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Possible New Upgrade for Greddy Turbo?

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Old 02-10-2012 | 05:45 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by swoope
you do ripoffs?
and he's an outright liar to boot


The easiest stainless steel flange to fabricate a manifold from would be the Racing Beat stainless header flange because it is already configured with round outlet stubs. You will need to put a block plate on the air injection pipe flange.
Old 02-10-2012 | 04:37 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by kma5783
What material did you use? Mild Steel, 321SS, 304SS, a combination? Where did you get the Manifold flange? Racing Beat? I see that they offer one but it's Mild Steel, I'd prefer to use all Stainless.
Does anyone know of someone that sells a Stainless Steel Flange?
I 304ss.
I have my own flanges water-jet cut in 1/2 304SS.
I can get extras if you need them.

Originally Posted by TeamRX8
and he's an outright liar to boot
So, slander is your new angle? You might want to elaborate on that, then.
Old 02-10-2012 | 05:36 PM
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if you insist



Originally Posted by MazdaManiac;4084859 dated 9/11/2011
All outstanding orders for kits were shipped. That is a fact.
Originally Posted by Luxluc;4133526 dated 11/28/2011
Good morning to you all,

I just want to start a thread to (maybe) get information from MM about the status about my order (Turbo kit) that I launched and paid in December 2008.

I haven't heard anything from Jeff over the last 1.5 years, nor gotten any reply on my e-mails.

I just would like to know if there is something that will be delivered in the future.

Best regards

Luc from Luxembourg

and you haven't learned anything and are still up to your old scumbag ways of doing business. Funny that you refuse to allow the forum to be a tool for anyone to communicate with you:


Originally Posted by Luxluc;4184419 dated 2/8/2012
No kit and no e-mail so far

I don't have to slander you. Your ex-business partners have plenty to say. I suppose you will use your mad lawyering skills to bring me down a notch? I heard about how FOS you were with regard to this too. that your previous fanbois never come to your rescue anymore says plenty. It's just a matter of time before everyone else hears the tales they tell ...


.

Last edited by TeamRX8; 02-10-2012 at 05:38 PM.
Old 02-10-2012 | 06:02 PM
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I used mazdatrix's flange and 304ss tube, its been a year and no issues, with the manifold
Old 02-10-2012 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Your ex-business partners have plenty to say. I suppose you will use your mad lawyering skills to bring me down a notch? I heard about how FOS you were with regard to this too.
I've stayed out of his way because he has stayed out of mine. If thought there was anything to gain in saying anything about him, I would have done it by now. But, he is broke and has no tangible assets (other than his car, which is in Easy's name so he can get around his DUI license revocation and register it in Arizona). Blood from a stone isn't a useful tactic.
I'm not sure what "mad lawyering" skills you are referring to. It was always Ray that fancied himself the lawyer. Don't ever get him started on "US Uniform Code". You'll be there for an hour.
I am aware of all the back-hall whispering. It clearly isn't having any real effect on what I do.

Originally Posted by TeamRX8
that your previous fanbois never come to your rescue anymore says plenty. It's just a matter of time before everyone else hears the tales they tell ...
.
What "fanbois" and what would they be rescuing me from?

As far as the kit shipments - I laid all of that out there back then. Nothing has changed.

Instead of wasting your time on me, shouldn't you be out looking for a job or something?
Old 02-10-2012 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
and he's an outright liar to boot


The easiest stainless steel flange to fabricate a manifold from would be the Racing Beat stainless header flange because it is already configured with round outlet stubs. You will need to put a block plate on the air injection pipe flange.
I get it team, you don't like MM; or what he did or didn't do, or anything he has touched or even thought about. Can't you just let the conversation in the thread go without bringing all of that up. You have been here forever and no doubt have a lot of knowledge, but could you please learn to let a thread have comments from both you and MM without attacking him at the drop of a hat. I am by no means defending him, honestly I rather stay out of it, but if I wanted to read about it I would go to the good guy/bad guy thread. Just keep this conversation where it belongs.

I really do look up to you for your knowledge, but the last few months you have just been on a tear on the forums as far as attacking people you disagree with or don't like. I may not be a rotary genius, but I am a smart enough person to see how annoying it is to the casual observer. If this lands me on your "**** list' so be it. But I am just speaking up to let you know how childish and unproductive it looks to the rest of us. Do us all a favor and spend your time sharing your extensive knowledge.
Old 02-10-2012 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by WingleBeast
If this lands me on your "**** list' so be it.
there is no list, we simply disagree and I never take someone else's opinion personal, yet you are just like everyone else always trying to twist it that way. The situation involving Jeff has nothing to do with me liking him or not. Other members are getting burned and otherwise mistreated by a forum vendor. So apparently you don't really get it.

Several people who paid in full for a turbo kit multiple years ago didn't get it. I get annoyed too, like the double standard people have. If Scott Glasburn was posting here there would be a riot and the same people who say they are annoyed by me would be participating in it.

and for future reference if you don't want to see something discussed in a thread then the last thing you should do is post a reply about it. You can't say your reply is justified and the other person's isn't. 9 times out of 10 this is what happens and then a number of starting adding on trying to blame someone else but refusing to acknowledge their own complicity in doing exactly what they are complaining about. If you really felt the need to make your post directly at me you could have easily sent a PM rather than adding to what you are complaining about it. Maybe try to get that ...
Old 02-11-2012 | 12:06 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
The situation involving Jeff has nothing to do with me liking him or not. Other members are getting burned and otherwise mistreated by a forum vendor. So apparently you don't really get it.

Several people who paid in full for a turbo kit multiple years ago didn't get it.
One person - ONE - has yet to receive his kit. ONE.

You like to equate me to Glassburn in hopes that the collective short memory of this forum will make that equivocation valid.
But disappearing with tens of thousands of dollars in orders outstanding and taking customer's cars with him as well as E-Baying those customer's car parts and using them as 5-figure guinea pigs and cash cows will never appear in even the most sideways view of a casual observer to be close to the same situation as mine.
Your petty, jealous vendetta is so remarkably transparent that it is embarrassing.
It has been fun to watch you slowly unravel for these last few months but I think even you can see that WingleBeast's point is valid - anything you might ever contribute here is so tainted by your bile that it is completely invalidated.

Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I never take someone else's opinion personal, yet you are just like everyone else always trying to twist it that way.
You know - just like everyone else observing here - that this is a complete lie. Face it: You take EVERYTHING personally.
Old 02-11-2012 | 01:09 AM
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No, you just read into it that way. You can ask anybody that I have ever assisted that thought this, including yourself. The most recent one is member hamlinsteve who I shipped an engine coolant manifold out to at no charge including the shipping. There's OD, who i gave at no charge a perfectly good engine with only 7000 miles on it after his blew up. Yourself, who I shipped at no charge or cost a pair of perfectly good low mile rotor housings. Do I need to go on because there are many, many more. My seller/buyer rep is flawless as well.

This is just another of your lies, not mine. When you got caught red-handed in your all turbos shipped lie the Six Million Excuse Man came up with a new one to cover his tracks. You are the proven liar. And BTW, it's one person that didn't receive his kit that you still refuse to communicate with and another that didn't receive his kit that you refused to assist. Considering how you hung Ray's dirty laundry out in public, or your attempted comment about my employment status despite my having been working since the end of October, or the 5 months for which I was unemployed that I was properly prepared and continued unassisted with the same unimpeded lifestyle including racing all over the US without offering any excuses or hurting anyone else in the process that you're describing your own actions. Not to mention that's not what WingleBeast said so try reading it again.

However, he did ask to take it out of this thread, so what do you say we take it to the Bad Guy thread where LuxLuc is still sitting SOL with zero communication from you?

.

Last edited by TeamRX8; 02-11-2012 at 01:33 AM.
Old 02-11-2012 | 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
The easiest stainless steel flange to fabricate a manifold from would be the Racing Beat stainless header flange because it is already configured with round outlet stubs. You will need to put a block plate on the air injection pipe flange.
Yea after I asked about it, I noticed they also sell a cast stainless flange, that is an option as well. Thanks

Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
I 304ss.
I have my own flanges water-jet cut in 1/2 304SS.
I can get extras if you need them.
Email coming your way.

Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
I used mazdatrix's flange and 304ss tube, its been a year and no issues, with the manifold
I saw that flange as well, it's the same Mild Steel flange that Racing Beat sells, same part number it's just not labeled as such. I don't think it would cause a problem but if I can I'd prefer to use all stainless.



Alright now come on guys lets try to keep this thread on topic!

Thanks
Old 02-11-2012 | 07:40 AM
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Not only did Team give me the engine --I was about to sell out and his support changed my mind. He gets frustrated with me at times, but so does my own family. He demands more from me than I display in my posts and most of the time he is right. It has started making me more careful about what I say on the forum. I do get hair brained ideas (really?) and I have a history of just throwing it out there.
Sorry for the thread jack Op--i just wanted to say that.
Old 02-11-2012 | 10:29 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Interesting, is the coolant being fed to the CHRA from the little nipple at the rear rotor housing on the passenger side? I cut into the heater circuit, But I never thought of just eliminating the coolant going to the TB and using that circuit.
I too used the TB circuit to feed mine.
Old 02-11-2012 | 02:57 PM
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it would make a lot more sense to feed it off the cold side discharge of the radiator

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...1-details.aspx
Old 02-11-2012 | 08:12 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by olddragger
Not only did Team give me the engine --I was about to sell out and his support changed my mind. He gets frustrated with me at times, but so does my own family. He demands more from me than I display in my posts and most of the time he is right. It has started making me more careful about what I say on the forum. I do get hair brained ideas (really?) and I have a history of just throwing it out there.
Sorry for the thread jack Op--i just wanted to say that.
"Just throwing out harebrained ideas" is what started us on the path to the Moon.
Old 02-11-2012 | 08:55 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
it would make a lot more sense to feed it off the cold side discharge of the radiator

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...1-details.aspx
I would agree from a cooling stand point, except I'm wondering if it's just adding another thing to the system that could fail and cost a turbo.
Old 02-11-2012 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
it would make a lot more sense to feed it off the cold side discharge of the radiator
No.

You want to cool the turbo with the hottest water in the system.
The turbo is way more hot than the water will be when it arrives there and it will then benefit the most from the pass through the radiator that follows because of the greater temperature delta.
Also, you won't be pre-heating the water before you put it into the engine.

The turbo doesn't need the water to be particularly cool. It isn't a performance thing. It is just bearing longevity that is being promoted by water cooling.
Old 02-11-2012 | 11:51 PM
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Always need to go from coolest to warmest in a coolant system, that way the water has thermal capacity at each step up in cooling.
Old 02-12-2012 | 02:01 AM
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Adding anything to a system can increase the likelihood of a failure, including adding a turbocharger or writing a post that makes you look silly.

What I am saying is to take coolant from the cold discharge outlet of the radiator, to the turbo, and then back to the hot intake inlet side of the radiator. Leave the actual engine cooling out of the turbo loop. The turbo cooling is on it's own loop. You can wire in a light for pump failure, you can set it up on a timer to run after shutdown rather than rely on thermal siphoning, the turbo orientation/position is less constrained particularly for an oil-less setup, for an oil-less CHRA the water cooling setup is imperative, etc. etc.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...er_Cooling.pdf
Old 02-12-2012 | 08:32 AM
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yall know I have mentioned Microblue metal conditioning and coating several times. He has done a good bit of work on diesel tractor pullers which have turbos. Supposedly these engines are the hardest on turbos than any other? There has been excellent results. So if heat is having a bad affect on the turbo parts--check his site out. This stuff is for real--it is not just another coating company. Its not some mysterious coating, its a well known substance, but what makes it different from the others is his process.
Take it for what it is worth.
Old 02-12-2012 | 09:16 AM
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Thanks for that Garrett paper, good read.
Old 02-12-2012 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
yall know I have mentioned Microblue metal conditioning and coating several times. He has done a good bit of work on diesel tractor pullers which have turbos. Supposedly these engines are the hardest on turbos than any other? There has been excellent results. So if heat is having a bad affect on the turbo parts--check his site out. This stuff is for real--it is not just another coating company. Its not some mysterious coating, its a well known substance, but what makes it different from the others is his process.
Take it for what it is worth.
is this one of you toss it on the wall ideas?

an idea is better than none.. an informed idea is worth someone else trying.. but someone has to do it! thanks for all you do denny! nice to see it pays of sometimes.

beers
Old 02-12-2012 | 11:15 PM
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I feed my turbo from the rad line that goes to the heater core. so Engine, Turbo, Heater core, to radiator.
Old 02-12-2012 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by swoope
you do upgrades?



beers
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
and he's an outright liar to boot


The easiest stainless steel flange to fabricate a manifold from would be the Racing Beat stainless header flange because it is already configured with round outlet stubs. You will need to put a block plate on the air injection pipe flange.
wow,

the words change and it was not me..

beers
Old 02-12-2012 | 11:56 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by swoope
you do upgrades?



beers
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
and he's an outright liar to boot


The easiest stainless steel flange to fabricate a manifold from would be the Racing Beat stainless header flange because it is already configured with round outlet stubs. You will need to put a block plate on the air injection pipe flange.

wow,

dont miss qoute me.. somehow RIPPOFFS got thrust into my post. i have no dog in this fight. just learning..

beers
Old 02-12-2012 | 11:58 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
writing a post that makes you look silly.
Then stop saying stupid things, actually read the white-papers you post, get out the TIG and actually build something, test it and see what happens and - taking a tip from some of your proteges - stop trying to reinvent the wheel from the perspective that it is a device that causes the earth to move under the cart.

It is surely an interesting world in which to live - one where your create new physics to support you fantasies - but most of us that actually do this stuff haven't that luxury.

Originally Posted by FazdaRX_8
I feed my turbo from the rad line that goes to the heater core. so Engine, Turbo, Heater core, to radiator.
This is an OK way to do it, but the heater core should come before the turbo for a number of reasons.
The water will be cooler after the heater core, so you will subject toe core and the associated plumbing to less stress as well as supplying the turbo with slightly cooler water.
Also, the turbo passes less water through it than the heater can, so it acts like a restriction. You will want this restriction after the core rather than before it.

Last edited by MazdaManiac; 02-13-2012 at 12:54 AM.


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