The previous owner was using 5W-20 but I was curious if I should go with a higher wieght since the car is turbo charged.

I will be driving the car thru the winter so that might effect the type of oil I should use.

Should I switch to synthetic? and if so is it worth the extra cost?

Synthetic oil is 4X more expensive here in Canada.

 

I use 5w30 all year long, thinking of going to 5w40.

For turbo I think 5w20 is no good .... dont know what the previous owner was thinking but to me it sound like a moron.

 

i've been using 10w30 rp

 

ok but should i use synthetic or not?

 

I would recommend it. It's better for your turbo, and it will have higher resistance to being cooked from the heat.

If you have doubts if synthetic is good for your engine, buy the sohn adapter, which will prevent engine oil from being burned (you supply it directly).

 

Now that sounds interesting.

Mods sure are endless on these cars.

 

at the risk of going off topic, here's details on it: http://rotaryinsider.com/viewtopic.php?t=93

 

Thanks for this info. I will be ordering this ASAP.

 

Any idea what oil reservoir tank would fit nicely under the hood?

 

it was suggested using the windshield washer tank.

 

HAHA!... but what if my windows get dirty?

 

if you drive fast enough, dirt can't stick.

 

LOL

I plan to drive the car thru the winter so I need washer fluid for sure.

 

One last question about synthetic oil.

Would I have to change the oil every 5,000km or 3,000miles with synthetic?

Synthetic oil is 4X the price so it would get expensive pretty quick since I drive ALOT!

 

use castrol gtx 10w30

 

Thanks, that was very helpful.

Are you a bot?

 

most respectful builders will tell you to use a 10w 40 oil in an fi renasis engine but ONLY if you warm the engine before you drive due to the tight bearing clearances. one recommends a 20w 50 for everyday driving in mod climates. he also recommends changing the oil every 3K or when the oil looks dirty. If you add a remote oil filter and use a slightly bigger filter than oem (k&n 1010 versus a k&n 1008 ) you can get an extra quart in her.

 

I just did an oil change 20mins ago.

I switched from 5W-20 to 10W-30 and I am blown away how thin the 5W-20 is.

I mean its thin like water.

 

I contacted Richard Sohn and this was his reply.

Quote: "The price of US$108.00 includes the adjuster, wich you only need if you use an ECU without an output for the OMP stepper."

Does the Greddy emanage have the output for the OMP stepper?

 

When my car was turboed I used Royal Purple 5w30. Worked great.

 

everyone has their own opinons on oil. I talk to one person and they say OMG no synthetic it kills your motor!!! yada yada.

Im a former RP user who just hated rp because i had to order it, because no stores carried it.

From what ive been told is use 10w30 when its colder where i live in maine. and use 20w50 because it has anti sludge forumlation that supposively good for rotary motors.

personally i never have used 20w50 basically because i think it is alot heavier than i feel comfortable using.

10w30 is a good oil and is perfect for a daily driven rotary that is boosted.

 

When I had my 8 I used 5w30 synthetic, and changed it every 3500 miles.

 

idemitsu 20w50 synthetic rotory engine oil and run the idemitsu premix. they were used on mazda's 787B.

 

i have ran 5W30 RP for years--no problems and great "feel" to the car. We call the 5W 20 stuff "WD-40"-- its about the same.
I am installing the Pettit SC kit this week and Cam told me flat out to run a 20w50 in this engine BUT make sure you warm it up good 1st because of tight bearing clearances. Synthetic or dino he didnt care but insist that you change every 3K or when it looks dirty. No synthetic oil in the supercharger itself. Buying RP by the case makes it about $5 a quart for me.
olddragger