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40 days new (to me) & a million problems!

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Old 01-15-2013, 09:08 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by -mandy-
Part of the reason for holding at 2500 rpms was to clear out fuel but also to leave oil on top for the next start...that have any benefit to it you think?
Oil like everything else is subject to gravity. Leave it off long enough and all the oil is back in the oil pan. On the next start up the pump still has to put oil where it needs to be. Revving the car before shutting it off is not necessary. I don't suppose it will hurt anything though?

On the subject of oil, there is a thread here about premixing your fuel with two cycle oil. It's a loooooong read, but there is some post with good information. You may want to read and decided for yourself if that is something you may want to do or not.
Old 01-15-2013, 09:11 AM
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Oil on the seals and rotors will not drain to the pan, but just the bottom of the housing, but yeah, oil is injected based on load (more load = more oil), and 2,500rpm in neutral is pretty much no load.

If you want to keep the internals lubricated, premixing is the way to go.

The modding thread in my sig has a section on premix that sums up the rather large premix thread that is pretty difficult to sort through for new owners.

Hmm, I probably should copy that section over to the new owner's thread too...
Old 01-15-2013, 09:20 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
Hmm, I probably should copy that section over to the new owner's thread too...
That's a good idea, that is an extremely long read, and while there are several informative posts, most of it is just jibber jabber.
Old 01-15-2013, 09:25 AM
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Done. Premix is also copied to post #6 in the new owner's thread.
Old 01-15-2013, 04:28 PM
  #30  
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+1 with RIWWP, if you are driving the car in low RPMs thinking you are driving it correctly, you are not. You don't have to redline it every time you start in 1st, but try to do it at least a couple times a week. And another +1 to RIWWP, we're not talking about dropping the clutch and burning out, that is very hard on the clutch and you only have so many of those before you need a new clutch. Once the clutch is out just roll on the throttle and have some fun from time to time. If this isn't something you are comfortable, you have bought the wrong car.

Redlining will also help prevent flooding your engine. When carbon builds up in your engine the engine will be susceptible to floods, which is why Mazda changed the spark plugs to hot plugs to help prevent fouling on the plugs from people not driving their car hard enough. I have never had an engine flood, and I have never worried about it, and I don't wait for it to warm up before I shut it down on short/tiny trips.

Good luck!
Old 01-15-2013, 04:33 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by TANKERG
Redlining will also help prevent flooding your engine. When carbon builds up in your engine the engine will be susceptible to floods, which is why Mazda changed the spark plugs to hot plugs to help prevent fouling on the plugs from people not driving their car hard enough. I have never had an engine flood, and I have never worried about it, and I don't wait for it to warm up before I shut it down on short/tiny trips.

Good luck!
Stop the presses!!!!!
Redlining prevents flooding
Carbon build up increases susceptibility to flooding?

Mazda changed the plug design?

Ok .. ok I need some link info on these "facts"

Are you comparing the 13B REW to the Rensis .. is that what's happening?
Old 01-15-2013, 05:17 PM
  #32  
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There are two different types of leading plugs to choose from.

This is from the Mazda manual from http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/


Item

Specification

Type NGK Australian specs. Leading side
RE6A-L*1, RE7A-L,
Trailing side RE9B-T
European (L.H.D. U.K.) specs Leading side RE7A-L*1, RE8A-L
Trailing side RE9B-T


*1 : Hot type plug: Available only for customers who often drive their car at very low speed which causes the plugs to foul easily.

Last edited by TANKERG; 01-15-2013 at 05:19 PM.
Old 01-16-2013, 06:27 AM
  #33  
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^^^ Right ok
Fouling doesn't necessarily mean flooding
But ok it could

(side note ... isn't foxed.ca an awesome site?)

Got anything on Redlining and Carbon build up and those effects on flooding.

I read an article from a race team that recommends that you shouldn't redline the engine and a reduced rpm limit of 8600

I'll try and find it for you ... it was a really great read.

(and we have totally hijacked this thread lol)
Old 01-24-2013, 08:35 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by -mandy-
...Autozone about a week ago. They told me it was a 'cylinder 1 misfire' and that more than likely the spark plugs need replaced.

Yesterday when I left work, every time I turned my brights to dims or dims to brights, the radio would shut off...

Also...not sure if it's normal...but since having the car (I do drive a lot...almost have put 5k miles on it in 40 days) I've had to add a quart of oil twice...normal or not? Also, 2 weeks after getting it, low coolant light came on and added some of that and has been fine since then.
It mostly sounds like the car needs several routine maintenance items handled. Plugs and coils are very important to keep in good shape, or the cat and engine can be damaged.

The radio and dash light issue sounds like a dying battery. I had a similar experience.

1 at of oil usage every 3k miles is reasonable.

Good luck, and don't let some sour apples get you down.


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Old 01-24-2013, 08:47 PM
  #35  
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1 quart per 3k miles... damn auto correction


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Old 01-24-2013, 09:49 PM
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Actually 1 quart every 3,000 miles is far far far too low usage. 1 quart every 1,500 is what normal usage is for daily casual driving with everything functioning normally. If someone has 1 every 3,000, I'd assume they had half their injectors clogged.
Old 01-24-2013, 11:47 PM
  #37  
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Depends on what "Normal" usage is... The OMP is load/rpm based, if someone keep the RPM's low and only sees stop and go traffic 1 quart in 3000 miles can be expected.
Old 01-30-2013, 07:28 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by kevinande
If you like the car then by all means keep it. Shutting your car off while holding the RPM's at 2500 is not necessary...at all. If your ignition system is healthy you will have no problem restarting the car. A good rule of thumb is to simply let it get to operating temperature before you shut it off. If you just need to move it out of the driveway for example let it run for about 5 minutes before you shut it down. Again though if your ignition system is healthy (plugs/wires/coils) this will not even be a problem. I change mine annually regardless of mileage and have never once flooded my car ever. If you don't have time to do the maintenance put it in the shop and have it done. I can not stress to you enough of how small problems snowball into large expensive ones if not addressed.

As far as the internet pissing contest goes, let it go. There are those that have their opinions that are not very nice, and so be it. There is nothing to be gained by going back and fourth on here to see who gets the last word. It's an internet forum and people tend to be more rude and display less respect than they would if they were face to face with someone. Get the items you need to address your cars issues and enjoy your car.

In addition there is no conclusive evidence that redlining your car will prolong engine life. Although there is plenty of people who believe this is the case. You can red line the car without acting a complete fool, burning rubber from your tires and doing donuts. Rapid acceleration while entering highways is one such example just let it rev for a few seconds if you choose to do so. The only thing I can say for sure is that it will not damage the car, providing everything else is in good working order. Now go have fun!

Edited to add: "what RIWWP said!"
I agree with what you said at first. I keep my ignition system in good order, I'm not scared of flooding my car because I know it's not possible. Good plugs,wires and coils along with the latest flash = nearly flood proof.

I "kind of" agree with what you say about redlining. You absolutely do not need to redline it daily, maybe once a week at most. However it IS needed if for no other reason than to blow carbon off your spark plugs, though I do believe it helps keep it clean. I can tell a difference in my car's power curve after I redline it. It's a small difference but it's there. My method is when I'm on the interstate and no traffic is around I drop down to about 40mph, drop it into 2nd and red line it, back off do it again and then I'm good for while. If you know your car, you know when it's needed again. The renesis seems much more sensitive to it than previous rotaries but with it's aggressive tune from the factory that makes sense.
Old 01-30-2013, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by supergoat
I "kind of" agree with what you say about redlining. You absolutely do not need to redline it daily, maybe once a week at most. However it IS needed if for no other reason than to blow carbon off your spark plugs, though I do believe it helps keep it clean.
It's also needed to excercise the SSV and APV valves in the intake tract. Never redline with a cold engine - that will do more harm than good.

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