BigBadChris and the little turbo RX8
#351
Direct copy form the owner's manual(2008)
[5-23]
NOTE
To turn off the TCS, press the DSC OFF switch (page 5-26).
[5-26]Press the DSC OFF switch to turn off the
TCS/DSC. The DSC OFF indicator light
will illuminate.
Press the switch again to turn the TCS/
DSC back on. The DSC OFF indicator
light will go out.
NOTE
- When DSC is on and you attempt to free the vehicle when it is stuck, or drive it out of freshly fallen snow, the TCS (part of the DSC system) will activate. Depressing the accelerator will not increase engine power and freeing the vehicle may be difficult. When this happens, turn off the TCS/DSC.
- If the TCS/DSC is off when the engine is turned off, it automatically activates when the ignition switch is turned on.
- Leaving the TCS/DSC on will provide the best stability. When the TCS/DSC is off, the TCS/DSC does not activate but the brake LSD (Limited Slip Differentials) function remains.
- If the DSC OFF switch is pressed and held for a second or more, the TCS/DSC system may become inoperative due to the system detecting switch trouble. If the TCS/DSC system becomes inoperative, the TCS/DSC and the DSC OFF indicator lights illuminate simultaneously. In this case, turn off the engine and restart it to restore the TCS/DSC.
#353
Also, sorry BigBadChris for the thread hijack.
#354
Driving my unreliable rx8
If you just press it it doesn't pull power and will let you get noticbly loose, but the system will still kick in keeping you from spinning out. Try holding it down for 7 sec and it won't stop you. Burn out and drift all day long until you find a good tree/fire hydrant/wall or whatever else you slide into.
#355
If you just press it it doesn't pull power and will let you get noticbly loose, but the system will still kick in keeping you from spinning out. Try holding it down for 7 sec and it won't stop you. Burn out and drift all day long until you find a good tree/fire hydrant/wall or whatever else you slide into.
"If the DSC OFF switch is pressed and held for a second or more, the TCS/DSC system may become inoperative due to the system detecting switch trouble. If the TCS/DSC system becomes inoperative, the TCS/DSC and the DSC OFF indicator lights illuminate simultaneously. In this case, turn off the engine and restart it to restore the TCS/DSC."
#356
SPOOLN8
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When you hold the button down, it turns all that stuff off until you hit the brakes. Try doing a brake stand somewhere (No I don't do this all the time but I've done it at the drag strip). If you hold the button down you can do one, but if you don't you engine will cut power.
#357
Driving my unreliable rx8
I read and realize what it says. I'll also note that both lights do not come on unless it is held down into fault mode which tends to say that they are both not off until this is done.
On top of that read through the dyno threads. You will not get a good reliable dyno pull with a single press it is recommended to at least hold.it. but even higher recommendation is to remove the room fuse just in case it is still active or you restart the car.
On top of that read through the dyno threads. You will not get a good reliable dyno pull with a single press it is recommended to at least hold.it. but even higher recommendation is to remove the room fuse just in case it is still active or you restart the car.
#358
Why am I so set on it? Because it could keep me from destroying the car. Its a pretty smart system, lots of sensors. Why put all of this money in the car (which I cannot recover if I total it out), and then disable a computer system designed to help prevent an accident? I would feel pretty stupid if I totalled the car because I went sideways into a tree, just so I could drive a stick shift.
#359
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
I prefer TSC myself. I learned to appreciate it one morning crossing an old wood covered bridge during a rainstorm.
Something about water, wood, and rubber.... doesn't do well for traction. The rear slipped out and if not for TSC I would've fishtailed into the wall of the bridge and possibly spun thru it.
Something about water, wood, and rubber.... doesn't do well for traction. The rear slipped out and if not for TSC I would've fishtailed into the wall of the bridge and possibly spun thru it.
#360
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
If you don't have the driving skill, I agree you should leave it on. (Turning it on in bad/wet weather ain't bad either.)
Then spend money on HPDE's and get instruction and get the skills not to crash.
Those skills will benefit you even when you have to drive your gf's shitty little Camry.
#361
Your thinking is sound, but if you have any driving skill it will constantly be getting in your way with the increase in power you are building toward.
If you don't have the driving skill, I agree you should leave it on. (Turning it on in bad/wet weather ain't bad either.)
Then spend money on HPDE's and get instruction and get the skills not to crash.
Those skills will benefit you even when you have to drive your gf's shitty little Camry.
If you don't have the driving skill, I agree you should leave it on. (Turning it on in bad/wet weather ain't bad either.)
Then spend money on HPDE's and get instruction and get the skills not to crash.
Those skills will benefit you even when you have to drive your gf's shitty little Camry.
Last edited by BigBadChris; 11-04-2015 at 10:27 AM. Reason: Spelling and punctuation
#362
SPOOLN8
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,251
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^^ +1 I always leave it on in shitty weather on the highway, but around the city I've never found any situation where I thought it was necessary. We're not driving torque monsters around even with a quick spooling turbo.... which this build does not have....
My opinion: I'd way rather have the stick shift than traction control. But it's not my build, just wanted to make the point that many people find the TCS a hindrance when going FI and it wouldnt be a deal breaker for me.
Either way, good luck with the rebuild!
My opinion: I'd way rather have the stick shift than traction control. But it's not my build, just wanted to make the point that many people find the TCS a hindrance when going FI and it wouldnt be a deal breaker for me.
Either way, good luck with the rebuild!
#366
In the nicest way, your experience wasnt so smooth, so I decided to back off. I know you had tuning complications, wiring complications, and a relatively rare ECU. (not to rag on you).
#367
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
Yeah, the 5 speed swap is only "easy" if you get a complete JDM motor, transmission and ECU. The ECU and ABS issue can likely be addressed by your dealer... but it'll likely take a very knowledgable mazda tech to do the work. I think most will just scratch their head when they see the JDM ECU report in.
You can keep your 4AT ECU and harness though.... all you have to do is suppress the U0101 (TCM communication error) CEL. You'll pass inspection no problem and DSC/TSC will continue to work fine. That's what McKennaR did.
The 4AT to 6MT conversion was actually easy. It was everything else that got in the way.
You can keep your 4AT ECU and harness though.... all you have to do is suppress the U0101 (TCM communication error) CEL. You'll pass inspection no problem and DSC/TSC will continue to work fine. That's what McKennaR did.
The 4AT to 6MT conversion was actually easy. It was everything else that got in the way.
#368
Yeah, the 5 speed swap is only "easy" if you get a complete JDM motor, transmission and ECU. The ECU and ABS issue can likely be addressed by your dealer... but it'll likely take a very knowledgable mazda tech to do the work. I think most will just scratch their head when they see the JDM ECU report in.
You can keep your 4AT ECU and harness though.... all you have to do is suppress the U0101 (TCM communication error) CEL. You'll pass inspection no problem and DSC/TSC will continue to work fine. That's what McKennaR did.
The 4AT to 6MT conversion was actually easy. It was everything else that got in the way.
You can keep your 4AT ECU and harness though.... all you have to do is suppress the U0101 (TCM communication error) CEL. You'll pass inspection no problem and DSC/TSC will continue to work fine. That's what McKennaR did.
The 4AT to 6MT conversion was actually easy. It was everything else that got in the way.
#370
Update time
So, what happened to my car?
Basically, I needed an entirely new motor. The back housing was lapped, and was out of spec. The back of the center housing was lapped....and was out of spec. The front housing was good....except it had a big crack through the motor mount on the passenger side.
Three trashed housings. I gave in to temptation, and decided that I needed to go six port. New six port housings and stationary gears have been ordered. I just completed a large eBay order, all the parts I think I need to do the swap. Ari also has a donor car, so the ECU and ABS computers will match. He did not plan on pulling that motor (it is ruined), so I decided to buy donor parts rather than pay someone to strip a car. I will be sourcing the driveshaft and transmission from the donor car, as well as things I may have left off my eBay order.
The only thing that is still up in the air is the transmission (JDM 5 speed or USDM 6 speed) and the fuel delivery. I am tempted by the KG parts rails and a return fuel system. I know its overkill, I know that very few members have done it successfully. but it is worth looking into. A 1:1 fuel pressure regulator just makes sense.
Also did some googling based on some other threads that have been updated lately, and found a "turbo oill pressure regulator". Not as elaborate as 9k's DIY job, but interesting none the less. It is sold by a little shop calling themselves Freelance Motorsports. For 125 bucks, it might be worth the peace of mind to keep the turbo happy.
I plan on repurposing the ACS twin cool to take the heat off the turbo water, and then return it to the system. I dont think transmission or differential fluid is worth the effort, I will not be doing auto X or pushing the car to its limits.
Work continues on the Sohn adapter, it is in Ari's court to modify the turbo intake piping to make room for the sandwich plate.
More to come this week
So, what happened to my car?
Basically, I needed an entirely new motor. The back housing was lapped, and was out of spec. The back of the center housing was lapped....and was out of spec. The front housing was good....except it had a big crack through the motor mount on the passenger side.
Three trashed housings. I gave in to temptation, and decided that I needed to go six port. New six port housings and stationary gears have been ordered. I just completed a large eBay order, all the parts I think I need to do the swap. Ari also has a donor car, so the ECU and ABS computers will match. He did not plan on pulling that motor (it is ruined), so I decided to buy donor parts rather than pay someone to strip a car. I will be sourcing the driveshaft and transmission from the donor car, as well as things I may have left off my eBay order.
The only thing that is still up in the air is the transmission (JDM 5 speed or USDM 6 speed) and the fuel delivery. I am tempted by the KG parts rails and a return fuel system. I know its overkill, I know that very few members have done it successfully. but it is worth looking into. A 1:1 fuel pressure regulator just makes sense.
Also did some googling based on some other threads that have been updated lately, and found a "turbo oill pressure regulator". Not as elaborate as 9k's DIY job, but interesting none the less. It is sold by a little shop calling themselves Freelance Motorsports. For 125 bucks, it might be worth the peace of mind to keep the turbo happy.
I plan on repurposing the ACS twin cool to take the heat off the turbo water, and then return it to the system. I dont think transmission or differential fluid is worth the effort, I will not be doing auto X or pushing the car to its limits.
Work continues on the Sohn adapter, it is in Ari's court to modify the turbo intake piping to make room for the sandwich plate.
More to come this week
Last edited by BigBadChris; 01-22-2016 at 10:06 PM.
#371
Dark Moderator
iTrader: (18)
Let me know how you make out with the sohn.
As I said I've been toying with an OMP off and on. Soon I'll have time to focus solely on it to make it work. A buddy said he may have it figured out but like I said he's always busy and this is a back burner kind of thing.
Are you going to run the IC piping inside instead of through the wheel wells? Eventually I will do this, just have to figure out how to route em.
Will you make up your mind? 6 port or 4 port, pick one.
JDM 5spd is much stronger honestly.
Link for the turbo oil reg?
Do you have gmail chats? Aka hangouts?
Travis
As I said I've been toying with an OMP off and on. Soon I'll have time to focus solely on it to make it work. A buddy said he may have it figured out but like I said he's always busy and this is a back burner kind of thing.
Are you going to run the IC piping inside instead of through the wheel wells? Eventually I will do this, just have to figure out how to route em.
Will you make up your mind? 6 port or 4 port, pick one.
JDM 5spd is much stronger honestly.
Link for the turbo oil reg?
Do you have gmail chats? Aka hangouts?
Travis
#373
Travis, here ya go
Turbo Oil Regulator - Freelance Motorsports LLC
9k, isn't an adjustable restirctor better than a dumb restrictor?
Turbo Oil Regulator - Freelance Motorsports LLC
9k, isn't an adjustable restirctor better than a dumb restrictor?
Last edited by BigBadChris; 01-23-2016 at 11:51 AM.
#375
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
Update time
So, what happened to my car?
Basically, I needed an entirely new motor. The back housing was lapped, and was out of spec. The back of the center housing was lapped....and was out of spec. The front housing was good....except it had a big crack through the motor mount on the passenger side.
Three trashed housings. I gave in to temptation, and decided that I needed to go six port. New six port housings and stationary gears have been ordered. I just completed a large eBay order, all the parts I think I need to do the swap. Ari also has a donor car, so the ECU and ABS computers will match. He did not plan on pulling that motor (it is ruined), so I decided to buy donor parts rather than pay someone to strip a car. I will be sourcing the driveshaft and transmission from the donor car, as well as things I may have left off my eBay order.
The only thing that is still up in the air is the transmission (JDM 5 speed or USDM 6 speed) and the fuel delivery. I am tempted by the KG parts rails and a return fuel system. I know its overkill, I know that very few members have done it successfully. but it is worth looking into. A 1:1 fuel pressure regulator just makes sense.
Also did some googling based on some other threads that have been updated lately, and found a "turbo oill pressure regulator". Not as elaborate as 9k's DIY job, but interesting none the less. It is sold by a little shop calling themselves Freelance Motorsports. For 125 bucks, it might be worth the peace of mind to keep the turbo happy.
I plan on repurposing the ACS twin cool to take the heat off the turbo water, and then return it to the system. I dont think transmission or differential fluid is worth the effort, I will not be doing auto X or pushing the car to its limits.
Work continues on the Sohn adapter, it is in Ari's court to modify the turbo intake piping to make room for the sandwich plate.
More to come this week
So, what happened to my car?
Basically, I needed an entirely new motor. The back housing was lapped, and was out of spec. The back of the center housing was lapped....and was out of spec. The front housing was good....except it had a big crack through the motor mount on the passenger side.
Three trashed housings. I gave in to temptation, and decided that I needed to go six port. New six port housings and stationary gears have been ordered. I just completed a large eBay order, all the parts I think I need to do the swap. Ari also has a donor car, so the ECU and ABS computers will match. He did not plan on pulling that motor (it is ruined), so I decided to buy donor parts rather than pay someone to strip a car. I will be sourcing the driveshaft and transmission from the donor car, as well as things I may have left off my eBay order.
The only thing that is still up in the air is the transmission (JDM 5 speed or USDM 6 speed) and the fuel delivery. I am tempted by the KG parts rails and a return fuel system. I know its overkill, I know that very few members have done it successfully. but it is worth looking into. A 1:1 fuel pressure regulator just makes sense.
Also did some googling based on some other threads that have been updated lately, and found a "turbo oill pressure regulator". Not as elaborate as 9k's DIY job, but interesting none the less. It is sold by a little shop calling themselves Freelance Motorsports. For 125 bucks, it might be worth the peace of mind to keep the turbo happy.
I plan on repurposing the ACS twin cool to take the heat off the turbo water, and then return it to the system. I dont think transmission or differential fluid is worth the effort, I will not be doing auto X or pushing the car to its limits.
Work continues on the Sohn adapter, it is in Ari's court to modify the turbo intake piping to make room for the sandwich plate.
More to come this week
Man ..... your saga is beginning to take on epic proportions !