Talic

yeah its fun but also a pain in the ***
but i bet fabbing up the topmounts arent fun either
but once again i give huge props to rotorrocks
not only did he do the rear turbo he did it 3 times (2 at rear 1 mid like the greddy)
im still complimenting the mid like greddy since i wont have a cat, its alot of prime realestate there. the issue comes to the charge piping.
i fired up the bosses custom chopper and his 100th (or higher i cant remeber) anniversary harley and damn do i miss the catless smell of bikes, atvs and snowmobiles

Talic

bhr rad in.
runs much cooler, fans never kick in even with a/c on
very nice.

bhr rad, mazmart pump/stat, mm's cobb flash, 9s all the way around, raceroots 7L oilpan with 5w60 synthedic and mazmarts oil pressure adaptor
really makes her cool even over 30C cant wait to test at 45C which will be soon out here

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

I don't remember seeing an intercooler listed. If not good. What are your AIT's?

Talic

im still working on the intercooler.
im thinking 20ishx8x4 or in that ballpark
i dont want to block too much of the rad since it gets hot out here
something along alines of the stock greddy one just perhaps deeper
theres millions of shots out here that make them for cheap
or once upon a time when i get time i may fab the ends myself then buy the core.

the boost controller hasnt been chosen yet either

Talic

yay!!!!!

found out that the 13b-msp has more egt's then my blown mopar 440
or at least a mixture of wrap and the humidity in the UAE eats through metal headers faster then a fat kit on a smartee
the shared rotor pipe burnt a hole into the front rotor pipe
throwing a chunk of steel through my cat and out the back

all this time i was messing around with fuel pump and it was probibly the 2 damaged o2 sensors, hole and missing cat.

funny thing was no real sound increase the wrap was so nicely done that it was channeling all the sound/exhaust between the 2 pipes.

but i think the 7500rpm+ was caused by the 2- o2s missing 1/2 of the o2 sensor head.
would also explain the random rattles in the exhaust.

im working on a revision this time ill just send it for ceramic coating back to using the beater shop truck again -tear-

YaXMaNGTO

some of the guys I've talked to don't ceramic coat for fear of pieces coming off and damaging the turbo. is that just a myth?

Talic

okay well into the project now
got some modified pipes out for ceramic as we speek

but while ive got your attention ran into a bit of a hiccup
while removing the uim i broke one of the nipples for the vacuum solinoid
from what i remember (2 hours ago it happened) it was for the vdi (the one that connects front and rear rotors)
not sure yet if its too important in the fi aspect

however the bonus is it looks like the vacuum solinoids are the same
i am removing the airpump since theres no smog regulations here so i could probibly just move it to the airpump solinoid and switch the harness around
any idea if that would work or should i just leave it locked closed?

another quick question
its been since 2007 since ive opened up a renesis
but are the outter two injectors (most front most rear) are to be replaced with the upgraded injectors correct?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

No problem to swap the solenoids around they are identical. Seeing as you only need one of the three now it is a good idea to remove the extra ones block off the vac ports and tie up the unused plugs . Makes taking the uim off and on much easier and saves you making a mistake. You tend to forget what goes where after a while .

BTW - the plug that went to the vdi- i use it to power a shift light/buzzer and change the rpm to what i want with my flash tuner .

gregs

iTrader: (7)

if you are talking about replacing the p2 injectors, which are the most popular injectors to replace, they are the 2 inner (middle) injectors

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Nice build. Sucks about the header though.

Talic

headers back and purdy
i love ceramicing!!!
all my big blocks got em and i love em to death

the steel i used this time is a bit more dense
which was a pain in the *** the bend out properly without ruining the flow with wripples
i have it ending with a 70mm flange this time
changed the bung location closer to a better flow area
no longer going to run the 2x exhaust and already changed the turbo back to a single flange

most likely 70mm or 3 inch out to the rear

today i should have the injectors in after work and start restoring the uim
hard to do pics because it gets dark here around 6pm
and i wont start working on it till after 5pm
but i can take pictures the following morning

after uim is done i will most likely finish off the turbo mount
and modify the oem airbox as i would like to keep it inplace and run the pipes through it
to keep a more stealth appearance plus the plastics makes the bay look neet compared to it being fully open.

back to injectors

my big 840ccs should be in the middle?
my last car i ran them on the outer.... perhaps because the centrifical didnt need the extra till after 7k

anyways got it figured out sorta
guess i need to spend a couple hours searching this again

basically from front to rear on the rail should be
380 840 840 380
reds will remain

Talic

headers are in pictures to follow probibly after my trip to turkey
ill be back april 1st

i threw the 840s in the middle of the fuel rail i hope this is correct
i also removed the airpump and its down pipe
the uim is reinstalled after everything throughly cleaned

correct me if im wrong but the solinoids run from bottom to top
black white blue

black for vdi
white for ssv
blue for airpump

also while i was there i modified the throttle body bypass even futher
running from the back directly to the thromostat using only 1 line insted of having 3

perhaps tomorrow i will make the turbo bracket, turbo exhaust, and plumming the wastegate and work towards the front and start removing the tranny for the clutch/flywheel

and if im lucky enough to find a nice enough container i will make a large 2 stroke holder were the airpump was..
failing so i might make it from stainless or aluminum but id rather have clear plastic or perhaps i can rig up a spy glass or level pipe or whatnot its called

Talic

okay i hope i did this right
search engine is useless
i cant find mm's drawing for the injectors
so i made my own

red are P1s 290cc oem
Yellow are S1s 380cc oem
Green is P2s 840cc Modified

i hope i dont need to pull it off again in the dark lol

Talic

okay ive escaped the deadly volcano
i was stuck in germany for 5 extra days then supposed to.


anways turbo is mounted. hopefully this week or next the remaining of the exhaust pipe work will be done.
with this months pay cheque (ina week) the intercooler and cold side piping will be in.

one thing i cant find is a decent scavaging pump.
any ideas or suggestions?

also was thinking of having its own resivior as it already has its own intercooler and fan.
or should i trouble myself to run it to my oversized raceroots pan?

two i know its been asked a million times but i like how both look and would be nice on the steering collum but the AEM afr guage and AEM tru boost...
any comments on them?

the three items to complete my build will be purchased at the end of the week and hopefully from 2-3 weeks from now the car will be drivable.

-prays to the MazdaManiac god-
i hope you will still help tune me out.
lucky for me a close friend just bought a brand new dyno that i can use any time.
plus lots and lots of street tuning.

-hugs the cobb-

one thing i hate though about the clear trouble codes is it resets the learning computer
but a couple of rpms and kms later its alright. just kinda annoying....

Kane

iTrader: (1)

http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...d.php?p=108981 - Ran a seperate sump pump and resevoir in the trunk. Looked good when I saw it last, just the MAF pipe and injectors were hosed. I had to deploy before it was finished and ready to be tuned.

Cobb will clear trouble codes forever.

Your injector map is correct.

Talic

okay back into the real world now
ive got a 8x22x2.5 core intercooler that i will try to mount today
my new 02s came in.
i have everything except some pipes/sleeves/fittings boost controller and a/f ratio monitoring
so hopefully once this mercedies im working gets completed like monday i should have alot of free time to work on it.
if im lucky it will be driving this month
-hugs MazdaManiac- please dont forget me
and im sure ill play around with your software Kane

Turblown

That is myth.

Talic

okay i am doing up my recirc fitting i need suggestions which is best style
(keep in mind its not to scale nor accurate its just to demonstright what i am asking)

also would 2 liters with an intercoler/fan of oil be suitable to lubricate a turbo?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

first setup will work the best I would think . Definately not 3 .

Talic

hopefully tomorrow will be my first engine start (open header and no exhaust connected to turbo)
just to see if theres any oil leaks and to see if theres any issues with extending the maf to the rear.
if everything is go perhaps monday/tuesday the car will get its exhaust then start tuning.

Talic

ran into a snag but hopefully corrected today.
i have to change the design of one charge pipe that goes from the starter to the intercooler.
unfortunatly the raceroots oilpan really screwed me as it took up the prime location for the charge pipe.
i may have to remove it and do some mods to it or remove it all together and get a greddy one.
aside from that things should go smoothly

Talic

yay engine starts first turn
no check engines and revs to 3k
now to rig up the last part of exhaust and oiling system for the turbo
by next thursday ill have driving/tuning videos

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

progressing well man - GL with the tuning ...

Talic

car is down and running
sounds so good ill do a sound bite tomorrow but without exhaust pipe to turbo (2 glass packs only... 3rd glass pack is after turbo)
as my designed self contained oil system failed.
i ordered a sandwich plate hopefully it will be soon to go to boost.

left to do:

remaining oil system
vacuum system
wire guages/controller
tuning

would assume the rb sandwich plate would not be suitable for a oil out/in system
from the pictures it looks like its just a pressured chamber and not seperate
so would be difficult to use it that way it should be 2 seperate chambers for in/out style?

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

you should run the return line to the oil pan.