Okay so a couple weeks I purchased a Greddy Turbo kit from Fluid Motorsports. I been reading every thread possible on the greddy and found that should I install it just as is my engine and transmission will be hurting after a while. If you see something that I might need to fix or purchase to make this a reality please feel free to help me out.

I have purchased a couple more things from Fluid such as:

- Greddy High Capacity Oil Pan
- Greddy Type RS Blow-Off Valve
- Greddy Oil Filter Relocation Kit
- Prosport Premium Boost Gauge
- Prosport Premium Oil Tempature Gauge
- Prosport Premium Oil Pressure Gauge
- Prosport Premium Water Tempature Gauge
- Prosport Premium Air Fuel Gauge
- Prosport Premium EGT Gauge
- Racing Beat Gauge Pod
- Greddy Super Light Oil Catch Can
- Esmeril Racing RX-8 Ignition Upgrade (MazdaParts.Com)
- Esmeril Racing Spark Plugs (MazdaParts.Com)

I talked to Greddy and they said this couldn't be done but it seems that everyone with AT Turbo uses the COBB Access Port from MM (http://www.mazdamaniac.com/cobb/accessport.htm) which I should be purchasing today or tomorrow.

Now for cooling I have ordered a lot of the http://www.pettitracing.com wraps to keep heat down.

1 Wrap, TBW 20' $34.99 $34.99
1 Turbo Cover $159.00 $159.00
1 Panel, TBP 2'x2' $49.00 $49.00

I also plan on either buying the AEM Water / Methanol Injection Kit 1 Gallon or BHR AT Radiator. Cost $650 but should be able to help. I do have a AEM CAI but not sure if it will work with the Turbo or not.






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Updates:
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1. Installed Greddy Oil Pan (It was fun taking off the old one... $^@&$ lol)
2. Progress F/R Sway Bars with Agency Power Sway Links (Not really part of the turbo install but...

 

Questions I have come up with:

1. E-Manage: Would I need to install this to tune/use the Turbo if I was using the Access Port Maps?

2. How will the transmission fair with the Turbo being mapped by MM. Greddy stated it will blow my transmission.

3. Is there anything different from install? (PDF Attached)

4. Once installed and MAPS are added is it safe to drive to a dyno to get tuned or should it be transported there.

 

1. no

2. not necessarily. if you get the BHR radiator, it should help with that.

3. not really, except you need a custom intake to use the Cobb AP. you also have to get the BOV flange welded on and a recirc fitting if you plan on recirculating.

4. just dont go into boost.

 

Okay. That does make me feel at ease quite a bit. The way the guy from greddy made it sound was as soon as you turn it on every things going to go pop. Did you upgrade fuel injectors?

Also for the mapping do you have to set that you have a custom intake, exhuast, fuel injectors, etc etc or would it auto configure it?

 

i have not installed mine yet.(still waiting to get stuff welded) you shouldn't need to change the fuel injectors unless you are upgrading your turbo. at least thats what my plans are. there are many people still using the stock injectors though.

when you get your Cobb AP, you will install a base map. that will just get your car running and allow you to make some runs for data taking. when you make those runs, you send the data to MM and tell him what your mods are and he will send you new maps.

 

Gotcha. Was curious on how MM did the upgrades for everyone. Did you still get your turbo tuned by someone or just went with what he provided? I have a guy that does a lot of the rotary turbo's that will tune it for free (favor) once its installed.

 

 

Stock injectors are supposed to be good to about 300 whp (which you won't be able to hit with a GReddy turbo). A lot of people have changed to different oil and transmission fluid once they have installed a turbo. Careful though. The wrong fluids could tank an engine or shred a gear syncro.

No offense to your friend but I would go with MM's tunes for the turbo kit. Make sure you buy the AP from him, and you'll recieve 6 months of free MAPS. Whereas if your friend tunes it for you and its not quite right you have to ask another favor from him or pay someone else to correct the tune. Again, MM does it for free for 6 months. He's also tuned Easy E1's auto RX8 to rev to 9,000 RPM on a 75 shot of nitrous. I'll definitely stay tuned to this thread. In 6-8 months when I'm out of basic training and A school I may be in the market for FI. Trying to learn as much as I can, and this site is a killer place to start.

 

Damn. I'm about to purchase the AP from him but should I get the 2004 AT - NA or 2004 AT - FI (I don't have the turbo on just yet).

Your in the military? I did 4 years active army 11B and when I got out I went to the guard to be a recruiter until I'm done school. Thats where I get all this money to put in to the car lol Once I pick up my E-6 in a month or two I should be set.

 

it doesn't really matter which one you order. you install the maps on it once you connect it to your computer.

 

^Correct. The base map is for your specific car, but you'll find different ones available for different applications.

And yeah I'm signed up to go into the Navy for 6 years active. I leave in less than two months. Can't wait. I start as an E2 in basic and upon graduating A school I become an E4. I'm really good with my money (I bought my car when I was 18 with very little help from my parents) and still manage to keep my head above water even with a shitty little cashier job I have right now.

 

Ok. Just Purchased lol.

 

Sweet! Congrats and I take it you looked at my build thread?

I personally do not like my RS TypeS BOV. If I had the money I'd get the Synaspe Engeering Synchronic BOV. Much better response. Also If I had the money to blow I'd get 2 EGT's. One for each rotor.

Which EGT?

I like this list. That little turbo and manifold adds some extra heat to the engine bay Polydyn coating also helps to control the heat.
The AEM can be, just needs to be modified. I believe the mod requires a 4-5 " reduction in on of the pipes..(i know really helpful).[/QUOTE]

Sell the EMU. The AP is much better in everyway for tuning and driving. The AP provides a stock feel on the engine chacteristics, for normal cruise. Much smoother transition into boost and the cruise control works. Also can increse the amt of oil injected for better lubrication. The cruise function with the EMU was very touchy. Mine would lurch on the highway when I ran the EMU.

Between Phil's 8 (sc'd) and myself our trannys should be toast by now.. Running 9psi for my turbo. Still works fine (oem fluid ) I do swear by the BHR radiator. and while you're at it get the Mazparts RE-medy water pump. I Don't have itm, but the OEM water pump is absolutly useless at any SUSTAINED RPM higher than 4k.

Typical legalese.
As nuke said already, stay out of boost until tuned..

4port or 6port?
4port provides ~1570 cc of fuel. good for about 9psi
6port provides 2100cc good for about 10-12..

If asking for tuned maps from MM include all of the spefecis (sp) in MM's 10 deadly questions.

Git the frick on the BALL !

 

Sweet. Wish I had cash like that to blow lol

Curious to know, why the EGT gauge? You already have an AFR gauge so...

 

yeah, yeah.

 

you could also look into adding a tranny cooler and another oil cooler if you dont have 2

 

09Factor - Yep read everything you've posted lol. Made sure I don't f this up and trying to learn everything before I start. I almost rushed in and set it up with just the kit, nothing else. The EGT is Prosport Premium EGT Gauge 52mm.

You think MM could tune the turbo via the internet? Or take it once to a tuner then record the data and send it to MM?

Nuke - soon you'll be set lol.

Red Rex - Congrats on going Navy, you'll love the military.

N Rider - Yeah I'm actually thinking about it to insure that the set up wont take a hit.

 

Looks to me like this will be a successfull instal by someone wgho has done their homework .
Good luck with the install markryan and keep us posted with progress .

I didn't see upgraded couplers on your list - although if you plan on staying at low boost they are not essential.

 

I was planning on staying around 5-6 if I stick with daily use but I wouldn't mine doing 9+ if possible. Which couplers do you recommend for higher boost?

Also just read your thread and thats a great idea to ceramic the mainfold and exhaust. Going to try and get that done this weekend.

 

Very good catch Brett.
Mark, the greddy couplers suck. They are a single ply hard rubber/polyethelene. The coupler that connects the turbo discharge pipe to the intercooler (a 2 -2 1/2") usually is the first to crack and fail.
mine did and oh what a kick to the stomach after hearing that POP!

To do it right the first time, a 4 or 5 ply sillycone from Vibrant,Samco, with a T-bolt clamp setup would be perfect.

MM has done most of my tunes with data I have provided him. We have also done a couple actual street/dyno tunes.

9+ psi is very doable on a 4port. I would upgrade the secondary 480's to the newer 2009 570s cc injectors. Then move the 480's to the primary position.

280 * 2 + 480 * 2 = 1520 cc's of fuel Good enough for safe greddy psi of 9
480 * 2 + 570 * 2 = 2100 cc's of fuel Good enough for safe greddy psi of more that 9 (i know,vague)
This will be my new injector setup..soon I hope.

The AP map can easily be configured for any size of injector for the Primaries and Secondaries. Just tell MM as part of the new map request process.

 

09factor - thanks. I'll search to order the couplers later today. I'll check to find the injectors too.

 

A BHR radiator will be one of the additions you will need and I see that you are considering one. I see that 09 factor has mentioned the stamina of our AT. The tranny does not seem to be bothered by mid boost.

 

^^ first gear is fun isn't it?

 

if MM does a group tuning session around there you could have him do it. Im sure there are enough people around if you would organize it.

 

Nice to see one more Turbo AT up by NY i hope to see you and your car at some meet/shows this year. Welcome to the club