way to stuff more air in your Renesis. The difference, as I have said for a LONG time (and has been mentioned ad nauseaum around here) is the delivery of the torque curve across the RPM band.
Some people want immediate torque delivery down low and some want a factory-like delivery of the torque curve. To each their own.
Basically, turbo systems make their power via engine load while superchargers make their power via engine RPM. When I receive calls/e-mails on this matter, this point is where I start the discussion and people tell me that I have helped them to better understand the ramifications of each method of F/I.
As for the intake temp delta when using the "super-duper CAI" I did for both Phil and Dondo, you'd hafta ask Phil because I felt there was nothing to lose in doing it the way I did it and only Phil would know the specific numbers involved. He probably didn't bother to look, though, because he is always yelling at me about something.......
In my experience, there is no "superior" way to stuff more air in your Renesis. The difference, as I have said for a LONG time (and has been mentioned ad nauseaum around here) is the delivery of the torque curve across the RPM band.
Some people want immediate torque delivery down low and some want a factory-like delivery of the torque curve. To each their own.
Basically, turbo systems make their power via engine load while superchargers make their power via engine RPM. When I receive calls/e-mails on this matter, this point is where I start the discussion and people tell me that I have helped them to better understand the ramifications of each method of F/I.
As for the intake temp delta when using the "super-duper CAI" I did for both Phil and Dondo, you'd hafta ask Phil because I felt there was nothing to lose in doing it the way I did it and only Phil would know the specific numbers involved. He probably didn't bother to look, though, because he is always yelling at me about something.......
I would agree with you. My intake air temps seem to be close to yours.
I have noticed that when runing longer distances it seem to creep up. I can't explain why the exterior/intake air seem to get higher as I drive but for some reason it does.
#7505
Well...it sort of says "Weiand" on the front of the fake blower...so....
now if you could tell me where I could get one of those red ***** to mount on my shifter to activate my blower, now that would get you some love.
Maybe BHR has this in the works...
now if you could tell me where I could get one of those red ***** to mount on my shifter to activate my blower, now that would get you some love.
Maybe BHR has this in the works...
#7508
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To receive mazdamotorsports pricing follow their web instructions, which is basically showing proof of racing your RX8 at a minimum of two events per year (AutoX, Road Racing, Drag Racing). It is real easy and it doesn't take much to receive your membership once you submit the proof documents. It is well worth it if you are planning to keep your RX8 for a while. Sorry, but one of their rules is that no one can buy parts for other Mazda owners.
BTW the part number is F151-50-070D
#7510
I divide by zero
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It is about $350 for the average owner and the price I got from mazdamotorsports much less. It will take about 2 months since is coming directly from Japan. Pix will follow before and after install for sure.
To receive mazdamotorsports pricing follow their web instructions, which is basically showing proof of racing your RX8 at a minimum of two events per year (AutoX, Road Racing, Drag Racing). It is real easy and it doesn't take much to receive your membership once you submit the proof documents. It is well worth it if you are planning to keep your RX8 for a while. Sorry, but one of their rules is that no one can buy parts for other Mazda owners.
BTW the part number is F151-50-070D
To receive mazdamotorsports pricing follow their web instructions, which is basically showing proof of racing your RX8 at a minimum of two events per year (AutoX, Road Racing, Drag Racing). It is real easy and it doesn't take much to receive your membership once you submit the proof documents. It is well worth it if you are planning to keep your RX8 for a while. Sorry, but one of their rules is that no one can buy parts for other Mazda owners.
BTW the part number is F151-50-070D
Two events is easy enough, my wife would love it if I only went to the track twice a year lol. She has actually gotten a break this past year while I tinkered on the car.....but I'm dying to pull up to a tree again
#7511
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crash bar mod is a good thought.
isnt that bar there so the car can survive with less damage from a 35 mph crash?
That beam is hollow and it can be cut easily . it actually can be cut at such an angle that once you carve out a few diamonds of the grill then airflow can be directed to the air filter area. Your surface temps on your air filter will not get over 10--15F difference than ambient. Not the best way of doing things but it does work.
plus you can get a little engine bay cooling also.
you can also use the tie down bolt hole to vent the engine bay a little if you are willing to put a few holes in the frame
ray you going to give use a true tow ring?
OD
isnt that bar there so the car can survive with less damage from a 35 mph crash?
That beam is hollow and it can be cut easily . it actually can be cut at such an angle that once you carve out a few diamonds of the grill then airflow can be directed to the air filter area. Your surface temps on your air filter will not get over 10--15F difference than ambient. Not the best way of doing things but it does work.
plus you can get a little engine bay cooling also.
you can also use the tie down bolt hole to vent the engine bay a little if you are willing to put a few holes in the frame
ray you going to give use a true tow ring?
OD
#7515
It lays on the garage floor and you drive your car across, like ramps, it until its underneath the car, between the wheels. It comes with four 2" thick hard rubber blocks that are placed at the lift points for cushioning (that's why I used the boards - without them, the car was 1/4" too low to get the blocks in place at the pinch welds). The unit on the left is an electric hydraulic pump, 110V, and the black reservoir holds 3 gallons of hydraulic oil. Press a button and the ram raises the scissor mechanism. It only takes about 15 seconds to raise to this position, 2 feet up, plenty of room to get to the exhaust, etc. There are three ratchet positions that the lift can lock into so bleed-down doesn't let the car slowly lower. I'm still planning on using jack stands at the corners when I'm under it.
#7516
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nice Z----bet that makes things a LOT easier.
I have been looking at getting the EZ lift myself. X fingers.
Ray/Phil---I KNOW yall already figured this out and it is OK , but I have to ask. The super duper cai with the special itty bitty K&N filter? That filter has enough flow rate? Just have to clean it more often?
Since it is outside the engine bay --wouldnt you advise a dust cover for it?
OD
I have been looking at getting the EZ lift myself. X fingers.
Ray/Phil---I KNOW yall already figured this out and it is OK , but I have to ask. The super duper cai with the special itty bitty K&N filter? That filter has enough flow rate? Just have to clean it more often?
Since it is outside the engine bay --wouldnt you advise a dust cover for it?
OD
#7519
#7520
Tailgaters beware
I had a Supra that I custom built a CAI with an HKS filter that was positioned in the front bumper. It worked great on a nice day, but when it rained, quite a few times I felt the motor start to bog. I checked the filter a couple times and it was pretty moist.
I suppose if it wasn't my daily driver it would have been fine.
Last edited by Rocketman1976; 07-31-2010 at 02:03 PM.
#7521
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that is what i presently have.
I have enlarged the intake area a lot, i cut my front bumper support beam to redirect air (think ski slope) from the grill area after i cut out some of those diamonds .
With this in place the surface on the air filter is approx 10-15 F above ambient.
Of coarse the air filter will still draw in hotter air around it sometimes.
If I boxed it--its going to heat soak. The w/m coolant tank is right beside it . Other logistics factor in also.
I am almost to the point of putting the 350Z bumper scoop on.
OD
I have enlarged the intake area a lot, i cut my front bumper support beam to redirect air (think ski slope) from the grill area after i cut out some of those diamonds .
With this in place the surface on the air filter is approx 10-15 F above ambient.
Of coarse the air filter will still draw in hotter air around it sometimes.
If I boxed it--its going to heat soak. The w/m coolant tank is right beside it . Other logistics factor in also.
I am almost to the point of putting the 350Z bumper scoop on.
OD
#7524
Tailgaters beware
Or...
You could probably do transmissions with this one...
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Pr...Code=TP-XL-9BP
I never would have thought these devices were this reasonably priced.
Last edited by Rocketman1976; 08-01-2010 at 09:09 AM.
#7525
U-Stink-But-I-♥-U
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THIS DOES NOT MEAN THAT BLACK THINGS ARE COOLER. IN NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM!! THE "BLACK" IN "BLACK-BODY RADIATION" IS BLACK BECAUSE IT IS NOT REAL, but ideal. It is absolutely NOT a rattle-can painted, ghetto-stealth fronting, big-*** IC.
Sure, there are ways to coat things that could lead to more thermal emission, and those coatings might be black, but it has nothing to do with the "black body effect."
[/edjumacative rant]