30K service BS?
#1
30K service BS?
Brought my car (04, manual) to a dealer for emissions recall & 30K service. On the service side, he didn't do much more than motor oil change... I asked him why he didn't change other fluids (xmission, rear diff & brake / clutch) as is clearly stated in the owner's manual (for heavy driving conditions). He told me it's not necessary to change these fluids at that mileage for manual xmission... I wonder if he's right. What pisses me off he charged a sh!tload of money for the 30K 'service' which was not much than casual inspection and oil change.... I wonder if he's full of BS or not.
Thanks!
-Toly.
Thanks!
-Toly.
#6
Yeah - you got jacked.... and whoever told you that doenst need to be working on cars period.
I did my 30K service myself, changed all the fluids, tranny/diff/radiator/oil, and all filters. Much more satisfying and I saved HUNDREDS of dollars.
I did my 30K service myself, changed all the fluids, tranny/diff/radiator/oil, and all filters. Much more satisfying and I saved HUNDREDS of dollars.
#8
Purveyor of fine bass
Originally Posted by Toly
I called Mazda and they said he should do what's in the manual and I should bring the car back to him... But I guess I'm better off doing it myself... Thanks!
#12
Screw gas mileage
By the way...from mazda's website:
30,000 Miles Service
Inspect:Drive Belts, Fuel lines, hoses & connections, Cooling system, Brake line, hoses & connections, Disk brakes, Steering operation & linkages, Front and rear suspension and ball joints, Driveshaft dust boots, Bolts and nut on seats, Exhaust system heat shields
Replace:Engine oil, Engine oil filter
Lubricate:All locks & hinges
30,000 Miles Service
Inspect:Drive Belts, Fuel lines, hoses & connections, Cooling system, Brake line, hoses & connections, Disk brakes, Steering operation & linkages, Front and rear suspension and ball joints, Driveshaft dust boots, Bolts and nut on seats, Exhaust system heat shields
Replace:Engine oil, Engine oil filter
Lubricate:All locks & hinges
#13
more then a Mazda
Join Date: Jan 2005
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![Naughty](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
thechoice is yours and i would have the dealer show you each and everything the good book said is to be done!enjoy!
![Rock](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/rock.gif)
#17
Registered
If you don't mind, how long did this take you?
#19
Registered
Google "brake bleeding" or "bleeding brakes." Turns up a bunch of pages. Some make it sound more complicated than it is. Bleeding is formally when you need to get air out of the system, but the mechanics are the same as for changing. When changing, you just keep going until the old fluid is gone.
Three key things are:
o Check and top off the reservoir often so you don't run it dry and suck air in.
o Be careful to not get brake fluid on the paint.
o Establish a good rhythm of "Up" "Down" signals between you and your helper.
The basics (after the car is jacked, the wheel off, etc) are:
1. Put the hose on the bleeder valve, other end in the jar
2. Open the valve - only part of a turn is needed
3. Say "down"
4. Watch the fluid in the tube, looking for it to become clean instead of dirty
5. When your helper says "it's down", close the valve and say "up"
6. When your helper says "it's up", go back to 2.
Keep at it until the fluid comes out clean. Then go to the next wheel.
Customary order (for left hand drive cars) is RR, LR, RF, LF.
Helper should take a couple of seconds for each up/down stroke.
Further enlightenment should appear later in this thread, as others report their favorite details and kinks.
There are gizmos that speed up the process - one man bleeders, vacuum systems, etc - but IMHO anyone who wants to do this should use the traditional method their first time.
Ken
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