Well after owning the car since new in 06' I have put 125K on her and dropped a rotor. She wont start!

I cleaned the MAF sensor, eccentric shaft sensor, new plugs, new wires, coils packs, and i even ran the Mazda Zoom cleaner through this past Sunday. she will only start if i put some oil down the maint tubes on the intake mani... once its running it runs great now but i still have this starting issue. Ow well. at least the car looks good sitting in the garage. It will have to sit until i come up with 3K for a good replacement.

I even tried premixing the gas still nothing.. so i know there is a low comp rotor Damn.... I will have to get the AWD MX3 going until then.

Any thoughts welcome, or anyone looking to get rid of a motor

 

disconnect the coils, remove the leading plugs.
Spin it with the starter for 30 to 45 seconds and listen.
Does the air sound even on each air pulse, or are some pulse sounds weak or missing?

 

Yah defiantly the front rotor sounds weak. and the Leading plug looked like it had not been firing so i changed the plug and tested the coil but it was a no go for start up.

I thought about trying the Marvel magic mystery oil trick or dumping in some motor honey to thicken the oil out. Should i try running a thicker oil?

 

if one of the rotor has low compression, the engine should still start.

you probably have "some other problems" just a thought.

 

I can get it to start eventually, and only when its cold. otherwise when i turn it over i can here it firing and trying to start but it wont start without it sitting for some time first.

-I need to just compression test it. I did a quick search but didn't see anything on compression testing a rotary. can i use a normal compression tester? and would i do it on the Leading/Trailing plug or both?

I went to buy a Chilton's manual for the 8 but all 3 stores i went to didn't carry them.

 

you can compression test with a piston tester. when you do it the tester will jump 3 times (obviously)

the only info missing is the rpm ... you can get it from the OBDII port if you have the right software.

 

I use this to get my starting rpms

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ld8_dCsLISI

 

Yah, Thats what i was told by someone the other day but weren't 100% sure.

I have a Axis port to watch the RPMs. What should everything come out to?
When i crank it over its only at about 500RPM's according to the tachometer in the car when its trying to start. I did just change the batt as i was having issues with it not starting the starter was another issue i thought might be it.

Sorry if i sound dumb but i am a noob when it comes to Rotary's this is my first one and it is a learning experience. I appreciate all the help.

 

Given your mileage don't even waste electrical power lol... you'll end up needing a battery and a new starter.
Just contact Mazmart or some other engine rebuilder and you'll be fine

 

So before I go knees deep into a rebuild should I pull the starter and have it tested? It is the original starter and my motor has been flooded 3 different times in its bast so the starter has gotten a lot of use

 

You said it will turn over and start though right? Just under the perfect conditions? If it was the starter you would have issues starting it any time.

Edit: But hey, if it will make you feel better about dropping the money in the rebuild and you have the time i say go for it man. Piece of mind, right?

 

Yah, I.E. its cold and it takes about 5 seconds or so, or if i pump some oil or 2cycle into the manifold. Actually it will start first crank if i pump oil into the service ports on the mani. Thats why i figured it was too low comp to start under normal conditions. so probably not the starter

 

it will never be 500 rpm, no starter can crank that fast. the tach's first 500 rpm is not accurate (and the last 500 rpm)

you have a 2005 ? early or late model ? cuz it determines if you have updated starter. or just look at the starter's body, it will tell you by its model number

OBD II scanner is probably the next "easiest" way to tell your "real" rpm.

I am getting my compression tester soon (probably 2 more weeks, most 3), it has all readings and rpm. but I don't think you want to go this route (the tester cost a load of $$$), Im getting it because I'm a freak.

*btw, do you like that KnightSports' strut "plate" ? I was told by someone who used to work in knight sports that its not really needed, better spend my money on some other upgrades"

 

Haha, I love it, I had full coil-overs and sways on before i installed it. Defiantly noticed the front end was more rigid than with the OEM brace. worth the money... thats in the eye of the beholder. I am glad I bought it cause i'm the only one in the US with it, and it was my drive to be a little different than everyone else. I did have to mod it to fit though, as it was made for a RH drive car and the firewalls are slightly different.