30,000 Mile Service
#1
30,000 Mile Service
So I hit the 30k mark and it's time for my first big service. I went to the dealership today and they quoted me around $700. Here is exactly what is written on the little brochure they gave me.
Lubrication, Oil & Filter Change, Rotate & Balance Tires, Check Brakes Clean & Adjust, Tune Up, Replace Air & Fuel Filters, Spark Plugs, Drain & Refill Cooling System, Replace Brake Fluid, Flush Auto Transmission Fluid, Change Manual Transmission Gear Oil If Equipped, Change Differential Gear Oil
Inspect and adjust engine idle speed as required; Inspect all belts, hoses, fluid levels, lights and lenses, drive axle and steering gear dust boots, exhaust and cooling system, front and rear suspension, tire condition and adjust tire pressures.
I suppose they make it seem like they are doing a lot, but I know i can do most of this stuff at home. I'm not sure if there is one particular thread about this. From what i've read, all I really need at 30k is plugs, coils, (DIY) differential fluid, tranny fluid, and probably cooling flush. (Never done these)
Any pointers would be great. What should I do myself, what should I have the dealership do, what I could possibly have an autoparts store do for 50% cheaper.
In the mean time I will be searching more threads for more information.
Thanks
Lubrication, Oil & Filter Change, Rotate & Balance Tires, Check Brakes Clean & Adjust, Tune Up, Replace Air & Fuel Filters, Spark Plugs, Drain & Refill Cooling System, Replace Brake Fluid, Flush Auto Transmission Fluid, Change Manual Transmission Gear Oil If Equipped, Change Differential Gear Oil
Inspect and adjust engine idle speed as required; Inspect all belts, hoses, fluid levels, lights and lenses, drive axle and steering gear dust boots, exhaust and cooling system, front and rear suspension, tire condition and adjust tire pressures.
I suppose they make it seem like they are doing a lot, but I know i can do most of this stuff at home. I'm not sure if there is one particular thread about this. From what i've read, all I really need at 30k is plugs, coils, (DIY) differential fluid, tranny fluid, and probably cooling flush. (Never done these)
Any pointers would be great. What should I do myself, what should I have the dealership do, what I could possibly have an autoparts store do for 50% cheaper.
In the mean time I will be searching more threads for more information.
Thanks
#2
Now that you created the thread, take a peak below at the "similar thread" list...
And yes, there is pretty much none of it that you have to let the dealer do.
If you have a Series 1, the transmission fluid change is simple: Put the car on jack stands, pop the upper "fill bolt", then the lower drain bolt, let drain into a pan, while waiting, clean the magnetic drain plug from metal shavings. Keep an eye out for chunks, it's a bad sign. When done draining, replace the drain plug, then the fill plug. Go inside the car, remove the shifter boot and shifter, be careful not to drop anything in there like old french fries or dirt, and pour in exactly 2 quarts of your preferred fluid. Eunos or Redline MT90 are the 2 most highly recommended. Royal Purple is heavily cautioned against. Replace the shifter and boot.
Somewhere in there put the car back down.
That's it
The rear diff is more difficult, and you will have to get creative with a hand pump (most auto parts sell them for oil transfer, boat section usually), to pump the fluid into the diff, since you can't gravity fill. Usually getting some silicon tubing that matches the right diameters is the best way.
Radiator flush is not much more than a drain and fill...and redrain and fill as often as you want.
~$250 maybe doing everything yourself.
And yes, there is pretty much none of it that you have to let the dealer do.
If you have a Series 1, the transmission fluid change is simple: Put the car on jack stands, pop the upper "fill bolt", then the lower drain bolt, let drain into a pan, while waiting, clean the magnetic drain plug from metal shavings. Keep an eye out for chunks, it's a bad sign. When done draining, replace the drain plug, then the fill plug. Go inside the car, remove the shifter boot and shifter, be careful not to drop anything in there like old french fries or dirt, and pour in exactly 2 quarts of your preferred fluid. Eunos or Redline MT90 are the 2 most highly recommended. Royal Purple is heavily cautioned against. Replace the shifter and boot.
Somewhere in there put the car back down.
That's it
The rear diff is more difficult, and you will have to get creative with a hand pump (most auto parts sell them for oil transfer, boat section usually), to pump the fluid into the diff, since you can't gravity fill. Usually getting some silicon tubing that matches the right diameters is the best way.
Radiator flush is not much more than a drain and fill...and redrain and fill as often as you want.
~$250 maybe doing everything yourself.
#3
Thanks. I did a little research and it seems that all I need is about $300 and some time.
Edit: Here are the things I will be buying.
Transmission Fluid
Differential Fluid
Brake Fluid (Not sure what brand, DOT3 or 4)
Spark Plugs
Ignition Coils (Not sure where to buy, Mazmart is sold out right now)
Oil Filter
Any better suggestions?
Edit: Here are the things I will be buying.
Transmission Fluid
Differential Fluid
Brake Fluid (Not sure what brand, DOT3 or 4)
Spark Plugs
Ignition Coils (Not sure where to buy, Mazmart is sold out right now)
Oil Filter
Any better suggestions?
Last edited by Lunacy; 07-09-2010 at 10:55 AM.
#6
The 2nd best alternative is from Finishlineperformance.com. They are actually Rosenthal Mazda in northern Virginia, and their prices are usually competitive, though a bit higher than Mazmart.
There is still debate around it, but it seems quite a bit riskier than other options. Quite a few people had syncro failure within 5k to 10k miles after switching to RP transmission fluid, enough that there is the basis to call them linked.
Without proof, feel free to try yourself, but considering Redline and Eunos have perfect reputations and are fantastic fluids, with Redline being about the same price and Eunos being only a bit more, there is no reason to even risk it.
There is still debate around it, but it seems quite a bit riskier than other options. Quite a few people had syncro failure within 5k to 10k miles after switching to RP transmission fluid, enough that there is the basis to call them linked.
Without proof, feel free to try yourself, but considering Redline and Eunos have perfect reputations and are fantastic fluids, with Redline being about the same price and Eunos being only a bit more, there is no reason to even risk it.
#7
Thanks.
Anyone wanna recommend a brake fluid? I read i couldn't blue in Florida. I suppose I could just go to a nearby autozone and pick up anything.
Woo. Mazmart coils are in. And i found $15.00 in my paypal account. Feels like a nice discount.
Anyone wanna recommend a brake fluid? I read i couldn't blue in Florida. I suppose I could just go to a nearby autozone and pick up anything.
Woo. Mazmart coils are in. And i found $15.00 in my paypal account. Feels like a nice discount.
Last edited by Lunacy; 07-10-2010 at 12:36 PM.
#8
The 2nd best alternative is from Finishlineperformance.com. They are actually Rosenthal Mazda in northern Virginia, and their prices are usually competitive, though a bit higher than Mazmart.
There is still debate around it, but it seems quite a bit riskier than other options. Quite a few people had syncro failure within 5k to 10k miles after switching to RP transmission fluid, enough that there is the basis to call them linked.
Without proof, feel free to try yourself, but considering Redline and Eunos have perfect reputations and are fantastic fluids, with Redline being about the same price and Eunos being only a bit more, there is no reason to even risk it.
There is still debate around it, but it seems quite a bit riskier than other options. Quite a few people had syncro failure within 5k to 10k miles after switching to RP transmission fluid, enough that there is the basis to call them linked.
Without proof, feel free to try yourself, but considering Redline and Eunos have perfect reputations and are fantastic fluids, with Redline being about the same price and Eunos being only a bit more, there is no reason to even risk it.
I used to use Redline in my previous Subaru. I just went with RP because it was recommended for the engine oil too.
Lucky me I am only a couple months past the power train warranty too.
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