Turbo Oil Pressure Regulator
#51
I dont quite understand, because pressure does not change density of oil(and by that weight of it in the holes). And, if I'm not mistaken, pressure works at the whole inner surface of rotor, and outside of e- shaft.
#52
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I could not find anything about why the oil pressure was increased on the S2. After reading the S2 service highlights PDF I am wondering if was only increased due to the new oil metering setup and the oil pressure control system that was adopted on the S2 engine.
One thing I did not know was that the Relief valve opening pressure went up from 71psi to 156.6psi.
One thing I did not know was that the Relief valve opening pressure went up from 71psi to 156.6psi.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 02-14-2014 at 02:35 PM.
#53
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I'm still waiting on parts to be made for this but I should have them soon. This is what I found this weekend when i pulled everything. The piping was all full of oil and there was oil coming out of the downpipe.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/12578480153/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/12578480153/
#55
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iTrader: (46)
The orifice on this 1GPM flow controller is really large in comparison to the restrictors others are using. The adjustable check valve will let me control pressure and bypass excess to the sump. So it is very likely IMO, that most using the restrictors are starving their turbos of adequate flow.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/12748806835/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/12756789984/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/12748806835/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/12756789984/
#56
Has anyone tried getting some high heat clear hose for an oil drain?
to observe what the oil drain is doing?
my suspicion is oil goes into turbo gets a bit frothy, then goes done the oil drain and sits on top a pool of oil (the oil level is well above the pan) then stays, much like over filling a beer.
to observe what the oil drain is doing?
my suspicion is oil goes into turbo gets a bit frothy, then goes done the oil drain and sits on top a pool of oil (the oil level is well above the pan) then stays, much like over filling a beer.
#57
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The drain is definitely and issue I think, it is far from ideal. As for clear hose, there is no clear hose that will survive that close, even my high temp ATP silicon hose with DEI wrap on it toasty, I will be making a new one and using fire sleeve this time around.
#60
I was under the car today myself Re-tapping threads, and installing my oil pan, and I found a spot on the front cover that I thought could become a turbo drain. it could be fairly easy if the motor was out of the car, or during a rebuild, but not while in the car. I think you have a pump maybe you could pump it in that way too. something someone could explore on later
#62
Boosted Kiwi
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I was under the car today myself Re-tapping threads, and installing my oil pan, and I found a spot on the front cover that I thought could become a turbo drain. it could be fairly easy if the motor was out of the car, or during a rebuild, but not while in the car. I think you have a pump maybe you could pump it in that way too. something someone could explore on later
#67
especially when the position of the sto greddy turbo is so close to the pan that it doens't have anough gravity to speed up the return to the oil pan. it's just my 2cents.
i think, since it's a journal turbo, the most important is the the return line. i hope you make bigger hose and better angle..
if you put too much restrictor, it might starve the turbo, like what i had in my previous T67..it seized up..
good luck..sorry to write too long..just like to throw my opinion...thanks for the pic that you sent me about the oil cooler lines
#68
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Thanks Halim.
Faz,
The front cover is too high to return there. My drain line is downward and smooth as it can get, there is really not much that can be done to make that better, I just don't think it has enough down slope and it returns below the oil level so under G's the oil has to get forced back up into the turbo.
Ask for the crankcase, yes that is an issue and things were better with my larger vented catch can but it was too little too late. I have a -8 AN line and I will have my aluminum Mazdaspeed capped for a proper -8AN fitting instead of stepping down to the little plastic tube on the filler neck.
Faz,
The front cover is too high to return there. My drain line is downward and smooth as it can get, there is really not much that can be done to make that better, I just don't think it has enough down slope and it returns below the oil level so under G's the oil has to get forced back up into the turbo.
Ask for the crankcase, yes that is an issue and things were better with my larger vented catch can but it was too little too late. I have a -8 AN line and I will have my aluminum Mazdaspeed capped for a proper -8AN fitting instead of stepping down to the little plastic tube on the filler neck.
#69
Thanks Halim.
Faz,
The front cover is too high to return there. My drain line is downward and smooth as it can get, there is really not much that can be done to make that better, I just don't think it has enough down slope and it returns below the oil level so under G's the oil has to get forced back up into the turbo.
Faz,
The front cover is too high to return there. My drain line is downward and smooth as it can get, there is really not much that can be done to make that better, I just don't think it has enough down slope and it returns below the oil level so under G's the oil has to get forced back up into the turbo.
have you ever thought about the PTFE line? it's a stainless steel line, but instead of having rubber as inner line, it has a hard plastic, it's hard to explain it, you should see the pics. i think with PTFE material, the oil will flow better down to you oil pan than rubber. i use this PTFE line for my water line..i think if you can -10An for return, it would be nice..or you can add a pump on the return line if it's possible..
steven