rear mount turbo project
01-28-2011, 10:25 PM
#182
well the fuel pumped is swapped, injectors i hope and believe are correctand electrical is done unless i add a EGT gauge.
i think im going to redo the scoop and undertray because i dont like the way it sits with the new c west bumper being lower by alittle.
i only can think of one issue i have read about the greddy profec b spec 2. The way the manual states to hook up the solenoid for a external wastegate is incorrect. pressure source to NC port and COM to wastegate (lower port C on synapse wastegate used to open).
It should be hooked up the way described for internal. pressure source to NO port and COM to wastegate (lower port C on synapse wastegate used to open).
This has been stated quite a few places. Any imput from people running this BC
i think im going to redo the scoop and undertray because i dont like the way it sits with the new c west bumper being lower by alittle.
i only can think of one issue i have read about the greddy profec b spec 2. The way the manual states to hook up the solenoid for a external wastegate is incorrect. pressure source to NC port and COM to wastegate (lower port C on synapse wastegate used to open).
It should be hooked up the way described for internal. pressure source to NO port and COM to wastegate (lower port C on synapse wastegate used to open).
This has been stated quite a few places. Any imput from people running this BC
01-31-2011, 03:49 PM
#183
i re did the undertray today. heres the picture before i cut the hole for the intercooler. fully intact it was just heavier than stock. instead of the scoop it will now be open to the ground. I need to find something to seal the edges where the intercooler and tray yet. maybe some outdoor foam or rubber strips. Also will either paint or powder coat black when it warms up.
02-06-2011, 06:28 PM
#184
I did a first start up today after I resolved a grounding issue on the bhr coils and got the car unflooded. I have a small leak on the greddy oil pan. I should have used rtv instead of the Honda sealent. also the o ring by the electrical connection I will replace when I pull the pan again. now my second issue. I started the motor let it run then shut down all warmed up. I then started let it run with a few revs to 4k(charge pipe unhooked) then shut down with 4k rev. I then walked to the back of the car to find a slight bit of oil in the exhaust pipe. this may have been because the oil pump was turned off on second start up. is there a way to check if the pressure is too high for the feed?
my set up uses the mazmart oil pressure mod. then on the RB sandwich plate using the 3/8" port it tees straight to the pressure sender. from there it drops and runs to the back of the car. it is a 3/8" Id line (alittle tighter than 1/4" ill have to find out exact specs tomorrow). then it goes to a 10 micron inline filter. then a 4an line to the turbo. the turbo has a. 035 restricted fitting. from there it goes to a 10an drain to the smallest RB racing pump. check valve on the return side. then 3/8" to oil pan return.
my set up uses the mazmart oil pressure mod. then on the RB sandwich plate using the 3/8" port it tees straight to the pressure sender. from there it drops and runs to the back of the car. it is a 3/8" Id line (alittle tighter than 1/4" ill have to find out exact specs tomorrow). then it goes to a 10 micron inline filter. then a 4an line to the turbo. the turbo has a. 035 restricted fitting. from there it goes to a 10an drain to the smallest RB racing pump. check valve on the return side. then 3/8" to oil pan return.
Last edited by bumblebeerx8; 02-06-2011 at 09:20 PM.
02-06-2011, 08:54 PM
#185
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
You mean Mazmart oil pressure mod 
Okay, so I have given this some thought. From the turbo to the pump is a -10 AN line?
I am thinking your problem would disappear w=once the oil is heated up but also the pump being off could have played a part as well. Not comparable to your setup but I have seen people have the problem with the wrong size return line on the old Turbo Eclipses.
I also read up a bit and this can also happen if the return line is kinked or has trap (think of the pipe under your sink). But you have a pump and it was not on so that is not your issue.
The only way to know for sure would let it idle and warm up completely but if the pressure is actually too much then you could damage the turbo.
I would address the leaks, hook everything up properly and try again with the oil pump on.
Okay, so I have given this some thought. From the turbo to the pump is a -10 AN line?
I am thinking your problem would disappear w=once the oil is heated up but also the pump being off could have played a part as well. Not comparable to your setup but I have seen people have the problem with the wrong size return line on the old Turbo Eclipses.
I also read up a bit and this can also happen if the return line is kinked or has trap (think of the pipe under your sink). But you have a pump and it was not on so that is not your issue.
The only way to know for sure would let it idle and warm up completely but if the pressure is actually too much then you could damage the turbo.
I would address the leaks, hook everything up properly and try again with the oil pump on.
02-06-2011, 09:34 PM
#186
You mean Mazmart oil pressure mod
Okay, so I have given this some thought. From the turbo to the pump is a -10 AN line?
I am thinking your problem would disappear w=once the oil is heated up but also the pump being off could have played a part as well. Not comparable to your setup but I have seen people have the problem with the wrong size return line on the old Turbo Eclipses
oil was at 126 degrees so not really heated up but it was running for a bit. btw using 5w30 royal purple. i had to use up the royal purple i had here but will be changing to something different next oil change.
I also read up a bit and this can also happen if the return line is kinked or has trap (think of the pipe under your sink). But you have a pump and it was not on so that is not your issue.
The only way to know for sure would let it idle and warm up completely but if the pressure is actually too much then you could damage the turbo.
I would address the leaks, hook everything up properly and try again with the oil pump on.
again thanks for any help. btw the exhaust was quieter than i thought it would be too.
Last edited by bumblebeerx8; 02-06-2011 at 10:50 PM.
02-06-2011, 11:19 PM
#188
02-06-2011, 11:34 PM
#190
On remote turbo's, I saw it happen if the scanvenger pump was off.
The oil backs up in the line and starts to leak out the seals. What is your oil pressure to the turbo? I would imagine it would have to be very very high to leak past the seals.
If you have your pump off, I would say that was the most likely problem.
The oil backs up in the line and starts to leak out the seals. What is your oil pressure to the turbo? I would imagine it would have to be very very high to leak past the seals.
If you have your pump off, I would say that was the most likely problem.
02-07-2011, 12:17 AM
#191
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
^ I think Kane is right. Also, I double checked the extra oil pan I have and the sensor does not appear to have an O ring or washer of any kind. If you have the C clip on correctly it should seal up. I would recheck it. Tomorrow I will try and remove the sensor just to be sure nothing is hidden.
02-07-2011, 01:18 AM
#192
cool thanks 9k and kane. at the front of the car i seen pressure reaching close to 90psi. i did not want to rev the car too high based on how stuff is set up currently. but i know for sure the turbo is not seeing any where near that pressure through the bullhead of a TEE, 15' of stainless tubing, then the filter, then restrictor at the turbo.
9k the o ring im thinking of (if its there)you would not be able to see unless the sensor plug was out.
9k the o ring im thinking of (if its there)you would not be able to see unless the sensor plug was out.
Last edited by bumblebeerx8; 02-07-2011 at 11:45 AM.
02-07-2011, 11:42 AM
#193
I talked to majestic turbo today. After talks with their tech we are on agreement that the oil feed and scanvage lines are good though he doesnt like my inline filter. with further talks he seems to think it could have been a oil/fuel mix from the motor. this could very well be due to ignition issues and flooding, then trying to get the car started for the first time. Also another issue could have been the charge pipe opened up and the pressure differental between the turbine and compressor side for a split second. he told me to run the car and do from their and to call back if i had issues.
02-07-2011, 03:38 PM
#194
RotoRocks Powered
You have oil in the exhaust because your scavenge pump was off.
I had my scavenge pump wired to come on with the ignition on. you always want to run the pump a little before start, to drain the oil that may have gotten into the turbo while the car was off. and same thing after the engine is shut down: turn off the motor, and run the scavenge pump for like 10-20 sec. Remember, the oil pump is still pumping while the engine is turning after you shut it off, and so with the scavenge pump off, the oil was still going in and with nowhere to go, it leaked through the bearings and into your intake/exhaust.
Also don't worry too much about oil cooking in the bearings of the turbo so far back. the temps at which the turbo runs in the back are hundreds of degrees lower.
I had oil in the exhaust all the time when turning my car on and after 30K or whatnot very abusive miles, when I disassembled the turbo it was in excellent condition.
Have fun post vids of her running. 
I had my scavenge pump wired to come on with the ignition on. you always want to run the pump a little before start, to drain the oil that may have gotten into the turbo while the car was off. and same thing after the engine is shut down: turn off the motor, and run the scavenge pump for like 10-20 sec. Remember, the oil pump is still pumping while the engine is turning after you shut it off, and so with the scavenge pump off, the oil was still going in and with nowhere to go, it leaked through the bearings and into your intake/exhaust.
Also don't worry too much about oil cooking in the bearings of the turbo so far back. the temps at which the turbo runs in the back are hundreds of degrees lower.
I had oil in the exhaust all the time when turning my car on and after 30K or whatnot very abusive miles, when I disassembled the turbo it was in excellent condition.
Have fun
post vids of her running. I did a first start up today after I resolved a grounding issue on the bhr coils and got the car unflooded. I have a small leak on the greddy oil pan. I should have used rtv instead of the Honda sealent. also the o ring by the electrical connection I will replace when I pull the pan again. now my second issue. I started the motor let it run then shut down all warmed up. I then started let it run with a few revs to 4k(charge pipe unhooked) then shut down with 4k rev. I then walked to the back of the car to find a slight bit of oil in the exhaust pipe. this may have been because the oil pump was turned off on second start up. is there a way to check if the pressure is too high for the feed?
my set up uses the mazmart oil pressure mod. then on the RB sandwich plate using the 3/8" port it tees straight to the pressure sender. from there it drops and runs to the back of the car. it is a 3/8" Id line (alittle tighter than 1/4" ill have to find out exact specs tomorrow). then it goes to a 10 micron inline filter. then a 4an line to the turbo. the turbo has a. 035 restricted fitting. from there it goes to a 10an drain to the smallest RB racing pump. check valve on the return side. then 3/8" to oil pan return.
my set up uses the mazmart oil pressure mod. then on the RB sandwich plate using the 3/8" port it tees straight to the pressure sender. from there it drops and runs to the back of the car. it is a 3/8" Id line (alittle tighter than 1/4" ill have to find out exact specs tomorrow). then it goes to a 10 micron inline filter. then a 4an line to the turbo. the turbo has a. 035 restricted fitting. from there it goes to a 10an drain to the smallest RB racing pump. check valve on the return side. then 3/8" to oil pan return.
02-07-2011, 03:45 PM
#195
thanks for some more insite. im pulling the pan tomorrow and redoing the seal and maybe a o ring. i didnt want to get started today and not finish before school. ill pry start it again thursday and will do a video this time around. if i still get the oil leaking by the seals after shut down ill just throw another check valve in pre turbo. that would be after all option are exhausted
Last edited by bumblebeerx8; 02-10-2011 at 07:38 AM.
02-11-2011, 03:31 PM
#196
well i wanted to get a 6th gauge in may car but i didnt have a spot open. i also did not want a lotek or a pillar set up because those spots are covered with yellow suede and suede does not form to shapes like that. so i got to thinking i want the gauge easy to see because it will be the boost or A/F. I thought on the steering column would be a great place. I did not want to cover any thing in the gauge cluster that was important i.e. speed,Rpm, dash lights. so here is what i came up with. it does cover part of the odometer when you look at it straight on, but you can still look through the steering wheel and see it. just needs a little sanding and paint after it dries
FRONT
FROM DRIVER SIDE
FROM PASSANGER SIDE
FRONT
FROM DRIVER SIDE
FROM PASSANGER SIDE
02-11-2011, 06:27 PM
#198
These are nice .... they come with single gauges too!
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...od-for-the-Rx8
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...od-for-the-Rx8
