Turbo Efficiency Range for RX-8
#152
As i,ve mentioned earlier , the Greddy upgrade turbo(20G) has me at close to 300hp . If someone has figured out how to make it last as well - that makes it a pretty good solution for the 8 owner looking for that power level .
#153
on your upgrade do they clip the turbine wheel and bore the compressor cover? and upgrade the thrust bearings?
Last edited by 05rex8; 02-02-2009 at 01:36 PM. Reason: got my wording backwards, lol
#155
I cannot discuss pricing on forums, but I can beat that deal if the turbocharger is buildable. My turn around is around 2 weeks and it will come with a 1 year warranty. I am starting to get really busy, but I would love to get a line of turbocharger upgrades for you guys.
Thust bearings should be fine in stock configuration. I use them with 50 trims all the time in GMC Syclone/ Typhoon turbochargers w/ zero issues. Since the stock GMC's on pump gas dont run 18-19 psi max, the shaft speeds don't go over what the factory thrust limitations are. I have a 50 trim turbo in my GMC Syclone and love it. It hits really hard and the response is instant. The DSM guys have to upgrade the thrusts b/c of the amount of boost they run is over the limitations of the thrust. I will install the upgraded thrust sections although there is no reason too.
My main concern is simplicity. I want you guys to have zero fitment issues, just remove and install. I don't want you to have to cut on or modify the car in any way.
The 50 trim is only good for around 300 RWHP on a rotary and that depends on the size of the turbine housing. I can port the turbine housing to get increased flow as well.
The 20G isn't much bigger than the 18G. The 20 flows around 42 lb/min at high boost levels. The 50 trim flows 49 lb/min at a lower boost level. More air flow running less boost, thats what you guys need.
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
Thust bearings should be fine in stock configuration. I use them with 50 trims all the time in GMC Syclone/ Typhoon turbochargers w/ zero issues. Since the stock GMC's on pump gas dont run 18-19 psi max, the shaft speeds don't go over what the factory thrust limitations are. I have a 50 trim turbo in my GMC Syclone and love it. It hits really hard and the response is instant. The DSM guys have to upgrade the thrusts b/c of the amount of boost they run is over the limitations of the thrust. I will install the upgraded thrust sections although there is no reason too.
My main concern is simplicity. I want you guys to have zero fitment issues, just remove and install. I don't want you to have to cut on or modify the car in any way.
The 50 trim is only good for around 300 RWHP on a rotary and that depends on the size of the turbine housing. I can port the turbine housing to get increased flow as well.
The 20G isn't much bigger than the 18G. The 20 flows around 42 lb/min at high boost levels. The 50 trim flows 49 lb/min at a lower boost level. More air flow running less boost, thats what you guys need.
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
Last edited by Bryan@BNR; 02-02-2009 at 02:42 PM.
#156
The issue with the greddy is that the seals go out so fast from over oiling.... or you restrict the oil and and then it gets heat damage and coking.... so if you can resolve that and do some better power increases then I think you'll have a win win...
#157
sounds sweet - got a flow map for that baby ?
and yes you need to address the oil issue - it comes from being almost adjacent to the sump . There is very little headroom for the oil to drain away effectively .
and yes you need to address the oil issue - it comes from being almost adjacent to the sump . There is very little headroom for the oil to drain away effectively .
#158
I can install a water cooled center section that will cure all those problems. The only thing is you will have to order water lines and banjo fittings to install it on your car.
Flow map is in post number 131. Its a T04E 50 trim. You may be able to get 320 rwhp out of it but that will be pushing the 50 on a wankel. I can also do a V trim compressor. That V is more of a high volume/low pressure compressor wheel. I use that in my FC T2 stage 1's. I have seen many dynosheets of that turbocharger from the 300-315 RWHP with great TQ numbers.
Bryan@BNR
Flow map is in post number 131. Its a T04E 50 trim. You may be able to get 320 rwhp out of it but that will be pushing the 50 on a wankel. I can also do a V trim compressor. That V is more of a high volume/low pressure compressor wheel. I use that in my FC T2 stage 1's. I have seen many dynosheets of that turbocharger from the 300-315 RWHP with great TQ numbers.
Bryan@BNR
Last edited by Bryan@BNR; 02-02-2009 at 02:53 PM.
#162
Yeah, thats the 50 trim. Nice and broad efficiency range. It goes nicely with a clipped TD06H turbine wheel. I also use this same set up in my 323 GTX. I haven't drove on it yet and I cant wait!
#164
#166
I would like to see that map overlayed onto the 3071 map - looks like they will be very similar in the 8-12 psi range the renesis seems to like ....
#167
well I am going to go with the one tim told me at tim's turbos....his is a 50 trim with a clipped turbine and bored housing...etc. I will let you guys know how the process goes once I get it uninstalled.....which I am not looking forward to....I wish I had some of you guys around here to help me...lol
#168
A clip is also known as radial griding. It takes away the exducer side of the wheel and opens the window between the blades. This reduces back pressure between the turbine and the engine. It will hinder spool up and give more top end performance. Clipping isn't for just any turbine wheel. Some turbine wheels lose efficiency by clipping.
A HT18 turbocharger hybrid with a stock turbine wheel will make 300RWHP max. That same hybrid with a 10 degree clip made 332 RWHP. A 15 degree clipped turbine made 350 RWHP. In an FD HT12 turbos, if you clip the turbines you lose 30 plus RWHP. Its all in the turbine design and efficiency. Some turbines are meant to be left alone.
Bryan@BNR
#170
It all depends on the slopes and curves of the turbine. If you clip too much, you take the leverage away. You take leverage away, you have a turbocharger that can't spin to its peak efficiency. Its not smart to have a turbine that spins 80K RPM and have it matched to a compressor that wants to spin 120K for peak air flow.
But I wish you luck on the turbo from Tim and I hope he does a good job for you.
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
But I wish you luck on the turbo from Tim and I hope he does a good job for you.
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
#171
It all depends on the slopes and curves of the turbine. If you clip too much, you take the leverage away. You take leverage away, you have a turbocharger that can't spin to its peak efficiency. Its not smart to have a turbine that spins 80K RPM and have it matched to a compressor that wants to spin 120K for peak air flow.
But I wish you luck on the turbo from Tim and I hope he does a good job for you.
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
But I wish you luck on the turbo from Tim and I hope he does a good job for you.
Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193
#173
What I'm being offered for rebuilding/upgrading my greddy supposedly is to help reliability as well.
I'll pass on the ball bearing turbo as it takes a year to get...or more.
For 650 and a guy that stands behind the product, you can't go wrong.
#174
Ball bearing turbos and broken apex seals cause a big hole in the pocket . A regular journal bearing turbo, you replace the shaft, rebalance and you are back on the road with a healthy turbo. BB turbo, just go ahead and keep on buying those new turbos or have lack of power b/c half your turbine wheel is gone. I know all about those RX's. I own 4 of them and I would never put a BB turbo on them. If you aren't tuned just perfect, its going to happen...