vibration at idle
10-06-2007 | 09:27 PM
#26
I really spent months trying to solve this idle problem which is most prevalent after you have removed and replaced the battery terminals. I initially thought it was my Engine Mounts. I'm with my 3rd set of mounts now and the problem still persisted. Subsequently, I thought it was my Gearbox, Coil Pack, Spark cables, plugs, low compression...the list just goes on. Who would have thought a simple 5 min job to clean your throttle body made the whole difference for me. I'll be cleaning it at every oil change now just to be sure. And best of all, it's DIY.
1. Loosen the size 10 fasterner that holds the Filter Box and rubber hose together
2. Unplug the MAF sensor wire
3. Remove the Air Filter Box
4. You should be able to have a direct view of the Throttle Body butterfly
5. Mine had the edges around Throttle Body butterfly stuck with black dirt
5. You can either use a mild detergent or brake dust cleaner and wipe with cloth
6. Wipe it clean and that's it.
I rationalised the reason for the revs to behave badly when the throttle body was dirty purely due to it's inability to have sufficient air flow when there was dirt on the edges. That's why the revs seems to go below 500 rpm and sometimes the engine stalls on its on.
1. Loosen the size 10 fasterner that holds the Filter Box and rubber hose together
2. Unplug the MAF sensor wire
3. Remove the Air Filter Box
4. You should be able to have a direct view of the Throttle Body butterfly
5. Mine had the edges around Throttle Body butterfly stuck with black dirt
5. You can either use a mild detergent or brake dust cleaner and wipe with cloth
6. Wipe it clean and that's it.
I rationalised the reason for the revs to behave badly when the throttle body was dirty purely due to it's inability to have sufficient air flow when there was dirt on the edges. That's why the revs seems to go below 500 rpm and sometimes the engine stalls on its on.
11-13-2007 | 10:18 AM
#29
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: Tampa FL
Yeah, sometimes it is a simple fix. I would consider the spark plugs, coil packs and motor mounts a regular wear item. I have 60k + on my 8 and have had 2 sets of OEM motor mounts fail, at least 6 coils replaced and the spark plugs foul around 20-30k of driving.
I do drive autocross, but am non turbo. I think it is pretty routine. The way I know these kind of things need replacing is the level of shudder in the center of my dash with the AC and recirculating fan is on.
The the spark plugs and coil packs can affect your idle as well.
Mazsport sells all OEM parts if you are looking for a cheaper way to stay in warranty than buying the parts from the dealer. We also offer alternatives for all 3 items for those looking to modify their rx8.
I do drive autocross, but am non turbo. I think it is pretty routine. The way I know these kind of things need replacing is the level of shudder in the center of my dash with the AC and recirculating fan is on.
The the spark plugs and coil packs can affect your idle as well.
Mazsport sells all OEM parts if you are looking for a cheaper way to stay in warranty than buying the parts from the dealer. We also offer alternatives for all 3 items for those looking to modify their rx8.
11-19-2007 | 09:52 AM
#30
Registered RX-8 User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: PA/MD
Mine idles right around 850 (like previously stated from others) after the engine is fully warmed up, and there is a vibration in the stick and you can notice the airbag slightly shakes. Sometimes you can feel a slight shaking but then it goes away (almost in a cyclic cycle). If I just barley give it gas and bring my rpm's up to about 875-925 hard to be exact, you can barley even tell the engine is on, it’s that smooth, no vibrations even thru the stick. Could this be wires, coils, spark, or mounts needing replacing. I understand it’s hard to diagnose without seeing it in person, but any ideas from seasoned RX owners. Also this is all being done with the car in neutral and my foot is off the clutch. While daily/sport driving the car is not sluggish and does not feel like it is down on power. Got my first rotary this summer ('04 MT 35,000 miles all 100% stock) and love ever second of it.
Thanks
Thanks
11-19-2007 | 05:58 PM
#31
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne
Had my engine replace Dec 2006, and the problem was still there. not sure if they change the engine mount or not. then i put the mircotech piggy back into it, helps the car not to stall, but the problem still there. and the rev sometime drop really bad going up and down. and if i hold the rev on 1000rpm to 2000rpm. the engine doesn't want to stay smooth. then the engine light will start flashing. but if i drive in high rev around 4 to 5k. then the engine lights will goes away.
anyone know why??
anyone know why??
12-16-2007 | 10:15 AM
#34
12-17-2007 | 01:03 AM
#35
yeah i had this happen to me many of times. i have the 04 AT and im on my 3 set of motor mounts, it seems like each year i have to get them replaced. does anyone know of some good motor mounts that will stand up to some power?
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