Is there a better choice for GReddy turbo kit other than the NGK BUR9EQP8 for both leading and trailing?

What is the Denso equivalent?

 

No it is not a fair statement because the plug isn't causing it -- it's the heat in the chamber with a mis-matched spark plug use that's causing it. A spark plug can only take/hold/retain so much heat before it becomes a 'glow plug' in and of itself. That's the main reason for choosing the proper heat range for a plug; it's intended to be used in a given range of heat the motor will internally produce. I've been involved with or know of three engines that have blown up due to having too hot of a plug. The engine, while being constantly loaded out (run hard over and over), starts to ping here and there pretty hard with those pings and knocks becoming more frequent. They're pretty violent. If load continues, they'll start to come at the frequency of small arms fire. Then, kaboom; catastrophic engine failure with broken seals and scars all over the rotor housing.

The other thing about causing housings to crack is a phenomenon localized to the trailing plug hole due to it being shrouded compared to the leading. The trailing winds up being more of a hotspot than the leading does being fully exposed. Hence the reason why the factory equips the engine with one heat range colder on the trailing.

For you guys that are doing the turbokit, switch to 9's all around. I recommend the NGK BUR9EQ resistor plug.

Once you guys start marching well into the mid 400's and higher, then the use of NGK R6725105's all around would be a good idea.

B