MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

No. There is no apex seal in existence that will resist the forces that destroyed those listed in this thread.

Not totally sure. Might just be effectively leaner, but the symptoms (white plugs, white exhaust ports, higher rear port EGTs, etc.) indicate a lean condition relative to the front rotor.

SlideWayz

!!! WARNING !!! THREAD HIGHJACK !!!

<ThreadHighjack>

I think moving forward anyone who wants to turbocharge their RX-8 is an absolute idiot if they don't

(1) use the COBB AccessPort since it chases targets instead of the obsolete, dangerous (to apex seals) static tunes from stand alones like the Int-X and my own Xede

&

(2) CHR's radiator upgrade, since the rear rotor is known to run hotter and that appears to be where all the busted apex seals are coming from. Better to over-engineer the cooling than tempt fate.

File under 'penny wise and pound foolish' all those who run the Esmeril kit with the cheap-*** $250 Chinese turbo.

File under 'wasting cash' all those who pay $8k+ for the Mazsport kit.

...more better you pick up a used GReddy kit and MM's 3071r upgrade. 4k and Boom! you've got a reliable 300+ WHP.

</ThreadHighjack>

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Wow. That is flame-bait, but I like it!
Can't say its inaccurate....

Razz1

So does this mean you should use a slightly larger injector for the rear, or can you pluse more fuel to the rear with the AP unit?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

It isn't a concern for you N/A guys.

For the turbo crowd, only a full stand-alone or the E-Manage will allow for front/rear injector trims.
You could get your injectors sized 0.5% bigger in the back, but it would be rich under most conditions where it isn't needed.
Best bet is to just not operate the motor under conditions where the discrepancy is an issue.
Keep the coolant temps below 205°, the oil temps below 210° and the EGTs below 1700°.

SlideWayz

...how about a little fan & shroud to suck air across the back of the engine & down?

suay

(swoope) It says M A Z Sport. The reason I spread the word like that is because I wrote some stuff last time and Scott From M A Z sport came back telling me to ask him for questions on his kit. Is that better for you cool guy Ok I need help on the subject of the Turbo kit. I have 50k on my car and I am about to have the apex seals done/motor redone as they say. It was recommended to make some what more horse power and to reduce the rotar from causing increase in heat. WHat the max PSI for a daily driver on your kits? The kit is recommended 14 PSI(max) low 8-9(low). What do you think? One more guys if u can tell me 3900 for the porting and Kit instillation, too much?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Thats pretty neat. By spreading the "Maz" part, you think Scott won't find you?
I've got to try that...

swoope

iTrader: (5)

hey,

cool guy here.. you dont have a pot to poop on.

or you are talking out of your poop hole..

you have enough info to be stupid.

pick one.

or

d all the above..

my kit runs on 14.7 psi or 1 bar. btw i like 1 bar.


beers

suay

thanks man. Info highly appreciated.

suay

Its not soo much"being found" its just that i want differences of opinion. I feel that a so called "consumer" has the right to the differences of opinion. I know his stuff is the S H I T I have heard nothing but good. I feel I have the right to ask questions, not only to him but ppl who have the kit for any problems. I mean the kit runs 8k with ceramic coating and ignition solution about 9k. I have a right to ask! thanks for the feed back,once again!

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Suay, I would recommend acquainting yourself a little more with the concept of F/I on a Renesis, first, and then start researching the available kits out there. What you will find my surprise you, especially relevant to our discussion about braking systems.

mdw1000

Yes, Mazsport's kits are expensive. They are high end kits with lots of upgraded parts, and they are complete. As far as the original question, I haven't heard of any blown motors with Mazsport's kits.

Obviously somebody is buying them at that pricepoint, otherwise he would lower the price.

Not bashing anybody else at all, so please don't take it that way. Just don't want to see a quality vendor get trashed.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I blew one too....but it had nothing to do with the turbo.....

I had 35-40 hours of WOT track time, and 60K miles of street driving on it

Turbo just finished it off

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Hell; AT the designed power output Mazda has to be prepared to pay to play... lots of things that can go wrong.

mysql

Slavearm's just blew.

A kit is just a kit. Even if it is shoddy in quality, the kit will perform as good as the the fuel management allows. But then there is the inherent danger of engine damage which can happen even on stock RX-8's.

There are more people with the GReddy kit that haven't blown their engines than there are all other kits combined. It's a numbers game, so by the same token, there are more people with blown engines with the GReddy kit than any other. Go figure.

mysql

The only FI kit that I haven't heard an engine blow on is Esmeril kit, but they're just getting their foot in the door.

Like I said, a turbo just pushes air in the engine. If you keep the explosion's safe, your engine might not blow up, but then it might blow up anyway, even without having done anything wrong.

importshowoff84

.....please dont let it happen to me haha......im spending the extra cash for cooling options and tuning so hopefully all goes well for me

mysql

with the accessport and interceptor-x, going FI is fairly trivial now. Strap on your choice of turbo, add some pipes, and away you go.

fighting against a learning pcm that keeps a history of how the car has been reacting to fuel has always been the issue with emanage, and a headache for us for the first few years... I'm glad I had the willpower to wait as long as I did before joining in. There's many people who went FI before that point that walked away disillusioned.

SlideWayz

Yeah, but the problem with the Int-X is that it DOESN'T 'react' to the car's changing needs. The whole reason why the factory PCMs are so awesome these days is that they adjust fuel on an ongoing basis.

For the stand alones like the Int-X and Xede, a oh-so-carefully dialed-in 10.5:1 AFR can become a 11.5:1 AFR due to changes in temperature, humidity, and god-knows-what-else.

Leveraging the dynamic, 'learning' capability of the PCM to keep AFR at target is categorically superior.

SlideWayz

I'm not bashing Mazsport. Their gear rocks hard. It just costs a lot more to get to the same WHP than other available options.

In fact, I'm not bashing the Int-X either. It is simply obsolete just like my Xede, another stand alone unit that takes full control of spark & fuel (it also controls boost).

Fanman

1. Did you break an Apex seal on the front rotor or rear rotor?

Rear Rotor

2. If not an Apex seal, did you break a side seal? If so, which one?

Apex Seal

3. What year was your engine manufactured?

2004

4. Which kit did you have installed (or was it a custom)?

Greddy with a few thousand miles with Greddy EManage Blue & several thousand with HKS PF Con V Pro

5. How many miles did you have on the engine before you installed the turbo?

About 6K

6. How many miles had you put on the turbocharged engine before it popped?

About 14K

7. What wheel horsepower were you making?

260 whp (there was a faulty wastgate spring that would not let me boost above 6.5 psi no matter what we did).

8. What were the conditions under which the engine blew (were you getting on it, cruising, what RPM, etc.)?

Merging from one freeway to another at about 6K RPM, normal weather

staticlag

Ok, so basically, in order for a FI car to be successful:

1) The driver needs to know the limits of his/her tune, the operating conditions where the tune is reliable. And not exceed them.

2) Know how to make basic changes to the tune him/herself.

SlideWayz

...or just let the bloody factory PCM figure all that sh*te out for you like its supposed to (e.g. AP).

Otherwise, you will have to literally re-tune your car just about every time you drive it in order to 'not exceed the limits of your tune'.

A bit of kit that automatically adjusts its tune is better than one that doesn't. Period. Why else do you think all the OEMs do it? It's not a conspiracy of the Rosicrucians & the Tri-Lateral Commission; it's common sense.

mysql

He doesn't have that option right now, it's a blow through setup.