Return Fuel System
#26
They sure aren't fun It's easier with a vice...but I don't have one anymore. They chew up your fingers too
I cut them with a cutoff wheel..it works well for a nice clean cut...the cleanup sucks though..they get full of small pieces of chewed up rubber..and they need to be washed out.
Soap and water, and dry them with an air hose and they are good to go.
I had to make a wrench to tighten some of the connector...damn there is no room down there
I cut them with a cutoff wheel..it works well for a nice clean cut...the cleanup sucks though..they get full of small pieces of chewed up rubber..and they need to be washed out.
Soap and water, and dry them with an air hose and they are good to go.
I had to make a wrench to tighten some of the connector...damn there is no room down there
#27
BDC Motorsports
Dan, before you put the upper manifold back on, be SURE to prime the fuel pump to test for any static pressure leaks!!!!
Btw, nice job. I remember doing my full parallel system bout 3 yrs ago -- took 2 days to build, 5 more days to fix, and $700 out of pocket.
B
Btw, nice job. I remember doing my full parallel system bout 3 yrs ago -- took 2 days to build, 5 more days to fix, and $700 out of pocket.
B
#30
Diego
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They sure aren't fun It's easier with a vice...but I don't have one anymore. They chew up your fingers too
I cut them with a cutoff wheel..it works well for a nice clean cut...the cleanup sucks though..they get full of small pieces of chewed up rubber..and they need to be washed out.
Soap and water, and dry them with an air hose and they are good to go.
I had to make a wrench to tighten some of the connector...damn there is no room down there
I cut them with a cutoff wheel..it works well for a nice clean cut...the cleanup sucks though..they get full of small pieces of chewed up rubber..and they need to be washed out.
Soap and water, and dry them with an air hose and they are good to go.
I had to make a wrench to tighten some of the connector...damn there is no room down there
#32
Nah, I've got a nice metal shear I've made some positive blades for, put the hose in, pull the handle, et voila, neatly cut hose. I used to use a dremel with a cutoff wheel though - if you do it that way though, wash the lines out before you fit them, as the silicon carbide dust gets everywhere.
#33
Registered
iTrader: (3)
those lines are a bitch and i am still on pain meds from doing mine!!!
Dan--beautiful job dude--cant wait to see how it all works--sure makes it easier for a sump tank doesnt it?!
couple suggestions?
that heater hose in the back on the firewall? route it under the car --through the sub frame--that takes a good bit of heat away from that area. also on the front fuel line --the alternator gets blistering hot--protect your line from it too.
looks like the oil stick will be a little harder to get too? The yellow curl on the end of the stick can be straightened out and a extension jb welded on the tip.
following with interest
olddragger
Dan--beautiful job dude--cant wait to see how it all works--sure makes it easier for a sump tank doesnt it?!
couple suggestions?
that heater hose in the back on the firewall? route it under the car --through the sub frame--that takes a good bit of heat away from that area. also on the front fuel line --the alternator gets blistering hot--protect your line from it too.
looks like the oil stick will be a little harder to get too? The yellow curl on the end of the stick can be straightened out and a extension jb welded on the tip.
following with interest
olddragger
#34
Finally Boosted!!!!!!!
Well....here it is....Pictures aren't the best..but it's snowing outside
Thought that I'd add a list of parts for anyone interested
OBX Fuel rails
4 16mm X -6 AN adapters
4 crush washers
12 feet -6 SS hose
2 X 180 degree -6 to tube
Canton Racing canister fuel filter (1 micron filter) with -6 adapters
Fuel pressure adapter -6 female to -6 male
2 X 90 deg -6 to tube
1 X 45 deg -6 to tube
3 X straight-6 to tube
connectors for FPR..depends on what type you use
I used high pressure rubber tube for the FPR to stock fuel line..and re-used the stock quick connect on both ends...worked well
You also need to modify your fuel pump with a -6AN 90 degree bulkhead fitting and connect the pump the feed line to it
I have to pressurize it next...wish me luck
Thought that I'd add a list of parts for anyone interested
OBX Fuel rails
4 16mm X -6 AN adapters
4 crush washers
12 feet -6 SS hose
2 X 180 degree -6 to tube
Canton Racing canister fuel filter (1 micron filter) with -6 adapters
Fuel pressure adapter -6 female to -6 male
2 X 90 deg -6 to tube
1 X 45 deg -6 to tube
3 X straight-6 to tube
connectors for FPR..depends on what type you use
I used high pressure rubber tube for the FPR to stock fuel line..and re-used the stock quick connect on both ends...worked well
You also need to modify your fuel pump with a -6AN 90 degree bulkhead fitting and connect the pump the feed line to it
I have to pressurize it next...wish me luck
Very Nice Dan! I've seen that FPR before...
#38
Wah hoo...no leaks Damn..I was so worried about that
I won't know if this has been a usable mod for a while...but I sure got a lot more potential fuel flow than I had before...and a lot cooler fuel I would think..no more super heated fuel sitting above the engine for extended periods of time. And hopefully more stable fuel pressures.
I just hope the vent system will be OK with all of that warmish fuel coming back into the tank
I won't know if this has been a usable mod for a while...but I sure got a lot more potential fuel flow than I had before...and a lot cooler fuel I would think..no more super heated fuel sitting above the engine for extended periods of time. And hopefully more stable fuel pressures.
I just hope the vent system will be OK with all of that warmish fuel coming back into the tank
#39
BDC Motorsports
#47
Update:
Ran into a snag with the fuel injectors in the secondary rail. I had 780cc and 380cc stock injectors....and it turned out they were slightly different lengths...so the center 2 injectors were a little shorter than the outside ones. I woke up in the middle of the night last night knowing that I would have ended up with a vac /boost leak if I had left them that way. I couldn't figure out an easy way to modify the injectors I had.......so I ended up going to 4 550cc injectors that were all the correct length..and all is well
Think I averted a potential difficult to diagnose problem
Had to re wire the injector plugs again though...the new one had different plugs
I'm hoping tomorrow will be a more productive day
I did get the rest of the Alky system installed..so all I have left to do on that is to run the feed line from the fuel cell to the manifold..
Ran into a snag with the fuel injectors in the secondary rail. I had 780cc and 380cc stock injectors....and it turned out they were slightly different lengths...so the center 2 injectors were a little shorter than the outside ones. I woke up in the middle of the night last night knowing that I would have ended up with a vac /boost leak if I had left them that way. I couldn't figure out an easy way to modify the injectors I had.......so I ended up going to 4 550cc injectors that were all the correct length..and all is well
Think I averted a potential difficult to diagnose problem
Had to re wire the injector plugs again though...the new one had different plugs
I'm hoping tomorrow will be a more productive day
I did get the rest of the Alky system installed..so all I have left to do on that is to run the feed line from the fuel cell to the manifold..
#49
Funny I was just talking about that with a local club guy tonight.....I just find it a PIA to take pictures as I work. I guess I'm not the best at "playing well with others"
I am making a point of taking more pictures..and I promise I will do a photo shoot with the car before the summer is out.
I am making a point of taking more pictures..and I promise I will do a photo shoot with the car before the summer is out.