AT to MT swap
#226
That's why I figured the auto ECU would be easier to use, because it's already be paired to the parts in the car. I guess I'll see for myself, if anything goes wrong I can use the ECU that comes with the motor I'm getting, and have it reprogrammed using FORscan or what have you.
#227
is your price of 2500-2800 with an engine or without?
If you can find a manual tranny for 1500 and already have a 6port AT engine, all that is necessary is a tranny swap, guage cluster, pcm, and clutch kit?
how hard would it be for a local place to do this? Like pretty much swap the tranny and clutch kit. Is it an average joe job to install a guage cluster and pcm?
If you can find a manual tranny for 1500 and already have a 6port AT engine, all that is necessary is a tranny swap, guage cluster, pcm, and clutch kit?
how hard would it be for a local place to do this? Like pretty much swap the tranny and clutch kit. Is it an average joe job to install a guage cluster and pcm?
#228
Well I'll put my money where my mouth is and see for myself
#230
Registered
iTrader: (25)
Let’s be clear; 6 or 5 speed is irrelevant. It’s not any easier, it’s exactly the same as far as installation and general operation goes. The difference is the 5-spd has larger gaps between gears. In theory the 4-port had more mid range torque to offset that. In reality the 6-spd is likely faster and sportier for that same reason. The 5-spd is stronger, but maybe a moot point in a naturally aspirated 4-port.
My bet is you have a potty mouth and that’s where you’ll be flushing your money down and away in
Not only will you not be using FORscan to reprogram this pcm, but you can’t program functions that don’t exist in it to begin with. You clearly aren’t doing due diligence to educate yourself on the subject first, then proceed with logical action second.
My bet is you have a potty mouth and that’s where you’ll be flushing your money down and away in
Not only will you not be using FORscan to reprogram this pcm, but you can’t program functions that don’t exist in it to begin with. You clearly aren’t doing due diligence to educate yourself on the subject first, then proceed with logical action second.
The following users liked this post:
ASH8 (03-28-2020)
#231
Let’s be clear; 6 or 5 speed is irrelevant. It’s not any easier, it’s exactly the same as far as installation and general operation goes. The difference is the 5-spd has larger gaps between gears. In theory the 4-port had more mid range torque to offset that. In reality the 6-spd is likely faster and sportier for that same reason. The 5-spd is stronger, but maybe a moot point in a naturally aspirated 4-port.
My bet is you have a potty mouth and that’s where you’ll be flushing your money down and away in
Not only will you not be using FORscan to reprogram this pcm, but you can’t program functions that don’t exist in it to begin with. You clearly aren’t doing due diligence to educate yourself on the subject first, then proceed with logical action second.
My bet is you have a potty mouth and that’s where you’ll be flushing your money down and away in
Not only will you not be using FORscan to reprogram this pcm, but you can’t program functions that don’t exist in it to begin with. You clearly aren’t doing due diligence to educate yourself on the subject first, then proceed with logical action second.
#232
Super Moderator
Cool it guys...
Any further heated postings and a force 7 day HOLIDAY will be summoned forthwith.
Just to add, Do Not Attempt Any swaps unless you are mechanically competent, do lots of reading here and understand the process.
YES the mechanical part is relatively easy, THE ISSUE is the electrics, like control modules, some switches and yes wiring.
I don't care if it is an AT into a MT frame or a 4 Port Engine into a 6 Port or Visa Versa.
PLUS, what Your Personal 'Finished' and Working Standards are that is acceptable to you, what works and what does not work.
It is NOT a simple or easy task...PERIOD.
Any further heated postings and a force 7 day HOLIDAY will be summoned forthwith.
Just to add, Do Not Attempt Any swaps unless you are mechanically competent, do lots of reading here and understand the process.
YES the mechanical part is relatively easy, THE ISSUE is the electrics, like control modules, some switches and yes wiring.
I don't care if it is an AT into a MT frame or a 4 Port Engine into a 6 Port or Visa Versa.
PLUS, what Your Personal 'Finished' and Working Standards are that is acceptable to you, what works and what does not work.
It is NOT a simple or easy task...PERIOD.
The following users liked this post:
WankeyYankey (03-28-2020)
#233
Cool it guys...
Any further heated postings and a force 7 day HOLIDAY will be summoned forthwith.
Just to add, Do Not Attempt Any swaps unless you are mechanically competent, do lots of reading here and understand the process.
YES the mechanical part is relatively easy, THE ISSUE is the electrics, like control modules, some switches and yes wiring.
I don't care if it is an AT into a MT frame or a 4 Port Engine into a 6 Port or Visa Versa.
PLUS, what Your Personal 'Finished' and Working Standards are that is acceptable to you, what works and what does not work.
It is NOT a simple or easy task...PERIOD.
Any further heated postings and a force 7 day HOLIDAY will be summoned forthwith.
Just to add, Do Not Attempt Any swaps unless you are mechanically competent, do lots of reading here and understand the process.
YES the mechanical part is relatively easy, THE ISSUE is the electrics, like control modules, some switches and yes wiring.
I don't care if it is an AT into a MT frame or a 4 Port Engine into a 6 Port or Visa Versa.
PLUS, what Your Personal 'Finished' and Working Standards are that is acceptable to you, what works and what does not work.
It is NOT a simple or easy task...PERIOD.
#234
Super Moderator
Generally a poster will 'quote you' directly IF they are being specific.
Or a post submitted directly after your own (not quoted) is considered to be directed to you.
Take care and '''Stop the Spread""...keep your distance from others and wash your hands regularly.
#235
That's OK, you are a new member...we wont extradite you to Siberia yet, unless you go too far
Generally a poster will 'quote you' directly IF they are being specific.
Or a post submitted directly after your own (not quoted) is considered to be directed to you.
Take care and '''Stop the Spread""...keep your distance from others and wash your hands regularly.
Generally a poster will 'quote you' directly IF they are being specific.
Or a post submitted directly after your own (not quoted) is considered to be directed to you.
Take care and '''Stop the Spread""...keep your distance from others and wash your hands regularly.
#236
Registered
iTrader: (25)
if you were even paying attention at all it’d be more than clear who was being referred to, because it addressed multiple statements by the same person, but let me help you out some and then maybe you can go back and review all the recent posts to be more clear about it how each point referred back to what:
after being on here for 15 years I’ve seen my share of people with hair-trigger typing fingers. My motto to all newbies is to “read more and post less”. Because you’d also then know it’s not an attitude, it’s just me.
.
after being on here for 15 years I’ve seen my share of people with hair-trigger typing fingers. My motto to all newbies is to “read more and post less”. Because you’d also then know it’s not an attitude, it’s just me.
.
#237
if you were even paying attention at all it’d be more than clear who was being referred to, because it addressed multiple statements by the same person, but let me help you out some and then maybe you can go back and review all the recent posts to be more clear about it how each point referred back to what:
after being on here for 15 years I’ve seen my share of people with hair-trigger typing fingers. My motto to all newbies is to “read more and post less”. Because you’d also then know it’s not an attitude, it’s just me.
.
after being on here for 15 years I’ve seen my share of people with hair-trigger typing fingers. My motto to all newbies is to “read more and post less”. Because you’d also then know it’s not an attitude, it’s just me.
.
#239
So glad I found this thread I’ve been looking into doing this exact same thing on my 04 automatic since the transmission suicided recently if you’ve got any tips for me since I’ve got the same year car as you did your swap on would be much appreciated
#240
Keeping AT PCM
What kind of issues could be expected if the 4-port engine and AT PCM are kept and just the transmission is swapped? The reason for this configuration is that in order to pass inspection in my state, the VIN of the PCM/ECU must match the chassis VIN.
Those of you that have temporarily used the AT PCM before you got the MT PCM sorted, did you notice any drivability issues? Did you read the CEL codes that came up?
Of the codes/faults that the PCM would throw due to the missing automatic transmission hardware, are there any that can't be cleared through VersaTuner or MazdaEdit?
Those of you that have temporarily used the AT PCM before you got the MT PCM sorted, did you notice any drivability issues? Did you read the CEL codes that came up?
Of the codes/faults that the PCM would throw due to the missing automatic transmission hardware, are there any that can't be cleared through VersaTuner or MazdaEdit?
#241
I am amazed this thread is alive since 2008. Kudos to Kevin and all of you. I am in the midst of a 2005 4 port Auto Shinka conversion to 6 port Manual. Picked up a 2007 salvage from VA as a donor car and is just about a carcass at this point. My past 2008 40th Anniversary lives on the endurance track circuit with American Endurance Racing and after a bunch of cool cars in between I am ready to go full circle for my street/track car with the 2005 Shinka converted to manual and otherwise restored. I did correspond with Kevin and he is a nice and helpful gentleman. Somewhere above Kevin made comment that if you didn't like the clutch pedal switch(es) "pigtail" approach (requires one switch for starter and one for PCM to know how to manage idle with or without the clutch engaged/disengaged and to disengage cruise if clutch is depressed) by taking the whole interior out including the dash and HVAC to swap the AT body harness to the MT body harness. Totally unnecessary as Kevin said. I thought the attached photo might give you some insight on what that would involve. Also SaturnNights, your stuff above is spot on and awesome. Thanks for the tip on avoiding having to run a wire to PCM from clutch and using the AT control to PCM now unused harness for a donor wire. Fantastic.
Last edited by syelenik; 12-09-2020 at 08:25 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by syelenik:
chanrx8 (05-15-2021),
SaturnNiGHTS (06-02-2021)
#242
my AT to MT swap
I just returned from east TN after Rotary Resurrection did a AT to MT on my 2004 RX8.
Read more here:
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...1/#post4943313
Read more here:
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...1/#post4943313
The following users liked this post:
chanrx8 (05-15-2021)
#244
so far i have confirmed the engine harnesses are identical between 6port motors , successfully started another 2006 AT with my 2007AT steering column and key switched out (2006AT red shinka had a bad steering column)
mazda says they want nothing to do with helping me sort the keys so im in a pickle.. the 2007AT CWP has a key for the door and trunk that now go with the red cars steering column, and ill have a ecu from 2004 MT car with old keys and not sure if its gonna start lol. i have repaired the 2006AT red shinka steering column and put it back in the 2007 CWP because of the smart key thing... probably gonna have to swap both again i guess
mazda says they want nothing to do with helping me sort the keys so im in a pickle.. the 2007AT CWP has a key for the door and trunk that now go with the red cars steering column, and ill have a ecu from 2004 MT car with old keys and not sure if its gonna start lol. i have repaired the 2006AT red shinka steering column and put it back in the 2007 CWP because of the smart key thing... probably gonna have to swap both again i guess
#246
Installing the flywheel was super simple with the counterweight already there ... the reman block has 22k on it now and has been well tested the past 8 months.
Gonna get everything cleaned up and harness swapped tomorrow. The shinka subframe is goin in as well with the urethane (very freakin rigid stuff not foam)
Gonna get everything cleaned up and harness swapped tomorrow. The shinka subframe is goin in as well with the urethane (very freakin rigid stuff not foam)
#247
Just learned that this shinka is #1499/1500.... sad to see it get stripped its so clean and the red looks nice in the engine bay. I guess i will just have to manual swap this one too :P
#248
I have accomplished a lot today everything in the engine bay is done and all power working but havent tried starting yet its too late for straight header :P
I am struggling with the power plant frame seems like its 1 inch shorter than it should be but i know they are no different between auto and manual because of this thread and am confused atm. gonna drop the rear subframe since last step is also put the rear shocks in and see if i can get it bolted together first then install the subframe..i doubt anyone is gonna respond here in time so back at it tomorrow!
I am struggling with the power plant frame seems like its 1 inch shorter than it should be but i know they are no different between auto and manual because of this thread and am confused atm. gonna drop the rear subframe since last step is also put the rear shocks in and see if i can get it bolted together first then install the subframe..i doubt anyone is gonna respond here in time so back at it tomorrow!
#249
New Member
lucky you, you get a response.
the powerplant frame connects the tail of the transmission to the rear differential. the powerplant frame itself will only be able to be bolted up once those two pieces are within reasonable alignment with each other.
you might find that you have to carefully jack up the transmission to be further up in the trans tunnel before you're able to line up the powerplant frame holes with the transmission.
as an aside, i recommend that you make use of the tunnel brace that has the threaded hole in it, because that threaded hole [and an appropriate length bolt] is used for final pitch/alignment of the powerplant frame, and by extension, the pitch/alignment of the transmission and rear differential. i'm sure one can eyeball it, but there's a spec for the bolt protrusion within the FSM.
you're almost there. keep it up
the powerplant frame connects the tail of the transmission to the rear differential. the powerplant frame itself will only be able to be bolted up once those two pieces are within reasonable alignment with each other.
you might find that you have to carefully jack up the transmission to be further up in the trans tunnel before you're able to line up the powerplant frame holes with the transmission.
as an aside, i recommend that you make use of the tunnel brace that has the threaded hole in it, because that threaded hole [and an appropriate length bolt] is used for final pitch/alignment of the powerplant frame, and by extension, the pitch/alignment of the transmission and rear differential. i'm sure one can eyeball it, but there's a spec for the bolt protrusion within the FSM.
you're almost there. keep it up
Last edited by SaturnNiGHTS; 06-04-2021 at 11:56 PM. Reason: removed spurious word
#250
Your Power Plant Frame (PPF) may be same auto and manual or not. There was a change from 4 speed auto to 6 speed auto. Earlier models you need a manual or later S1 PPF. And yes it may not fit together until everything else is in place (engine and rear diff horizontal not tilted and then the PPF is slid up in level position with two people raising it together, one in the front and one in the rear. You can do it alone if you have done it before or use jacks in front and rear and keep it level while PPF is goin up.