Pettit Super Charger Owners
#8826
Registered
iTrader: (25)
modified OE injectors: http://kgparts.com/index.php?page=rx8modinject
make sure you have some extra parts on hand: http://injector-rehab.com/shop/RX8-Kit.html
make sure you have some extra parts on hand: http://injector-rehab.com/shop/RX8-Kit.html
#8827
Thanks, I just hope the numbers are about the same on the yellows I got. If so im deffinatly in the ballpark. I should be fine with this crank pully, the big one is to be seen.
#8829
Registered
iTrader: (3)
the yellows that Cam sells flow at 550 cc --at oem fuel pressure.
Yesterday ( Mothers day) and day after my daughters prom ( she was Prom Queen!) I was "awarded" a couple hrs to work on my car.
Tried to crank it and its being stubbon. Geting only a hit/couple hits at the time. Ran the battery down and now have it recharging to try again tonight after work.
Its funny, i have never had an engine in this car that was difficult to crank the 1st time. They usually fire right up. Of coarse my battery is 4 years ol but still with 12.5 volts at rest. under load I dont know--it seems to turn the starter ok--but the amps may be down?
But, like for the past year-- there is always SOMETHING.
Retry tonight and if it doesnt fire up--start problem solving.
I have triple checked injector wiringsignal wires)
F primary--light green/red
R primary--light green /black
F P2--blue/black
R p2--white/green
F secondary --dark green/red
R secondary- white /green
I KNOW the coils/sparkplugs are right.
All grounds hooked up
all vacuum lines SECURE (lol)
TB working/maf ok
o2 sensor hooked up correctly
Yes there is gas in the tank! (dont ask)
fuel pump activates
did the pedal dance
x fingers for today.
Yesterday ( Mothers day) and day after my daughters prom ( she was Prom Queen!) I was "awarded" a couple hrs to work on my car.
Tried to crank it and its being stubbon. Geting only a hit/couple hits at the time. Ran the battery down and now have it recharging to try again tonight after work.
Its funny, i have never had an engine in this car that was difficult to crank the 1st time. They usually fire right up. Of coarse my battery is 4 years ol but still with 12.5 volts at rest. under load I dont know--it seems to turn the starter ok--but the amps may be down?
But, like for the past year-- there is always SOMETHING.
Retry tonight and if it doesnt fire up--start problem solving.
I have triple checked injector wiringsignal wires)
F primary--light green/red
R primary--light green /black
F P2--blue/black
R p2--white/green
F secondary --dark green/red
R secondary- white /green
I KNOW the coils/sparkplugs are right.
All grounds hooked up
all vacuum lines SECURE (lol)
TB working/maf ok
o2 sensor hooked up correctly
Yes there is gas in the tank! (dont ask)
fuel pump activates
did the pedal dance
x fingers for today.
Last edited by olddragger; 05-09-2011 at 08:18 AM.
#8831
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Houston, TX
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I took the 8 for another oil cooler mod test drive. This time the ambient temps were 92~94, not a single cloud and less than 5 mph winds. It was 5 pm and I imagine that the heat from the asphalt was also pretty high. Drove steady for 10 miles at 75 mph, no A/C and IAT at 124~126. Towards the end of the 10 miles the ECT was 194~196 and the oil temp were basically the same 194~196.
I know that this type of driving did not and will not compare with road racing but I can tell that the oil cooler mod is really working. I will definitely get better results come the 29th at Sebring without risking getting a speeding ticket.
Also, going back to Royal Purple 15w-40. The engine now has just over 2k since rebuilt and two changes of semi-synthetic oil. I drained the oil today and frankly I just don’t like the smell of dinosaur oil at all.
I came across this oil test link today and I’m very impress with the Royal Purple synthetic oil results. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
BTW, I was going to put Redline Synthetic but after reading the oil comparo above I decided to go back to Royal Purple. However, the Redline MT-90 I pour in my tranny worked 100% better than the previous 75w90 Royal Purple http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...etic-oils.html
I know that this type of driving did not and will not compare with road racing but I can tell that the oil cooler mod is really working. I will definitely get better results come the 29th at Sebring without risking getting a speeding ticket.
Also, going back to Royal Purple 15w-40. The engine now has just over 2k since rebuilt and two changes of semi-synthetic oil. I drained the oil today and frankly I just don’t like the smell of dinosaur oil at all.
I came across this oil test link today and I’m very impress with the Royal Purple synthetic oil results. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
BTW, I was going to put Redline Synthetic but after reading the oil comparo above I decided to go back to Royal Purple. However, the Redline MT-90 I pour in my tranny worked 100% better than the previous 75w90 Royal Purple http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...etic-oils.html
Last edited by marsredr100; 05-09-2011 at 09:23 PM.
#8832
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Nice dude. But if you are running a tad below 200 during cruising--I think it is going to heat up on the track?
I have used RP motor oil but according to my oil test it sheared too soon and I lost viscosity.
Every engine is different so it may be ok for yours.
Steve Kan is in town Saturday. I am going to see him
I have used RP motor oil but according to my oil test it sheared too soon and I lost viscosity.
Every engine is different so it may be ok for yours.
Steve Kan is in town Saturday. I am going to see him
Last edited by olddragger; 05-10-2011 at 09:54 AM.
#8834
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Houston, TX
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I took the 8 for another oil cooler mod test drive. This time the ambient temps were 92~94, not a single cloud and less than 5 mph winds. It was 5 pm and I imagine that the heat from the asphalt was also pretty high. Drove steady for 10 miles at 75 mph, no A/C and IAT at 124~126. Towards the end of the 10 miles the ECT was 194~196 and the oil temp were basically the same 194~196.
I know that this type of driving did not and will not compare with road racing but I can tell that the oil cooler mod is really working. I will definitely get better results come the 29th at Sebring without risking getting a speeding ticket.
Also, going back to Royal Purple 15w-40. The engine now has just over 2k since rebuilt and two changes of semi-synthetic oil. I drained the oil today and frankly I just don’t like the smell of dinosaur oil at all.
I came across this oil test link today and I’m very impress with the Royal Purple synthetic oil results. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
BTW, I was going to put Redline Synthetic but after reading the oil comparo above I decided to go back to Royal Purple. However, the Redline MT-90 I pour in my tranny worked 100% better than the previous 75w90 Royal Purple http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...etic-oils.html
I know that this type of driving did not and will not compare with road racing but I can tell that the oil cooler mod is really working. I will definitely get better results come the 29th at Sebring without risking getting a speeding ticket.
Also, going back to Royal Purple 15w-40. The engine now has just over 2k since rebuilt and two changes of semi-synthetic oil. I drained the oil today and frankly I just don’t like the smell of dinosaur oil at all.
I came across this oil test link today and I’m very impress with the Royal Purple synthetic oil results. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
BTW, I was going to put Redline Synthetic but after reading the oil comparo above I decided to go back to Royal Purple. However, the Redline MT-90 I pour in my tranny worked 100% better than the previous 75w90 Royal Purple http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...etic-oils.html
Today after changing the oil from semi-dinosaur to full synthetic Royal Purple I took the 8 for another drive. Same route, same temps, SAME EVERYTHING as yesterday to include the time of the day. The only change was the oil (new oil filter too but same as the old one Mazda OEM).
ECT 186~188
Oil Temp 175~177
Basically ECT @ 10 degrees cooler and oil temps @ 18 degrees cooler. Woot???
Just by switching from semi-dino to Royal Purple??? Amazing!!!
This is why is best to change things one item (variable) at a time.
Can't wait till Sebring to really put the oil coolers mod and Royal Purple to the test.
#8836
Registered
iTrader: (3)
i posted some pics on my OD engine thread--yall go over there at look at them.
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305164183
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305163103
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305164183
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305163103
Last edited by olddragger; 05-11-2011 at 08:46 PM.
#8837
100% baller (finally!)
iTrader: (7)
hey folks, so quick update on the car. i'm chasing boost leaks and wondered if anyone has seen this before:
http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/9805/8au.mp4
in the smoke test (lower pressure 10-15lbs) there's smoke coming out from between the IC and the blower. They're bolted together and sealed with a black goo (that's hanging out on the inside a bit too) but it's not airtight. Is this how Pettit was building them? Or was this taken apart at some point I wonder?
Anyway, I'll machine the surfaces and seal it up again and hopefully resolve my power issues finally.
http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/9805/8au.mp4
in the smoke test (lower pressure 10-15lbs) there's smoke coming out from between the IC and the blower. They're bolted together and sealed with a black goo (that's hanging out on the inside a bit too) but it's not airtight. Is this how Pettit was building them? Or was this taken apart at some point I wonder?
Anyway, I'll machine the surfaces and seal it up again and hopefully resolve my power issues finally.
#8840
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Thats my secondary radiator.
It looks like it but it is really not flat. The rear part of it is a approx 4 inchs off the belly pan using the bottom a/c condensor mounts to anchor it. I had to build the mounts. The front part of the cooler is about 1 inch off the belly pan.
That is the position that has worked the best for me. The cooler design is the same as the larger a/w coolant cooler with a large open fin design. That allows for excellant airflow through the cooler.
If I mount it vertically and I am at speed ( above 40 mph) it overcools the engine. So to compromise I discovered that this position works best for me.
Notice also how I cut the front support beam. I now can direct cool air directly to the inside the engine bay air filter. Plus that airflow helps to cool the engine bay some.
It looks like it but it is really not flat. The rear part of it is a approx 4 inchs off the belly pan using the bottom a/c condensor mounts to anchor it. I had to build the mounts. The front part of the cooler is about 1 inch off the belly pan.
That is the position that has worked the best for me. The cooler design is the same as the larger a/w coolant cooler with a large open fin design. That allows for excellant airflow through the cooler.
If I mount it vertically and I am at speed ( above 40 mph) it overcools the engine. So to compromise I discovered that this position works best for me.
Notice also how I cut the front support beam. I now can direct cool air directly to the inside the engine bay air filter. Plus that airflow helps to cool the engine bay some.
#8841
hey folks, so quick update on the car. i'm chasing boost leaks and wondered if anyone has seen this before:
http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/9805/8au.mp4
in the smoke test (lower pressure 10-15lbs) there's smoke coming out from between the IC and the blower. They're bolted together and sealed with a black goo (that's hanging out on the inside a bit too) but it's not airtight. Is this how Pettit was building them? Or was this taken apart at some point I wonder?
Anyway, I'll machine the surfaces and seal it up again and hopefully resolve my power issues finally.
http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/9805/8au.mp4
in the smoke test (lower pressure 10-15lbs) there's smoke coming out from between the IC and the blower. They're bolted together and sealed with a black goo (that's hanging out on the inside a bit too) but it's not airtight. Is this how Pettit was building them? Or was this taken apart at some point I wonder?
Anyway, I'll machine the surfaces and seal it up again and hopefully resolve my power issues finally.
#8845
Dongbag extrordinare
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Away from the fruits of my labor
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I have 0 experience with wiring harnesses.