AT oil cooler - DIY fitted
#1
AT oil cooler - DIY fitted
As we all know, when it comes to transmission oil cooling the "heat exchanger" within the lower tank of the radiator is bearly adequate.
The JC Cosmo + FD RX-7 both had trans oil coolers & for good reason.
Its a shame the FE RX-8 doesn't even have this as an option so I decided to do something about it on my 03-model 4AT.
Picked up an FD RX-7 AT cooler for $00.00. (Considered the JC cooler but it was physically too large)Removed nose in 30 minutes flat (How easy are these cars hey) & started work.
1st step was to "dummy" the FD oil cooler into place. Worth noting is that the FD & FE coolers have totally different mounting points requiring the production of a custom bracket.
Next was to draw up the bracket required & fit it once some 2mm bar was bent into place & painted an obscure colour.
Now it was time to cut out the plastic blanking cover with the help of my highly technical assistant. Daddy says "Thankyou sweetheart".
Now was the time to fit the cooler after removing the FD ducting which is not suitable for the FE application.
Then finally after the nose was re-fitted, the finished look giving a mirror image of the engine oil cooler on the left side of the car.
Next weekend, I will plumb the cooler with lines from the heat exchanger. I'll do the plumbing from transmission to cooler - to heat exchanger - to transmission.
This method will take plenty of heat out the oil & reduce the strain on the heat exchanger resulting in better temp control for the radiator.
Total cost for the venture so far is $5 for the 2mm steel plate but I expect the transmission lines & coupling will cost me another $30
Still, a worthy mod for the 4AT guys to consider & do over a weekend.
REgards
The JC Cosmo + FD RX-7 both had trans oil coolers & for good reason.
Its a shame the FE RX-8 doesn't even have this as an option so I decided to do something about it on my 03-model 4AT.
Picked up an FD RX-7 AT cooler for $00.00. (Considered the JC cooler but it was physically too large)Removed nose in 30 minutes flat (How easy are these cars hey) & started work.
1st step was to "dummy" the FD oil cooler into place. Worth noting is that the FD & FE coolers have totally different mounting points requiring the production of a custom bracket.
Next was to draw up the bracket required & fit it once some 2mm bar was bent into place & painted an obscure colour.
Now it was time to cut out the plastic blanking cover with the help of my highly technical assistant. Daddy says "Thankyou sweetheart".
Now was the time to fit the cooler after removing the FD ducting which is not suitable for the FE application.
Then finally after the nose was re-fitted, the finished look giving a mirror image of the engine oil cooler on the left side of the car.
Next weekend, I will plumb the cooler with lines from the heat exchanger. I'll do the plumbing from transmission to cooler - to heat exchanger - to transmission.
This method will take plenty of heat out the oil & reduce the strain on the heat exchanger resulting in better temp control for the radiator.
Total cost for the venture so far is $5 for the 2mm steel plate but I expect the transmission lines & coupling will cost me another $30
Still, a worthy mod for the 4AT guys to consider & do over a weekend.
REgards
#3
you should change the name of the thread to tranny cooler instead of oil cooler. i thought you were actually making another oil cooler. speaking of, since it was that easy to get it in there, what connections would have to be made to make it an extra oil cooler?
#7
Hard to "state" dimensions but I will try.
Note unused holes on the body part of the bracket. They were "Position-1" before I worked out the cooler needs to be raised a few cm. So everything is in reference to position-1 holes WRT to holes in the upper right & lower left tabs for the cooler bolts.
Front view
Body captive bolts. Distance between each = 132mm
Captive bolt to upper right mounting tab = 26mm
Captive bolt to lower left mounting tab = 95mm
Top view
Body captive bolt extending forward to upper right mounting hole = 30mm
Body captive bolt extending right to upper right mounting hole = 53mm
Body captive bolt extending forward to lower left mounting hole = 77mm
Body captive bolt extending left tolower left mounting hole = 42mm
Metal width = 30mm
Metal thickness = 02mm
I hope that makes sense to you.......??
REgards
#11
When I installed the BHR a/t style radiatiator it has an at cooler tank within it and it works well enough that I removed the a/t after market cooler that I had installed.
#12
Mount the AT Cooler in front of the radiator or get the BHR radiator are both good ways to go about it. Save that 2nd space, so that you have 2 oil coolers.
#13
Had two previously now have a spare. The new rad really works - can't speek enough in it's favor. It's so simple, why did Mazda give us the system that they did? Cooling in the desert is a must. When it's 117 to 120 F it takes a lot of air flow to scrub off all that heat that the 8 makes. The a/t fluid is now about ambiant + 3 degrees F. except under high boost when it goes ambiant + 5 degrees f.
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20b, big, club, cooler, cosmo, ducts, fd, installing, oil, original, physcially, radiatiator, rx8, trans, transmission