Pettit Super Charger Owners
06-09-2008, 07:09 PM
#2276
I'm an embarrassed owner of an 07 RX8 6spd-auto with a Pettit stage II sc. I have read the owners manual, searched for an answer for hours online, and went to my local Mazda dealership for help, but I can't find my tranny fluid dipstick! They printed a picture showing it to be a red cap in front of the passenger side firewall, but I can't find it.
So far, I'm having a blast. I'm premixing protek with every fill-up, and redlining at least once every trip out. The center console gets pretty warm and I'm scared to death, well, at least a little paranoid that the tranny is overheating.
Anyhow, is the 07 auto a sealed unit, or is the dipstick relocated or hidden by the SC? Maybe an old guy too blind to find a dipstick should'nt be allowed to drive a SC'd rx8, but, hey, I think i'm in love.
So far, I'm having a blast. I'm premixing protek with every fill-up, and redlining at least once every trip out. The center console gets pretty warm and I'm scared to death, well, at least a little paranoid that the tranny is overheating.
Anyhow, is the 07 auto a sealed unit, or is the dipstick relocated or hidden by the SC? Maybe an old guy too blind to find a dipstick should'nt be allowed to drive a SC'd rx8, but, hey, I think i'm in love.
06-09-2008, 07:16 PM
#2277
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Thanks! I can sleep tonight. I 'm looking forward to talking to Cam because this thing runs perfectly. I didn't think an automatic in a performance car could be so much fun, but damn, I can't wipe this smile off my face.
06-09-2008, 07:19 PM
#2278
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BTW, are you using the Nitro Boost? Any hp gains?
06-09-2008, 08:05 PM
#2279
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Humm! Not sure on that but consider fabing a heat shield ala mazdatrix like the one made for the holley carb http://www.mazdatrix.com/r-holley.htm
BTW, are you using the Nitro Boost? Any hp gains?
BTW, are you using the Nitro Boost? Any hp gains?
I want it....
I am checking to find some local; otherwise it takes 5 days via ground shipping.
How dangerous can 8 ozs of Nitro-Methane be?
Snow reports it does lean the mix slightly, mines rich under load...
A/F = 10.4 or 10.5
06-09-2008, 08:45 PM
#2280
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Well, congrats on the car, glad you like it, thought you would. PS, im jealous. Keep us posted on what youve done or improved.
Just had a thought, why not insolate the intake, just a thought. Just imagine how hot it would be if you had a turbo, opps did I just start another fight
.
Just had a thought, why not insolate the intake, just a thought. Just imagine how hot it would be if you had a turbo, opps did I just start another fight
.
06-09-2008, 09:00 PM
#2281
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although, i already knew...
welcome to the 8 club and the world of forced-induction the pettit way!!
06-09-2008, 09:48 PM
#2282
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Well, congrats on the car, glad you like it, thought you would. PS, im jealous. Keep us posted on what youve done or improved.
Just had a thought, why not insolate the intake, just a thought. Just imagine how hot it would be if you had a turbo, opps did I just start another fight .
Just had a thought, why not insolate the intake, just a thought. Just imagine how hot it would be if you had a turbo, opps did I just start another fight
.
06-09-2008, 10:17 PM
#2283
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We have a foil covered insolation at the shop, it would look alot cleaner if you use something simuler, the stuff we have is pretty expensive but I bet youd see lower intake temps if used properly.
06-10-2008, 01:24 PM
#2286
I made a heat shield out of some very thin sheet metal and wrapped that with some heat exhaust wrap, secured with little screws etc. I mounted that on top of the aluminum oem shield/engine, just below the lower intake and across to the frame/body. it helps some, but my conculsion is that the heat is coming from the engine itself not the header. We may benefit from a heat blocking intake gasket like the honda guys sometimes use.
olddragger
olddragger
06-10-2008, 01:55 PM
#2287
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I made a heat shield out of some very thin sheet metal and wrapped that with some heat exhaust wrap, secured with little screws etc. I mounted that on top of the aluminum oem shield/engine, just below the lower intake and across to the frame/body. it helps some, but my conculsion is that the heat is coming from the engine itself not the header. We may benefit from a heat blocking intake gasket like the honda guys sometimes use.
olddragger
olddragger
I had my I/C pump loose prime today. Its amazing how fast IAT climbs when that happens -- within about 2-3 minutes, IAT had climbed and steadied out at 182 degF, which was 15degF cooler than my coolant temp at the time. This was all while cruising at 3000rpm (no boost).
06-16-2008, 10:59 AM
#2293
ok ---sharing some info in regard to heat issues and IAT's.
1- I have found out that the rb scoop causes a recirculation swirl at the top part of the radiator. The rb scoop has to be removed---if you are using it---and the 2nd heat plate thing that attaches to the front crash bar needs to reinstalled. Actually you need to make a better one to seal that area in a better manner. I did run just a 3 inch flex pipe from tbehind the grill to the engine comparment to give it a little air. Also seal the sides where the plasic joins the metal--use foam --whatever. Seal as much as you can in the area that feeds the coolers--all of them.
2- mount the a/w intercoolers (and do keep them in parellell) as far away from the a/c condeser as you can AND mount them as upright as you can. If you use an additional fan (pusher type) on the i/c DO NOT use it until the engine fans come on as it will bounce hotter air off the a/c, radiator back onto the i/c making it hotter!
3- my car would at times fluctuate between 180F and almost 200F --- so i drilled the thermostat. Now it doesnt.
4- water /meth---- you have to have one nozzle post blower and intercooler. if you only have one nozzle pre blower(and intercooler) then the intercooler will actually heat the water meth spray and you will not notice much change unless you go to a big nozzle! 60 pre for me and 100 post. This **** works! It should be one of the 1st things you get. DO IT!!!
My normal operating engine temps are now down noticiabily and i have control over what temp I want for the iat, whenever i want it.
Everything else that is being done concerning engine temps(a better radiator, lower thermostat is still GOOD) and IAT's in the south is just chasing fleas imho.
Olddragger
1- I have found out that the rb scoop causes a recirculation swirl at the top part of the radiator. The rb scoop has to be removed---if you are using it---and the 2nd heat plate thing that attaches to the front crash bar needs to reinstalled. Actually you need to make a better one to seal that area in a better manner. I did run just a 3 inch flex pipe from tbehind the grill to the engine comparment to give it a little air. Also seal the sides where the plasic joins the metal--use foam --whatever. Seal as much as you can in the area that feeds the coolers--all of them.
2- mount the a/w intercoolers (and do keep them in parellell) as far away from the a/c condeser as you can AND mount them as upright as you can. If you use an additional fan (pusher type) on the i/c DO NOT use it until the engine fans come on as it will bounce hotter air off the a/c, radiator back onto the i/c making it hotter!
3- my car would at times fluctuate between 180F and almost 200F --- so i drilled the thermostat. Now it doesnt.
4- water /meth---- you have to have one nozzle post blower and intercooler. if you only have one nozzle pre blower(and intercooler) then the intercooler will actually heat the water meth spray and you will not notice much change unless you go to a big nozzle! 60 pre for me and 100 post. This **** works! It should be one of the 1st things you get. DO IT!!!
My normal operating engine temps are now down noticiabily and i have control over what temp I want for the iat, whenever i want it.
Everything else that is being done concerning engine temps(a better radiator, lower thermostat is still GOOD) and IAT's in the south is just chasing fleas imho.
Olddragger
06-16-2008, 11:10 AM
#2294
On this particular issue it will interesting for me to see what Juan's experiences are as he has the BHR radiator. Pettit also has a BHR rad to play with and I am awaiting Cam's input on it as well.
06-16-2008, 06:21 PM
#2297
Registered
Old-Dragger:
> 3- my car would at times fluctuate between 180F and almost 200F --- so i drilled the thermostat. Now it doesnt.
You can also cut everything off the thermostat except the flat "body" washer that fits the thermostat housing for the lowest temp, but the car will be very slow to warm up.
4- water /meth---- you have to have one nozzle post blower and intercooler. if you only have one nozzle pre blower(and intercooler) then the intercooler will actually heat the water meth spray and you will not notice much change unless you go to a big nozzle! 60 pre for me and 100 post. This **** works! It should be one of the 1st things you get. DO IT!!!
I am running the 175 ml nozzle in front of the blower, this explains a lot.
> 3- my car would at times fluctuate between 180F and almost 200F --- so i drilled the thermostat. Now it doesnt.
You can also cut everything off the thermostat except the flat "body" washer that fits the thermostat housing for the lowest temp, but the car will be very slow to warm up.
4- water /meth---- you have to have one nozzle post blower and intercooler. if you only have one nozzle pre blower(and intercooler) then the intercooler will actually heat the water meth spray and you will not notice much change unless you go to a big nozzle! 60 pre for me and 100 post. This **** works! It should be one of the 1st things you get. DO IT!!!
I am running the 175 ml nozzle in front of the blower, this explains a lot.
06-16-2008, 06:33 PM
#2298
Mounting a nozzle before the blower just cools the blower itself.
It does nothing for your net intake latent heat.
Its kinda sad that you need to cool the blower in the first place.
Just put a big nozzle after the blower and call it a day (unless you are actually worried about the blower's longevity due to heat-related damage; but that is a different story).
It does nothing for your net intake latent heat.
Its kinda sad that you need to cool the blower in the first place.
Just put a big nozzle after the blower and call it a day (unless you are actually worried about the blower's longevity due to heat-related damage; but that is a different story).
06-16-2008, 07:36 PM
#2299
twin screws really dont have to worry much about that --the discussions i have heard concern the roots style with those large air chambers. But if you can make things run cooler they usually last longer and perform better--sort of like making sure the turbo is getting enough oil and a turbo timer is installed?
OD
OD
