MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Possibly, though there is the question of whether or not the oil that enters the engine through the metering jets sufficiently wets the critical parts and whether or not engine oil is an adequate lubricant.
I cannot answer those questions with any certainty, so pre-mix is a bit of Pascal's Wager.

I also feel that the injected volume on cars with significant (proper) injection is too little at low-load. I feel that most of the hot-weather failures are actually the result of cumulative low-load operation in high temp with minimal injected oil volume. The over-rich condition in the "CAT-conservation" loading isn't helping, either, but pre-mix does nothing to alleviate that.

Michael

Ah. What you're saying makes sense - as it accounts for the "Placid drivers" having their engines go along with those with slow commutes in hot environments.

In both situations, low oil injection, but high "environmental" load.

Oktobernv

WOW!!

This just gets BETTER AND BETTER!!!

My Rx8 has been in the shop for FIVE days now.

Just got a call from People's MAZDA.

They want ME TO PAY to have a compression check done!?!?!??!

Un ******* real.

I am on the 2nd motor, going on my 3rd.

Car has ALL the symptoms of a failing engine and "DOUG" just told me I have to "pay them to do a compression check because that is not covered under the warranty."


I am speechless.....



I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER MAZDA PRODUCT IN MY LIFE.


?????


Rob in Vegas

Shinka-Dono

Tell them no.

Sorry to hear about all this.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I'm sorry to hear about your difficulties, Rob. Fact is, all car dealerships suck badly in one way or another, regardless of marque. Its not enough to say that they are in it only for the money. There is a deliberate misanthropy that is pat of running a dealership that absolutely requires that they take advantage of as many customers as they can. Its too bad that it builds bad will against the brand as well as the retailer.

I would gladly do the compression check for you were I closer. I won't be back in Vegas for a month or more, so I am of little help to you. A compression check takes about 10 minutes and requires no parts whatsoever.

Oktobernv

Thanks MM.

What is a "fair" price for a compression check at a dealer??

Assuming there is such a thing as "fair" at a dealer.


Rob in Vegas

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

No such thing. They are going to charge you for an hour, so probably $90 to $130.
Just as a point of reference, a local rotary shop would probably do it for $25.

What I don't understand is why they won't do it as part of the warranty service. Unfortunately, Mazda techs are required to follow whatever steps the tech line gives them and nothing more. It would take a tech who is "motivated" to do it on his own - which is something I'd pursue.

ken-x8

Isn't that special.

I had a similar experience, on a much (much!) smaller scale, with Merchant's Tire. Have a battery that's not holding a charge, but still under warranty. They wanted to charge me $22 to test it. After suitable swearing, they saw the point that I came in with what seemed to be a defective product, and checking it out fell on them.

Once they agreed to that, they "discovered" that they were short a mechanic, backed up, and I'd have to wait two hours.

That led me to realize that there was really no reason for me to ever do business with them again. Which I pointed out as I left, headed over to Advance or Wal Mart to see what they had in stock.

Anyway, if the compression test is not covered under warranty, tell them to not bother with it, just go ahead and replace the engine. The details of what they need to do are not of interest to you - their obligation is to fix the car.

Good luck.

Ken

shaunv74

My understanding is that the compression check is part of the recall. I assume the recall has not been done on your new motor. Here's the link to the details...

http://www.finishlineperformance.com/rx8/bulletins.html

Also I am in the process of having my first engine swap done (under warranty). I had the recall and compression check done about a year ago and everything was fine. I brought it in 2 weeks ago for "hard to start when warm." They told me it failed the compression check and had an "internal leak." MNAO told them to just swap the motor. I'm dissappointed because the car has run so well for me and the engine was nice and strong even up to when I brought it in.

You still have your powertrain warranty so none of this should cost you anything. If they persist call MNAO yourself and explain the situation and ask them to straighten out the dealership.

To MM and MAC11's comments I consider myself both a "consumer" and an "enthusiast." For me the bottom line is I wouldn't pay to have someone rebuild my engine while it's under warranty and the dealer will do it for free. Unless I want to build it up beyond the stock setup. I'd love to do more internal work on my own but wouldn't do it the first time without supervision of someone more experienced that had already done this work.

My $0.02

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The recall does not involve a compression check.
Instead, they have a new "tool" that consists of a calibrated MAP sensor and an interface to the BARO sensor.
After they confirm that running around getting lunch in your car doesn't fail it and jacking the MOP to full doesn't fail, they hook up this tube and measure the voltage generated via manifold vacuum versus the local air pressure.
This number is "magical" since they don't tell the techs what it should be. They just call the tech line, give them the PIDs and the "magic" number and they get a up/down on a replacement motor.

Nubo

My opinion exactly. Engine is failing under warranty and they need to rectify. Any research they want or need to do should be on their dime. It's like, "hey, we're going to need to use a wrench to fix your car; that'll be $25". WTF?

shaunv74

Hmm. Interesting. Good to know. Sounds like he doesn't need a compression check then. Just get the magic number and find out what MNAO says...

Tony Orlando

Wow- that really eats. Sorry to hear about the troubles.

I had an 04 GT, and really don't miss doing Mazda's beta testing for them. It's a shame that you're getting treated like you are, but reading these type of threads makes me realize why Mazda lags so far behind the other import brands- service.

I've owned 3 Rotary vehicles and several non-Rotary Mazdas and love the product, but the service has always been *****.

Best of luck to you.

ptenthus

So, from what I'm reading here, high-ambient temps with low loads are rotary killers.

Would that be accurate?

So, obviously ambient temps aren't something we can control - but would running the car harder/rev-ing higher be a possible solution (if somewhat counter-intuitive)?

rotten42

I know exactly how you feel. I really wnated to like this car too but after 2 engines and all the other crap. I can't trust the car.

rotten42

that's easy for you to say. He isn't spreading garbage and there is enough of us around here that have gone through it to justify what we are saying.

rotten42

WE don't have the hot weather here like Vegas but I do attribute my failures due to poor oiling because my car spends a lot of time in ruch hour traffic.

Phil's 8

iTrader: (3)

Not Mazda - Just the dealer - Unfortunately the same owner for both Mazda dealers in town with the same lack of concern or desire to have customer satisfaction. I've been told not to bring my 8 into their shop and if I need a part, drive another car over (by a gentleman who addressed himself at the owner). I was told by Mazda to take mine to another dealer as they can't tell the dealer who to service.

There have been quite a few engine replacements here in Vegas - I agree with MM that it's somehow attributed to oiling along with the heat. I have an 04 that is still on it's original engine and I'm running a s/c - luv the rotary - sorry your having the problem.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (3)

With rx7s/older rotaries this is not really the case...so long as the cooling system can keep temps to a reasonable level there is not so much of an issue as there seems to be with this platform. Not to say that they are ideal, though. I would say that running it harder in the heat is probably the worst thing you could do. Especially given that the idiot gauge in these cars doesnt actually reflect changes in engine temperature.

The best thing you could do would be to run some additional premix in such an environment from day 1 to prevent wear. Even though it is a natural aspirated engine, it might even benefit from a small amount of water injection under meduim to full throttle.

You'd also definitely want to run shorter oil change intervals...if it were me in such an environment, I'd do 1500-2000 miles depending on usage.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Hey New Yorker,

You Got

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

You better watch it RR - I'm agreeing with you way too much these days.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (3)

That often happens when people sit there emotions aside and actually listen to what I have to say.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Well, no. I'd say it happens when you set your emotions aside and stay on message.

Oktobernv

just got the results of my compression test

Mazda Corp paid for the test.


"reading at rotor 1 at 248 rpm I - 7.3 II - 7.3 III - 7.4

rotor 2 at 254 rpm I - 7.4 II - 7.4 III - 7.3"


Are these good? bad? normal? high? low?


Thanks in advance

Rob in Vegas

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Well, they are just slightly on the low side, but far from "failed". 6.9 is minimum and 8.5 is spec.
All the numbers are equal which is the most important thing.
If that test was run correctly, there is nothing seriously wrong with the seals on that motor.