How usable is 7500rpm in the real world?
#1
How usable is 7500rpm in the real world?
How often do you get to see 7500rpm without going over PSL? How often do you feel 7500rpm is not enough for everyday driving and you wish you can go all the way to 9500rpm?
Last edited by nsu; 02-22-2010 at 02:32 AM.
#3
are you talking about only automatics i asume?
if so I answer you're question with another question. Why did you buy an automatic sports car expecting it to be something it isn't.
Of course, if you aren't talking about just autos... then what are you talking about?
if so I answer you're question with another question. Why did you buy an automatic sports car expecting it to be something it isn't.
Of course, if you aren't talking about just autos... then what are you talking about?
#4
Hes talking about auto's i assume since this is in the Auto thread section, Lucky for me though I didnt buy a auto, It was given to me... Im selling mine and should be picking up a Winning Blue...
#5
I own a manual now and I really miss my AT.
#14
So 9k is safe enough for the 4AT tranny, with the proper cooling of course? I did 8 auto-x laps in mine that has the 7500rpm redline, and by the time I got home, the fans ran for 5 minutes straight after shutting down the car.
#15
^^^ From what ive read the 4AT tranny is strong and can handle alot, but a second tranny cooler or BHR's Radiator for AT's is pretty much all you need if you want to raise your redline (for cooling purposes obviously... you still need the Cobb AP), but theres definately NO point in going to 9k in the 4-port auto (not sure about the 6-port, I forgot what the dyno graphs looked like for them) because ALL the power drops off at about 8K - 8.2K rpms so most people have the redline set ~ at 8.5K-8.6K to gearing purposes so they dont have to shift constantly, so you have some give; just like the 6MT's max power is at 8.5K and the redline is at 9k... gearing purposes and it gives you some room...
Anything about 8.6k in a 4port is useless and just a waste of gas and more wear/tear/heat that your tranny doesn't need... Isn't that right Easy
Anything about 8.6k in a 4port is useless and just a waste of gas and more wear/tear/heat that your tranny doesn't need... Isn't that right Easy
Last edited by WTBRotary!; 02-23-2010 at 02:26 AM.
#16
^^^ From what ive read the 4AT tranny is strong and can handle alot, but a second tranny cooler or BHR's Radiator for AT's is pretty much all you need if you want to raise your redline (for cooling purposes obviously... you still need the Cobb AP), but theres definately NO point in going to 9k in the 4-port auto (not sure about the 6-port, I forgot what the dyno graphs looked like for them) because ALL the power drops off at about 8K - 8.2K rpms so most people have the redline set ~ at 8.5K-8.6K to gearing purposes so they dont have to shift constantly, so you have some give; just like the 6MT's max power is at 8.5K and the redline is at 9k... gearing purposes and it gives you some room...
Anything about 8.6k in a 4port is useless and just a waste of gas and more wear/tear/heat that your tranny doesn't need... Isn't that right Easy
Anything about 8.6k in a 4port is useless and just a waste of gas and more wear/tear/heat that your tranny doesn't need... Isn't that right Easy
#17
Gearing has nothing to do with engine output. It'll affect power transmission. Your engine will still run out of steam at 8600 rpms, regardless of your gearing. The gearing would just put you at a different speed.
The 6-port engine tops out at 8600rpm. Some guys like to shift above it so they land above 7000rpms in the next gear (shifting drops it by 2000-2500rpms??).
The 6-port engine tops out at 8600rpm. Some guys like to shift above it so they land above 7000rpms in the next gear (shifting drops it by 2000-2500rpms??).
#18
were you running in 1st the whole time?
#19
I see 7500 daily son! but I also go over the PSL when it's on a safe road of course :-)
I have a 6AT also, interesting to hear it can rev higher with supporting mods. It would be even more interesting if someone would do it and post a dyno so we can all see if it's worth the time and money :-)
I have a 6AT also, interesting to hear it can rev higher with supporting mods. It would be even more interesting if someone would do it and post a dyno so we can all see if it's worth the time and money :-)
#20
I see 7500 daily son! but I also go over the PSL when it's on a safe road of course :-)
I have a 6AT also, interesting to hear it can rev higher with supporting mods. It would be even more interesting if someone would do it and post a dyno so we can all see if it's worth the time and money :-)
I have a 6AT also, interesting to hear it can rev higher with supporting mods. It would be even more interesting if someone would do it and post a dyno so we can all see if it's worth the time and money :-)
The 6AT is rated at 212HP at 7500rpm (I believe this is the rating, can someone confirm?) - so there is the difference.
Supporting mods - an AP, and a second oil cooler, and the Mazmart water pump. The additional mods that Nuke suggested (thermostat, radiator, better fans) are not necessary in my opinion for a N/A car, unless you do have some cooling issues already (i.e. the OP).
#22
is all depends yr purpose...
REALLY daily drive, you don't even need 6000rpms
I shift at 2.5K on my MX3 and Miata
But for track or race, you are always hungry for rpms, and gears...
I love my 4AT daily drive but on the track, I always hope I have 1 more gear...and 2more Ks rpm
REALLY daily drive, you don't even need 6000rpms
I shift at 2.5K on my MX3 and Miata
But for track or race, you are always hungry for rpms, and gears...
I love my 4AT daily drive but on the track, I always hope I have 1 more gear...and 2more Ks rpm
#23
This statement is a little confusing. The Renesis is a 232HP engine, rated 8500rpms. Your tachometer is about 500rpms off at 8000-9000 rpms, so therefore reaching 9000 rpms would be the 232HP rating.
The 6AT is rated at 212HP at 7500rpm (I believe this is the rating, can someone confirm?) - so there is the difference.
Supporting mods - an AP, and a second oil cooler, and the Mazmart water pump. The additional mods that Nuke suggested (thermostat, radiator, better fans) are not necessary in my opinion for a N/A car, unless you do have some cooling issues already (i.e. the OP).
The 6AT is rated at 212HP at 7500rpm (I believe this is the rating, can someone confirm?) - so there is the difference.
Supporting mods - an AP, and a second oil cooler, and the Mazmart water pump. The additional mods that Nuke suggested (thermostat, radiator, better fans) are not necessary in my opinion for a N/A car, unless you do have some cooling issues already (i.e. the OP).
#25
No fair