I have searched, but can't find a simple answer really, maybe I'm just too simple myself, but I am strongly considering going with FI. My 8 right now is basically stock except for an intake really and I need to know what to get when going with a turbo. Would just a turbo kit be all I need in it? I would be doing other mods along with the turbo, but I would like to know what is necessary.

 

You can start by reading one someone else's build thread. They usually have most of their steps documented, so that'll be helpful for you.

You want to select your turbo kit. If it's the Greddy kit, you may want to look into getting it upgraded by some of the vendors on this forum (i.e. BHR). Figure out what RWHP you want to get out of the system, and then figure out what kits reach that number.

A lot of things will go into the car when you add a turbo. You'll figure out what additional stuff needs to be changed in the car (tires, exhaust, etc) when you decide on what your goals are.

 

Read the stickies and million other posts on the topic.

 

check my signature, to give u an idea + a good tuner

 

1st make sure your engine is in good shape---vacuum reading is good and or compression is good. Then get new coils, sparkplug wires and sparkplugs--just because.
make sure your fuel pump is good. when you do your install before it is completed--send your fuel injectors for cleaning and matching or you can do this before you install a system if you like. make sure you have engine operating temps under control. If you dont already have real gauges go ahead and install some.
then select the fi system you want and follow the good advice already posted.
I really would not boost this engine without a water meth injection kit.
OD

 

The only simple answer to FI is to find a good shop, hand them a blank check, and pick your car up in 3 months.

Other than that, be prepared to learn about tuning, ems's, fuel systems, ingition systems, the Renesis, turbos, gauges, turbo accessories, basically everything. You will learn more from smashing the search button and reading 50 page threads and stickies than you will from this thread.

 

Having gone through the process on this car now, this is the exact thing I think people should NOT ever do. Even once the car is running properly (which takes a hell of a lot more than dropping it off at a shop, even a good one) you need to understand in detail every element of the car to keep it running and know what to do when it isn't.

You need to understand air-fuel ratios, how the MAF works, which pressure/vacuum lines go where etc etc just to confidently drive the car safely. Driving an OEM turbocharged car which is conservatively tuned and dialed in by a massive manufacturer generally with a warranty if something goes wrong is not anything like driving a naturally aspirated high compression turbocharged conversion. You really need to have some idea wtf you are doing. If you aren't willing to make learning that part of the fun then turbocharging this car or any other NA from the factory vehicle is a bad bad idea.

Another note about dropping the car off with a blank checkbook... shops don't give a crap about your car. Only you care about your car as much as you.

Also because so few people have gone FI with the RX-8, while there are some accepted practices now, most shops aren't terribly familiar with them. They either have experience with older rotaries or experience with tools like the Access PORT, rarely if ever both.

 

You will need money, at least 15K.

Some of these are reserved so when you blow your engine up from mistakes, you have extra money to buy another rebuild one.

 

Well, in fairness it shouldn't be nearly that much money if you do most of the work yourself, and if you do it correctly you will not blow your engine. It is good to have the money available in case something does happen however.

 

Stay NA!!!

 

I was being facetious. Really, though, a blank check is any amount. You give me $200k, I'll give you an FI Rx8 that's guaranteed for 100k miles. How? Redundancy. Build 5 engines. Pop one, put the next one in. An unlimited budget presents a lot of solutions. I can probably name 10-15 shops/people who have the technical ability and Rx8 know-how to make that happen. And I can also pretty much guarantee the OP does not have even 1/10th of that budget. I do product application for a living and really, just about anything is possible given the correct amount of time and budget. Customers though do not have unlimited time and budget so it's a balancing act of what can you do with what they have.

OP - a turbo kit is like a box of cake mix. It has the base components and the instructions, but if you suck at baking and don't have the eggs and milk, you are going to make a pretty crappy cake.

 

Greddy RX-8 Turbo Kit - $3499
BNR Greddy Turbo Upgrade - $1050
GReddy Coupler Upgrade Kit - $270
Cobb AccessPort from MazdaManaic - $750
AEM Cold Air Intake - $315
Greddy Type RS Universal BOV + adapter - $210
Greddy oil pan - $319
AEM UEGO, AEM Tru-boost gauges - $600
kgparts.com fuel injector service - $100

Total: $7113

Then you need to calculate the cost of shipping and labour. Cha-Ching! $$$$

 

You forgot one thing Turborx8,

he can sell the E-Manage Ultimate that comes with the Kit, so he can get a few hundred bux back.

hmm, the price list is ONLY if you do all the work yourself

but I wouldn't buy anything from Greddy unless I REALLY have to. Cuz they have almost ZERO customer service, if something ***** up, well, you're on your own.

 

Well, if you are asking what you need, you probably are not looking to install or tune it. Tuning is included with the AP if you get it done in the allotted time. I probably throw in $90 for a walbro because I don't trust an Rx8 pump any further than I can throw it.

 

good response blackenwings. Agree 110%
I think the op was asking how to get his car prepared for going FI? Not installing the FI kit itself?
OD

 

There are cheaper routes tho...if he wants to run stock boost, and is satisfied with the 250-270 whp then he cut your price list by $xxxx
Such as Turbo UPGRADE/Oil pan/HAVE to be AEM gauges? no..
and you could be ghetto with the couplers! go to NAPA and buy 3" Tractor radiator hose haha...used to be the only coupler my DSM wouldn't blow, without spending 200+

 

Cheap = Boom.
Do it Right

 

If you're referring to my post, please explain how what I said could = boom, thanks
Assuming his AP in list by MM is tuned...explain

 

Dude, this post wins. You just earned my sig.

 

I wasn't referring to your post, just making sure the OP knows that going the cheap route often leads to premature failure.

 

Make sure you have the $$$ to buy or rebuild your engine because it WILL pop.

 

i disagree.
OD

 

Given the number of engines people blow modding cars, we should all have a contingency plan for popping an engine whether we're FI or not. I don't think you can very far in "major horsepower" modifications if you are afraid to blow an engine.

 

I agree. With a solid tune you should not worry about blowing an engine but its possible so if you cant afford a replacement do not go FI.

 

Durable FI Renesis engines are like Jesus...everyone talks about them, but nobody ever sees them.