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Update! Got some pictures, and a lot of progress. Installation is complete, all it needs is some oil and we are ready to fire it up. Tuning should be early next week, and my favorite new toy will be back home.
New .67 hotside, and ceramic coated.
RX8 Performance high capacity oil pan, with temperature sensor fitting.
The beast has a heart!
Powder coated intercooler. Really didnt like how the silver looked in the grill. Yes, it will decrease performance, but I am okay with the trade off
Last edited by BigBadChris; 08-16-2015 at 08:55 PM.
Reason: Added photo, typo
Looks good dude.... You have any pics of the manifold? Looks to me like the turbo sits quite a bit higher and more forward than the Greddy? Forgive me if it was mentioned earlier in the thread but is it a different motor mount to be able to fit everything?
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 08-05-2015 at 09:06 PM.
Thanks, RotaryMachine. I did not get a picture of the manifold. Scott was short staffed at the shop, so he just took some as he went along. It is one of the Mazsport manifolds from back in the day. It is a custom motor mount. They are similar to his current offerings.
Last edited by BigBadChris; 08-05-2015 at 09:48 PM.
All I was saying was the kit in the photo is the stage 1 original kit from Mazsport.
Your current kit was adapted from that. The mounts are much better than before. Just figured you may want to know..
Oh, yes. I was only posting the type 1 photo for the manifold.
Edit: photo removed for clarity.
Only a few more items left to do. Switching to a more durable Automatic Transmission Fluid, some of the other high power automatic guys reported a very short (less than 5k miles) lifespan of the factory ATF when running FI. Thinking about removing the oil pressure gauge from the RB triple pod and getting a trans temp gauge instead. I dont plan on doing autocross or anything like that, but I would like to go to some track days and let the car stretch its legs. Im hoping that a gauge will help me keep it under control. I know the motor wont last forever, but I would like to avoid a transmission rebuild if it all possible.
Last edited by BigBadChris; 08-06-2015 at 11:09 AM.
Reason: typo
It has been a long process. Scott was a true professional in regards to what I wanted done. If that means that sometimes another project got worked on while my car sat in the shop, so be it. Its the Golden Triangle: Speed, Cost, Quality. You get to pick two. I am happy with my choice.
We are hoping between 12 and 15 psi. Scott has not mounted this turbo to a 4 port before, so we are not exactly sure how it will respond. Obviously I will not be daily driving at that level, more like 7 or 8.
It was that or the .81. I was hoping for quicker spool, so we went with the smaller one. I will also have the .81, in case I want to change it up.
It depends on what you settle on as peak boost . I'm thinking it will be hard to suppress detonation if you want to run anything over 12-13psi with that 0.67 housing .
When I'm tuning for people with the stock glass apexs I always recommend staying below 10 psi .......... you will really be on the edge IMO.
There was discussion of water methanol to suppress detonation. Unfortunately time ran out, and we didn't get it installed. It, along with the Sake Bomb ignition and possibly an electric water pump, will come in the spring. If that means I drive six months at low boost, I am okay with that compromise. (Yes, the water pump won't help detonation, but I feel that more power boost means more power means hotter engine bay).
I understand stock apex seals cannot withstand detonation. I am currently looking into Goopy seals, I believe that's what you run, Brett?
There was discussion of water methanol to suppress detonation. Unfortunately time ran out, and we didn't get it installed. It, along with the Sake Bomb ignition and possibly an electric water pump, will come in the spring. If that means I drive six months at low boost, I am okay with that compromise. (Yes, the water pump won't help detonation, but I feel that more power boost means more power means hotter engine bay).
I understand stock apex seals cannot withstand detonation. I am currently looking into Goopy seals, I believe that's what you run, Brett?
No ... I'm running deep ALS seals . They can take a beating but you still do lose compression if you have a decent detonation event (As mine have) .
The good thing is you don't destroy the engine as they bend and don't break.