Pettit Super Charger Owners
#8777
The 2009 and up P2 (brown injectors) are 480cc
The 2004-08 P1 (red injectors) are 290cc ?? not sure about this one.
The 2004-08 P2 and AUX (yellow injectors) are 380cc
The 2004-?? 4 port renesis (blue injectors) are 480cc
#8778
Ok, looking at those numbers I'm only pumping 870ccs. An 04 to 08 is pumping out 1050 ccs. I'm almost 200 ccs short. But I only tac out at 7500. So, I should be ok, atleast in the lower revs. I gotta figure out how to rescale the p2s.
#8779
Oh boy--rescaling injectors does sound like a lot of fun.......
What spark plugs are everyone running now? Still of oem (with low boost pulley)? Or are people going 1 step colder for DD? Are yall swapping plugs for tracking?
Juan -- for break in of your new engine--you give it 500 miles or 1K? No boost during that time? Is that about right? Do that 1st oil change after 30 minutes of running and then after about 100miles--then go to regular change schecule?
Mine should be here in a day or two--have lots of small stuff to do. I will take some pics about how I have done my a/w cooler , v mounted my secondary and how I place the a/w pump.
What spark plugs are everyone running now? Still of oem (with low boost pulley)? Or are people going 1 step colder for DD? Are yall swapping plugs for tracking?
Juan -- for break in of your new engine--you give it 500 miles or 1K? No boost during that time? Is that about right? Do that 1st oil change after 30 minutes of running and then after about 100miles--then go to regular change schecule?
Mine should be here in a day or two--have lots of small stuff to do. I will take some pics about how I have done my a/w cooler , v mounted my secondary and how I place the a/w pump.
#8780
What spark plugs are everyone running now?
NGKs 10.5 Leading 11.5 Trailing at .025 and I don't DD (mostly highway/road racing).
Juan -- for break in of your new engine--you give it 500 miles or 1K?
1K
No boost during that time?
Only after 700 miles just for a short burst on second gear per Cam instructions.
Do that 1st oil change after 30 minutes of running and then after about 100miles--then go to regular change schecule?
I did mine about 30 min right after first start. Then again at 1K and I only use mazda oem oil filters.
Mine should be here in a day or two--have lots of small stuff to do. I will take some pics about how I have done my a/w cooler , v mounted my secondary and how I place the a/w pump.
NGKs 10.5 Leading 11.5 Trailing at .025 and I don't DD (mostly highway/road racing).
Juan -- for break in of your new engine--you give it 500 miles or 1K?
1K
No boost during that time?
Only after 700 miles just for a short burst on second gear per Cam instructions.
Do that 1st oil change after 30 minutes of running and then after about 100miles--then go to regular change schecule?
I did mine about 30 min right after first start. Then again at 1K and I only use mazda oem oil filters.
Mine should be here in a day or two--have lots of small stuff to do. I will take some pics about how I have done my a/w cooler , v mounted my secondary and how I place the a/w pump.
BTW, I change my oil every 1k due to road racing and now using synthetic 15w40.
#8783
Cam told me not to track unless I am using race gas?
That stuff is $10 a gallon. I can use 3 tanks a w/e
Good luck Bro--watch the temps and the rpms---then kick butt and come home with a big grin on the face.
Thanks for the info.
OD
That stuff is $10 a gallon. I can use 3 tanks a w/e
Good luck Bro--watch the temps and the rpms---then kick butt and come home with a big grin on the face.
Thanks for the info.
OD
#8784
Meh...no mo experimenting.
Now running 25/75 VP M-5 meth to water ratio just to keep from detonation. As always, 100 pre blower and 60 post blower. And please don't use the red goop boost juice.
Adding 5 gallons of VP-110 racing fuel @ $9.50 a gallon to the tank at the racetrack to makeup for the glorious ethanol crap added to our fuel (BP or Hess premium).
ProtekR 4oz per 12 gallons for "normal driving" and 1 to 1 for road racing.
Redline MT-90 for the tranny and 75w90 for the diff
Now running 25/75 VP M-5 meth to water ratio just to keep from detonation. As always, 100 pre blower and 60 post blower. And please don't use the red goop boost juice.
Adding 5 gallons of VP-110 racing fuel @ $9.50 a gallon to the tank at the racetrack to makeup for the glorious ethanol crap added to our fuel (BP or Hess premium).
ProtekR 4oz per 12 gallons for "normal driving" and 1 to 1 for road racing.
Redline MT-90 for the tranny and 75w90 for the diff
#8785
Ok, making some plans, this is a what would you do thing. Would it be a good idea to just up and swap the 390 for the 480 and just get a set of, well what are the biggest ones out? Not reworked ones but factory replacement. Even though 480s all around might probly do the trick I want more for later, not just enough.
#8786
Ok, making some plans, this is a what would you do thing. Would it be a good idea to just up and swap the 390 for the 480 and just get a set of, well what are the biggest ones out? Not reworked ones but factory replacement. Even though 480s all around might probly do the trick I want more for later, not just enough.
#8787
uncapped yellows will test out at 550cc's. People will advertize a higher flow at times with the uncapped yellows but most poeple (including Cam) are getting about 550ccs. So the latency time will be unchanged from s1 oem.
When it comes to staging the s2 injectors-- i dont know if anyone has messed with that yet?
Juan--sounds like a plan to me.
I have changed mine back to a one nozzle set up and will keep it that way. I am of course using a bigger nozzle but no more pre blower stuff for me.
Are you staying in the low 11's with your a/f's while the w/m is spraying (max rpm's/load)?
Let me get something straight if I can. About the SSV, does it open according to rpm or rpm/load?
I liked the way the interceptor X did the SSV--the engine felt better in the lower rpms with it.
Yall do know the ssv leaks---right? It does not seal.
My engine is here tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Did yall know the ssv
I will be at the Mitty this w/e--i will try to get of vids/pics for all.
OD
When it comes to staging the s2 injectors-- i dont know if anyone has messed with that yet?
Juan--sounds like a plan to me.
I have changed mine back to a one nozzle set up and will keep it that way. I am of course using a bigger nozzle but no more pre blower stuff for me.
Are you staying in the low 11's with your a/f's while the w/m is spraying (max rpm's/load)?
Let me get something straight if I can. About the SSV, does it open according to rpm or rpm/load?
I liked the way the interceptor X did the SSV--the engine felt better in the lower rpms with it.
Yall do know the ssv leaks---right? It does not seal.
My engine is here tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Did yall know the ssv
I will be at the Mitty this w/e--i will try to get of vids/pics for all.
OD
Last edited by olddragger; 04-26-2011 at 08:35 PM.
#8788
My Other car's A Stryker
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 607
Likes: 1
From: Updated Location....Back in the USA!
Hey guys, is Pettit still producing the kits? I've called a few times over the past month when I'd have time off and never get a returned call from my message. Im looking to buy a kit and have them install around June/July if possible. My brother is having a company S/C his BMW Z4M coupe around that time, and we have a family friend who is letting us use the condo they have in Naples for as long as we want.
#8789
welcome to the club! Yes they are producing the kits for the 04-09 model.
You have to call them and ask for Cam 561-844-2258. Tell them Olddragger sent ya!
They dont stock the kit and only build to order. Since to have leaway time --that is good.
He can install and tune for you at the shop.
Just have the car in good shape when you drop it off. New coils/plugs etc
You will not regret it!
My built engine is in, but as always for me, getting the trans in is a real bitch. Worked on it for 2 hrs yesterday without success. The 09 trans is bigger and heavier.
Today after work I am going to Lowes and buy some long studs to use as guides, going to loosen the PP bolts so the clutch can move a little during install. That makes it a bitch to retighten them as you have to rotate the engine and tighten them one at a time through the starter access. Once I have this damn thing in, the rest is easy sailing.
I need a lortab or something---Jeez.
You have to call them and ask for Cam 561-844-2258. Tell them Olddragger sent ya!
They dont stock the kit and only build to order. Since to have leaway time --that is good.
He can install and tune for you at the shop.
Just have the car in good shape when you drop it off. New coils/plugs etc
You will not regret it!
My built engine is in, but as always for me, getting the trans in is a real bitch. Worked on it for 2 hrs yesterday without success. The 09 trans is bigger and heavier.
Today after work I am going to Lowes and buy some long studs to use as guides, going to loosen the PP bolts so the clutch can move a little during install. That makes it a bitch to retighten them as you have to rotate the engine and tighten them one at a time through the starter access. Once I have this damn thing in, the rest is easy sailing.
I need a lortab or something---Jeez.
#8792
#8793
that would be ok--i would set right there and tell them what to do.
The extra long studs worked out ok--sure helps to guide the trans and get the angle right.
Hope I can have it running today and maybe drive it to the Mitty tomorrow.
OD
The extra long studs worked out ok--sure helps to guide the trans and get the angle right.
Hope I can have it running today and maybe drive it to the Mitty tomorrow.
OD
#8795
#8796
Ran the car yesterday at PBIR (6 sessions 20/25 minutes each) for the first time since the rebuilt and 1700 miles on the engine.
Temps were in the low 80s and car ran flawlessly except for the engine and oil temps. I had to take it essay midway due to heating. My engine coolant temps fluctuated between 210~216 and my oil temps 220~230 at the oil filter.
I'm running 10% antifreeze to water and using plenty of water wetter. Also, I have the mazmart water pump/thermostat combo and the BHR alum radiator. Oil is synthetic 15w40.
This only happens when driving on the track (long periods of boosting). I saw boost go up to 11psi and my IAT where 100~110 while spraying 25/75 meth/water.
Driving on the highway 80 mph coming back from PBIR 2.5 hour drive (a/c off) ambient temps mid 70s. ECT 180 steady and oil temps 175~180.
I went to Pettit after the track event and Cam thinks that it might be the alum radiator or the two rear holes I have on each side of of my moded hood. The holes might not allow proper engine air flow but then the oil coolers are mounted inside the engine bay.
AFR were in the 11.6~12.1 and I never went over 7500 rpms using plenty of ProtekR 1 to 1 ratio and mixing BP premium 93 octane with 6 gallons of VP 110 octane racing fuel.
One more thing...fuel trim at 0.
Here is a vid link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCei8NcXBtY
Temps were in the low 80s and car ran flawlessly except for the engine and oil temps. I had to take it essay midway due to heating. My engine coolant temps fluctuated between 210~216 and my oil temps 220~230 at the oil filter.
I'm running 10% antifreeze to water and using plenty of water wetter. Also, I have the mazmart water pump/thermostat combo and the BHR alum radiator. Oil is synthetic 15w40.
This only happens when driving on the track (long periods of boosting). I saw boost go up to 11psi and my IAT where 100~110 while spraying 25/75 meth/water.
Driving on the highway 80 mph coming back from PBIR 2.5 hour drive (a/c off) ambient temps mid 70s. ECT 180 steady and oil temps 175~180.
I went to Pettit after the track event and Cam thinks that it might be the alum radiator or the two rear holes I have on each side of of my moded hood. The holes might not allow proper engine air flow but then the oil coolers are mounted inside the engine bay.
AFR were in the 11.6~12.1 and I never went over 7500 rpms using plenty of ProtekR 1 to 1 ratio and mixing BP premium 93 octane with 6 gallons of VP 110 octane racing fuel.
One more thing...fuel trim at 0.
Here is a vid link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCei8NcXBtY
Last edited by marsredr100; 05-01-2011 at 07:29 PM.
#8797
#8798
I used the windshield washer tank, works great. I like the fact that I can hear the pump running and water flowing from inside the car. I didnt plan it that way but its so nice not having to look under the hood to see its working.
#8799
I did some brainstorming with a friend regarding my oil temp issues. We decided that maybe there is some oil cooler air flow issues. If you look at my RB front bumper you will notice that the oil cooler entry holes are bigger than the OEM bumper. However, the fog lights are now located inside and there is a big gap right above the lights. Also, the rubber molding that surrounds the oil cooler and channels the airflow does not sits flush with the RB bumper. Basically, a lot of air flowing around the oil coolers instead of flowing thru the oil coolers. I’m going to seal all those cracks and make sure the air only flows thru the oil coolers.
I believe that my ECT will also go down due to more efficient and lower oil temperatures. We think that the ECT were high due to the high oil temps.
I believe that my ECT will also go down due to more efficient and lower oil temperatures. We think that the ECT were high due to the high oil temps.
#8800
by ECT do you mean water? (Engine Coolant Temp?)
Track day looks fun. I'll try and catch up when I'm out in florida next!
I have the Pettit front end and we built oil cooler ram air ducts into the opening to make sure the oil coolers get plenty of love.
I should probably get some oil temp sensors and plug them into my CAMP system, but havent bothered yet.
Track day looks fun. I'll try and catch up when I'm out in florida next!
I have the Pettit front end and we built oil cooler ram air ducts into the opening to make sure the oil coolers get plenty of love.
I should probably get some oil temp sensors and plug them into my CAMP system, but havent bothered yet.