Brettus

iTrader: (2)

ok - so it becomes a mission for the engine to hold idle under the extra load of the SC . I remember you talking earlier about some way of increasing idle speed with a bypass circuit or something ?
I think you would find if you flash tuned in a higher rpm idle , that you would get the desired result .

skc

I will look into getting a mazdaedit in the future as Hymee has not come through with his promise of a new VIN token for the protuner.

tofu_box

Been suggested a fair few times already.

You will need either MazdaEdit or Protuner (cant get now) to be able to tune your Idle.

You will find the factory idle rpm is on a very tight margin on keeping your car running.
I experienced the same issue with the rotrex supercharger unit, you will need extra load whilst idling to maintain the car running especially during abrupt stops and AC conditions.

Getting the MazdaEdit Personal Edition is recommended for both Idle control and Fan Control.

skc

I have also noticed that the car runs very rich at idle. I even get raw fuel smell at start ups as the cat is not hot enough

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

What g/s are you seeing at what idle rpm ?

tofu_box

I have found the same when running Micro Tek and Adaptronics.

It goes extremely rich at startup especially when cold, top the point it starts having fuel coming out of the exhaust.

Never got around it, but i suspect its almost like the aftermarket ecu is trying to fight the air pump to bring it to lambda

skc

Managed go work on the car yesterday. The spark plugs were very black so car is running rich. gave it a good clean and it helped with the stalling issue however it is still a bit erratic. While driving I noticed exhaust leak so I looked under the car and sure enough there was some black soot around the cat area. This was just replaced and the gasket failed. When the new cat went in the car felt transformed as the old one had collapsed and causing a major restriction. I probably should have driven a bit gently allowing the gasket seal to cure.

I will take it back to the shop and I think my idle issue will be resolved.

skc

Lately I have been running my oil around half on the dipstick and I no longer get oil blow by and oil leaks around the supercharger. I am running the Greddy oil sump that carries more oil so there should be any detrimental effects.

The oil temp stays at 80 as usual so I will maintain my oil levels at this level from now on.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Been running mine at 1/2 way for a while now .... fixed my issue with oil in the catch-can altogether .

skc

Closing in on 30 000km and three years since supercharged. All is going well with close to 130 000km on the 10 year old car and engine.

I the last few months the car has become my daily and it seems to be coping well. I try and rev to the redline each time I drive.

Really happy with the supercharger performance.

skc

My tired old engine has now developed an oil leak at the eshaft pulley. It started 2 years ago and only happened at the track however, now it is getting more excessive where I will get one drip of the garage floor each time I drive the car. Oil also gets onto the eshaft sensor and requires regular cleaning.

My mechanic has said that I should just live with it until I get to eventually rebuild.

Apart from the annoying oil leak will there be any issues that will result out of not repairing this leak as I would rather save the money for a future rebuild.

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

I have herd of people replacing the seal without replacing the engine but your guy is correct. S drop a day is not that huge of deal just make sure you check your oil often.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I did it - was very easy . Only worry is that you don't dislodge the needle roller bearing when you remove the pulley . I didn't know this when i did mine but got lucky . I imagine if you removed the pulley while the car was on an reasonable incline .... you would be fine .

skc

If it will not cause a mechanical failure I would rather save the money and put it towards the new engine in the future.

skc

I found a spring for the bypass valve that had more tension so I adjusted the length and tried it on and it seems to work a lot better.

The problem before was that it went into boost at the slightest touch on the throttle and when the AC was running it would cause the idle to fluctuate in some occasions.

So far, it runs a lot smoother, better idle, still goes into boost when I want to accelerate. I believe my fuel economy will be a bit better with this setup.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Good stuff
The small stuff akes such a big difference

skc

After enjoying the trouble free car for a while one of the intercooler clamps failed. Replaced with T bold clamp. The pipe was at an angle sit it kept slipping out when it got tightened up. I finally managed to push the pipe into a position where it would not slip out again and tightened it up properly and it is rock solid now.

The vacuum gauge showed more vacuum than before so there must have been a slight leak before.

I also noticed that the stronger spring that I was running is not coping as well with the extra vacuum. I assume it means I will have to upgrade the spring tension so it can shut the valve more effectively.

skc

Oil leak from the e shaft was creating havoc as I believe it giving faulty readings on the e shaft sensor. I cleaned the sensor wheel and the sensor pallet with with some brake cleaner and the car runs like a dream now.

The fuel consumption has also shown some improvement.

I was only cleaning the sensor pallet when it was covered with oil and it was not doing much. I will do this more regularly from now on.

skc

Pulled of my cat 100 cell Magnaflow two weeks ago for and inspection and found that the core was loose after a few months of operation. This has been my 3rd cat in 3 years so I decided to smash it out and go catless. The first few drives I found the car had idle issues even after doing the brake stomp several times. However, now it seems to have settled down and it runs beautifully.

The sound is great with a hint of rotary rasp at the higher RPM.

l3eltinck

What supercharger are u using?

skc

Hymee supercharger with fixes for leaks. Been on the car for over 3 years and it has now developed a new oil leak which appears if I rev to 9000rpm. It is only a small leak however, it is still annoying.

skc

Last night I had a hiccup while driving. This happened when I was getting onto the freeway, I was behind a slow car so I nailed it as seen as I hit the merge line to overtake on the dual carriage way. As the rpm climbed past 6000rpm all of a sudden the car lost power and I quickly let off the gas and went back to normal driving.

I nail my car like this almost all the time and have never encountered such an issue before. My initial thought is that it is the fuel pump. I am currently running a Walbro and it has been slowly getting louder sounding. From what I understand when the secondary injectors kick in the fuel pressure also rises .

Any other theories on this issue?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

If you had a fuel pressure gauge ................

skc

Changed the sparkplugs back to stock, cleaned ESS, adjusted a clamp on the intercooler that had moved slightly.

I did several WOT runs this morning and it revved smoothly and all hesitation points had been resolved.

The colder spark plugs were very sooty. Adjusting the clamp also resolved a loud whine so I suspect there was slight boost/ vacuum leaks.

skc

Did a mountain run yesterday and the pump failure became evident as the fuel level dropped to quarter tank and below. The whine that I thought was from the supercharger was actually from the pump and it got louder and louder.

On the way home I had to pull over several times as the car kept stalling due to fuel starvation. I will drop the stock pump back in as the Walbro is toast.