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Old 07-02-2013 | 01:43 PM
  #126  
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9k - just a 180 degree t-stat?
Old 07-02-2013 | 01:47 PM
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I just installed a 175 degree, 180 works too.

OE is around 200 correct?
Old 07-02-2013 | 02:07 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by slvrstreak
9k - just a 180 degree t-stat?
Yeah most of them are 180F.

Originally Posted by Carbon8
I just installed a 175 degree, 180 works too.

OE is around 200 correct?
The OE ones are unknown, they are not true bypass thermostats anyway, they allow some oil to flow all the time which is why it takes so long for the oil to get up to temperature. they also seem restrictive to me, i removed the one in the drivers side OEM cooler I am still running. The EVO guys use aftermarket eliminators made by Tomei, I have often wondered if they are the same thread pitch and would work in our coolers.

But if your redo the lines I suggest these (my perma-cool one has worked fine):

Perma-Cool




Earl's (has npt ports for sensors)




Mocal (because race car):




Thermostasis (-10AN ports = good):




Improved Racing (includes fittings)




Canton Racing (because baller, look at oil filters too)


Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-02-2013 at 02:29 PM.
Old 07-02-2013 | 02:31 PM
  #129  
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thanks Scott!
I saw one from Mazdatrix with -10AN ports too
Old 07-02-2013 | 02:34 PM
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Yeah that's the Mocal. You can get it on Amazon for $20.00 cheaper with free 2 day shipping. The fittings can be purchased many places online for pretty cheap. But I try and support my local business when I can if they don't poke my eyes. My fitting place treats me well so I pay a little more and use them at times.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-02-2013 at 02:51 PM.
Old 07-02-2013 | 02:37 PM
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Is it just me or AN fittings and braided lines are jacked.

Paid 60 bucks for some 90 degree elbows that were not included in my filter relocation kit.
Old 07-02-2013 | 02:46 PM
  #132  
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Some places try and rape you. But $60.00 for two fittings is nuts. I just bought two 90 degree Parker JIC -10AN's for my new oil cooler setup for like $25.00. Jegs has good prices in their house brand aluminum AN fittings and they appear to be the same quality as the Ear's and Fragola fittings I have on hand.

But I generally use stainless steel JIC fittings and Brass hose ends when looks are not a concern. I also use Parker 836 -10AN hose (300psi and 300F rated and $45.00 for 20ft). But for the oil relocation kit i put together, I used black aluminum AN fittings from Jegs since they will be seen in the engine bay.
Old 07-02-2013 | 02:57 PM
  #133  
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Yeah mine is not seen to much but I used black, I was in a hurry and just went to a local hydraulic shop, noted never to do that again.
Old 07-02-2013 | 03:30 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by Carbon8
Yeah mine is not seen to much but I used black, I was in a hurry and just went to a local hydraulic shop, noted never to do that again.
Yeah, they really took advantage of you.

Oh and for those who don't know.

Old 07-08-2013 | 01:30 PM
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ordered rear and quarter lexan windows today
debating on ordering the front now as well
yes I know they scratch easily but I'll could put some 3M on it
they said they will send it at a later time for no extra shipping charge
SUPERCOAT protective coating and anti-fog on the inside
heard nothing but good things about the company

SHIELDS Racing Windshields & Windows
Old 07-08-2013 | 02:13 PM
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yo slvr, someone was looking for a windshield today iirc. you could sell yours to make some $ back on the lexan.
Old 07-08-2013 | 02:17 PM
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not sure when I'll get around to uninstalling it but, when I do it'll go for sale on here
have quite a few other things to do first
Old 07-08-2013 | 02:25 PM
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RX-8 glass is rather expensive so don't sell it cheap.
Old 07-08-2013 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by slvrstreak
not sure when I'll get around to uninstalling it but, when I do it'll go for sale on here
have quite a few other things to do first
like send me an a/c condenser

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
RX-8 glass is rather expensive so don't sell it cheap.
qft. i had my windshield replaced years ago. the guy told me what they list for and iirc it was over 1k. when i called they asked if it had the third visor (the black dotted part on top) i didnt know they came without that
Old 07-15-2013 | 11:04 PM
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Update?
Old 07-16-2013 | 07:06 AM
  #141  
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I've been too busy baiting up hogs

still in the process of gutting...carpet, interior, insulation, headliner, airbags, etc are all out
tearing the wiring harness apart now tracing wires to and from their origin to cull excess wires and lighten it up...lots of weight to be lost in that harness
the harness and engine bay stripping is a little more tidious than I expected
Old 07-16-2013 | 07:40 AM
  #142  
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From: George-uhh
oh and about the wheel arch louvers
anyone have any input on the placement or type of louvers that would be best for the RX-8
some protrude up to provide downforce and give the air a column to rise out of at the cost of top speed/drag
some are inverted and produce less drag but, don't pull as much air out of the wheel wells
some teams recommend running louvers along the entire wheel arch...some say towards the front only...some say towards the rear only
anyone smater than me have any ideas?

pretty cool article:
LE MANS: The Aerodynamic Influence of Louvers on Prototypes

and some pictures so you have an idea what I'm talking about:

full length protruding louvers


rear only recessed louvers
Old 07-16-2013 | 07:59 PM
  #143  
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you will not need those. Its actually more prevalent in the rear---if i remember right?
When you coming over for a ride?
Old 07-16-2013 | 09:09 PM
  #144  
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that's correct...venting the rear too
still some lift in the front as well though
I'm in your neighborhood almost daily now but, it will probably be next week before I get a chance to come by
I'll call you soon...can't wait to see the new toy
Old 07-16-2013 | 09:14 PM
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Generally, you want the louvers placed in the point of greatest pressure differential between the two sides. Generally, this means a high internal (to the wheel well) pressure on the opposite side of the skin from a low pressure point above the fender. Typically, pressure on the outer side is greatest at the extreme front edge, but then drops to the greatest low shortly after the leading edge. It's all theory and guess work unless you do some actual testing. If you get a ... um, it's a sort of pressure sensor, I forget the technical name for it ... you can do multiple different runs, moving the sensor point around to get the pressure value for each point you are interested in and thus find the ideal spot. It is possible to have a greater pressure differential in an unexpected place though, as it's harder to predict the pressure of the inner/under side.
Old 07-16-2013 | 11:09 PM
  #146  
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^ what he said. Personally without the right amount of testing I would start with the rear section of the front fender than full for the rear. Time to go hunting. See you Friday.
Old 07-17-2013 | 07:21 AM
  #147  
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From: George-uhh
I think I can measure it with a suspension potentiometer
Thanks for the input guys

Marcos - be sure to bring coolers...we're gonna need them
Old 07-17-2013 | 11:03 PM
  #148  
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Bringing a few coolers and a ton of rounds.
Old 07-29-2013 | 10:55 AM
  #149  
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^ you forgot ice and chairs
you had one job...

hey guys keep an eye out good rear wing for the racecar
I had a APR GTC-200 lined up but, it was stolen from my buddy's garage in NY
anyway if any of you guys run across a APR GTC-200, Fulcrum, Voltex Racing (type 2/5/7), Brooks Motorsports, Bimmerworld, or Crawford Composites Grand AM wing let me know
thanks
Old 07-29-2013 | 11:02 AM
  #150  
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There is one for sale in Kyle, Texas for $300.00. It was on a Civic.



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