Pettit Super Charger Owners
#1951
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w/m really helps with intake temps---hottest day so far here in mid ga has been mid 80's--running 3/4 hard up to 110mph several times and intake temps not over 125 ---ever! Mostly lower than 120.
Controller at present activates at around 3v from the Maf and maxs at around 4.8v---i am still playing with that and it may change as the weather gets warmer etc.
Remember also the methanol increases the octane rating---that aint bad at all.
I would advise people to monitor their intake temps (just use the old pettit site) as my fuse blew one day that powers the a/w pump and i didnt know it. But i saw the intake temps climbing and figued it out quickly. The temp can jump to 130-135 very quickly. Not good. Glad I had the gauge.
Also the w/m system is like steam cleaning your engine all the time--helps prevent carbon buidup.
olddragger
Controller at present activates at around 3v from the Maf and maxs at around 4.8v---i am still playing with that and it may change as the weather gets warmer etc.
Remember also the methanol increases the octane rating---that aint bad at all.
I would advise people to monitor their intake temps (just use the old pettit site) as my fuse blew one day that powers the a/w pump and i didnt know it. But i saw the intake temps climbing and figued it out quickly. The temp can jump to 130-135 very quickly. Not good. Glad I had the gauge.
Also the w/m system is like steam cleaning your engine all the time--helps prevent carbon buidup.
olddragger
#1952
Londons Yellow Peril
#1953
Next on the drawing board is a metal version of our Pettit SC kit air bypass valve that I purchased on eBay. It should arrive this week and I'll let you know (as always) my findings. It is basically the same thing except that all the components are made of aluminum instead of plastic. I showed it to Cam and he said he likes it and he reminded me to not use any of the springs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch...mZ360031281185
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch...mZ360031281185
#1954
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you have to install a air temp gauge in which it has a sensor that needs to be installed into the intake manifold. The old Pettit intake temp sensor position is a good spot and the after market sensor will fit into it without any modification. So its a good spot.
Phil do you have a boost gauge? How did you know you were loosing boost?
Whats wrong with the one we have? Anything to look out for?
OD
Phil do you have a boost gauge? How did you know you were loosing boost?
Whats wrong with the one we have? Anything to look out for?
OD
#1955
you have to install a air temp gauge in which it has a sensor that needs to be installed into the intake manifold. The old Pettit intake temp sensor position is a good spot and the after market sensor will fit into it without any modification. So its a good spot.
Phil do you have a boost gauge? How did you know you were loosing boost?
Whats wrong with the one we have? Anything to look out for?
OD
Phil do you have a boost gauge? How did you know you were loosing boost?
Whats wrong with the one we have? Anything to look out for?
OD
#1956
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iTrader: (3)
Ambient + 10 degrees F !? Did I read that right? You are measuring post blower ---correct?
So you are saying that at 80f ambient your intake temp is at 90F?
if that is true---Holey Mother of God! Mine is a good 30-40 degrees higher even with the water meth activated. So 80F outside+ hard run = 110---120F.
Cruising is a different story--its only about 20-30 degrees then.
Is Rays intercooler that good!
olddragger
So you are saying that at 80f ambient your intake temp is at 90F?
if that is true---Holey Mother of God! Mine is a good 30-40 degrees higher even with the water meth activated. So 80F outside+ hard run = 110---120F.
Cruising is a different story--its only about 20-30 degrees then.
Is Rays intercooler that good!
olddragger
#1957
Ambient + 10 degrees F !? Did I read that right? You are measuring post blower ---correct?
So you are saying that at 80f ambient your intake temp is at 90F?
if that is true---Holey Mother of God! Mine is a good 30-40 degrees higher even with the water meth activated. So 80F outside+ hard run = 110---120F.
Cruising is a different story--its only about 20-30 degrees then.
Is Rays intercooler that good!
olddragger
So you are saying that at 80f ambient your intake temp is at 90F?
if that is true---Holey Mother of God! Mine is a good 30-40 degrees higher even with the water meth activated. So 80F outside+ hard run = 110---120F.
Cruising is a different story--its only about 20-30 degrees then.
Is Rays intercooler that good!
olddragger
#1958
I don't know what Denny is yelling about......he's gonna do me a favor and SERIOUSLY flog the BHR liquid intercooler and gather data for me on May 17-18. I can't make any claims except those that may be based on simple math but math and Mother Nature don't always agree. Thus, the "flogging" event.
Phil has done stellar work for me, like always, but I need some track proofing, as well.
Phil has done stellar work for me, like always, but I need some track proofing, as well.
#1960
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#1963
In general appearance, yes. I sent a note to my supplier to see what the deal is. If they are one and the same I guess I have a little price competing to do, don't I?
#1964
Marsreder: My bypass did not come with replaceable springs but is still adjustable. I am curious as to why you would not use one of the springs? Ray told me to leave mine as it came from the factory but I am curious as to why? I realize that you can get more boost than the engine will take and that maybe your gas mileage would be affected but is there another reason that my age affected brain can not fathom?
#1965
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I ain't yelling---I am just excited and at my age you enjoy those exciting times as much as possible! I have been looking at fluidynes supercharger cooler cooler for the mustang set up---sure looks good.
10 days to tracking and old friends--its going to be a blast. I will not get much sleep friday night so i dont know about my energy level Sat--but I will try.
My car is running good---you may also have some suggestions on my water meth system settings etc. I like seeing my innovate a/f gauge react to the w/m going in(and coming out obviously).
I still have to get a small catch can for track use.
Curious about upgrading(?) the blow off valve---what benefit over the oridginal is there? My power is good so my boost is good i suppose----i dont have a boost gauge.
This kit is maturing--- the only thing i really wish for is a automatic belt tensioner.
By the way what is the replacement number for our belt--i want to take an extra to the track.
olddragger
10 days to tracking and old friends--its going to be a blast. I will not get much sleep friday night so i dont know about my energy level Sat--but I will try.
My car is running good---you may also have some suggestions on my water meth system settings etc. I like seeing my innovate a/f gauge react to the w/m going in(and coming out obviously).
I still have to get a small catch can for track use.
Curious about upgrading(?) the blow off valve---what benefit over the oridginal is there? My power is good so my boost is good i suppose----i dont have a boost gauge.
This kit is maturing--- the only thing i really wish for is a automatic belt tensioner.
By the way what is the replacement number for our belt--i want to take an extra to the track.
olddragger
#1966
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Marsreder: My bypass did not come with replaceable springs but is still adjustable. I am curious as to why you would not use one of the springs? Ray told me to leave mine as it came from the factory but I am curious as to why? I realize that you can get more boost than the engine will take and that maybe your gas mileage would be affected but is there another reason that my age affected brain can not fathom?
I'm just following Cam's recommendation as I stated before. I can't recall exactly what he told me over the phone but the word instantaneously comes to mind.
OD
The Bosch type bypass valve has a diaphragm which is prone to vacuum leak and the diaphragm can wobble inside thus not allowing to seat properly. Also, no to mention that the valve is made out of plastic and prone to come apart under high boost conditions. (Ask Munche about it.) The metal type bypass contains an internal piston that travels straight (up/down) inside the bypass valve chamber for a better seal and (obviously) is made out of metal (stronger than plastic).
#1967
I ain't yelling---I am just excited and at my age you enjoy those exciting times as much as possible! I have been looking at fluidynes supercharger cooler cooler for the mustang set up---sure looks good.
10 days to tracking and old friends--its going to be a blast. I will not get much sleep friday night so i dont know about my energy level Sat--but I will try.
My car is running good---you may also have some suggestions on my water meth system settings etc. I like seeing my innovate a/f gauge react to the w/m going in(and coming out obviously).
I still have to get a small catch can for track use.
Curious about upgrading(?) the blow off valve---what benefit over the oridginal is there? My power is good so my boost is good i suppose----i dont have a boost gauge.
This kit is maturing--- the only thing i really wish for is a automatic belt tensioner.
By the way what is the replacement number for our belt--i want to take an extra to the track.
olddragger
10 days to tracking and old friends--its going to be a blast. I will not get much sleep friday night so i dont know about my energy level Sat--but I will try.
My car is running good---you may also have some suggestions on my water meth system settings etc. I like seeing my innovate a/f gauge react to the w/m going in(and coming out obviously).
I still have to get a small catch can for track use.
Curious about upgrading(?) the blow off valve---what benefit over the oridginal is there? My power is good so my boost is good i suppose----i dont have a boost gauge.
This kit is maturing--- the only thing i really wish for is a automatic belt tensioner.
By the way what is the replacement number for our belt--i want to take an extra to the track.
olddragger
#1968
Doesn't Denny have a boost gauge?
BHR is working on a new blower drive with Gates.
The BHR intercooler is spec'd to be able to cool 40 lbs./min. of airflow at 14 psi., assuming the undercooler is also up to the task. The heat-shedder is a little more important than the heat retainer.
BHR is working on a new blower drive with Gates.
The BHR intercooler is spec'd to be able to cool 40 lbs./min. of airflow at 14 psi., assuming the undercooler is also up to the task. The heat-shedder is a little more important than the heat retainer.
#1969
Doesn't Denny have a boost gauge?
BHR is working on a new blower drive with Gates.
The BHR intercooler is spec'd to be able to cool 40 lbs./min. of airflow at 14 psi., assuming the undercooler is also up to the task. The heat-shedder is a little more important than the heat retainer.
BHR is working on a new blower drive with Gates.
The BHR intercooler is spec'd to be able to cool 40 lbs./min. of airflow at 14 psi., assuming the undercooler is also up to the task. The heat-shedder is a little more important than the heat retainer.
#1971
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Another gauge? Dang --cant keep my eye on the road as it is. we are loosing boost huh? c Ok where is a good place to drill for the install---after RR i may do this.
maybe i need the new bypass valve before Roebling? If it is causing lost boost or erratic boost i would say i need it.
recommendations and be quick please as in 9 days I am on track. Does Summit carry a good one?
Ray 40lbs an hr-- huh--thats nice and does the volume increase a good bit also? I have no idea about the undercooler---it would be nice to have a real cool can for track use.
olddragger
maybe i need the new bypass valve before Roebling? If it is causing lost boost or erratic boost i would say i need it.
recommendations and be quick please as in 9 days I am on track. Does Summit carry a good one?
Ray 40lbs an hr-- huh--thats nice and does the volume increase a good bit also? I have no idea about the undercooler---it would be nice to have a real cool can for track use.
olddragger
#1972
I am working on a bulk purchase of about 15-20 billet bypass valves.
My intercooler is spec'd for about 400 h.p. and enough intake temp reduction to cool 13-14 psi with typical ambients. Overrated for the Opcon to say the least.
My intercooler is spec'd for about 400 h.p. and enough intake temp reduction to cool 13-14 psi with typical ambients. Overrated for the Opcon to say the least.
#1973
I discovered that if you remove the spring you get a better idle because of less load on the blower. You get less noise also. Guess the secrets out Just make sure you grease or oil the valve to keep the Orings from sticking. I havent tryed it but id bet if you put a little oil in the valve were you hook the vac hose youl be good for a while.
#1974
I discovered that if you remove the spring you get a better idle because of less load on the blower. You get less noise also. Guess the secrets out Just make sure you grease or oil the valve to keep the Orings from sticking. I havent tryed it but id bet if you put a little oil in the valve were you hook the vac hose youl be good for a while.
#1975
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Phil,
I'm just following Cam's recommendation as I stated before. I can't recall exactly what he told me over the phone but the word instantaneously comes to mind.
OD
The Bosch type bypass valve has a diaphragm which is prone to vacuum leak and the diaphragm can wobble inside thus not allowing to seat properly. Also, no to mention that the valve is made out of plastic and prone to come apart under high boost conditions. (Ask Munche about it.) The metal type bypass contains an internal piston that travels straight (up/down) inside the bypass valve chamber for a better seal and (obviously) is made out of metal (stronger than plastic).
I'm just following Cam's recommendation as I stated before. I can't recall exactly what he told me over the phone but the word instantaneously comes to mind.
OD
The Bosch type bypass valve has a diaphragm which is prone to vacuum leak and the diaphragm can wobble inside thus not allowing to seat properly. Also, no to mention that the valve is made out of plastic and prone to come apart under high boost conditions. (Ask Munche about it.) The metal type bypass contains an internal piston that travels straight (up/down) inside the bypass valve chamber for a better seal and (obviously) is made out of metal (stronger than plastic).