The Time Has Come (Building From Bottom Up)
#204
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
Looking forward to seeing it running....
Good luck trying to find a more extensive knowledge base with people who have done actual work to their cars.
When you come back try and take the hits, we are all here for good fun. Hopefully in a few years you will laugh about that one time you put your soft aluminum housings on the hard cement floor...
Good luck trying to find a more extensive knowledge base with people who have done actual work to their cars.
When you come back try and take the hits, we are all here for good fun. Hopefully in a few years you will laugh about that one time you put your soft aluminum housings on the hard cement floor...
#205
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You should ask before assuming.
Last edited by jayrerickson; 06-24-2013 at 01:36 AM. Reason: Done crying about it lol.
#206
WENTGERMAN
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Its every time I post people have a problem with something.
I like to document my projects and I think it would be more suitable on a different forum. Less BS.
I will be using this forum for info but will keep quite on the progress. It doesn't benefit me to show progress here...
I'm not that stupid. Its hard to see but the whole thing is sitting on 5 layers of bubble wrap (the big kind). Floating on a cushion of air.
You should ask before assuming.
I like to document my projects and I think it would be more suitable on a different forum. Less BS.
I will be using this forum for info but will keep quite on the progress. It doesn't benefit me to show progress here...
I'm not that stupid. Its hard to see but the whole thing is sitting on 5 layers of bubble wrap (the big kind). Floating on a cushion of air.
You should ask before assuming.
Good luck, just remember the link I posted at the beginning of this thread.
#207
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#209
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I was wrong!!!
Crap, new E-shaft and bearings are needed. Nice chip in the E-shaft and got lucky the bearing didn't wear all the way down were I need a new rotor...
Crap, new E-shaft and bearings are needed. Nice chip in the E-shaft and got lucky the bearing didn't wear all the way down were I need a new rotor...
#210
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The shaft I ordered...
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...H3-11-D00.html
The bearings I'm going to order... Will be taking it to a shop to press them in...
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/93-11...01-10-E04.html
The gasket and seal kit I will be getting.
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...t-A-ARE66.html
Still debating on what apex's I should get. Here is a link of the different kinds...
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/searc...keep_https=yes
Right now I'm thinking these... I'm assuming they are 2mm. will research more or just call them...
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...it-ARE131.html
Next is to figure out if the rx7 housings are the same. Would like to use the pineapple port templates but doesn't say for the rx8. If not I will just take 1mm or 2mm off around the ports. Its not that much but rather be safe then sorry.
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...H3-11-D00.html
The bearings I'm going to order... Will be taking it to a shop to press them in...
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/93-11...01-10-E04.html
The gasket and seal kit I will be getting.
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...t-A-ARE66.html
Still debating on what apex's I should get. Here is a link of the different kinds...
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/searc...keep_https=yes
Right now I'm thinking these... I'm assuming they are 2mm. will research more or just call them...
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...it-ARE131.html
Next is to figure out if the rx7 housings are the same. Would like to use the pineapple port templates but doesn't say for the rx8. If not I will just take 1mm or 2mm off around the ports. Its not that much but rather be safe then sorry.
Last edited by jayrerickson; 06-24-2013 at 04:10 PM.
#211
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
You are missing the entire rebuild kit dude...
Also you should do stationary bearings and rotor bearings not just the stationary bearings.
You need the master rebuild kit with all OEM options and cut off seal springs. Assuming your cut off seals are in good shape.
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...build-Kit.html
Also you should do stationary bearings and rotor bearings not just the stationary bearings.
You need the master rebuild kit with all OEM options and cut off seal springs. Assuming your cut off seals are in good shape.
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...build-Kit.html
Last edited by shadycrew31; 06-26-2013 at 08:38 AM.
#212
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You are missing the entire rebuild kit dude...
Also you should do stationery bearings and rotor bears not just the stationary bearings.
You need the master rebuild kit with all OEM options and cut off seal springs. Assuming your cut off seals are in good shape.
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...build-Kit.html
Also you should do stationery bearings and rotor bears not just the stationary bearings.
You need the master rebuild kit with all OEM options and cut off seal springs. Assuming your cut off seals are in good shape.
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...build-Kit.html
Yes the stationary will get done too.
#215
WENTGERMAN
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Yea man, you will need to cut the side seals as well... It takes skill and finesse to get them cut right. Also you will need a feeler gauge at .002 or .003, depending on personal preference.
You need to spec out the apex seals as well to check for play, I forget what thats supposed to be at though I left my manual at my friends house.
You can buy pre-cut side seals from Mazdatrix, which makes things a bit easier.
You will also need to clean and remove the two inner oil control rings and the outer cut off seal as I mentioned above. These need to be cleaned thoroughly and checked for wear.
You need to spec out the apex seals as well to check for play, I forget what thats supposed to be at though I left my manual at my friends house.
You can buy pre-cut side seals from Mazdatrix, which makes things a bit easier.
You will also need to clean and remove the two inner oil control rings and the outer cut off seal as I mentioned above. These need to be cleaned thoroughly and checked for wear.
#218
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Yea man, you will need to cut the side seals as well... It takes skill and finesse to get them cut right. Also you will need a feeler gauge at .002 or .003, depending on personal preference.
You need to spec out the apex seals as well to check for play, I forget what thats supposed to be at though I left my manual at my friends house.
You can buy pre-cut side seals from Mazdatrix, which makes things a bit easier.
You will also need to clean and remove the two inner oil control rings and the outer cut off seal as I mentioned above. These need to be cleaned thoroughly and checked for wear.
You need to spec out the apex seals as well to check for play, I forget what thats supposed to be at though I left my manual at my friends house.
You can buy pre-cut side seals from Mazdatrix, which makes things a bit easier.
You will also need to clean and remove the two inner oil control rings and the outer cut off seal as I mentioned above. These need to be cleaned thoroughly and checked for wear.
With someone that has done it before, around 2 hours per rotor. With me being my first time, I figure 3 hours per rotor. .002 or .003 is the mazda specs. The builder I have been following says that it is better to just make it a perfect fit. Just enough were it will float in the grove with out catching/snagging on anything. Of course keeping the angle cut perfect too. I dont think it will be hard to do, just takes time.
I was going to check the apex with a feeler then thought why bother. Ill wait for the new apex to come in and then check. Now I'm thinking that's stupid. What if it is out of spec with the new ones. Wasted time when I could get it machined for 3mm if it is out of spec. I dont think it is as the old ones look very nice but will check and post pics in 30min. I would like to know if I need 3mm or not.
I was wondering if it would be ok to take out the oil control ring and reuse. But since I will be getting the master kit, doesn't matter, it comes with new ones. Maybe your talking about the ring holder? Ill take a pic of those to.
Be right back with an update.
Last edited by jayrerickson; 06-26-2013 at 09:48 AM.
#219
WENTGERMAN
iTrader: (6)
Thats why I was thinking to check and reuse the side seals. But I might as well do it right with new parts. Will just take a little longer to get it done.
With someone that has done it before, around 2 hours per rotor. With me being my first time, I figure 3 hours per rotor. .002 or .003 is the mazda specs. The builder I have been following says that it is better to just make it a perfect fit. Just enough were it will float in the grove with out catching/snagging on anything. Of course keeping the angle cut perfect too. I dont think it will be hard to do, just takes time.
I was going to check the apex with a feeler then thought why bother. Ill wait for the new apex to come in and then check. Now I'm thinking that's stupid. What if it is out of spec with the new ones. Wasted time when I could get it machined for 3mm if it is out of spec. I dont think it is as the old ones look very nice but will check and post pics in 30min. I would like to know if I need 3mm or not.
I was wondering if it would be ok to take out the oil control ring and reuse. But since I will be getting the master kit, doesn't matter, it comes with new ones. Maybe your talking about the ring holder? Ill take a pic of those to.
Be right back with an update.
With someone that has done it before, around 2 hours per rotor. With me being my first time, I figure 3 hours per rotor. .002 or .003 is the mazda specs. The builder I have been following says that it is better to just make it a perfect fit. Just enough were it will float in the grove with out catching/snagging on anything. Of course keeping the angle cut perfect too. I dont think it will be hard to do, just takes time.
I was going to check the apex with a feeler then thought why bother. Ill wait for the new apex to come in and then check. Now I'm thinking that's stupid. What if it is out of spec with the new ones. Wasted time when I could get it machined for 3mm if it is out of spec. I dont think it is as the old ones look very nice but will check and post pics in 30min. I would like to know if I need 3mm or not.
I was wondering if it would be ok to take out the oil control ring and reuse. But since I will be getting the master kit, doesn't matter, it comes with new ones. Maybe your talking about the ring holder? Ill take a pic of those to.
Be right back with an update.
#220
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For the apex, .003 did fit but barley, just started and wouldn't go father down. Tried with and with out the spring, had the same result.
Pics will be up in a min.
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Plus in the master kit it comes with hardened 2mm seals.
This is the kit I'm getting.
https://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11...build-Kit.html
Actually I'm getting this kit. Comes with both sets of bearings. Saves me about $200.
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/04-11-...68-Manual.html
These are the seals it comes with.
04-11 Rx8 Atkins Apex Seal Set (ARE111)
The seals are better then stock and dont have to buy another set as I was going to buy something better then stock anyway. I was going to try the Cryogenically treated seals but why waste the money when the kit comes with heat treated ones. Might as well give them a try.
Last edited by jayrerickson; 06-26-2013 at 11:54 AM.
#225
WENTGERMAN
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Also get the OEM corner seals, those solid corner seals are meant for high revving high hp cars that get rebuilt often.
They are not meant for daily driving.
Mazda spent millions in R&D over the past 30 years, some two bit shop didn't figure out the rotary holy grail overnight.
They are not meant for daily driving.
Mazda spent millions in R&D over the past 30 years, some two bit shop didn't figure out the rotary holy grail overnight.