Pettit Super Charger Owners
03-17-2008, 09:38 PM
#1526
Originally Posted by Moon Assad;
Ok, let me clarify about the coil issue. If you have discoloration in your coils it meens there getting weak. If you start seeing little spots it meens there grounding out to the bracket and somtimes juming through the bracket to another coil causing it to fire at the wrong time= ping or the wrong coil to fire. Ive seen it first hand on the dyno with lights off. If you remove a set of coils from the bracket spacing them close to each other youl see a intermitant spark between the two if the coils are bad. I dont recomend you try this but its how I found out what was happining. It happenes at full load and higher rpm.
Discoloration on the epoxy on the bottom of the coil are from ionization of the air between the bracket and the coil.
There is a massive magnetic field around the coil when it fires.
If a spark conveys from one coil to the next, it is doing so because the coil tower is compromised, not the coil itself.
The coil towers are prone to cracking (they are a different type of plastic than the body of the coil) and the boot of the plug wires often are not good enough to keep them from arcing.
Pitting on the epoxy would be very extreme and I've never seen it - and I've seen a LOT of coils. You can take a MAP gas torch to the bottom of the coil and it won't blister the epoxy for quite a while.
Because of the way the actual transformer is oriented inside the epoxy, it would be impossible under any sort of normal operating condition for the coil to arc there because that is the low-voltage side.
The high voltage side is on top.
The older style coil used to melt the ignitor transistor, but that forms an obvious blister on the plastic on top of the coil.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 03-17-2008 at 09:48 PM.
03-17-2008, 09:41 PM
#1528
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The flashing light is most probably the crank trigger familiarization which is causing syc errors. You need to do the pedal dance (call Cam if you do not know what this is and he will explain). I've not driven one for extended distances with the crank sync error (MIL flashing) so I do not know if this is causing the detonation but I would think it a possibility if the PCM is actually (a little) confused about crankshaft position.
Before anyone has you second guessing your tuning, get a simple data logger and examine the car's behavior for yourself. A lot of these tuners tend to go at each other trying to put the other one down so they look bigger/better/bader. If I were you, I would log timing and mixture and make sure you are comfortable with the numbers. You can find a good logger at www.efidude.com. It is the one Cam uses and it is nice and affordable. You can check it out by installing the software right off the site for free and importing a data log. I'll try to find one and post it here for you (and anyone else that wants to see what the logger looks like).
You can also get a reflasher option for the logger so Cam can email you the latest calibration files.
Before anyone has you second guessing your tuning, get a simple data logger and examine the car's behavior for yourself. A lot of these tuners tend to go at each other trying to put the other one down so they look bigger/better/bader. If I were you, I would log timing and mixture and make sure you are comfortable with the numbers. You can find a good logger at www.efidude.com. It is the one Cam uses and it is nice and affordable. You can check it out by installing the software right off the site for free and importing a data log. I'll try to find one and post it here for you (and anyone else that wants to see what the logger looks like).
You can also get a reflasher option for the logger so Cam can email you the latest calibration files.
This is certainly something I plan on purchasing in the near future. Might have to wait until after I have new golf clubs.
03-17-2008, 10:00 PM
#1529
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and the price is definitely right...then if you decide to get reflashed you can get a VIN certificate and have it emailed to you..
03-17-2008, 10:02 PM
#1530
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Nope, it doesn't.
Discoloration on the epoxy on the bottom of the coil are from ionization of the air between the bracket and the coil.
There is a massive magnetic field around the coil when it fires.
If a spark conveys from one coil to the next, it is doing so because the coil tower is compromised, not the coil itself.
The coil towers are prone to cracking (they are a different type of plastic than the body of the coil) and the boot of the plug wires often are not good enough to keep them from arcing.
Pitting on the epoxy would be very extreme and I've never seen it - and I've seen a LOT of coils. You can take a MAP gas torch to the bottom of the coil and it won't blister the epoxy for quite a while.
Because of the way the actual transformer is oriented inside the epoxy, it would be impossible under any sort of normal operating condition for the coil to arc there because that is the low-voltage side.
The high voltage side is on top.
The older style coil used to melt the ignitor transistor, but that forms an obvious blister on the plastic on top of the coil.
Discoloration on the epoxy on the bottom of the coil are from ionization of the air between the bracket and the coil.
There is a massive magnetic field around the coil when it fires.
If a spark conveys from one coil to the next, it is doing so because the coil tower is compromised, not the coil itself.
The coil towers are prone to cracking (they are a different type of plastic than the body of the coil) and the boot of the plug wires often are not good enough to keep them from arcing.
Pitting on the epoxy would be very extreme and I've never seen it - and I've seen a LOT of coils. You can take a MAP gas torch to the bottom of the coil and it won't blister the epoxy for quite a while.
Because of the way the actual transformer is oriented inside the epoxy, it would be impossible under any sort of normal operating condition for the coil to arc there because that is the low-voltage side.
The high voltage side is on top.
The older style coil used to melt the ignitor transistor, but that forms an obvious blister on the plastic on top of the coil.
03-17-2008, 10:04 PM
#1531
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Nope, it doesn't.
Discoloration on the epoxy on the bottom of the coil are from ionization of the air between the bracket and the coil.
There is a massive magnetic field around the coil when it fires.
If a spark conveys from one coil to the next, it is doing so because the coil tower is compromised, not the coil itself.
The coil towers are prone to cracking (they are a different type of plastic than the body of the coil) and the boot of the plug wires often are not good enough to keep them from arcing.
Pitting on the epoxy would be very extreme and I've never seen it - and I've seen a LOT of coils. You can take a MAP gas torch to the bottom of the coil and it won't blister the epoxy for quite a while.
Because of the way the actual transformer is oriented inside the epoxy, it would be impossible under any sort of normal operating condition for the coil to arc there because that is the low-voltage side.
The high voltage side is on top.
The older style coil used to melt the ignitor transistor, but that forms an obvious blister on the plastic on top of the coil.
Discoloration on the epoxy on the bottom of the coil are from ionization of the air between the bracket and the coil.
There is a massive magnetic field around the coil when it fires.
If a spark conveys from one coil to the next, it is doing so because the coil tower is compromised, not the coil itself.
The coil towers are prone to cracking (they are a different type of plastic than the body of the coil) and the boot of the plug wires often are not good enough to keep them from arcing.
Pitting on the epoxy would be very extreme and I've never seen it - and I've seen a LOT of coils. You can take a MAP gas torch to the bottom of the coil and it won't blister the epoxy for quite a while.
Because of the way the actual transformer is oriented inside the epoxy, it would be impossible under any sort of normal operating condition for the coil to arc there because that is the low-voltage side.
The high voltage side is on top.
The older style coil used to melt the ignitor transistor, but that forms an obvious blister on the plastic on top of the coil.
03-17-2008, 10:11 PM
#1533
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03-17-2008, 10:28 PM
#1534
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03-17-2008, 10:35 PM
#1536
What does that mean? Usually an emoticon is used for punctuation, not the actual statement.
Uh, OK. What does that mean? Why do you say stuff like that? How is that an appropriate response?
What does the anatomy of a coil failure and your concept of religeon have to do with each other?
Lol. "Two".
What does the anatomy of a coil failure and your concept of religeon have to do with each other?
Lol. "Two".
03-17-2008, 10:54 PM
#1537
The white color has nothing to do with the coils integrity...I have some that are 100% OK...and have that...and the ones that failed outright....don't have it at all.....get out a good multimeter....and a timing light....then you can tell if they work
03-17-2008, 11:32 PM
#1538
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Funny you should say that, ive had a few that look new and dont work, some have markes and work ok at idle but ive never tried using a timing light on a car under load taching 5 + thousand RPMs on a dyno. You can try but I wouldnt recomend you do. Did I mention it usualy shows its faults under load and high RPMs. Ive tested a few coils with multimeters and have seen them test ok yet the problem persists [at high RPM], replaced them and no more problems so you can talk about magnetic forcefields and stuff like that but as a whole, if you seem to have a problem its much easyier just to replace them if you suspect them as being a problem, sometimes even if you dont [ it never hurts to have an extra set laying around]. You never now. Id say the order for diagnosing a problem with an 8 engine is 1st make sure it isnt bad gas 2nd replace the coils and or plugs and 3rd, proper fuel pressure........ But if your motor is blown skip step 1 through 3. rite Jeff.
03-17-2008, 11:44 PM
#1539
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Uh, OK. What does that mean? Why do you say stuff like that? How is that an appropriate response?
What does the anatomy of a coil failure and your concept of religeon have to do with each other?
I just wanted you to ask [what does that mean] that was the only reason.
What does the anatomy of a coil failure and your concept of religeon have to do with each other?
I just wanted you to ask [what does that mean] that was the only reason.
03-18-2008, 01:27 AM
#1543
Ahh, the irony.
I still haven't figured out why the Firefox spell checker thinks that is spelled correctly.
When you can pronounce rødgrød, I'll worry about how to spell religion correctly.
You don't need to do it on a dyno, but that would be the best way since the current load on the coils would be higher.
There is no particular reason not to do it that way, unless you are frightened of standing next to a Pettit supercharger on the dyno (since there is a pretty good chance of the drive mechanism coming apart at 5k).
A failed coil won't misfire - it just wont fire. Look for the dark cycles on the light.
However, you can just do it free-rev.
Even in neutral, a bad coil will fail at higher RPM.
I still haven't figured out why the Firefox spell checker thinks that is spelled correctly.
When you can pronounce rødgrød, I'll worry about how to spell religion correctly.
There is no particular reason not to do it that way, unless you are frightened of standing next to a Pettit supercharger on the dyno (since there is a pretty good chance of the drive mechanism coming apart at 5k).
A failed coil won't misfire - it just wont fire. Look for the dark cycles on the light.
However, you can just do it free-rev.
Even in neutral, a bad coil will fail at higher RPM.
03-18-2008, 05:58 AM
#1544
Lighten up, tough guy.
The real irony was in the subject line of that last PM I sent you. Thoise? I needed spell-check myself. I'll pronounce that word of your properly when you can convince me I should give a **** what it means.
*******.
JK.
03-18-2008, 07:07 AM
#1546
Let it pass, Moon. When Jeff finds his *** backed into a corner, he has a habit of going non-sequitur on us
03-18-2008, 08:47 AM
#1549
I agree with Lola --the date logger will save you a lot of time and guessing. Sounds like you replaced all the right ignition parts with the install(the right way of doing it!).
You have the pettit pipe with the flash--thats right. So--
how old is your fuel pump? Any fuel starvation issues before?
Double check your ignition connections and check all vacuum lines. How do you have your vacuum lines hooked up?
Intake/charge temps should not be an issue if the a/w intercooler is working and your a/f's are "ok". Your detonation came at a realitivly low rpm also. Cam told me that the timing is very conservative on his flash.
The pedal dance should not apply since this was the 1st run you had after the install and your battery was out for a while?---doesnt hurt anything though.
Again data logger will solve it all--i plan on getting one REALLY soon.
olddragger
You have the pettit pipe with the flash--thats right. So--
how old is your fuel pump? Any fuel starvation issues before?
Double check your ignition connections and check all vacuum lines. How do you have your vacuum lines hooked up?
Intake/charge temps should not be an issue if the a/w intercooler is working and your a/f's are "ok". Your detonation came at a realitivly low rpm also. Cam told me that the timing is very conservative on his flash.
The pedal dance should not apply since this was the 1st run you had after the install and your battery was out for a while?---doesnt hurt anything though.
Again data logger will solve it all--i plan on getting one REALLY soon.
olddragger
03-18-2008, 10:50 AM
#1550
Wow. Paying attention, I see.
Obviously, I was backed into a corner. Like a badger. In a corner. Backwards.
Anyway, I should know that you shouldn't let little details - such as facts - interrupt a good modus tollendo tollens. (You can look that one up in the same place you looked up "non sequitur".)
No, go out and check your coils.
I'm pretty sure I saw squirting. We can watch the tape.
Define "conservative". Exactly how many degrees of timing and split are "conservative" and under what conditions?
I am willing to bet that "conservative" is no where near what is actually conservative on a boosted rotary motor.