11.8 sec 0-60!
#26
theres really no excuse for a 12 second 0-60, ive driven a 4 speed AT and it does much better than that
check the reflash, and def take it into a mazda dealer to have them look at it, it can be anything from clogged injectors to a faulty throttle signal. something is def wrong
check the reflash, and def take it into a mazda dealer to have them look at it, it can be anything from clogged injectors to a faulty throttle signal. something is def wrong
#27
torque loading is the only way to launch an automatic. and most PCMs wont let you past 2,500rpm when doing this.
#28
You think it takes about six seconds to reach 5k from a dead stop with the MT? 1 second per 1k? That is painfully slow.
Everyone is so fast to blame as soon as they see AT.
#29
Like ODDDOOD says, make sure you get the MSP-16 flash done.
Then also do the following on launch because I don't think you're launching your automatic properly for a good 0-60.
It's called Torque Loading and it's critical to getting a good launch with an Auto.
1. On the start line use your left foot to hold down the brake.
2. Use your right foot to press the gas pedal. Your car will not move as long as you hold the brake firmly.
3. Using the right foot build the revs to 2500 or more RPMS - do this rather swiftly so you lessen the stress on the transmission. Hold firm on the brakes, don't want to trip the lights with a false start.
4. Once the revs build and the lights on the tree fall pop off the brake and control the thottle for grip and power.
Drag racing cars is a dirty business and hard on parts, but the thrill is in good timeslips. Rental cars are best for Torque Loading experiments! JK
Tell me how it goes this time around.
Then also do the following on launch because I don't think you're launching your automatic properly for a good 0-60.
It's called Torque Loading and it's critical to getting a good launch with an Auto.
1. On the start line use your left foot to hold down the brake.
2. Use your right foot to press the gas pedal. Your car will not move as long as you hold the brake firmly.
3. Using the right foot build the revs to 2500 or more RPMS - do this rather swiftly so you lessen the stress on the transmission. Hold firm on the brakes, don't want to trip the lights with a false start.
4. Once the revs build and the lights on the tree fall pop off the brake and control the thottle for grip and power.
Drag racing cars is a dirty business and hard on parts, but the thrill is in good timeslips. Rental cars are best for Torque Loading experiments! JK
Tell me how it goes this time around.
#30
This begs the simple questions first:
1. How did you launch the car? Just stomped on it from idle or did you brake torque?
2. What rpm was the transmission shifting at? If you were in manual mode, what rpm were you shifting at?
3. Did you pin the throttle all the way down?
1. How did you launch the car? Just stomped on it from idle or did you brake torque?
2. What rpm was the transmission shifting at? If you were in manual mode, what rpm were you shifting at?
3. Did you pin the throttle all the way down?
2.i shifted at redline on the paddle try and i didnt look at the shift on the auto time.
3. throttle was floored the whole way
#31
Did you turn off the DSC/TC? That helps! Try preloading at about 15-1800 rpm's then floring it. Seems to work beter than just holding the peddal to the floor.
#33
#36
I've done bracket racing in my '04 AT, DSC/TC off, brake-launching from 2500 rpm I run low 18's at about 83mph, on a track with proper traction and all that. That would mean my 0-60 time would be about the same, I think.
The difference between the MT and AT goes past the engine... it also has to do with the tranny. 4 speed versus 6 speed, 7500 rpm redline versus 9000 rpm redline. I can hit about 42 mph at 9krpm in a manual, but about 45mph at 7500rpm in an automatic, so when you look at it that way... your engine has to trudge through more mph per 1krpm in the automatic than the manual. The manual is geared a LOT shorter than the automatic, which makes the manual a lot faster, all else equal.
Don't do a tranny swap, you'll screw up what the ECU expects and still wind up with the weaker engine. Sell the car and buy a MT, that's your best option (and cheaper, to boot).
The difference between the MT and AT goes past the engine... it also has to do with the tranny. 4 speed versus 6 speed, 7500 rpm redline versus 9000 rpm redline. I can hit about 42 mph at 9krpm in a manual, but about 45mph at 7500rpm in an automatic, so when you look at it that way... your engine has to trudge through more mph per 1krpm in the automatic than the manual. The manual is geared a LOT shorter than the automatic, which makes the manual a lot faster, all else equal.
Don't do a tranny swap, you'll screw up what the ECU expects and still wind up with the weaker engine. Sell the car and buy a MT, that's your best option (and cheaper, to boot).
#38
#39
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#42
so i went in to mazda and my warranty expires monday! so im bringing it in on monday and theyre going to take a look and do the reflash and what not. after that im going to take it on another run and let everyone know!
#43
What year is the car? Only your bumper to bumper should be expiring soon. You have 6/60k powertrain and an 8/100k engine core warranty. Your problem sounds powertrain related, so it should be all good.
#48
the dude at the dealership said that the warranty was up. i bought the car used, so to be honest i have no clue what the warranty entitles.