The only thing i can remember i did before this lights went on is that:

1. I change the third break light.
2. I removed and replaced the font passenger wheel.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXlqESfynYg


After the lights went on, i undo the process but the lights wont go off.
I did a couple of test drive but it seems that the car is working fine.

How can it be possibly affected by the things ive done? (sorry noob...)



Regards,
Chris

 

When I got my new clutch installed my dsc light & traction control system light was on for about 25 miles - 30, which it eventually went off. If I was you just drive it around for a few days and see if the light goes off. I'm not 100% sure on this, I'm just telling you from my own personal experiences.

 

I think the process is, with the ignition on but not started, turn the wheel to the full left until it stops and then back full right until it stops. Then turn the ignition off. Then to on and see if the light is off.

 

OK,

thank you for the inputs... i will try that.

 

I tried it today, it didn't work...

I will wait until 25K-30K miles then... i hope it will go off...

any other ideas?

Regards,
Chris

 

^ he cited 25 - 30 miles to allow time for the system to potentially recycle (not to wait until you hit 25k - 30k miles).

"If the ABS warning light stays on while
you're driving, the ABS control unit has
detected a system malfunction. If this
occurs, your brakes will function normally
as if the vehicle had no ABS.
Should this happen, consult an Authorized
Mazda Dealer as soon as possible."

-Owner's Manual

 

i get the same lights but only after about five miles down the road sometimes its pretty instant or takes a little while. if i push the dsc off none of the lights come on. I have checked all fluid levels and connections and nothing looks wrong. this did happen after i put larger tires on the rear for a drag day. sorry for steeling your thread but i have been searching and cannot come up with any good solution.

 

i just got my cobb AP,

this is what i got:




i tried to reset it, but still the light is on..
i already research about the codes, nothing here..

 

anyone please?
my last resort will be going to the dealership...

 

The P0000 code seems to be a communications error code.


A dealer is probably your only reasonable shot at this.

 

Going through the same problem with my wife's Toyota. ABS light would come on intermittently, then after months of doing that it came on permanently. Eventually took it to a dealer, where for $117 they diagnosed it as a wheel speed sensor. Quoted $600 to fix it. I ordered a new sensor ($76) a couple of days ago, and will replace it next weekend. IMHO, the diagnostic fee was worth spending to know exactly what was wrong, and which sensor.

In researching this, I learned that a common problem with ABS sensors is they get damaged by the hammering that goes on when Bubba replaces CV joints or boots. We had boots replaced at Midas not long before the symptoms started. Hard to believe that R&R'ing a wheel could cause enough trauma, but anything is possible.

I agree with RIWWP that you need to go to a dealer for a proper diagnosis.

Ken

 

See this thread!

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/have-abs-dcs-tcs-issues-lights-staying-202843/

Let me know if it helps and what it was as I would like to put these in order of most likely possibilities when we get enough of them.


So................why did you replace the third brake light bulb? Was it to put in an LED(which we know will cause issues in that position, unless you add resistor). I know you went backwards(which you should have done), but are you sure the bulb you put back in there for at least the test was a good one and not shorted out? Look at ALL your brake light posistions and make sure none are shorted out.

 

I have the same thing going on right now, Mazurfer was kind enough to send me a checklist of things that trigger it, I have yet to fix it however. I was going to paste the information here but it seems like Mazurfer already created a thread

Ill keep everyone posted on my issue, OP do the same for yours...

 

^............I figured what the hell. If I'm gonna type all that, might as well make it a thread where I can just point people to! Honestly, I hope I never see it, but I did once when I put an LED in that third position without accounting for the difference in current draw!

 

Do you know if taillights will affect this? Ive had tailights go out before and never saw a light. However, my drivers side tailight is noticably dimmer than the passenger side taillight, looks like its almost off.

Any connection you think

 

I think this is the culprit... Yes i changed it with LED.
I will check this again and post the result later this afternoon...


Thanks for your help.

 

for the mean time, does the required resistor for this LED third break light is the same as the one for the LED Signal Light Load Resistor Fix ?

 

To be honest, I cannot remember.
I'll have to do an advanced search and you should do the same.
I'll post back in my thread if I find out what value will work.

Dave

 

got it:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-l-e-d-3rd-brake-light-resistor-175210/

 

Ya know, anything is possible. You running normal bulbs in there?
I would yank the bulb for a short time and see if the light goes off. It could be that simple.
Have you had major condensation in that tail light? You might want to check it's not corrosion in the socket. Keep in mind that if you do yank the bulb, you may have to do the reset in order to tell. (See my thread linked above).


Off subject(sort of), but to Phey_05...........I'm running 18 VLED's in both the brake lights and back-up lights with no issues, but that 3rd brake light will kill you if you don't do anything about it!

 

^....bingo!
Think there is a better DIY on it, but that should work!

 

^................some people need the resistor and some don't. Seems to be rather finicky!

 

Yes, you're right.
I don't have soldering iron at the moment, so i will put back the old 3rd break light as temporary solution then see how it goes, and once i have the soldering iron and the resistor ill try the LED 3rd break light again...

 

confirmed...

its the LED, so now i put back the old bulb and all the warnings are gone.

 

for the 2 watt 150 Ohm resistor though,

i'm assuming it doesn't matter if it is film resistor, metal oxide power resistors, carbon film resistor or wire wound resistor as long at it has 2 watt 150 Ohm, right?