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Old 07-26-2010, 05:55 AM
  #7501  
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Originally Posted by zenrx8
A black radiator will shed heat faster than a shiny one, all other things equal - "black body effect". I don't know if it will be significant enough to notice, but it won't hurt anything but your wallet.

Anodizing? Hadn't thought of that. Do you have a shop that can do that? I have some large parts I'd like anodized instead of just painted, and I don't want to put them through the head cycle to cerakote them.
Originally Posted by Garrett Turbo's FAQ
I want my car to remain a sleeper/stealth. Can I paint or anodize my intercooler so it is not easily visible?
Yes! It is not uncommon at all for an intercooler and endtanks to be anodized black to keep attention away from the car and help it maintain a sleeper appearance. A very light coat of paint on the core and endtanks is also another option, usually much cheaper and easier than anodizing, with a negligible performance loss.
http://www.bshspeedshop.com/store/bs...tercooler.html

Seems interesting...I just painted mine - LOL
Old 07-26-2010, 07:57 AM
  #7502  
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Having installed both the GReddy and Pettit kits, and all the related ancillaries and hardware with their kits as delivered, I can tell you that neither installation is easier than the other one. With the turbo kit, you are under the car. With the s/c kit you are bending over the fenders all day. Both kits increase the underhood temps, both kits have intake inlets located under the hood, and the main difference with heat-management may simply be that most people use the OEM exhaust manifold on their s/c installations. Those of you with aftermarket headers and header-wrap installed on your s/c kits probably have the same underhood heat issues as the turbo guys who use headerwrap on their manifolds, as well.

In my experience, there is no "superior" way to stuff more air in your Renesis. The difference, as I have said for a LONG time (and has been mentioned ad nauseaum around here) is the delivery of the torque curve across the RPM band.

Some people want immediate torque delivery down low and some want a factory-like delivery of the torque curve. To each their own.

Basically, turbo systems make their power via engine load while superchargers make their power via engine RPM. When I receive calls/e-mails on this matter, this point is where I start the discussion and people tell me that I have helped them to better understand the ramifications of each method of F/I.

As for the intake temp delta when using the "super-duper CAI" I did for both Phil and Dondo, you'd hafta ask Phil because I felt there was nothing to lose in doing it the way I did it and only Phil would know the specific numbers involved. He probably didn't bother to look, though, because he is always yelling at me about something.......
You deserve being yelled at as your always too busy to talk these days. Due to the mix in temps that are available in Vegas and under the hood the best way is to say that I am getting near ambient air temps on my intake air.

Originally Posted by dondo
mine are now 3-7 degrees over ambient
I would agree with you. My intake air temps seem to be close to yours.

I have noticed that when runing longer distances it seem to creep up. I can't explain why the exterior/intake air seem to get higher as I drive but for some reason it does.
Old 07-26-2010, 02:22 PM
  #7503  
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what? no points for knowing the SC in the mad max car?
Old 07-26-2010, 04:34 PM
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you are already beyond awesome zoom!
points are beneath you.
Old 07-26-2010, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by zoom44
what? no points for knowing the SC in the mad max car?
Well...it sort of says "Weiand" on the front of the fake blower...so....



now if you could tell me where I could get one of those red ***** to mount on my shifter to activate my blower, now that would get you some love.

Maybe BHR has this in the works...
Old 07-26-2010, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rotarenvy
US


.au


the US one is flat where as the .au one is pressed.
Got the crash bar AU part number from ratarenvy

Called mazdamotorsports and it is now on order, sweet
Old 07-26-2010, 08:27 PM
  #7507  
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^ Nice. Mind me asking how much it cost ya?
Also any chance you could take side by side pics of them once you have it?
Old 07-26-2010, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mawnee
^ Nice. Mind me asking how much it cost ya?
Also any chance you could take side by side pics of them once you have it?
It is about $350 for the average owner and the price I got from mazdamotorsports much less. It will take about 2 months since is coming directly from Japan. Pix will follow before and after install for sure.

To receive mazdamotorsports pricing follow their web instructions, which is basically showing proof of racing your RX8 at a minimum of two events per year (AutoX, Road Racing, Drag Racing). It is real easy and it doesn't take much to receive your membership once you submit the proof documents. It is well worth it if you are planning to keep your RX8 for a while. Sorry, but one of their rules is that no one can buy parts for other Mazda owners.

BTW the part number is F151-50-070D
Old 07-26-2010, 08:58 PM
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seems like a good idea - never realised you guys had such a restrictive crash bar . The stock grill can flow a lot more air once the diamonds are cut out with that bar in place .
Old 07-26-2010, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by marsredr100
It is about $350 for the average owner and the price I got from mazdamotorsports much less. It will take about 2 months since is coming directly from Japan. Pix will follow before and after install for sure.

To receive mazdamotorsports pricing follow their web instructions, which is basically showing proof of racing your RX8 at a minimum of two events per year (AutoX, Road Racing, Drag Racing). It is real easy and it doesn't take much to receive your membership once you submit the proof documents. It is well worth it if you are planning to keep your RX8 for a while. Sorry, but one of their rules is that no one can buy parts for other Mazda owners.

BTW the part number is F151-50-070D
Thanks for the info!

Two events is easy enough, my wife would love it if I only went to the track twice a year lol. She has actually gotten a break this past year while I tinkered on the car.....but I'm dying to pull up to a tree again
Old 07-28-2010, 07:02 PM
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crash bar mod is a good thought.
isnt that bar there so the car can survive with less damage from a 35 mph crash?
That beam is hollow and it can be cut easily . it actually can be cut at such an angle that once you carve out a few diamonds of the grill then airflow can be directed to the air filter area. Your surface temps on your air filter will not get over 10--15F difference than ambient. Not the best way of doing things but it does work.
plus you can get a little engine bay cooling also.
you can also use the tie down bolt hole to vent the engine bay a little if you are willing to put a few holes in the frame
ray you going to give use a true tow ring?
OD
Old 07-30-2010, 07:09 PM
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Forget Slammed...

...lift is now in. This thing is great!

Old 07-30-2010, 11:07 PM
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ooh cool. how does that work? you still need to drive onto blocks?
Old 07-31-2010, 04:01 AM
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you are kidding me! wow!
Old 07-31-2010, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dondo
ooh cool. how does that work? you still need to drive onto blocks?
It lays on the garage floor and you drive your car across, like ramps, it until its underneath the car, between the wheels. It comes with four 2" thick hard rubber blocks that are placed at the lift points for cushioning (that's why I used the boards - without them, the car was 1/4" too low to get the blocks in place at the pinch welds). The unit on the left is an electric hydraulic pump, 110V, and the black reservoir holds 3 gallons of hydraulic oil. Press a button and the ram raises the scissor mechanism. It only takes about 15 seconds to raise to this position, 2 feet up, plenty of room to get to the exhaust, etc. There are three ratchet positions that the lift can lock into so bleed-down doesn't let the car slowly lower. I'm still planning on using jack stands at the corners when I'm under it.
Old 07-31-2010, 09:20 AM
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nice Z----bet that makes things a LOT easier.
I have been looking at getting the EZ lift myself. X fingers.

Ray/Phil---I KNOW yall already figured this out and it is OK , but I have to ask. The super duper cai with the special itty bitty K&N filter? That filter has enough flow rate? Just have to clean it more often?
Since it is outside the engine bay --wouldnt you advise a dust cover for it?
OD
Old 07-31-2010, 11:28 AM
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Denny, instead of extending the CAI out in front of the ingine bay, what about enclosing the filter and enlarging the opening for air intake?
Old 07-31-2010, 11:38 AM
  #7518  
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Originally Posted by zenrx8
...lift is now in. This thing is great!

Thats soo nice! i want to really look into that since i have my car in a single car garage...where did you purchase yours?
Old 07-31-2010, 11:44 AM
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Atlas LR 06P Portable Low Rise Scissor Lift

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/At.../atpk-lr06.htm
Old 07-31-2010, 01:58 PM
  #7520  
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Originally Posted by zenrx8
Denny, instead of extending the CAI out in front of the ingine bay, what about enclosing the filter and enlarging the opening for air intake?
I like that idea and I'm going to make a setup like that when I go FI.

I had a Supra that I custom built a CAI with an HKS filter that was positioned in the front bumper. It worked great on a nice day, but when it rained, quite a few times I felt the motor start to bog. I checked the filter a couple times and it was pretty moist.

I suppose if it wasn't my daily driver it would have been fine.

Last edited by Rocketman1976; 07-31-2010 at 02:03 PM.
Old 07-31-2010, 05:16 PM
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that is what i presently have.
I have enlarged the intake area a lot, i cut my front bumper support beam to redirect air (think ski slope) from the grill area after i cut out some of those diamonds .
With this in place the surface on the air filter is approx 10-15 F above ambient.
Of coarse the air filter will still draw in hotter air around it sometimes.
If I boxed it--its going to heat soak. The w/m coolant tank is right beside it . Other logistics factor in also.
I am almost to the point of putting the 350Z bumper scoop on.
OD
Old 07-31-2010, 07:34 PM
  #7522  
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price is not too bad, any chance of seeing any pictures of how much area is open on the 8 once its mounted? it doesnt look like a transmission job can be done with that in place...also is it bolted to the floor?
Old 08-01-2010, 01:24 AM
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^ yep. that's what i wanna know too.
Old 08-01-2010, 08:11 AM
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It kind of looks like you might be able to drop a tranny using it. If it is possible to do so, you could put the car on it backwards where the hydraulic arm was toward the rear of the car.

Or...

You could probably do transmissions with this one...

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Pr...Code=TP-XL-9BP

I never would have thought these devices were this reasonably priced.

Last edited by Rocketman1976; 08-01-2010 at 09:09 AM.
Old 08-01-2010, 09:05 AM
  #7525  
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Originally Posted by zenrx8
A black radiator will shed heat faster than a shiny one, all other things equal - "black body effect".
That is a myth most recently and successfully perpetuated by Jeff Goldblum on "Jurassic Park." The "Black" in "Black-body radiation" has nothing to do with paint but describes an ideal "thing" that reflects no light, absorbs it all, then emits this energy as light without doing any other work to generate a specific spectrum of light that is temperature dependent. When it is cold, it would be perfectly black. As it warms up, the spectrum has characteristics that are important in theoretical ways.

THIS DOES NOT MEAN THAT BLACK THINGS ARE COOLER. IN NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM!! THE "BLACK" IN "BLACK-BODY RADIATION" IS BLACK BECAUSE IT IS NOT REAL, but ideal. It is absolutely NOT a rattle-can painted, ghetto-stealth fronting, big-*** IC.

Sure, there are ways to coat things that could lead to more thermal emission, and those coatings might be black, but it has nothing to do with the "black body effect."

[/edjumacative rant]


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