rotorocks

Pulled turbo off yesterday (getting ready for the motor rebuild) and examined the pipes. I think my welding has improved quite a bit from when I started it.

Keeping in mind, this is a $120 flux wire welder I bought on ebay. there is not argon bottle or any other shielding gas to help... I want to get one of the better welders sometime later, though.

Spinning Sushi

iTrader: (21)

That looks like a Pepboys filter you're running there.

rotorocks

Autozone, but they all sell the same brand.
I like their filters.

rotorocks

Since the turbo is off, i figured I'll do some work on it.
so as mentioned earlier, I cut off about an inch off the outlet, and attached a 90 extention. Came out pretty well.
By the way, while welding aluminum is a nice to have, a bunch of brasing rords and a torch will get you going in the right direction just as good.







You can see how well the brase has penetrated. It went all the way through and hugged the metal on the inside.


All with the help of a simmple Benzomatic torch


A pic of the compresor wheel.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

It's a Spectre filter. I run the same, works fine, and it's washable.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

MM will be jealous of your welds, Vlad. And he uses an actual welder!

BTW, you weren't welding near as much as you were "soldering".

rotorocks

Well, no the manifold is welded, the turbo outlet isn't. I'll see you in a few, and you can check for yourself.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Remember, Vlad, you're going to pull the engine with your bare hands!

Lift with your knees, that's the key. If you get the engine down to just the LIM and the keg, it only weights around 220-lbs.

rotorocks

Ok, I guess it is time to update this here.
The motor is back and running well. i am still taking it easy with boost as I only put a couple of hundred miles on the motor, so bare with me.
The system however works great, and running now with the waistgate set at 6PSI and virtually no ignition advance. The flow rate of the compressor is so high, that even at this conservative settings, the car feels very fast.

Here is an "inherent" of the new system "feature" which I am looking to tune out presently:

1. APV opening at 6200RPM.
It is a scary ****... It requires quite a bit of tuning to get this to feel OEM like. I really do not like this massive push the car gets when it opens opens.
I mean the transition is really strong and noticeable to the point of almost scary.
I assume that I never had felt this before, because eth old turbo simply couldn't flow enough air to compensate for sudden increase of the intake flow rate, so it just dropped boost. this turbo drops nothing. It drops you back into the sit.

I am blabbering about this for one reason. I don't want that. I want the transition to feel as smooth as possible, and the power delivery to be as progressive as it can be.

The thought behind this, is: if this is to be used for a really high power applications, at the extreme loads the motor and all the components are going to operate, I really do not want any additional and sudden jerks, and yanks on the power train, suspension and so on...

2, I do not look forward to loosing traction in the middle of hard acceleration at high speed. It is plain dangerous.

3. I like the car to be OEM smooth, and the power delivery to be unobtrusive and unnoticeable. (yeah right, unnoticeable )

So with all that said: I am off and back to tuning.

staticlag

I have the same turbo, and I can tell you that the transition is insane!!!

rotorocks

Installed the new BOV yesterday.
again Used the brasing torch to attach the flange to the aluminum pipe. Works really well.

The thing with this bov, is that it stays open and pulls unfiltered air inside when the car idles. Need to pull some sort of a filtration cloth/sock over it.

nmarz77

Looking good! Man....it looks all humid and sticky there....I remember working in that crap.....yuck!

rotorocks

Yeah, it rained like hell all sunday, and through the night.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

if you had the AP you would be able to open the APV sooner wouldn't you ?

rotorocks

Possibly, but i don not have AP and My Intake is located way below...
Actually, as I am tunning it out more, it is not that bad, that thransition. You get used to it and it is somewhat fun. Just when they feel like you are done, suddenly boom... See ya!!

AZ-Rotary

okay, stone me to death with rocks if i didnt notice this but im only on 2 hours on sleep and 2 redbulls so... cut me some slack por favor. Anyways whats the price looking to be on this beast?

my choices are get a stock used 8 or get a already boosted used 8. And i'd rather choose all the upgrades myself.

Basicly i'd be shooting for highest HP possible, out of this kit with upgraded injectors and fuel pump aswell as it being mildly tuned for a daily driver.

But a beast at the strip or drifting.

Eric.

rotorocks

Thanks for your interest Eric.
PM me with what you are looking to accomplish, and I'll get back to you with the quote, or if you just want it a basic setup of it... I am flexible in terms of trying to meet the goal of your setup, and the means of accomplishing it.


Some updates:
I kept on trying to tune the after-APV area and just kept on getting unpredictable results. It would lean out, it would go too rich, this that. I was really getting frustrated, and then decided to log the freaking thing. so I setup the log put it in 2nd gear (cant do 3rd on the streets, too fast) press the "start log" button and let her rip. off course at around 7K i got into some mad bogging and 9AF, then it punches through and suddenly hits 13 (thank god my timing is 0) and I am keeping an eye on my boost gauge and it is showing 10 psi. So I am like WTF? this is annoying.
Then I stopped and looked at the log. And I was like HOLY ****!!!
My auto-meter gauge is soooo full of ****! based on the Int-X log, at 8000 RPM i was at 14 psi. No wonder the damn thing wasn't tuning. I was adjusting the 10PSI area.

But get this: 2nd gear 14 PSI at 8K!!! And that is because I set it there with the boost controller (thinking that it is actually 10 psi)
This turbo is a monster. There is no telling how much air this thing will be able to pump if I turned up the boost ..well there is, but I am just being excited

ok... ok back to work everyone, back to work

SIKROTOR7

damn rocks glad to hear u got ur car running again

kristopher_d

These are the bits I'm interested.


Or, more precisely plans/measurements for them/their jigs.

Good work so far.

staticlag

Which autometer gauge are you using? I haven't had a problem with the mechanical ultralite

rotorocks

Gauge looks like the one you got
I got it at the autozone.

It looks like the guge is accurate but it is not reacting fast enough to the boost fluctuations in the manivold, as the waistgate reaches it's threshold. So it kinda shows the average between the high and the low.

I'll explain:
Your waistgate is already configued and preset by Chris, I guess.
It runs 10PSI off the spring. and that's it.
Mine was as it came from the box with 2 really hard springs installed and 2 more additional on the side)
Right out of the box it was set soo hard, i couldn't even push the valve in with both of my thumbs.

I am tuning the WG now. Got it not to go over 10 psi, but now I need to configure how wide it opens.

It looks like the valve opens too much and because of it the boost is dropped instantly.
The log in chart of the boost curve looks like a smooth line coming up from the start of the pull, but as soon as it hits 10PSI it begins to zig zag up and down from like 10 to 6 psi and back up to 10 for the remainder of the pull.
Hopefully by limiting how wide the walve can swing open, I can limit the amount of pressure drop in the manifold, so eventually it will be able to maintain the set boost rather than dropping it and then trying to regain it.

Mad_kidd

hey if you still making this kits in a year or so, you might have two customers...roughly how much are you looking to sell these kits for?

SoFL_RX8

Vlad my friend... we're gunna be talking very soon about my car. Im almost ready to begin building.

rotorocks

Update:

I am driving with this T70, and although it works, and holds boost and all, I am really not liking it. it is just too slow, and heavy to come alive.
Yes, it will boost fast when I am in over 4K rpm, but below that the thing is such a drag...
Most of the time I feel like I drive a stock car.
Bottom line, T70 is going away in favour of something a bit more peppy. Having gotten used to the fast spooling T3/T04E I had earlier I just can't make myself get used to the heavy t70.

So to feed my need for speed here is what I came up with:

I had 2 turbos laying around:
One is my old T3/T04E with .63 AR hot and .51AR cold side.
Another is a brand new T04B with 1.15AR Hot and .60AR cold.

what is did is this:

Took both of them apart and reassembled into one using turbine wheel and housing from the old T3, brand new bearing assembly from the T4, and compressor wheel and the housing from the T4 which basically made it into an equivalent of what is going to be a fast spooling T3/T04b with .63AR turbo and a very potent .60AR compressor.

Next week I will stick it on my mid mount manifold in place of the t70.
I will remove the big waistgate (though it looks impressive, it is a total overkill in this case) in favour of the internal waistgate that I had on the car before. It worked great so why change it?

Pics of the rebuilt turbocharger:

Old turbo being disassembled


Compressor wheel is off


T3 .63AR turbine housing


another shot of the housing


Having a remote installed turbo does have it's benefits.
Interesting that after over 20K miles the bearings are in perfect condition
there was practically no shaft play at all, there was no carbon found in the bearings either.


This is the where I found the issue: The oil seal on the hot side.
i wrote in my first tread that i had massive oil leaks in the turbo at the very beginning when i just built it. That oil on the turbine housing caused A LOT of carbon build up, as you can clearly see on this and the next image.




now compare it to the new bearing
T4 compressor wheel is sitting next to it


T4 .60AR compressor housing


side by side T3 .63AR turbine wheel and a T4 1.15AR turbine wheel.
They don't seem to be that much of a different size wise. Well they are the latter one is off course bigger, but not by whole lot, most of the difference is in the turbine housing. i forgot to take a pic of the 1.15AR one for comparison.


I had to replace the old oil seal ring on the hot side of the T3 shaft, as it was completely busted from the heat, it had lost it's ability to expand, plus there was a lot of carbon in the groove underneath it. I popped the old ring off, cleaned the carbon and replaced it with the ring from the T4 shaft (which is identical).


New seal


Here it is, the new turbo

tdiddy

That is almost what I have, Vlad. Mine is a T4 .82 A/R Turbine with a T04E .60 A/R Compressor.