slvrstreak's latest build thread
#128
Yeah most of them are 180F.
The OE ones are unknown, they are not true bypass thermostats anyway, they allow some oil to flow all the time which is why it takes so long for the oil to get up to temperature. they also seem restrictive to me, i removed the one in the drivers side OEM cooler I am still running. The EVO guys use aftermarket eliminators made by Tomei, I have often wondered if they are the same thread pitch and would work in our coolers.
But if your redo the lines I suggest these (my perma-cool one has worked fine):
Perma-Cool
Earl's (has npt ports for sensors)
Mocal (because race car):
Thermostasis (-10AN ports = good):
Improved Racing (includes fittings)
Canton Racing (because baller, look at oil filters too)
But if your redo the lines I suggest these (my perma-cool one has worked fine):
Perma-Cool
Earl's (has npt ports for sensors)
Mocal (because race car):
Thermostasis (-10AN ports = good):
Improved Racing (includes fittings)
Canton Racing (because baller, look at oil filters too)
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-02-2013 at 02:29 PM.
#130
Yeah that's the Mocal. You can get it on Amazon for $20.00 cheaper with free 2 day shipping. The fittings can be purchased many places online for pretty cheap. But I try and support my local business when I can if they don't poke my eyes. My fitting place treats me well so I pay a little more and use them at times.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-02-2013 at 02:51 PM.
#132
Some places try and rape you. But $60.00 for two fittings is nuts. I just bought two 90 degree Parker JIC -10AN's for my new oil cooler setup for like $25.00. Jegs has good prices in their house brand aluminum AN fittings and they appear to be the same quality as the Ear's and Fragola fittings I have on hand.
But I generally use stainless steel JIC fittings and Brass hose ends when looks are not a concern. I also use Parker 836 -10AN hose (300psi and 300F rated and $45.00 for 20ft). But for the oil relocation kit i put together, I used black aluminum AN fittings from Jegs since they will be seen in the engine bay.
But I generally use stainless steel JIC fittings and Brass hose ends when looks are not a concern. I also use Parker 836 -10AN hose (300psi and 300F rated and $45.00 for 20ft). But for the oil relocation kit i put together, I used black aluminum AN fittings from Jegs since they will be seen in the engine bay.
#134
#135
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From: George-uhh
ordered rear and quarter lexan windows today
debating on ordering the front now as well
yes I know they scratch easily but I'll could put some 3M on it
they said they will send it at a later time for no extra shipping charge
SUPERCOAT protective coating and anti-fog on the inside
heard nothing but good things about the company
SHIELDS Racing Windshields & Windows
debating on ordering the front now as well
yes I know they scratch easily but I'll could put some 3M on it
they said they will send it at a later time for no extra shipping charge
SUPERCOAT protective coating and anti-fog on the inside
heard nothing but good things about the company
SHIELDS Racing Windshields & Windows
#139
qft. i had my windshield replaced years ago. the guy told me what they list for and iirc it was over 1k. when i called they asked if it had the third visor (the black dotted part on top) i didnt know they came without that
#141
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From: George-uhh
I've been too busy baiting up hogs
still in the process of gutting...carpet, interior, insulation, headliner, airbags, etc are all out
tearing the wiring harness apart now tracing wires to and from their origin to cull excess wires and lighten it up...lots of weight to be lost in that harness
the harness and engine bay stripping is a little more tidious than I expected
still in the process of gutting...carpet, interior, insulation, headliner, airbags, etc are all out
tearing the wiring harness apart now tracing wires to and from their origin to cull excess wires and lighten it up...lots of weight to be lost in that harness
the harness and engine bay stripping is a little more tidious than I expected
#142
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From: George-uhh
oh and about the wheel arch louvers
anyone have any input on the placement or type of louvers that would be best for the RX-8
some protrude up to provide downforce and give the air a column to rise out of at the cost of top speed/drag
some are inverted and produce less drag but, don't pull as much air out of the wheel wells
some teams recommend running louvers along the entire wheel arch...some say towards the front only...some say towards the rear only
anyone smater than me have any ideas?
pretty cool article:
LE MANS: The Aerodynamic Influence of Louvers on Prototypes
and some pictures so you have an idea what I'm talking about:
full length protruding louvers
rear only recessed louvers
anyone have any input on the placement or type of louvers that would be best for the RX-8
some protrude up to provide downforce and give the air a column to rise out of at the cost of top speed/drag
some are inverted and produce less drag but, don't pull as much air out of the wheel wells
some teams recommend running louvers along the entire wheel arch...some say towards the front only...some say towards the rear only
anyone smater than me have any ideas?
pretty cool article:
LE MANS: The Aerodynamic Influence of Louvers on Prototypes
and some pictures so you have an idea what I'm talking about:
full length protruding louvers
rear only recessed louvers
#144
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From: George-uhh
that's correct...venting the rear too
still some lift in the front as well though
I'm in your neighborhood almost daily now but, it will probably be next week before I get a chance to come by
I'll call you soon...can't wait to see the new toy
still some lift in the front as well though
I'm in your neighborhood almost daily now but, it will probably be next week before I get a chance to come by
I'll call you soon...can't wait to see the new toy
#145
Generally, you want the louvers placed in the point of greatest pressure differential between the two sides. Generally, this means a high internal (to the wheel well) pressure on the opposite side of the skin from a low pressure point above the fender. Typically, pressure on the outer side is greatest at the extreme front edge, but then drops to the greatest low shortly after the leading edge. It's all theory and guess work unless you do some actual testing. If you get a ... um, it's a sort of pressure sensor, I forget the technical name for it ... you can do multiple different runs, moving the sensor point around to get the pressure value for each point you are interested in and thus find the ideal spot. It is possible to have a greater pressure differential in an unexpected place though, as it's harder to predict the pressure of the inner/under side.
#146
^ what he said. Personally without the right amount of testing I would start with the rear section of the front fender than full for the rear. Time to go hunting. See you Friday.
#149
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From: George-uhh
^ you forgot ice and chairs
you had one job...
hey guys keep an eye out good rear wing for the racecar
I had a APR GTC-200 lined up but, it was stolen from my buddy's garage in NY
anyway if any of you guys run across a APR GTC-200, Fulcrum, Voltex Racing (type 2/5/7), Brooks Motorsports, Bimmerworld, or Crawford Composites Grand AM wing let me know
thanks
you had one job...
hey guys keep an eye out good rear wing for the racecar
I had a APR GTC-200 lined up but, it was stolen from my buddy's garage in NY
anyway if any of you guys run across a APR GTC-200, Fulcrum, Voltex Racing (type 2/5/7), Brooks Motorsports, Bimmerworld, or Crawford Composites Grand AM wing let me know
thanks