Pettit Super Charger Owners
#8228
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Ray---plugs were in the engine. The trailing plugs fire during cranking---positive about it on my car. I can video this little backyard test if yall want.
Juan---unless there is someone else with nice ***** doing the patdown--i will decline. I will send a PM tonight to ya--ok?
Juan---unless there is someone else with nice ***** doing the patdown--i will decline. I will send a PM tonight to ya--ok?
#8230
Registered
iTrader: (3)
hey that looks like one of the guys in our club----damn!
Juan just mount a larger 2nd rad ( 21x7?) in sort of a v mount thing. the top part of the 2nd would mount to the bottom radiator mounts--making it about 4 inches off the bottom of the pan. Let the bottom of the 2nd rest on the pan--without a mount---you dont need to mount the bottom part really at this type of angle. the 2nd's hoses and the top mounts will whole it in place.
Think about how that may work better....
DO NOT BUY FROM MR MAZDA7--HE SOLD A SHORTBLOCK OUT FROM UNDER ME. AFTER THE PRICE WAS AGREED AND THE MONEY WAS BEING DEPOSITED INTO PAYPAL HE SENT A MESSAGE HE SOLD IT TO SOMEONE ELSE. HE OFFERED ME ANOTHER MOTOR BUT I HAD ALREADY CHECKED THE VIN NUMBER ON THE ONE WE HAD AGREED ON.DONT TRUST HIM AT ALL.
od
Juan just mount a larger 2nd rad ( 21x7?) in sort of a v mount thing. the top part of the 2nd would mount to the bottom radiator mounts--making it about 4 inches off the bottom of the pan. Let the bottom of the 2nd rest on the pan--without a mount---you dont need to mount the bottom part really at this type of angle. the 2nd's hoses and the top mounts will whole it in place.
Think about how that may work better....
DO NOT BUY FROM MR MAZDA7--HE SOLD A SHORTBLOCK OUT FROM UNDER ME. AFTER THE PRICE WAS AGREED AND THE MONEY WAS BEING DEPOSITED INTO PAYPAL HE SENT A MESSAGE HE SOLD IT TO SOMEONE ELSE. HE OFFERED ME ANOTHER MOTOR BUT I HAD ALREADY CHECKED THE VIN NUMBER ON THE ONE WE HAD AGREED ON.DONT TRUST HIM AT ALL.
od
#8232
As for your engine debacle on E-Bay; that exact same M.O. sounds familiar to a former member of this forum.
#8233
hey that looks like one of the guys in our club----damn!
Juan just mount a larger 2nd rad ( 21x7?) in sort of a v mount thing. the top part of the 2nd would mount to the bottom radiator mounts--making it about 4 inches off the bottom of the pan. Let the bottom of the 2nd rest on the pan--without a mount---you dont need to mount the bottom part really at this type of angle. the 2nd's hoses and the top mounts will whole it in place.
Think about how that may work better....
DO NOT BUY FROM MR MAZDA7--HE SOLD A SHORTBLOCK OUT FROM UNDER ME. AFTER THE PRICE WAS AGREED AND THE MONEY WAS BEING DEPOSITED INTO PAYPAL HE SENT A MESSAGE HE SOLD IT TO SOMEONE ELSE. HE OFFERED ME ANOTHER MOTOR BUT I HAD ALREADY CHECKED THE VIN NUMBER ON THE ONE WE HAD AGREED ON.DONT TRUST HIM AT ALL.
od
Juan just mount a larger 2nd rad ( 21x7?) in sort of a v mount thing. the top part of the 2nd would mount to the bottom radiator mounts--making it about 4 inches off the bottom of the pan. Let the bottom of the 2nd rest on the pan--without a mount---you dont need to mount the bottom part really at this type of angle. the 2nd's hoses and the top mounts will whole it in place.
Think about how that may work better....
DO NOT BUY FROM MR MAZDA7--HE SOLD A SHORTBLOCK OUT FROM UNDER ME. AFTER THE PRICE WAS AGREED AND THE MONEY WAS BEING DEPOSITED INTO PAYPAL HE SENT A MESSAGE HE SOLD IT TO SOMEONE ELSE. HE OFFERED ME ANOTHER MOTOR BUT I HAD ALREADY CHECKED THE VIN NUMBER ON THE ONE WE HAD AGREED ON.DONT TRUST HIM AT ALL.
od
#8234
Registered
iTrader: (3)
live and learn---already have sourced another. Hopefully this deal will go thru--i am really in no hurry. I will take my time and do some cosmetic things I have been wanting to do too.
I have decided to dial back to the 7psi pulley and to use my ls2 coils on the factory dwell and a smaller plug gap for now. I just couldnt believe how weak the damn sparks were.
Hey Juan --you still have those blue injectors??
I will trade you a nursing back rub for them??
OD
I have decided to dial back to the 7psi pulley and to use my ls2 coils on the factory dwell and a smaller plug gap for now. I just couldnt believe how weak the damn sparks were.
Hey Juan --you still have those blue injectors??
I will trade you a nursing back rub for them??
OD
#8235
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Sorry about your engine OD. As far as whether to keep the 8 or not - the rational alternative (a mistress), is likely to be both more costly and unreliable.
As to what happened - speculation is free right? I have a lot of experience with high-voltage, high-power systems place right next to, or connected with very sensitive computer-like electronics. Problems abound as you can imagine. For example, we have low-level electronics controlled over ethernet that drive an 23 MHz RF system at 140,000 V output and ~ 1 megawatt of power. Unless handled carefully, an "event" (spark) can send a burst of reflected power backwards into the low-level stuff and result in some impressive damage. Relavence? Is this so different than an ECU-controlled auto ignition system? The high voltage "signal" to the spark plug generates a spark, which generates a signal running backwards into the ignition system. The factory engineers of course design the system to minimize this "reflected power". The little capacitor mounted under the coils may serve a larger function than to just keep noise out of the radio - it may serve to keep power generated by the spark itself from coming into the ECU. A hint this is true is given by MM himself saying that taking it out of the system results in misfires. It seem you've changed a lot of ignition related stuff. That, and the circumstances of your failure (little boost) kinda hints too that ignition was the primary culprit here. Consider too statements like this (stolen from a Volvo forum):
"One cause for ECU failure is due to excessively high stray high voltage levels within the engine compartment or by unusual signals being seen by the ECU`s sensor inputs. If this situation occurs, then it is strongly recommended to replace the high voltage system with new genuine parts (i.e spark plug leads, distributor cap, rotor, coil) and the main engine to body and battery grounds are renewed before fitting a replacement engine management ECU. [Editor] Electrical welding on the body or exhaust can cause these stray currents and result in an ECU failure. Disconnect engine and SRS computers before doing any electrical welding on the car. Tell shop personnel (especially muffler shops) to do the same if they work on your car. "
A friend of my had an ECU failure likely caused by not replacing his sparkplugs for 120k miles. While the car still ran fine up to the point of failure, the electrodes were worn away. The voltage of a spark "signal" increases to the point that there is a voltage breakdown over the sparkplug electrodes and it "fires". The worn plugs had a much larger gap, causing them to fire at a higher-than-designed for voltage, causing a higher-than-designed for "reflection" back into the low-voltage parts of the system, eventually frying the ECU. Back in the day, when transistorized ignitions were first coming out, we were warned not to ever run the old school test of pulling off a sparkplug wire, holding it a distance from the plug, and watching it jump to the plug - for just this reason, it was known to damage the rest of the ignition circuits. (It remains a bad idea to crank the engine with the spark plugs out and ungrounded.)
It's also possible for an "out of balance" ignition to cause problems a some later time. How? Beside the visible filter capacitor, there are also caps in the ECU itself. If they are overloaded with reflected power or HF noise, they may get too hot and fail over time. (This was a problem with even factory systems in the 80s and 90s).
Upgrading power in any engine, but particularly the Renny since is starts out in a high-tune state, starts to remove the built-in tolerance that engine has for "events". Who knows, maybe a load of crappy gas was just enough to send yours over the edge. Beats me, but perhaps a few thoughts coming from left-field viewpoint might be helpful.
As to what happened - speculation is free right? I have a lot of experience with high-voltage, high-power systems place right next to, or connected with very sensitive computer-like electronics. Problems abound as you can imagine. For example, we have low-level electronics controlled over ethernet that drive an 23 MHz RF system at 140,000 V output and ~ 1 megawatt of power. Unless handled carefully, an "event" (spark) can send a burst of reflected power backwards into the low-level stuff and result in some impressive damage. Relavence? Is this so different than an ECU-controlled auto ignition system? The high voltage "signal" to the spark plug generates a spark, which generates a signal running backwards into the ignition system. The factory engineers of course design the system to minimize this "reflected power". The little capacitor mounted under the coils may serve a larger function than to just keep noise out of the radio - it may serve to keep power generated by the spark itself from coming into the ECU. A hint this is true is given by MM himself saying that taking it out of the system results in misfires. It seem you've changed a lot of ignition related stuff. That, and the circumstances of your failure (little boost) kinda hints too that ignition was the primary culprit here. Consider too statements like this (stolen from a Volvo forum):
"One cause for ECU failure is due to excessively high stray high voltage levels within the engine compartment or by unusual signals being seen by the ECU`s sensor inputs. If this situation occurs, then it is strongly recommended to replace the high voltage system with new genuine parts (i.e spark plug leads, distributor cap, rotor, coil) and the main engine to body and battery grounds are renewed before fitting a replacement engine management ECU. [Editor] Electrical welding on the body or exhaust can cause these stray currents and result in an ECU failure. Disconnect engine and SRS computers before doing any electrical welding on the car. Tell shop personnel (especially muffler shops) to do the same if they work on your car. "
A friend of my had an ECU failure likely caused by not replacing his sparkplugs for 120k miles. While the car still ran fine up to the point of failure, the electrodes were worn away. The voltage of a spark "signal" increases to the point that there is a voltage breakdown over the sparkplug electrodes and it "fires". The worn plugs had a much larger gap, causing them to fire at a higher-than-designed for voltage, causing a higher-than-designed for "reflection" back into the low-voltage parts of the system, eventually frying the ECU. Back in the day, when transistorized ignitions were first coming out, we were warned not to ever run the old school test of pulling off a sparkplug wire, holding it a distance from the plug, and watching it jump to the plug - for just this reason, it was known to damage the rest of the ignition circuits. (It remains a bad idea to crank the engine with the spark plugs out and ungrounded.)
It's also possible for an "out of balance" ignition to cause problems a some later time. How? Beside the visible filter capacitor, there are also caps in the ECU itself. If they are overloaded with reflected power or HF noise, they may get too hot and fail over time. (This was a problem with even factory systems in the 80s and 90s).
Upgrading power in any engine, but particularly the Renny since is starts out in a high-tune state, starts to remove the built-in tolerance that engine has for "events". Who knows, maybe a load of crappy gas was just enough to send yours over the edge. Beats me, but perhaps a few thoughts coming from left-field viewpoint might be helpful.
Last edited by HiFlite999; 12-09-2010 at 01:23 PM.
#8236
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
my left field guess for OD:
the twin power setup was causing feedback (as mentioned by Hiflite) leading to overheating of the wire to the capacitor .
That blew which then allowed misfires to occur .
An "event" at some earlier date while under full boost (possibly unoticed at the time) led to weakening/cracking of an apex .
Then it was just a matter of time for it to break through and dislodge .
the twin power setup was causing feedback (as mentioned by Hiflite) leading to overheating of the wire to the capacitor .
That blew which then allowed misfires to occur .
An "event" at some earlier date while under full boost (possibly unoticed at the time) led to weakening/cracking of an apex .
Then it was just a matter of time for it to break through and dislodge .
#8238
Registered
iTrader: (3)
interesting thoughts for sure.
This also makes sense of the capacitor in the diagrams of the ls2 coil circuit.
one per coil.
i havent done a lot of ignition stuff on this engine. only the hks dlII which many have ran before. new oem coils. i have ran the same plug wires for a couple of years.
I will say again-- the weak spark was impressive.
Thats one reason i am going back to the 7 lb pulley.
Has anyone ever mentioned to Cam about changing the dwell times with the flash?
This also makes sense of the capacitor in the diagrams of the ls2 coil circuit.
one per coil.
i havent done a lot of ignition stuff on this engine. only the hks dlII which many have ran before. new oem coils. i have ran the same plug wires for a couple of years.
I will say again-- the weak spark was impressive.
Thats one reason i am going back to the 7 lb pulley.
Has anyone ever mentioned to Cam about changing the dwell times with the flash?
#8239
Zoom-Freakin'-Zoom
iTrader: (5)
hey that looks like one of the guys in our club----damn!
Juan just mount a larger 2nd rad ( 21x7?) in sort of a v mount thing. the top part of the 2nd would mount to the bottom radiator mounts--making it about 4 inches off the bottom of the pan. Let the bottom of the 2nd rest on the pan--without a mount---you dont need to mount the bottom part really at this type of angle. the 2nd's hoses and the top mounts will whole it in place.
Think about how that may work better....
DO NOT BUY FROM MR MAZDA7--HE SOLD A SHORTBLOCK OUT FROM UNDER ME. AFTER THE PRICE WAS AGREED AND THE MONEY WAS BEING DEPOSITED INTO PAYPAL HE SENT A MESSAGE HE SOLD IT TO SOMEONE ELSE. HE OFFERED ME ANOTHER MOTOR BUT I HAD ALREADY CHECKED THE VIN NUMBER ON THE ONE WE HAD AGREED ON.DONT TRUST HIM AT ALL.
od
Juan just mount a larger 2nd rad ( 21x7?) in sort of a v mount thing. the top part of the 2nd would mount to the bottom radiator mounts--making it about 4 inches off the bottom of the pan. Let the bottom of the 2nd rest on the pan--without a mount---you dont need to mount the bottom part really at this type of angle. the 2nd's hoses and the top mounts will whole it in place.
Think about how that may work better....
DO NOT BUY FROM MR MAZDA7--HE SOLD A SHORTBLOCK OUT FROM UNDER ME. AFTER THE PRICE WAS AGREED AND THE MONEY WAS BEING DEPOSITED INTO PAYPAL HE SENT A MESSAGE HE SOLD IT TO SOMEONE ELSE. HE OFFERED ME ANOTHER MOTOR BUT I HAD ALREADY CHECKED THE VIN NUMBER ON THE ONE WE HAD AGREED ON.DONT TRUST HIM AT ALL.
od
i said you would fix it! have lots of wires and stuff if you need it..
the photos is silly funny..
beers
#8240
Registered
iTrader: (3)
yep yall know me too well.
I need an intervention.
Juan next year I am setting a goal to come down and run with you at Sebring. Maybe a couple of guys from our club will come also.
I got a great deal on a low milage(vin verified) good compression long block (even with the alternator!) so I will be back. However I am taking my time.
Juan where did you pick up the 09 injectors? They are probably ridiculus from Mazda?
Repeat ---has anyone ever asked Cam about including an increased dwell with his flash?
I need an intervention.
Juan next year I am setting a goal to come down and run with you at Sebring. Maybe a couple of guys from our club will come also.
I got a great deal on a low milage(vin verified) good compression long block (even with the alternator!) so I will be back. However I am taking my time.
Juan where did you pick up the 09 injectors? They are probably ridiculus from Mazda?
Repeat ---has anyone ever asked Cam about including an increased dwell with his flash?
#8241
Some logs from my last session at PBIR.
Still don't know why my car runs so hot while in "driving like you stole it" mode. 233F max while racing and 180~185F at normal driving.
Ambient temp: 65~70F
IAT: 100~105 while spraying 50/50 mix of VP M5. Not a lot but just enough to prevent detonation.
Runing:
1. 90/10 water/coolant mixture with water wetter.
2. Mazmart water/thermostat combo.
3. BHR aluminum radiator.
4. Secondary rail radiator.
Could it be the M5 or my MSD coils?
Still don't know why my car runs so hot while in "driving like you stole it" mode. 233F max while racing and 180~185F at normal driving.
Ambient temp: 65~70F
IAT: 100~105 while spraying 50/50 mix of VP M5. Not a lot but just enough to prevent detonation.
Runing:
1. 90/10 water/coolant mixture with water wetter.
2. Mazmart water/thermostat combo.
3. BHR aluminum radiator.
4. Secondary rail radiator.
Could it be the M5 or my MSD coils?
The Renny is a tiny little motor to be making the power you're getting; that's a lot of heat concentrated in a small volume. Consequently, coolant passages are smaller relative to engine heat potential and less able to carry away the heat generated. I think we run smack up against the cooling potential with the Renesis with our current setups, and probably why Rolex Cup RX8s run 20Bs instead of boosted Rennys.
#8242
Also think about it, cooler in cooler out. That also gets rid of the hotspots were the coolent tends to boil. Those areas are to include around the splugs and around the exhaust ports.
#8243
Pretty normal under hard going really, as said, there's a lot of heat in a small area so it tends to need a lot of flow to keep cool, ours has been a fair old journey to finally getting it to stay just under 100*c when it's at full throttle for a minute or two.
#8244
Registered User
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,112
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Juan next year I am setting a goal to come down and run with you at Sebring. Maybe a couple of guys from our club will come also.
Bring them along with some sleeping bags. Food and beers on da house.
Juan where did you pick up the 09 injectors? They are probably ridiculus from Mazda?
Bring them along with some sleeping bags. Food and beers on da house.
Juan where did you pick up the 09 injectors? They are probably ridiculus from Mazda?
Two of this N3R2-13-250 $153 each
Yes, from Mazda unless you can find a better deal.
#8247
Registered