5W30 Oil Don't Cut it, Engine Bearing Pics 58K S1 RX-8 from England.
01-14-2010, 02:49 PM
#776
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I mix MMO with my Idemitsu. I believe that it works somewhat similar to water - it's mineral oil w/ small amounts of naptha and benzene, so I think the mineral oil is vaporizing, thus cleaning various parts of the engine in the same way as a steam clean, but safer for the cat. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
01-15-2010, 11:19 PM
#777
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I mix MMO with my Idemitsu. I believe that it works somewhat similar to water - it's mineral oil w/ small amounts of naptha and benzene, so I think the mineral oil is vaporizing, thus cleaning various parts of the engine in the same way as a steam clean, but safer for the cat. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
01-16-2010, 03:32 AM
#778
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http://www.theonion.com/content/news...d_for_thinking
03-07-2010, 05:41 PM
#780
Made the switch
Bought two gallons of Rotella 15w40 today.
Liked the idea of running synthetic, but I like the idea of more frequent oil changes (read: cleaner oil in the combustion chamber) better. So synthetic just wasn't cost effective.
Thought about going with Valvoline VR1 racing oil, but Valvoline only offers 10W30 & 20W50 for that oil. My car will see heavier duty this year while autocrossing since I picked up two co-drivers, and that means alot more runs at twice the frequency, so I expect the oil to get plenty hot. So, I wanted more than 10W30. But still am concerned about getting 20W50 hot enough before that first run, so went 15W40. Will be premixing with Redline Racing 2-Cycle oil.
It sure was nice to pay $13.50 a gallon, instead of $10 a quart...
Liked the idea of running synthetic, but I like the idea of more frequent oil changes (read: cleaner oil in the combustion chamber) better. So synthetic just wasn't cost effective.
Thought about going with Valvoline VR1 racing oil, but Valvoline only offers 10W30 & 20W50 for that oil. My car will see heavier duty this year while autocrossing since I picked up two co-drivers, and that means alot more runs at twice the frequency, so I expect the oil to get plenty hot. So, I wanted more than 10W30. But still am concerned about getting 20W50 hot enough before that first run, so went 15W40. Will be premixing with Redline Racing 2-Cycle oil.
It sure was nice to pay $13.50 a gallon, instead of $10 a quart...
03-08-2010, 01:53 AM
#781
Bought two gallons of Rotella 15w40 today.
Liked the idea of running synthetic, but I like the idea of more frequent oil changes (read: cleaner oil in the combustion chamber) better. So synthetic just wasn't cost effective.
Thought about going with Valvoline VR1 racing oil, but Valvoline only offers 10W30 & 20W50 for that oil. My car will see heavier duty this year while autocrossing since I picked up two co-drivers, and that means alot more runs at twice the frequency, so I expect the oil to get plenty hot. So, I wanted more than 10W30. But still am concerned about getting 20W50 hot enough before that first run, so went 15W40. Will be premixing with Redline Racing 2-Cycle oil.
It sure was nice to pay $13.50 a gallon, instead of $10 a quart...
Liked the idea of running synthetic, but I like the idea of more frequent oil changes (read: cleaner oil in the combustion chamber) better. So synthetic just wasn't cost effective.
Thought about going with Valvoline VR1 racing oil, but Valvoline only offers 10W30 & 20W50 for that oil. My car will see heavier duty this year while autocrossing since I picked up two co-drivers, and that means alot more runs at twice the frequency, so I expect the oil to get plenty hot. So, I wanted more than 10W30. But still am concerned about getting 20W50 hot enough before that first run, so went 15W40. Will be premixing with Redline Racing 2-Cycle oil.
It sure was nice to pay $13.50 a gallon, instead of $10 a quart...
i did it before my last track event. thank you denny!
you know what i noticed?
not a damn thing. worked just like every other oil i have put in!
beers
03-08-2010, 09:16 AM
#782
You mean your car doesn't start to beep when you put it in reverse after putting diesel oil in the crankcase?
[edit] I was also thinking that Rotella T6 5W40 might be a better fit for our car. Lower cold viscosity, which is important for those of us that don't have a long commute, and, according to Shell, better shear stability than the T3 15W40, which seems like a good idea since we send the oil through the gearset.
It's more expensive than the 15W40, but still much cheaper than RP/Redline.
[edit] I was also thinking that Rotella T6 5W40 might be a better fit for our car. Lower cold viscosity, which is important for those of us that don't have a long commute, and, according to Shell, better shear stability than the T3 15W40, which seems like a good idea since we send the oil through the gearset.
It's more expensive than the 15W40, but still much cheaper than RP/Redline.
Last edited by GeorgeH; 03-08-2010 at 09:29 AM.
03-08-2010, 07:06 PM
#785
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03-09-2010, 02:01 PM
#788
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I just changed the oil in my RX-7 back to 20W50 after running 5W20 and then 5W30 for the last several months. I drive mostly freeway and my mileage is consistent. With the 20W50, mileage has gone down by a little bit more than 1 mpg. I am of the opinion that in light driving situations, a thinner oil is fine. For heavier use such as track events, a thicker one should be used. There is no one perfect oil for all driving conditions.
03-09-2010, 02:13 PM
#789
I just changed the oil in my RX-7 back to 20W50 after running 5W20 and then 5W30 for the last several months. I drive mostly freeway and my mileage is consistent. With the 20W50, mileage has gone down by a little bit more than 1 mpg. I am of the opinion that in light driving situations, a thinner oil is fine. For heavier use such as track events, a thicker one should be used. There is no one perfect oil for all driving conditions.
Pay me now or pay me later .....
03-10-2010, 05:07 AM
#791
Ayrton Senna Forever
Would you give us your thoughts on it in the near future?
03-10-2010, 09:19 AM
#792
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I spoke too soon when I said my mileage went down with 20W50. That wasn't comparing apples to apples as that tank of gas had a full bottle of Sea Foam cleaner in it. I filled up yesterday and mileage was exactly the same as it was when I was on the other oils. Basically I am getting the same mileage with 5W20 as I am with 20W50. If there isn't a downside to the thicker oil and only benefits, there's no reason for me not to use it. This is on my RX-7 though.
Incidentally, in my owners manual it gives the recommended oil weights based on ambient temperatures. So does yours. However mine states that a 30W oil (5W30, 10W30 SAE 30, etc) should only be used in climates UP TO 80*F. Above that it states a 40 or 50 weight oil. For the 20W50 row, it shows a usable ambient temperature range off the top end of the chart but down to 20*F. Being in Houston, that's a rare occurence. With no apparent difference in mileage, I'm probably just going to stick with the 20W50. The other oils were really an experiment and I'm not afraid to use my own car.
Incidentally, in my owners manual it gives the recommended oil weights based on ambient temperatures. So does yours. However mine states that a 30W oil (5W30, 10W30 SAE 30, etc) should only be used in climates UP TO 80*F. Above that it states a 40 or 50 weight oil. For the 20W50 row, it shows a usable ambient temperature range off the top end of the chart but down to 20*F. Being in Houston, that's a rare occurence. With no apparent difference in mileage, I'm probably just going to stick with the 20W50. The other oils were really an experiment and I'm not afraid to use my own car.
03-10-2010, 09:28 AM
#793
Registered
RG, I always wanted to ask you what is your opinion on the S1 Renesis very low maximum oil pressure, and pressure-to-rpm datas? As we know, these are the lowest numbers in between the Mazda rotaries. There are a high performance oil pump (like in the older 13B's) with a too restrictive oil cooling system, and low pressure numbered regulators. Why?
Would you give us your thoughts on it in the near future?
Would you give us your thoughts on it in the near future?
I personally don't think the oil pressure was really an issue in the S1's. It could have been but I think that engine's main problems stemmed from the lack of an oil metering jet in the center of the housings. You actually don't need as much pressure as you think. You need flow. Then again the fact that the Renesis makes more power than the n/a 13B's did yet uses the same oil metering pump is a bit suspect. The TII pumps are my favorites and those engines only made anywhere from 182-200 hp stock with no point in shifting above about 6500 rpm or so. A Renesis at 8500 rpm has much greater oil requirements than a 13B at 6500 rpm. Even one that is making more power. It could be a factor. I still think the main issue is the jet locations though.
03-10-2010, 09:36 AM
#794
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What are your thoughts on the SOHN RG? Do you think the reduced carbon from clean 2 stroke being injected will increase the longevity of the engine significantly?
I also premix the fuel but I'm not so sure that is really going to help to overcome the lack of the 3rd injector since some who premixed from day one still had their engines fail.
I also premix the fuel but I'm not so sure that is really going to help to overcome the lack of the 3rd injector since some who premixed from day one still had their engines fail.
03-10-2010, 09:39 AM
#795
^I was thinking the same thing to ask. In the premix thread was it you 9k that posted the pics showing the excessive carb build up on the rotors that led to the failure of the engine? That made me think without a doubt that using clean, proper 2-stroke oil had to fix the carb issue.
03-10-2010, 09:44 AM
#796
SARX Legend
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I may have posted the pics but there have been many and Mazmart has been excellent at documenting and showing us a few engines they rebuilt. Carbon is definitely the major concern.
03-10-2010, 09:48 AM
#797
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I have the Sohn piece for my car. I just haven't gotten around to installing it. I had it on a previous RX-7. My car has 4 oil metering jets. 2 of them are on the rotor housings, 1 each, and dead center where they should be. The other 2 are on the intake manifold. 1 each in the primary ports before the fuel injectors. For me oil gets mixed with the incoming air fuel mixture.
Keep in mind that most of the carbon inside the engine does NOT come from an oil whether metered or premixed. It comes from gasoline. That is the dirtiest thing we put in our engines. I keep carbon down by steam cleaning the engine, which probably shouldn't be done on an RX-8 for various reasons that I won't get into on this thread, and I be sure to redline it often. Even short bursts in 2nd gear does wonders.
Keep in mind that most of the carbon inside the engine does NOT come from an oil whether metered or premixed. It comes from gasoline. That is the dirtiest thing we put in our engines. I keep carbon down by steam cleaning the engine, which probably shouldn't be done on an RX-8 for various reasons that I won't get into on this thread, and I be sure to redline it often. Even short bursts in 2nd gear does wonders.
03-10-2010, 04:46 PM
#798
is adjusting valve lash
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I just changed the oil in my RX-7 back to 20W50 after running 5W20 and then 5W30 for the last several months. I drive mostly freeway and my mileage is consistent. With the 20W50, mileage has gone down by a little bit more than 1 mpg. I am of the opinion that in light driving situations, a thinner oil is fine. For heavier use such as track events, a thicker one should be used. There is no one perfect oil for all driving conditions.
its also reasonably cold in so-cal at this moment. and... i'm on oem 5w20 oil!
the sad thing is, my oil temps only barely starts to reach warm on my drives.
i'm gonna stick with lighter oils on anything under 70 degrees to also get better shifting feel in the morning.
i don't think i will be running/topping off with 10w30 or 10w40 until dead of summer again or where temps are 80+ consistently. just too friggin cold to benefit from any higher oil weights...
03-13-2010, 09:46 AM
#799
Registered
Here's an interesting result. I've filled up again and now my mileage is slightly above average. This is on the 20W50. It's not much higher btw. The car typically gets 21-22 but typically favoring 21 and now it was a bit higher than 22.25 mpg. Again not much but I've never gotten that much before in this car. We'll see how it keeps turning out.
