View Poll Results: What's your RX-8 running on?
N/A (all-motor)
88
79.28%
Turbocharged
21
18.92%
Supercharged
1
0.90%
Nitrous
1
0.90%
Voters: 111. You may not vote on this poll
Is your RX-8 Boosted or N/A?
#1
Is your RX-8 Boosted or N/A?
I have seen so many threads and signatures of members here with turbo. I'd like to know how many of us here are N/A and how many are boosted?
#13
Originally Posted by Xyntax
Sweet! Another boosted 8 in the bay! So, there's you, pur nrg, and sapphonica now.
#16
I feel ya' Moostafa. I've had my kit in the garage for 'bout 3 weeks now.... friggin' killing me. I wanted to port the wastegate and clean it up a bit from the previous owner. The shop I took it to has been soooo slooow. I'm getting it back tomorrow finished or not. I've done about all I can do in the mean time. I've got the profec e-01, emanage, LC-1, intercooler and some of the piping installed...so, I've been scaring the local punks a little 'cause it looks like I'm boosted :p ! I think I can get the manifold, turbo and finish the rest of the plumbing this weekend! Hopefully I'll finish installing my additional oil cooler this weekend, too. Then we'll see about adjusting the tuning and BOV (HKS SSQV :D ). Damn I can't wait!! I plan on running the emanage for a while. Then once the bank account has recovered a little, I'll get the Interceptor-X if need be. I have my fingers crossed, still running the M flash, which is supposedly what GReddy tuned under.
BTW: I plan on doing a DIY for the additional oil cooler. This thing is badd-***! It's straight from a Nextel Cup car! Its by far the most efficient oil cooler that I could find. It fits right at the base of the raditor and only has 3.5" shadow, so I'm not blocking too much air from the radiator. It also adds about 1.25 qts of oil capacity, so it kind of acts like the big oil pan you can get from GReddy. With all the heat / oil issues, I'd suggest the rest of you boosted 8's get one of these, too!
BTW: I plan on doing a DIY for the additional oil cooler. This thing is badd-***! It's straight from a Nextel Cup car! Its by far the most efficient oil cooler that I could find. It fits right at the base of the raditor and only has 3.5" shadow, so I'm not blocking too much air from the radiator. It also adds about 1.25 qts of oil capacity, so it kind of acts like the big oil pan you can get from GReddy. With all the heat / oil issues, I'd suggest the rest of you boosted 8's get one of these, too!
#18
on a scale of 1-10... about a 3.
One tip. The instructions tell you to drill a 1" hole behind the washer resevoir. I'd make it 1.25". Otherwise, you'll spend about 20 minutes with a file, trying to get the connectors to pass through without damaging the wires.
If you are planning on running a boost controler, and/or the LC-1, draw the power from the cigarette lighter, which is easy to get to. Just follow the DYI instructions for the RP short shifter. Then, its easy to run the wires from the center console to the glove box, where I have all my electronic boxes neatly stashed using heavy-duty, double-sided tape. The e-01 works perfectly with the clip from proclipsusa.com
One tip. The instructions tell you to drill a 1" hole behind the washer resevoir. I'd make it 1.25". Otherwise, you'll spend about 20 minutes with a file, trying to get the connectors to pass through without damaging the wires.
If you are planning on running a boost controler, and/or the LC-1, draw the power from the cigarette lighter, which is easy to get to. Just follow the DYI instructions for the RP short shifter. Then, its easy to run the wires from the center console to the glove box, where I have all my electronic boxes neatly stashed using heavy-duty, double-sided tape. The e-01 works perfectly with the clip from proclipsusa.com
#20
Originally Posted by MadDog
on a scale of 1-10... about a 3.
One tip. The instructions tell you to drill a 1" hole behind the washer resevoir. I'd make it 1.25". Otherwise, you'll spend about 20 minutes with a file, trying to get the connectors to pass through without damaging the wires.
If you are planning on running a boost controler, and/or the LC-1, draw the power from the cigarette lighter, which is easy to get to. Just follow the DYI instructions for the RP short shifter. Then, its easy to run the wires from the center console to the glove box, where I have all my electronic boxes neatly stashed using heavy-duty, double-sided tape. The e-01 works perfectly with the clip from proclipsusa.com
One tip. The instructions tell you to drill a 1" hole behind the washer resevoir. I'd make it 1.25". Otherwise, you'll spend about 20 minutes with a file, trying to get the connectors to pass through without damaging the wires.
If you are planning on running a boost controler, and/or the LC-1, draw the power from the cigarette lighter, which is easy to get to. Just follow the DYI instructions for the RP short shifter. Then, its easy to run the wires from the center console to the glove box, where I have all my electronic boxes neatly stashed using heavy-duty, double-sided tape. The e-01 works perfectly with the clip from proclipsusa.com
#21
Go man, go! Its pretty easy if you just divide-up the tasks. I did the emanage one weekend, the LC-1 and the e-01 on another. Yeah, my emanage is in the glovebox. It fits nicely and its protected from the environments.
Since you are a DIY'er like me, here's an update on what I did today. I'll keep you posted so you know what to expect. When I got home, I: Removed the front two wheels, put it on jackstands, removed the bumper, removed the splash gaurds, re-shaped the brackets on the intercooler to make it sit a little straighter, removed the air pump, removed the engine mount and removed the exhaust manifold.
Then, it was time to come in and get cleaned-up for the evening's activities with the girlfriend. So, I re-installed the engine mount just for overnight safe keeping.
All of the above took 3.5 hours. Not too bad, huh? :D
So, in the morning, I'll start it up again - applying the heat shield and then the fun really begins as the GReddy hardware goes in, after 3 weeks of sitting on my shop table! :D :D :D
Since you are a DIY'er like me, here's an update on what I did today. I'll keep you posted so you know what to expect. When I got home, I: Removed the front two wheels, put it on jackstands, removed the bumper, removed the splash gaurds, re-shaped the brackets on the intercooler to make it sit a little straighter, removed the air pump, removed the engine mount and removed the exhaust manifold.
Then, it was time to come in and get cleaned-up for the evening's activities with the girlfriend. So, I re-installed the engine mount just for overnight safe keeping.
All of the above took 3.5 hours. Not too bad, huh? :D
So, in the morning, I'll start it up again - applying the heat shield and then the fun really begins as the GReddy hardware goes in, after 3 weeks of sitting on my shop table! :D :D :D
#22
Sounds like some pretty good work so far MadDog. Can't wait to hear how much you get done tomorrow. If I weren't going to sell the emanage, I'd go ahead and install that now. But the only thing I can do right now is wire up the boost controller and gauges.
#25
15" won't be too bad. There were a few times I had to stop and rest because my arms got too tierd. Holding them up too high might accelerate that effect.
The trick is to raise and lower the engine as you try to get the turbo up there and everything fitting. Its such a tight fit. The engine mount makes it all so much fun... My install was complicated by the fact that the compression tube was already installed on the compressor housing. I bought mine used, and apparently, the previous owner used JB weld as a gasketing material! I couldn't get the damn thing off!
Anyway, its not too bad. Just be careful. The install of the oil drain pipe and one of the turbo mount nuts is tricky . I was **scared to death** that I was going to round-off one of the nuts. There would litterally be NO way to get the trubo or drain pipe off at that point. You would have to torch it off!! Also, make sure you mount the one bolt (on the side of the drain pipe -slot-) for the drain pipe in the turbo center housing before you install the turbo. Otherwise, its a bitch getting the bolt started. You'd need fingers like pencils.
Avoid that and you should be sipping a frosty Samuel Jackson in no time! :D
The trick is to raise and lower the engine as you try to get the turbo up there and everything fitting. Its such a tight fit. The engine mount makes it all so much fun... My install was complicated by the fact that the compression tube was already installed on the compressor housing. I bought mine used, and apparently, the previous owner used JB weld as a gasketing material! I couldn't get the damn thing off!
Anyway, its not too bad. Just be careful. The install of the oil drain pipe and one of the turbo mount nuts is tricky . I was **scared to death** that I was going to round-off one of the nuts. There would litterally be NO way to get the trubo or drain pipe off at that point. You would have to torch it off!! Also, make sure you mount the one bolt (on the side of the drain pipe -slot-) for the drain pipe in the turbo center housing before you install the turbo. Otherwise, its a bitch getting the bolt started. You'd need fingers like pencils.
Avoid that and you should be sipping a frosty Samuel Jackson in no time! :D
Last edited by MadDog; 09-07-2005 at 04:40 PM.