5W30 Oil Don't Cut it, Engine Bearing Pics 58K S1 RX-8 from England.
#51
20,000 KMS (12, 000 miles) !!!!, are you sure Mazda does not recommend an oil change at 10K (6K Miles) ??.
Australia used to be 15,000 KMS (9km) with an Intermediate at 7,500 KMS.
Now all servicing is every 10,000 KMS (6,000 miles).
I can't confirm this guys (UK) Servicing History, but 12,000 miles is way to far to go before an oil change...that is just ridiculous.
Australia used to be 15,000 KMS (9km) with an Intermediate at 7,500 KMS.
Now all servicing is every 10,000 KMS (6,000 miles).
I can't confirm this guys (UK) Servicing History, but 12,000 miles is way to far to go before an oil change...that is just ridiculous.
#53
I personally suspect high revving on a cold engine to be an issue. The wear all seems to be on one side of each bearing which I suspect to be the bottom. If it were high rpm wear, we'd see it all the way around.
We can't draw any definitive conclusions about the oil iteself being an issue whether it's with it's weight or blend based purely on the pictures shown.
We can't draw any definitive conclusions about the oil iteself being an issue whether it's with it's weight or blend based purely on the pictures shown.
#54
I'm thankful for the variable redline in my 09. It's not uncommon for me to forget that the car is still not up to temperature before I get into it (it's hard to resist driving this car), and the car cut's off the fun at 5,000 or 7,000 RPM (depending on how long it's had to warm up). When it does, I always say a silent prayer of thanks to the rotary gods for the variable redline.
To protect the engine, when the
engine coolant temperature is low,
the engine does not run at high
speeds. The fuel supply will be cut
at an rpm lower than the red zone.
engine coolant temperature is low,
the engine does not run at high
speeds. The fuel supply will be cut
at an rpm lower than the red zone.
#55
First stage goes out at 42c, second at 60c or 70c for I think, would have to look it up to be certain.
I am not sure about the S1 RX-8's, perhaps it means fuel cut out at the (your) red-line which I think is 8750???.
But, I think I recall someone saying the ECU will still cut fuel on a stone cold motor at or around 6000 RPM.
Would be interesting to know Nubo, you say yours has never been hesitant to peak out on a cold one.
#56
#57
#58
Why would you drive your car hard at any speed when its not warmed up. Just because the PCM doesn't let it rev to 8k doesn't mean damage is not being done at 5k. The car always needs to be warmed up before you get on it. Always.
#59
While it is a problem assiduously avoided, there have been times when it was necessary.
#60
I talked with a local Mazda guru (independent shop) who's a fellow rotor head.
His feedback mirrors that of many on this board:
- Premix. Does not hurt anything and is definitely a benefit. Idemitsu FTMFW!
- 5w20 is way too thin. In Georgia, he runs 20w50 year round, though 10w40 is great for most folks.
- Let the engine warm up and go easy on it for the first couple miles.
I have been doing this the last 3000 miles and notice a definite improvement in engine performance and mileage is holding steady at 18.5mpg.
His feedback mirrors that of many on this board:
- Premix. Does not hurt anything and is definitely a benefit. Idemitsu FTMFW!
- 5w20 is way too thin. In Georgia, he runs 20w50 year round, though 10w40 is great for most folks.
- Let the engine warm up and go easy on it for the first couple miles.
I have been doing this the last 3000 miles and notice a definite improvement in engine performance and mileage is holding steady at 18.5mpg.
#61
the point of lubrication is to add a "layer" of oil between the housing and apex. it also prevents carbon from sticking.
the only problem with Idemitsu Premix is that its not free
- 5w20 is way too thin. In Georgia, he runs 20w50 year round, though 10w40 is great for most folks.
- Let the engine warm up and go easy on it for the first couple miles.
So this is not just a problem with Rotary. Its everywhere.
I have been doing this the last 3000 miles and notice a definite improvement in engine performance and mileage is holding steady at 18.5mpg.
#62
i think you can set the cold redline with the cobb, i didn't even know it existed until i read the manual and was looking at it in the cobb. by the time i start the car get out of the parking lot and begin to pull in the highway my engine is usaly close to warmed up
#65
And that's true of any car, not just rotaries. I think the only reason I get "caught" in my RX-8 is because that 5,000 RPM limiter when the car is totally cold (I always wait the 15 seconds after starting it cold, like the manual states to do) is so ridiculously easy to hit. None of my other cars have ever revved so smoothly and easily.
#67
Very True about the Coolant and Oil, however, I will always wait until the first LED Red band goes off at 40c, then drive off slowly and keep at about 2500 RPM until I reach major road, but still keep under 3000 until fully warm.
#69
wow,
great thread to come back to..
notes.
the ecu will keep stupid away.. means you cant drive the motor to hard with the motor cold.. simple.
i cant say for sure, but i doubt mm cobb tuning touches that.. first, why would it? and second, why would he..
as to the bearing wear.. well that is bad..
as to led temps, the ecu does not see the leds. it is a visual clue.. i have to look for them next time i am in one of those hi brow 09s!!
beers
great thread to come back to..
notes.
the ecu will keep stupid away.. means you cant drive the motor to hard with the motor cold.. simple.
i cant say for sure, but i doubt mm cobb tuning touches that.. first, why would it? and second, why would he..
as to the bearing wear.. well that is bad..
as to led temps, the ecu does not see the leds. it is a visual clue.. i have to look for them next time i am in one of those hi brow 09s!!
beers
#71
When it comes to normal users and service intervals and driving hard when cold I wouldn't trust them further than I could throw them. I think they take too much time between oil changes and probably don't wait until the car is warm before they push it. Or I know many do. Which is why I was skeptical of buying an RX-8 with much mileage. Mine is driven many short trips so there's no way I'm going over 5000km intervals. I also have the AP with extra oil map and such.
Personally I don't believe in premixing, as I'm not sure the proven positive effects is enough to offset the unknown possible negatives.
Personally I don't believe in premixing, as I'm not sure the proven positive effects is enough to offset the unknown possible negatives.
#72
When it comes to normal users and service intervals and driving hard when cold I wouldn't trust them further than I could throw them. I think they take too much time between oil changes and probably don't wait until the car is warm before they push it. Or I know many do. Which is why I was skeptical of buying an RX-8 with much mileage. Mine is driven many short trips so there's no way I'm going over 5000km intervals. I also have the AP with extra oil map and such.
Personally I don't believe in premixing, as I'm not sure the proven positive effects is enough to offset the unknown possible negatives.
Personally I don't believe in premixing, as I'm not sure the proven positive effects is enough to offset the unknown possible negatives.
There is no negative to premix except that its not free.
Use it and your engine will rev happier.
Its that simple.
#73
#75
This is from an RX-8 owner in the UK who has done 58,000 Miles, he suffered an Engine Failure and decided to pull RENNY apart,
what has been revealed are the usual Stationary Gear Bearing wear, badly worn Apex Seals which damages Rotor Housings
(look at the middle scour marks from no oil). Spark Plug hole cracking.
In the interest of not "upsetting" our touchy UK friends I won't include the link.
I have included some of the pics he posted and all his comments.
Interestingly he used only Fuchs XTR 5W-30 engine oil (which would be a semi-synthetic).
what has been revealed are the usual Stationary Gear Bearing wear, badly worn Apex Seals which damages Rotor Housings
(look at the middle scour marks from no oil). Spark Plug hole cracking.
In the interest of not "upsetting" our touchy UK friends I won't include the link.
I have included some of the pics he posted and all his comments.
Interestingly he used only Fuchs XTR 5W-30 engine oil (which would be a semi-synthetic).
Since the last flash the number of reports of new engines has gone down significantly for those model years and 07 and 08 model year engine replacements are very rare. 09 mazda changed the delivery system.
I would be much more interested in seeing an 07 model year that lived just off 5w20 at good (ie 3k) oil change intervals torn open. Until then premix is a time tested helper for the engines.