did you do anything to the intake ports, or just round-out the exhaust a little? Your talking about 15HP gain you think? Hmmmm.... considering how hard it is to find HP for this car, I might have to do this....

-MD

 

i basically rounded off the secondary and aux. ports, but i did bring the primaries up a bit and epoxy-backfilled the sharp turn-in radius. that brought up the power without hurting the low end.

 

here's an update:

i had to drive a 2 1/2 hour round trip (not including the time i spent on the car) down the hill to the body shop to unflood the thing. the dood at the body shop started out as a total *******--wannabe know-it-all.

i love when he was standing over my shoulder telling me i wasn't gonna be able to fix it... pulled the egi inj fuse, cranked WOT for 10 seconds, popped it back in, and it fired right up. snoochie totally owes me dinner next time i see him :D

the oil level was past full though...those ***** mast have flooded the royal **** out of that thing. oil change first thing when snoochie picks it up!!

 

Sounds like fun.
Did you slap them?

 

Yeah I owe you more than dinner, beer for sure on top of it. Ima pick it up on monday and change the oil promptly. So the next plan is the microtech? Is it already available and if so how much does it cost to get one?

 

e-manage ultimate?

 

actually, if we can convince the haltech to understand the crank trigger wheel, we cna use that. it's got a lot more options and would be better suited for this.

we COULD use an s4 or s5 front cover, give the haltech a signal from the fc crank sensor, then built a bracket for the stock rx8 crank sensor, but that's a lot of work, and we'd lose the renesis water pump.

maybe---MAY-B, we can use another wheel on the outside of the belts, but i hate chancing it being damaged if a belt ever decided to let go. belt can snap, bend that wheel around, computer freaks out and shoots random spark, then boom.

we try to avoid boom

oh yea, i talked with chris green, and he said a wolf might be able to work. i'll bump heads with him and see what the story is.

 

GJ, Let's think about this, if you have a control that will solve my problems also I will make a new pulley set up that has the timing teeth machined into the pulley for the extra timing device. I would just make a new lower pulley out of one peice of aluminum including both belts and cut the teeth in a thick front lip. That wouldn't be a big project, but I'm not going to do it for a one off thing, sorry. If there is a future in it for my aux nozzle application then we should talk.

 

richard, i'm guilty of not keeping up with your thread. can you tel me what pages to read to find out your problem? or you can always give me a call. i like talking to you anyway.

we'll see how much we can get figured out.

 

You can go to my thread and start around 119 that's where I got my car. There is a dyno chart in there somewhere. But basicly I still think it's a aux port problem. I've gotten it better but not gotten the curve right.

Thye problem I alude to in the text above is after the SC install. I want to add aux nozzles before the SC inlet and have them come on when man goes positive. I want to leave the stock mapa alone and only add for he extra air with the aux nozzles. The only trouble I see is the std ECU going crazy when it reads more air going in then it was told it can have, then going into some limp home mode.

 

i couldn't find your dyno sheet.

but you'd be a good guinea pig for the ems. unfortunately, it won't help develop the kit. you want me to bring the ob2 scanner and canscan over and have a look at things?

 

I think I had it put up by someone on their server and it may be down. I'd love to have you look at my car if you would. I was about to take it apart to start the blower install but that can wait. I really can't do the blower untill it is fixed. If their is something internal then the blower will just make it worse. Mazda went over all the data in it and said they couldn't find anything. But it still doesn't run right and the dyno shows it. If you find something we can put it back on the dyno while you are here, it's just down the street and I can go there without an appointment if I want.

I can't find you number so get me a PM with it and we can talk. Or you know the E mail I think, we should trade those numbers anyway.

 

This is great stuff to see you guys working together!

I get all tingly inside!!

 

working together?
naw, i'm jut trying to get close so i can jack oneof the sc's for my fd :D

 

Am I correct in saying, after reading this, that porting is not going to work until someone develops a stand alone ECU.

 

small streetport= no problem
bp...it'd be a good idea

but keep in mind that our problems on the dyno don't reflect the way the car drives. it feels GOOD!! how many guys have you seen have dyno problems with bone-stock cars?

our future plans include a turbo and 300-350 whp, so a stand alone is probably the best way for that. i don't like limp mode

 

The stand alone ECU is possible.............................

We already installed a stand alone ECU,
But it's expensive the ECU is only $2,000.00 plus coils, etc, etc.
My mechanic maked the wiring harness to work with the RX8...............
We control timing, we can make FAR compensation, knock sensor, cut off at expecific
rpm and expecific boost.........................etc, etc.
My problem now is the greddy turbo that is to small, I'm goin to replace it.

Manuel

 

a haltech will do all that...for less money too.

 

All depends on what you whant to control...........

For example,
with our set up we can control the timing for each injector alone and make corrections.
Basically we make corrections or set the car injector per injector.

I agree with you, you can spend less money.
There is a lot of possibilities to use different ECU's to control the Renesis.


Manuel

 

How do you handle the throttle body actuation and port actuation with a stand-alone?

The ideal relationship between throttle pedal position and throttle body position is not linear. The RPM of the engine is important to take into account in determining the proper thottle body position.

 

The ideal T-body position is where my foot says it should be. I don't like it deciding for itself.

 

vdi is a solonoid...no problem
tb will get a cable--what it SHOULD have had in the first place. richard's throttle isn't opening up past 67%! and it STILL made ~25whp over stock.

now the port actuators, on the other hand, aren't so simple.
i was toying with the idea of mounting a door-lock solonoid onto the manifold and actuating them that way, but mayb someone can help me figure out how to actuate them using the stock motor.

if i could get a schematic for the motor itself, it would help things out a lot. worst case scenario, we could always just take them out. not the end of the world, but not quite optimum.

 

The servo-controlled throttlebody does add to performance. It does so by opening only enough to create maximum intake velocity for a given RPM. Just like bigger throttlebodies aren't always better, opening the butterfly fully at low-rpms with a cable is almost certainly not better than the partial opening that the computer will dictate. The only performance improvement a cable-operated throttle will add is potentially improved throttle response.

Richard: the fact that your throttle is only opening 67% might confirm your suspected port-actuation problem. Wide-open throttle is probably only needed for the very top of the powerband. If the ports aren't opening, then the flow will stall in the intake at high rpms, so the computer will reduce the throttle opening to maximize flow into the engine. I wonder if you held the port runner open somehow, if the throttle opening percentage would change on a dyno pull? At least its a thought.

 

Are people getting my problem confused with Snoochies?
I can't recall anyone saying anything about my throtle opening, but it is something to look at.